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Posts posted by Booger
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23 minutes ago, CarlN-NDC said:
The previous owner of my DeSoto actually already installed a low pressure inline electric fuel pump. I know the electric pump works, but I am not sure how old it is or it's overall condition. He mainly used it for filling the carburetor bowl if it sat for an extended period, otherwise, he strictly used the mechanical pump. I plan to replace the entire fuel line from the tank to the junction block that transitions into the soft line. Currently, the fuel line is a mix of the original 83-year-old line, a straight section of steel that was done in the 1980s, and a small section of NiCopp that was done within the last 5 years.
I will inspect the electric fuel pump when I remove the hard line. Depending on it's condition, I will either reuse it or install a new electric pump. I definitely want to have a backup pump if one or the other fails. I'm also partial to the idea of having an electric pump to push through vapor lock, should it occur during the Summer months or while on tours.
the fuel line replacement is a great idea as well Your on top of it
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fuel pump got lazy on Booger. I added a electric inline fuel pump instead of messing with a replacement. Very happy with results
an option to consider
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Search out Mike's carb. Rebuild kits are around 45$
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You can find a 10-150# 1/2" torque wrench for $45 at the orange store
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Use the impact wrench to snug things up, then finish going round the clock with tor-kay wrench
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OMG it's like Twilight Zone
(You remember, right?) Stuff happens. As pretty as hub caps are they can hide danger. Hand it to Chrysler at least they did opposite threads on wheel bolts. 85 -90 ft lbs please
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11 hours ago, keithb7 said:
Spring arrived this week. I saw enough vintage cars and motorcycles on the road to stir-up some nostalgia. I removed the car cover and rolled out my ‘38 Chrysler today. It flashed up and ran like a hot engine that was just tuned-up yesterday. I didn’t do a thing other than check the oil and hit the electric fuel priming pump. I love a well maintained flathead engine.
While warming it up the pup wanted in on the action. We went around the neighbourhood a couple times. I will drain the oil now and put in a fresh jug of 10W40.
How’s 2024 shaping up in your Mopar neighbourhood?
-59,331 miles.
Just added new fuel line and electric fuel pump. Man what a difference. Booger starts like NOW.
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5 hours ago, Ivan_B said:
This might be a rather unintelligent question, but are you sure it's the transmission and not the engine or something else leaking?
If you are capable of taking out and re-doing the transmission, one would usually assume that you would've properly sealed all of the applicable junctions etc. You did not add the fluid while still on the bench, did you?
Where is it leaking from, specifically? Do you have a picture?
Good point Ivan. Rear main seal and tranny leak can be cornfusing. Leaks arent the worst thing. youll figger it out with the pinky test in tranny
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Ivan I donk know wtf that wire was...it should not have been there. But good to see running temp is normal. Now lets get the cholestoral down
2 hours ago, Ivan_B said:I have finally replaced the hoses and thermostat. I think it works exactly like I expected: the car is now warming up extremely fast, and then settles at about 180. Just as it should
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Nothing wrong with it. Bump into it while it's running and your sweaty
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Who wouldnt love those results? Rough math sez 65mph at 2300 rpm in OD? what Im talkin bout
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Very impressive break down...
And yes the 49 3.73 with an R10 skips right along at 70 mph
(Wish I could find a R10)
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Wow lots of work there but doable when you seen other members replace floor pans. For the trunk lid start with French Lake Auto in Ana nadale MN
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50 light years away I installed an R10 to a P18 and used a choke cable for OD. no solenoid. No issues. But I didnt have the Randy Rundle Tech book. If your interested in R10 ODs its a must have. Theres one on Ebay $22
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If my washing machine only worked that good..weird
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I suppose we need not worry about the simplicity of plain ol 30w motor oil anymore. Cuz ya cant find it. (lest not Yalmart no mo)
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Heres the thing 49. Back in 49..
Your car used 30w (probably detergent motor oil) and the 3 sp manual tranny was a no brainer 80-90w and the rear end as well. So lets over engineer everything and decide what worked then is no good now.
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Suicide doors? Um I'm no historian but I doubt that's vw. I'll take it
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Hey y'all. Skinner spot on
Screen shot it and print it. Put it in your repair manual. Dumb stuff..
Dont forget condenser
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have we gotten off topic here? synthetics are useful in engine oil. Go to whatever church you like there. But gear oil is gear oil. 80w-90. Done
(and OBTW nothing wrong with Yalmart 10-30)
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5 Plymmies in 50 years (3 49s) always 90w front and back. Just keep em topped off
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There you have it kids and thanks to all our contestants. Booger sez steer away from all that goopy stuff
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Both good points and well taken.
It's why were here
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Does an undercoating make sense?
Protect the raw steel floor pan?
DIY Flex seal? Professionally done?Its gotta quiet road noise. Of course no drive shaft.....or tranny stuff.
Asche Dual Carb - Red's Header - 1934 Dodge DR Convertible project coming to a close
in P15-D24 Forum
Posted
That thing is primo! Thanks for sharing