maddmaxx1949

Check the downloads section. There might be one there.

Guys it has been a while since I've been on here. I wanted to just give an update. I am alive so that's a plus but I am really struggling right now going through my late 20's crisis I guess. @Sniper I am still working on getting those distribution tubes made but It had to be put on the back burner. Apologies for not following up and getting things taken care of when I said I would. I'm hoping to get things turned around in the next couple months and get back on track and back getting this car restored. I haven't been able to get to this project as much as it deserves. On a side note, when I do get back to it full time I will need some paint advice....

Yes I had fantastic results with these guys as well.

If you still have it on 9/10, message me and I'll come pick it up.

Nice find Rich, any chance you could make a template and put it in the downloads with the other overcenter spring gage template?

When you have that moment where you realize that stuff was supposed to be in there and you took it out because you thought it wasn't........ ooops. Thankful for this thread

Well just hit 1000 miles. and go for an oil change. Of course it never goes as planned, accidentally tipped the bike off the jack, dumped all the oil on the floor. Poured gas on myself swapping a suspect petcock, and to top it off the stupid idle jet was plugged for the umpteenth time and I stripped one of the heads of the float cover screws ggahhhh....I love this thing but sometimes I want to crush it.

I have a note in here on what I used with pictures as well. 2-2-349 and ran me about 50$ a piece.

Kind of why I bought it. Like to putter around town on it. Not really a go fast kind of person. I swapped the sprockets out to 17/40 and it's like a whole new bike. Only issue now is I think my petcock is leaking because I've run out of gas unexpectedly twice now after it sat for a few days. Got to check oil level in case it's running into the crankcase because that would be bad. Edit: Cheesy that's an awesome looking bike.

Probably wouldnt be difficult with the press. I do not have one or I'd be using it. But even a single ferrule smashed with a hammer on the end of a cable is remarkably strong. I've seen coyotes break snare cable before that ferrule comes off and they pull way hard than my baby man arms ever could. I wouldn't feel bad using a parking break with one I set like that. Especially if you double it up. I feel its harder to find the appropriate sleeve than actually building it. Could try a hand swager too however I wouldn't trust those as much. (but thats solely based on experience with the hammer smash trechnique.)

Do you mind if I add this diagram to my minimalist wiring post in the tech archives?

Hey all, here's a quick video I made to show the absolute minimum amount of wiring you would need to run your vehicle including the charging system (ammeter, voltage regulator, and generator. Fell free to comment or ask questions. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoeqvsME_ZM Here is the diagram that corresponds to the wiring in the video. Am = ammeter because apparently I forgot to write the rest of the word halfway through...

It looks to be in fairly good shape though I do have a spot where it's wore flat from rubbing somewhere maybe on the crossmember or something.

All fair points. And Yeah I was thinking some kind of crimping mechanism or something, not sure yet. Right now it's just some thoughts getting tossed around inside this mystery brain of mine. Obviously reliability and safety is the main focus which Is why I'll likely end up with a prefabbed cable anyways. I was also thinking of changing the under dash mount to a floor mounted ebrake because I like the position a whole lot better.

Before I get pounded by the ones saying "Just get a new one its only 100$ and piece of mind" I'll say that yes, that's the main plan.However, I like to make things myself for the learning experience. Partially driven by cost savings, mostly driven by the "I like to build stuff mentality has led me to this question. I was curious if anyone had made an Emergency Brake cable on there own. I ran over the one on my car and stretched to the point it's unusable. I found some threads where there had been some retrofitting but I'd like to try this from scratch for fun. One of the aircraft parts website had alot of good cable and housing options as well as some linkage I think would work. Just wanted some opinions, suggestions, etc. I might be able to resuse the housing since I only stretched the cable

Thats right where I put my battery haha. I used a Mason Jar so I couldn't go very far... That's a beautiful car you have there Robert. Not sure If mine will ever be brought back to that quality but It will be nice to be able to cruise with it

Well you can't see me in this video, but I was grinning from ear to ear! First movement under its own power since I got it and probably long since before I was alive. Strapped the battery down to the upper control arm and wired a stick to the accelerator linkage so I could hand operate it and away she went I'll get a shot of the inside here soon while I drive it. I don't have brakes yet and I could turn too fast or all the tools would've fallen out the rocker areas, but oh man it's a good day. Thank you all who have helped me get to this point so far, it means a ton. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BY0ZLReR_P8

Just found this thread and just wanted to chime in. Just got my permit about a month ago. While I was working in North Dakota I found a great deal on a good starter bike. Found this 2007 Yamaha Virago 250. It was posted for 1300 and I though it would be good to putter around town on. Met them in Montana and wow what a deal. It only had 550 miles on the odometer. It was basically brand new. Since I have only put about 200 on it but man is it fun. I'll have to work on my own camping rig after seeing some of yours....

Well with the pressure plate completely bolted down and transmission installed, I was able to take up most the play in the clutch pedal with the adjustment. I have about an inch and a half maybe 3/4" of free play and could probably get it down some more but I am not comfortable taking the adjustment out anymore.It is likely the linkage is worn a decent bit and definitely has a little slop so I am attributing the lack of remaining adjustment to the worn linkage. I have some but like I said not much so I dont want to unthread the rod accidentally. I am curious to see how much play I'd have with the new disc ( I imagine I'd have a decent bit more maybe 2- 2-1/2" in but no way I'm taking the trans and pressure plate off again just to see.

Well to be honest fellas, this is still a bit of a mystery but I can only speculate at this point. I had removed all the linkage to compare and I assembled it all back together this time excluding the transmission so I could see where everything was. I installed the pressure plate and the old disk and just guesstimated the alignment just for a mock up. installed the clutch fork and made sure the throwout bearing was on properly. Viola, now I am right up against the pressure plate and actually had to back off my free play adjustment a decent bit. No clue what the difference was. Maybe the clutch fork was only on one side of the bearing sleeve? Not over the ball on the bellhousing properly? All I know now is that the pedal feels like a normal pedal. I'll check the disk clearance when I get a helper but it will be plenty. If it changes after I install the transmission (which should make no difference whatsoever) then I might have another problem. One of those head scratchers...

Okay so here's what I'm working with. The painted parts came attached to my '49 when I bought it. The rusty linkage I pulled from the '51 I had. Throwout sleeve matches the one pulled from the 51 as well. Linkage all measures the same. Pressure plates are the same model B&B 952. Distance from clutch pedal lever to ball on frame is the same. I'll keep measuring things until I find something. Overcenter spring distance I'll adjust at the end as it doesn't affect the travel distance.

I'll put the set together from the '51 parts so at least the fluid drive, clutch disc and Pressure plate and throwout bearing all match. I can also take the linkage and pivot arm from the 51 as well. That at least gives me a baseline of similar parts. I don't remember how the clutch felt on it before I took it apart but I don't remember anything bad about like this one.

Yes it came with the car which included the the bellhousing and fork. It also matches the length of the '51 fluid Drive sleeve in length and is fairly long compared to the other truck ones and non-fluid drive carriers I have. I'll get a measurement tomorrow and am going to drop the lower bellhousing on the 50 chrysler and see if there is any difference in length/ pressure plate depth etc. I will also double check the distance from the clutch fork ball to the pivot arm. That's kind of the only other thing I can think of is maybe the whole engine and trans can be moved up a 1/2" or so, but I find that as unlikely since its bolted in.