Tooljunkie
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Everything posted by Tooljunkie
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Oil leaking from behind crank pulley
Tooljunkie replied to TylerB46's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
If i recall, the blue ring goes in, then seal is pressed into cover. -
Oil leaking from behind crank pulley
Tooljunkie replied to TylerB46's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Seal race is on the damper. It may be grooved. A repair sleeve can be installed on it. suck that pan has to come off to get at 1 timing cover bolt. -
70’s dodge pickups had a cable operated water valve. I added a pinswitch to turn fan on. Works slick, too bad heater is such a piece of crap. Will pull heater out of my parts truck and revisit the whole setup.
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I never thought we would ever experience what this past year has delivered. It has been a difficult few months, but we will get through this. so to all a Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year!
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Dont hate me. But these old tools outlived their usefulness. the adjustable wrench was an interesting piece. a friend on another forum passed along a timing light and an ignition tester, probably from the 60’s. both work.
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Back to removing the bolt, if yo have the other bolt out, can you move the bracket up/down with a crescent wrench? Or is there not enough to grab? its been a year and a day since i had mine apart,to do the king pins, and brakes.
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No. I have 2 A-body mopars as well, so fabo is like my go to for info and parts/entertainment. my apologies to op for drifting off topic.
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That’s me! and yes it is a small world, considering i visit 3 forums regularily.
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Water and vibration, percussion will work. Boss had a stuck trailer hitch. He chained to a tree, was afraid he would rip the hitch out of the frame. We used hot water and my air hammer, within a minute it was out.
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OTT has some great info. I also have a grey market tractor. L1501. Awesome little machine.
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I agree, bulbs are in housings, and just snap in. Easy to replace.
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For rusted parts i use water. And an air hammer. Rattling on the casting to knock tge rust loose. But its only effective if no oil has been sprayed on it. i would prop up my propane torch and let it heat while i drink a cup of coffee.then hit it with cold water. Rinse and repeat. The rapid cooling, will break down the rust, as well as draw in water, then extra heat will turn water into steam, also breaking up the rust.
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I did away with it, bought a spin on adapter and end of problem. Bypass filters dont filter 100% of oil that flows, and the everyday spin on oil filter will likely trap just as much as the original.
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And the finished product.
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Dont know if this qualifies, work in progress, made the framework yesterday, and just laying it out to see what it will look like. Photo loaded upside down, but you get the idea.
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That sucks. Well its not so bad that it cannot be fixed. still, stuff like this should never happen. It was parked after all.
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There is also friction drilling. Often used in thin wall tubing.
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Have changed a few pans on caravans, and more of those pipes than i can count. There is another version of that pipe with oil cooler, they are more prone to failure.
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This is a huge project. The “guy” has a ton of hours into this. But bit off more than he could chew. i dont know if there would be a systematic approach to this, but strength in the framework would be job 1. I would plan on lots of bolt in stiffeners,and fitting the 1 piece flip front end. when i build/fab anything i like to take the time to make things serviceable. watching videos,or shows with custom builds, i wonder how some even check the oil. even the simplest things, like a repower, i have installed/removed engines 4 times. This applies to almost every aspect.
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Its a big nut, once hard line is removed,a socket will go on. my frame was the same,i made a fish plate and welded it on. only driver’s side.
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I have been considering this myself. The flex hose, in the event if it fails i think i will use a grease whip hose. Cheap, 1/8 npt will adapt to 3/16” inverted flare easily. will take the pressure and heat will be negligible.
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Nylon is not a good choice. to each his own. there were nylon injection kits for king pins way back when, and only used as a temporary measure. pull knuckles and have a machine shop ream them for you. Not a big deal.
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Glad things are getting sorted out. Im curious how the muffler got so hot, or maybe just a cheap muffler? in lieu of grease or bread, wet paper towel works too. The pusher has do be a near perfect fit to the pilot bushing. the preference to do your own work will be more rewarding than paying a bill. And what you save in labour can go towards more tools! there is a wealth of knowledge here,and many im sure are willing to give great advice.
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All the wiring fell apart in my fargo, i could see someone tried to get it running. No success. Im 4 or 5 days into rewiring it, its a lot of work and very difficult to make it not look like a spaghetti factory. guessing 200 feet of wire and 25 hours work. Added signals, stereo and backup and brake warning lights. still lots to secure, protecting wires from abrasion is very important. Then i need to do some load tests to verify the circuits and fuses are sufficient. Did a roadside repair on a hot rod that dropped a couple wires out of the terminals. Obviously the builder didnt do a tug test. i like to solder the higher load circuits,some sense of security.
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Posted this up in trucks forum, but you asked. I have a small auto repair shop,basically i work from home. a few years ago my son made up a sign that said Franks Garage, not the business name but it went up on the front of the shop. I took the sign a little further, and applied it to the doors of my 51 Fargo.
