GoodnightIrene

This is true, but, It was cheap and available. An automotive store simply wont supply you with the quantity of wire you need to make a new harness. Might I add, I'm not sure about the quality of insulation you get from those tail light wires you can buy at O'Reilly's. I simply made sure to bundle everything tightly and run them through sleeves to keep anything from rubbing through. Here is a pic of my new harness going through the firewall.

Just buy wire by length or a whole spool at home depot. It is higher quality stuff then what the auto parts stores sell, and cheaper. I re-made my wiring harness using 10 gauge stranded wire I bought there, but other places like ace might have it. Its copper wire with a thick nylon and a transparent plastic insulation. It was cheap and I could always get more when I needed it. They also carry connectors for various gauges. Friction tape is also nice for bundling it up as it doesn't unravel over time, but use sparingly as it is made of cloth.

you got me with the "bore eaters" haha Thank you, this really helped out. I really wasn't sure if anyone made anything other then the chromed or cast iron rings. What baffled me was that this OEM kit has expanders that made installing the ring compressor quiet difficult. I think I'll go with chrome rings in the future if this quick fix doesn't pan out.

The ring groove depth is not a problem; they are as deep as on the stock pistons. I decided to reverse the placement of the last two oil rings and simply removed the expander from the single piece cast iron scraper ring. That way, I don't have to concern myself with the chances of the expander spinning in the groove and finding its way into that massive drainage opening. I also read that the direct disadvantage to using cast iron rings with expanders will simply be more friction force and cylinder wear in the long run. This kit (power punch "oil master") is a band-aid solution for worn cylinders. If this set of rings compensates for the cylinder taper I have and reduces oil consumption, I'll be a happy camper. For those questioning whether or not to use nos rings, stick with the modern equivalent rings if you are getting your engine re-bored.

nice Have you used them with modern or NOS pistons? ?

I'm a bit torn here I got these NOS rings real cheap about a year ago for an engine refresh I was doing. I got caught up in life matters and the project took a nap. Upon revisiting the project now, I see that these rings are not compatible with the modern Silv-o-lite pistons I ordered. These rings rely on expanders that would slip into the pistons oil drain cavities. The original mopar pistons used drilled oil-drain holes that dident interfere with their operation. Sooo, the questions I have are: Could I simply delete these spring-steel expanders from the oil scraping rings to make them compatible? I have not yet seen any ring expanders in the two engines I've disassembled, a 230ci and 218ci inline 6. so did people just delete them? Are these NOS rings any good or will they just eat away at my cylinder walls? As I've noticed, they do provide considerable outwards force.

Got back and cut the gaskets, here is what I'm left with. They seem quiet pliable and hopefully will do the job. It was also a hell of a lot cheaper then buying them pre-cut. Need to pinch every dime. ^^

Wonderful, so that would be a 1/64" felpro gasket, found a link: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fel-pro/fel-pro-gasket-material/fel0/3045?q=gasket+material+1%2F64&pos=1 Thanks for the help!

Plan on cutting new gaskets for my powerflite but haven't a clue as to what thickness of material to go with. My local parts shop only stocks 1/32" material and it seems considerably thicker then the stuff I pulled from the transmission. I would really appreciate any help on the matter.

Thanks for the help folks, the picture really helps. It seems like I'm missing a retaining element for that dust shield, that red painted wire. Anyone happen to know here I could find something similar? I'm also missing the small service door for the drum, it appears that those get thrown out very often.

Does anyone know if the output shaft rear bearing in the extension housing on the powerflite transmission gets packed with grease? I assume not but I don't see how it gets lubrication and the manual does state that the oil seal is followed by a grease shield. I honestly don't know what the grease shield is there for, just to keep dirt away from the oil seal?

This is my first time posting here Like Greg said, buy the service manual and study it (has lots of pictures to illustrate steps) if you want it to work, make time on your weekends. This is a project!!! But it is certainly do-able if you want to learn. Here is a good parts sight to start. the link is to the manual. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/plymouth,1948,p15+deluxe,3.6l+218cid+l6,1486874,literature,repair+manual,10335 its $13.30 plus shipping off rock auto.