Thomba48
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Posts posted by Thomba48
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I can only second Bobs recommendation. Fact is I was reasonably lucky once and failed the second time around completely. The set I originally purchased for my P15 Business Coupe actually turned out reasonably right. With very, very minor tweaking demands. The second time round I purchased from the same supplier a set for my 1949 Plymouth convertible. I did actually talk to them in person and was promised a perfect fit. When the carpet arrived it was everything but a fit at all. Too wide, too short, just strange. So plan B, which should have been my plan A: I purchased proper carpert material and padding (readily available on many online sites) and went to a trimmer. In the end I paid slightly more than the set price (roughly 30%), but got a fit that I needed and additional tweaks here and there.
Saying that, if you are lucky and the carpet fits a set can be a very good solution. But the fit is not always guaranteed. Thom
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I have contacted butchcoolstuffs and I can second that his kit only works with an automatic transmission. The only solution he mentioned was the one already being indicated by Bobb. For that their master cylinder could be bought. But when it comes down to it theirs is just a standard MC1321H, which you can purchase almost anywhere.
A shame
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10 hours ago, 61spit said:
That looks like it would be great but the description of it says it is for automatic transmissions only and requires offset trans cross member for Booster clearance. Can it be adapted to standard transmission applications? Has anyone done it?
That would interest me as well.
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Hi,
I am still running drum brakes (with the usual underfloor master cylinder set-up). And they actually do work fine. So why changing it? But just having a single brake line is something I want to address.
I have surveyed this site and online and yet have not come across a dual master cylinder that would work for my purpose. ECI I have spoken with, but their system only works with a disc brake set-up.
What I am looking for is a kit, not a work-around solution ideally, as I am not the biggest technical genius :-)?
Any solutions are kindly appreciated.
Thom
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Thanks
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12 hours ago, _shel_ny said:
Typical slotted steering wheel nut that I have measures 9.32mm thick. Slots cut down to a thickness of 4.94mm
Thanks. That is exactly the one in place in my car. But the thread does not allow this nut to sit completely flush on top of the steering column. I will look into that a bit further.
EDITED by mod: parts requests not allowed on the open forum.
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Hi. I am almost feared that question to come up as it might again indicate my total knowledge lack of everything ?
Fact is, the nut which by the way was broken from the beginning, has very little thread to work with. Sitting tight it actually does sit slightly on top the steering column itself. Well, whilst saying that my brain begins to work and I am beginning to wonder if that is maybe linked to the wrong nut? LOL. Certainly something I need to investigate a bit further.
Thom
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Sorry for not having responded earlier.
Thanks to your kind and rather explanatory support the wheel finally came off. Just before Christmas. It is now undergoing "surgery" and will hopefully be properly alive and kicking in a couple of weeks.
What I did notice, however, the wheel or at least a wheel was taken off before. The steering wheel column was significantly shortened during that process to such a level that I might have to think about a solution for security reasons.
thanks again
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Ups. No. ?? But amazon. That will do. Thanks by the way for the on going interaction. Unfortunately with work and family requirements in place it is often rather difficult to sneak out for a minute or two to work on the car ???
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Thanks. I did not get round to it tonight. Shall look at it over the weekend. But generally speaking my set does not look any different.
The nut approach I have not tried out yet. But despite this set up I have failed ? I am unfortunately a third try lucky man ??
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4 minutes ago, desoto1939 said:
From looking at your last picture of the wheel puller it looks as if the center threaded bolt is hitting the outer edge of the center section of the steering wheel and the smaller threaded bolt is hitting some where inside the steering wheel hub. If this is the case when you try to pul lthe wheel the main center bolt is pushing the wheel down on the main shaft so you are working against the puller.
The three slots in the puller need to alighn up and the smaller threaded bolt needs to thread into the hub of the wheel and the big enter bolt is then pushing against the threaded section of the steering column so that as you crank down on the big bolt it is then pushing the steering wheel off the serrated end of the steering column.
Als did you run a stiff wire up thru the steering column from the bottom of the steering box. You will need to do this inorder to get the horn wire back down the steering shaft and to come out the end of the steeringbox. In the internal part of the steering box there is a small tube that the wire needs to pass thru so it then can come out the end of the steering box. The small internal tube prevents the oil or grease from coming out the end of the steering box.to
Inside the center hub there should be three threaded holes to thread a bolt into and thru the main puller for each slot in the puller and then the main threaded bolt pushes the wheel off the shaft. remove the puller and look closer to see if this your setup. If not then you might have to use a gear puller under the base of the hub of the steering wheel with a bar over the top of the wheel and just go very slowing with a minimal amout of tighten the main botl so as not to damage the steering whel hub.
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com
4 minutes ago, desoto1939 said:From looking at your last picture of the wheel puller it looks as if the center threaded bolt is hitting the outer edge of the center section of the steering wheel and the smaller threaded bolt is hitting some where inside the steering wheel hub. If this is the case when you try to pul lthe wheel the main center bolt is pushing the wheel down on the main shaft so you are working against the puller.
The three slots in the puller need to alighn up and the smaller threaded bolt needs to thread into the hub of the wheel and the big enter bolt is then pushing against the threaded section of the steering column so that as you crank down on the big bolt it is then pushing the steering wheel off the serrated end of the steering column.
Als did you run a stiff wire up thru the steering column from the bottom of the steering box. You will need to do this inorder to get the horn wire back down the steering shaft and to come out the end of the steeringbox. In the internal part of the steering box there is a small tube that the wire needs to pass thru so it then can come out the end of the steering box. The small internal tube prevents the oil or grease from coming out the end of the steering box.to
Inside the center hub there should be three threaded holes to thread a bolt into and thru the main puller for each slot in the puller and then the main threaded bolt pushes the wheel off the shaft. remove the puller and look closer to see if this your setup. If not then you might have to use a gear puller under the base of the hub of the steering wheel with a bar over the top of the wheel and just go very slowing with a minimal amout of tighten the main botl so as not to damage the steering whel hub.
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com
Awfully kind of you for providing so much insights. I shall keep this in mind for my hopefully final push. ?
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Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks
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Well. I certainly thought so. But I will go back to it again tomorrow. Thanks. And I certainly love the Arnold phrase. Lol
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Thannnnnkkkkkkkk youuuuuuuu?
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2 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:
I do not recommend tapping on the shaft with a hammer and pulling the wheel by hand while doing so....you may get lucky, you may end up needing a new assembly...the puller is designed to prevent damage when utilized properly. Back the nut off till flush with t he steering column...this will protect the threads and at the same time when it pops loose will prevent the wheel from just going all over the place. Note the position of the wheel and the fact it is master keyed for going back on....we had on member who failed at his attempt to remove the wheel without the proper tool....luckily he refinished it in place...as to damage to threads and column...no report on that.
2 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:I do not recommend tapping on the shaft with a hammer and pulling the wheel by hand while doing so....you may get lucky, you may end up needing a new assembly...the puller is designed to prevent damage when utilized properly. Back the nut off till flush with t he steering column...this will protect the threads and at the same time when it pops loose will prevent the wheel from just going all over the place. Note the position of the wheel and the fact it is master keyed for going back on....we had on member who failed at his attempt to remove the wheel without the proper tool....luckily he refinished it in place...as to damage to threads and column...no report on that.
I will just do as you have recommended. Thanks
Just to be on the safe side and to get it right. The nut and I call it spacer, which it probably is not called. So the nut and spacer can be taken off easily obviously. Which I already have. When using the puller shall I leave this set up on or off? My assumption would have been: off. Kindest regards. Thom
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Just to be on the safe side and to get it right. The nut and I call it spacer, which it probably is not called. So the nut and spacer can be taken off easily obviously. Which I already have. When using the puller shall I leave this set up on or off? My assumption would have been: off. Kindest regards. Thom
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OK. Just ordered one. Thanks ?
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Now the terrible part of the year is here again. Driving is no more and I am embarking on improving my cars health, fitness and look and feel. With the usual, almost unbelievable obscure battles and feeling lost far too many times. I literally spent 3 hrs. today trying to the change the vent window gasket. Ok, the change is done but the window does not close nor move. What an annoying bummer. Something that should take 2 hrs in total will probably take me two weeks in the long run.
Well, sorry for me dragging on.
Here now my actual question (supported by pictures below). The steering wheel needs refreshment. On I went and aimed for a 20 minute session (that is actually the link to my long and winding introduction :-). Off they went, the screws, the horn ring, the nut and I felt like the best mechanic in the world. Cool, that was easy, so I thought. And then I pulled on the steering wheel for the final feeling of victory. Only looking baffled and ... well of course this bloody thing does not come off, does not even vaguely move.
Now what? I have searched and saw this ancient looking horror device called "steering wheel puller". Is that the answer to my problem? Have I missed any other screws? What if such a puller is not at hand (which is the case), how else can I do it? Is it in the end a question of brute force? thanks for your help.
Thom
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thanks. Both information are sufficient enough as I shall simply aim for a similar paint number that is being in use over here ? Thanks to both of you for your swift and kind response. Thom
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thanks :-))))))))))))
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Hi,
my cars steering wheel looks to be painted in ivoryish white. Would that be the correct original colour? Does anybody know the actual "correctl" colour paint number?
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Carpet
in P15-D24 Forum
Posted
I am pretty sure it can be done even better, but I am fine with it ?