mellie

Yes looking at the rub spots the top lever pushes back towards pump where as the other (588?) goes under the lobe. They both feel/sound good and various posts seem to indicate a transition between the two in about ‘39 or ‘40. I think I’ll do what Los control suggested and bolt in the one I want and take it from there. What could possibly go wrong…. Thanks for the info!

Thanks. I’ll have to check out videos. The top one is tagged 587 which came off engine now in car. I would like to use the bottom one (no tag) as it matches up with fuel lines etc from removed engine. From what I can gather the top one is from earlier vehicles but researching if they can be swapped without issue.

Just wondering if these are interchangeable - both came off 218's but the radical difference in pump arms has me wondering - just hit the lobe differently?

Thanks. I wish I had thought of that with the engine out and unpainted... I have access to two ports but both have seem to become one with the block as I can't budge them even with a crescent wrench on the flathead screwdriver.

I'm going to add a second gauge but want to keep the original and was going to tee off where the 4" hose connects to metal tubing beside the firewall. Is there a special fitting available or is it matter of using a 1/8 NPT tee then find appropriate fittings in and out for the original piping. Just wondering what others have done as space is limited. Thanks Neil

Thanks. I think yours might be an external rod for the shifter. This is all buried within the column under the steering wheel. Thinking surgery is necessary.

Thanks Loren - will go searching - did you have to pull wheel to get access?

Ahh - OK - it does seem to rotate in three positions - prob needs a shot of contact cleaner/lubricant. Thanks.

Yes - forward and back motion which is pretty sluggish. When I pulled the engine and tranny a while back, someone actually had a spring clippe to that cable at the transmission and back to a bracket on the parking brake to pull cable to the back of car. (Rather than fix issue I guess)

Hey, on my 1940 Deluxe going back together, I found the shifter is quite gummy (though the garage is fairly cool) Not the up and down shifting which is moving the rod to transmission but the "in and out" which moves the cable. I have gotten the cable itself sliding smoothly so its all in the column somewhere. The question is where it might be gummed up and can I get some clean/lubrication in there without having to pull the whole thing. Saw Keith's video but it never covered that (floor shift?) The other peanut gallery question is based on the photo - what might these switches be for? Is there supposed to be a knob on the gold coloured one? Thanks Neil

Hi Bryan Not wanting to bogart your thread but what Kencoombs said about your piston was the first I could find on the subject. I've run into the same thing on my '51 230 ci disassembly except the spacer ring is on the second groove down. As you can see, the top grooves on a few pistons are pretty hooped - not sure if the machine/spacer ring is feasible or would machining costs dwarf a new piston set (which I see you are working towards). The previous owner said it was knocking pretty bad when he parked it 38 years ago - he thought it was bottom end but I'm wondering if this groove width would cause knocking. Enjoying your thread - very educational!

Thanks Keith although I would point out that Neil was first. And not because my name happens to be Neil either... Yes - I have been working through your considerable filmography as I pull this thing apart - very helpful and well laid out. Kudos! I hadn't got to this video just yet but see what you mean. This is a D42 (1951 ) but it didn't have that slinger washer you put on the crank after putting on the gears - that must have been deleted on later engines? Waiting patiently for restrictions to drop - we are 10 minutes from the border so that will open up availability of parts - or at least lower shipping costs.

Thanks - good point to measure and see what state they are in as well as sprocket wear. Might make sense rather than put something new on something old.

I know valves should stay in their respective homes but wondering if its critical that springs are the same or can they be mixed about? Also wondering about timing chain if there's a rule of thumb about slack or how do you know if it needs changing? This seems a bit loose but not sure. Thanks

9 foot box - interesting - missed that but I see what you mean on the high spots - probably result in chattering when engaging? I did notice when disassembling that the clutch disk was facing the wrong way but not sure if this would have any bearing. Could clutch disk be resurfaced to knock off high points? 1949 Wraith - yes southern BC but both engines are 23" and car came from US at some point. Both clutch disks are 10" as well. I see that now on the engine page that both the 23" and 25" truck came in 218 and 230 at that time. Hmmm could be onto something. Thanks

Hello First time posting but have been reading a pile of useful info from knowledgeable folks on this forum. Just in the process of swapping out a seized D42 from a 1940 Dodge Deluxe with what I thought was a running D2 but thanks to Eric Bannerman, was identified as a 1942ish block restamped at one time for a 1936 car. To make things more confusing, during some rebuild, they swapped in what must have been a 218 crank and rods as the stroke is only 4-3/8". My dreams of a 230 have been dashed until I rebuild the other one. The fellow I got it from swears its the original engine from a 1946 truck. Go figure. Anyway, as I have 2 flywheel clutch assemblies, I was just curious as to why one disc has a lot more meat on it than the other - would it be from a truck? I imagine OK to use in the car? Thanks Neil