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Posts posted by lostviking
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If you compress the spring and push the valve all the way up, isn't there enough room to remove the lifter? I've only disassembled one motor, and it was awhile ago now. Can't remember how tall the lifters are.
Loctite and teflon tape probably won't work. I'd try wrapping a small strand of copper wire inside the threads and then screwing it back together. The copper should deform and fill any gap. If you try Ken's method, don't form too much of a ridge, or you just cut more metal away. It's not a bad idea, it's actually how some lock nuts work.
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I rebuilt the stock vacuum wiper motors and will be reinstalling them. I'm going to add a small vacuum pump and a tank, so that when vacuum is too low, I still have full speed wipers. A check valve and pressure switch will enable to pump when it's needed only. I know it's not really "original' but I like the look of original and I can hide the pump and tank.
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In order to do what you describe, you would need to add a LOT of circuitry to switch circuits using one voltage, but be switching circuits at another voltage. I can figure out how to do it, because I'm weird like that...but it wasn't easy or something I would have ever done. I just wanted to see if I could. It is frankly a mess. Listen to Merle and just do a 12V conversion. It's not hard, so why create needless and unproductive complication?
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Sorry for not answering. By the time I got home I forgot about your question. I see you got a good answer already.
Tim
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I did some searching because I didn't know if the gauge was measuring voltage or current. I found an excellent thread with a great explanation of how the gas gauge works.
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Back out today to wet sand everything. This time around I also used a tiny amount of glazing putty on some paint chips in the original paint. The entire fender is sanded, so I covered it completely in primer. There are two small spots I think still need a touch, but it's almost ready to sit and wait for the weather to break. Not only is it humid, but we are having a major heat wave for the next week. Even just sitting and wet sanding left me soaked. Drank lots of water.
Hopefully be painting soon. That running board is never going to be perfect, and I haven't done anything since I flattened it back out. I've got a fend and the lower door and cab to get color on. It will have to be off for that anyway, so I'll look at ways to get it closer to looking nice again.
Enjoy your weekend everyone.
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Me thinks she would be wrong. The gas gauge cares.
Tim
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I'll try to remember to check when I get home. I have one of them off right now.
Tim
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It's been almost a month of hot muggy weather. Humidity in the mid to upper 80%. So I've been working on making the fender as smooth as my skills can get. There is no heavy layers of bondo anywhere. The thickest is maybe .060, because I am a nit picker.
Here is how it looked today. I think it's almost ready to spray. Of course right after I hit it with primer, I saw a small area that could use some glazing putty. Nit picker extreme
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If patients completely fails, because it takes time to free some bolts, make sure you center punch it and use a Kobalt drill. A smallish one. You just want a hole through it, not to drill it completely out. That should relax the "fit" a little and help you get it moving.
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OK, I got bored and bypassed a lot of this. So, if I'm repeating I am sorry
The slits are there to allow a small amount of coolant to constantly circulate through the heater core. This is to prevent corrosion of the core.
Tim
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They are probably talking about using a punch to deform the metal around the pin, to help grab it. I would drill a hole and use a spring (roll) pin to retain mine.
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On 8/2/2022 at 10:18 AM, 53 B4D said:
Nice! You have many posts. Is this the one you are referring - 1946 WD15 rear end swap...and full replumb of brakes?
Yes, that's the one where I swapped the rear. Nothing is ever completely done...so there were other posts, as well as completely other things. I can't keep my hands from doing "things" sometimes.
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Not too hard at all. There are several threads, including mine on my 46 showing the process.
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The edge of the wheel opening still has a bend in it. I think I know how to support the fender to pull that out. Next time around though. And one overall of the progress. I guess it's pretty good considering where I started.
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It's been humid in San Diego for some time now. This is the time of year that humidity is 85% or higher most of the time. Any meaningful painting is out of the question.
That said, I got a bit more work done today. Just sanding and primer to show me the rough spots. I used my RO sander with some 80 and 320 to both blend the edges of old paint and rough up the surface of it...plus sand on the primer I've already got down. I did miss a couple spots, but it's not the final primer anyway.
Here I missed the edge, so I'll do that part by hand.
Here I didn't even try to get the crack in the paint between the ridges. I'll get that next go around also.
Here is where a lot of damage was. I had to weld the whole bottom lip (which you can't see) all the way around to the left. It got ripped loose. I will need to lay on a micro layer to filler to smooth this and block sand it.
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Sorry for the delay. No, there isn't supposed to be one either. I goes from the regulator through the ameter to everything else...via the light switch. Lights do not go through the ign switch, so you should see draw with just the lights on. The current comes from Batt (-) through the ameter to the light switch (makes a stop at the starter first), N0 10 Red wire, then No 12 Brown wire to the light switch.
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Mine shows a draw when I turn on the lights, 1946.
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Completely agree in this case. I am just a creature of habit, and that's how I've always installed washers...and why I make that choice.
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Not to just be contrary, but I always put the rounded side towards the head of the bolt. The bolt has less surface to be making contact. The flat thing you are putting the washer against has the larger area. That is just my thinking, I've not read anything specific either way.
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Unless it's a show truck, I would seriously consider going to the PowerWagon website and getting the PCV upgrade the military put in.
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Hi everyone, haven't said anything in a month and haven't really done much either. I've got all of the welding on the front fender done, including the inside where is attaches to running board. It's probably ready for bondo, but I might hit it a bit more with the hammers.
What I've been doing is working on a new front fender for my 1979 FLH. I wanted to practice painting something small, that is easy to redo when I mess something up. So far I've got three contrasting layers of primer on it, red oxide on the bottom. I like to put red oxide there because you can see it easily when you are wet sanding and know to stop.
I just finished wet sanding it, but there were a few spots on the fender mounts where the metal was damaged in manufacturing. To fix that I got out my Dremel and smallest sanding drums. After I got it flat, or more correctly a bit lower than flat, I hit it again with some heavy coats of primer. The rivets that hold the mounts to the fender are hard to sand around, and you usually hit metal on them. I sprayed that area again also.
Most of the fender is the top color of primer, but baby butt smooth. Maybe 1/3 shows the second color, and only edges and the rivet show any red oxide.
It's close to time for color. That is what it was all about also. I've had the fender maybe 10 years. Once I can paint the fender without errors, I'll feel like going for the truck.
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It appears that the 3/8-27 is used on gas burner valves. Here is a link that leads me to believe that: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/all-points-26-2937-3-8-27-x-3-8-cct-female-coupling/AP262937.html
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In the 46 trucks, there is a 30A fuse on the rear of the light switch. Everything is pretty much fed through leads coming from this switch, so it protects (the fuse) everything. BUT, when it goes, so does everything.
If you are not building a points show truck, I would add a fuse box, and run every lead coming from where ever the central point of feed for your truck, in my case the light switch, through an appropriate sized fuse for that circuit. So, if you lose anything but the ignition, you can still get home, or to somewhere safe.
LV
Daydreaming .... sort of
in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Posted
Pinion angle should be the same as it is now, unless the pinion sits at a different height. Which it might. Measure the angle of the u-joint flange face on the trans, and match that at the pinion. You can buy a mag mount digital angle gauge for about $10 like I did when I swapped my Jeep rear into a 46.