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lostviking

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  1. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from Worden18 in Restoring a Mopar Deluxe Model 31 Heater   
    Deluxe badge came out pretty good.
     
     

  2. Like
    lostviking reacted to billrigsby in Restoring a Mopar Deluxe Model 31 Heater   
    That's a lot better than pretty good, I have to say you have the touch, beautiful.  👍
  3. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from 49D-24BusCpe in Restoring a Mopar Deluxe Model 31 Heater   
    Deluxe badge came out pretty good.
     
     

  4. Like
    lostviking reacted to Tooljunkie in Fitting aftermarket heater   
    So i thought i would share a little modification i think may help someone. 
    My 51 fargo, near as i can tell never had a heater, as defroster ducts were non existant. 
    wife found a compact heater on a site called wish,$69.
    so i proceeded to mount it,and decided to put a water valve on it. Cable operated from a mid 70’s dodge pickup. Next was switching it. As i didnt want to bore another hole in dash, i decided to think outside the box. Cable pulled slightly and fan will come on,and temp can be regulated by opening valve more or less.


  5. Like
    lostviking reacted to Plymouthy Adams in frame strengthening thought   
    stiffen the joint with an inner liner...weld the seams...fish plate the joints...
  6. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from bkahler in Restoring a Mopar Deluxe Model 31 Heater   
    Almost done  I need to repair the band that clamps the two halves, and refinish the paint on the "Deluxe" badge and the defroster pull handle. But here is what it looks like. The studs that go through the motor clear, and so did the fan shaft, so I'm leaving them alone.


     
    I initially tried to rivet the door handles back on, but the nose on my rivet gun is too large and damaged the surfaces. I used screws, nuts and Loctite.
     
    Just need to fabricate the mounting adapter at the firewall, and get the large nuts that hold it in. Oh, and switch, h2o valve...minor stuff
  7. Like
    lostviking reacted to Plymouthy Adams in Wife says I’m crazy   
    old vehicles are as girlfriends...only a fool will tell the wife where they are and how much you spend on them...
  8. Haha
    lostviking reacted to Los_Control in Wife says I’m crazy   
  9. Like
    lostviking reacted to Young Ed in Restoring a Mopar Deluxe Model 31 Heater   
    Located it and it was actually right where I thought! 5" wide at the bottom 6.75" at the top. Left is 5.75" right 6". 2" tall bottom and 7/8 at the top. Top and bottom have a flange. Top of the holes is 1" from the top edge. 

     
    P
  10. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from Tooljunkie in Restoring a Mopar Deluxe Model 31 Heater   
    I'm starting a new thread to show this restoration, rather than continue to use the "What Heater fits..." thread I started when I was trying to find a heater. I'm not going to move the content related to the restoration, but you can still see it here:
     
    The beginning of the project to restore the heater is there, I'm picking it back up with the rust removal of the rest of the box and associated parts. Today I did the first half of the main box. I again used a power supply and a bucket of water with Washing Soda it in. The details can be seen on the previous thread. Nothing new there. I am using the currently limiting resistor this time of course to avoid damaging my power supply, again. Due to other resistances in the circuit, namely I didn't bother to get a perfect connection from my negative wire to the metal, the current was about 1.36A. That's based upon there being a 6.82ish volt drop across my 5-Ohm resistor. Ohms law.
     
    I didn't take a picture of the metal before, but I do have the other side and the first part I did today. I left it in the bath for around 3 hours. There is a very minor amount of rust in some places. Most people might just use a spray over rust type paint, but I'm going to put it back in the bath tomorrow to finish the job.
     
    Looking at these pieces to take pictures, I see the worst part is the ones I've already done. I still wouldn't paint over this rust. A side benefit of the electrolytic rust removal, is that is take all the original paint off too
     


  11. Like
    lostviking reacted to Young Ed in Restoring a Mopar Deluxe Model 31 Heater   
    I've got one of those somewhere. I'll try and locate it and get some dimensions
  12. Thanks
    lostviking got a reaction from vikingminer49er in Alternator ground: negative or positive?   
    It's simple. Measure between the positive terminal on the battery and the frame. It you see positive 12 volts, then it is negative ground.
  13. Like
    lostviking reacted to PT81PlymouthPickup in TAPPED HOLE IN CYLINDER HEAD AND GROUND STRAPS?   
    Mine just turned 81 and I've been restoring it for 41 years. And! It's still not done. 😉
  14. Like
    lostviking reacted to 1952B3b23 in 1934 1 1/2 ton dually 65mph?   
    That's a really nice truck and bike! Just think if you're top speed is only 45 mph that means more people will be able to see your awesome truck cruise by. :D
     
    -Chris
  15. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from Worden18 in Restoring a Mopar Deluxe Model 31 Heater   
    Here is a first coat of the hammered finish paint. I think I like it. I didn't sand off a bit of left over paint where I circled, I should have but hey. I'll wait a couple days and sand it before I do another coat of paint. The inside I'll only do area's I might have missed the first time.
     
    Not bad for an amateur and rattle cans. I'll be more careful about sanding off paint that stays behind on the remaining parts.

  16. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from John Rogers in YOM plate restoration odyssey   
    Still working on this. I've been a bit of a nit picker over details, so I've restarted several times from bare metal. This last time around I'm fairly happy. When I sanded the black off the lettering, with 4 coats of clear over several coats of white, I did sand through a couple spots. That's due to the plate not being flat, although I could have been more careful. Today I sprayed some of the white into a small container, and used a very fine brush to touch up the few places I went through. There were a couple black spots that showed also, so I covered them also.
     
    It's been about 2-1/2 days since I sanded last, so I should have been good...but one small spot on one letter wrinkled a bit. I'm planning on another coat of paint brush white and a finger print sized sanding area to see how flat I can get that. I won't touch it again until the weekend though. I think I will be happy with the out come.
     
    Then I'm going to let it sit a full week. After that I'll clear coat the entire place back and front. Then I'm going to hit up the CA DMV to get the plate transferred to my truck. We'll see how that goes in the current climate.

  17. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from ggdad1951 in What heater fits 1946 WD15?   
    And lastly for today, that second part with some primer on it.

  18. Like
    lostviking reacted to kencombs in Good price for 230 engine   
    I can't answer the price question, too many variables, but you can expand your search to include 218s, if you really only need a block.  They're the same, just crank and rods are different.
  19. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from Radarsonwheels in Horsepower S.A.E. and Horse Power?   
    Engines/cars are still rated by crank HP. The deal today is that accessories that are standard equipment, like power steering must be installed on the engine during the testing. The standard is SAE J1349.
  20. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from Radarsonwheels in YOM plate restoration odyssey   
    Not done yet...You might have noticed I'm a pick nitter, so I will touch up the edges of the 8. The 3 is probably fine. I don't want it to look too good, they didn't originally. I used a dense foam block to sand, 2000 grit. But I pushed too hard on the 8 and it deformed over the edge. that why the bottom right looks like that. I started on the other end and was rushing a bit by the last character. The CAL at the top and 45 on the other end are the only other parts that still need white. Then clear over it all to give it some protection.

  21. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from John Rogers in YOM plate restoration odyssey   
    Not done yet...You might have noticed I'm a pick nitter, so I will touch up the edges of the 8. The 3 is probably fine. I don't want it to look too good, they didn't originally. I used a dense foam block to sand, 2000 grit. But I pushed too hard on the 8 and it deformed over the edge. that why the bottom right looks like that. I started on the other end and was rushing a bit by the last character. The CAL at the top and 45 on the other end are the only other parts that still need white. Then clear over it all to give it some protection.

  22. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from John Rogers in YOM plate restoration odyssey   
    Did the wet sanding tonight. It works like a charm. You need to make sure you have several clear coats, I did the five that were recommended. I still need to use a fine brush to paint in the small recessed letters on the top of a California 1945 plate with some more white. After that cures, I'll spray several clear coats over everything. I think it's going to come out pretty good after all.
  23. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from Radarsonwheels in YOM plate restoration odyssey   
    Did the wet sanding tonight. It works like a charm. You need to make sure you have several clear coats, I did the five that were recommended. I still need to use a fine brush to paint in the small recessed letters on the top of a California 1945 plate with some more white. After that cures, I'll spray several clear coats over everything. I think it's going to come out pretty good after all.
  24. Like
    lostviking reacted to squirebill in stucked oil ring in T214   
    Rebuilt engine with good compression, good oil pressure and 1000 km since overhaul.  I would give it another 1000 km of driving to properly "break -in" the engine and let rings properly seat in the cylinders.  Will probably see a decrease in oil consumption as engine components wear in.  Just my 2 cents.  Regards 
  25. Like
    lostviking got a reaction from minicooper in Tim's multi-year engine odyssey   
    Wow, been quite awhile...but I finally have some more progress to report. I got the engine, sans head which I previously removed...and some other small items, on the engine stand. I was then able to pull the oil pan, flip it over and go at the crank. Every thing came apart fairly easily, with one exception. The oil transfer line. Being an occasional idiot, I didn't put a wrench on the fitting in the block. The first one came apart so easily, I didn't even think about it. Bad idea. On the second one, the compression fitting was turning with some force...when I noticed it was the fitting in the block that was actually turning. I twisted the tubing. AAAAAAAA. I'll have to bend and flare a new one when it goes back together, or just use the one in my other motor. Which is more likely.
    Anyway on to good stuff. Inspecting the bearings, I remain convinced that this motor never had more than around 60K on it. There is almost zero wear on any bearing. I think the truck got parked and just sat too long. The previous owner would have been surprised if he had rebuilt this motor. But he didn't want to spend the $3K, so he bought a good running engine and swapped instead.
    That makes my desire for a numbers matching rebuild easier. I of course need to have the block inspected for cracks I can't see. I don't have the best vision anymore, and even if I did you all know that magnaflux testing is a must.
    I still need to get a ridge breaker to remove the pistons. That .005 or slightly larger ridge at the top of the cylinders is enough to grab the rings, and I don't want to take the chance of causing any damage trying to force them past it.
    I'll get the pistons out and then send the block to be refreshed. I won't bother with the crank or rods, those will end up in someone else's motor eventually. I fully intend to rape the 230 for it's crank and rods and use my block.
    That's it for today. Since it's my only truck, I'll be using the 46 to take the block to a machine shop. Have to avoid the freeway speeds, but I can get there and back on side streets.
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