lostviking

I used this one Duralast Brake Master Cylinder NM55022. Sorry Jim, I didn't see your question earlier, but my truck is a WD15, so next earlier design. I'm not sure if there was a big change in that specific area, but I have no clearance problems at all with mine.

It is bolted to the original bolt holes. On the tran side, the center hole matches the correct A833 bearing retainer. There are different sizes, so this only works on the one that I picked. Simple change for anyone who chooses a different one. The rest is the same. It's not a final design because I need to look at the outline. Don't have anything to look at right now, and I'm having $5K in dental done, so I'm distracted.

This is what I've got. I used flathead bolts to create "studs for the transmission, and flathead bolts to mate the adapter plate to the bell housing. I have neither an A833 nor a loose bell housing to verify all of these measurements. I appreciate the help everyone has given in getting them, but use with a huge amount of salt please. If anyone does have the parts to verify these dimensions, please do and then chime in.

On a roll I guess. This is one way to reduce the cost a bit. Drops on elbow and reduced tubing. That stuff is about $1/ft, so not much savings really. On all of these, there are details for the throttle I haven't added yet.

Take a look at Rockauto, this seems to be it...https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1947,truck,3.9l+237cid+l6,1486601,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

I had the flanges only quoted. For a single manifold it's about $36 for the center and $25 each for the side flanges. That drops to $20(ish) each if I order 10 parts. If I ordered enough to build 10 manifolds, the price for the sides doesn't go down, so about $60 for a set of flanges. The only issue is the company only works up to .500 thick, and the flanges should be .5625 (9/16). If I build them, I would machine a step in the flange washer to make up the difference, or maybe just face my manifold. It's cast iron, so I don't think taking .0625 out would hurt it.

Now, should I just order a set for myself is the real question. Wasn't planning on manufacturing intakes, but who knows, I might know someone who wants a set of 6061-T6 flanges.

Once you have the block side flanges, you can do quite a bit. My other passion is Harley's, and I do like the CV40 carb. It's designed to work on an engine that shakes, so living on a flathead would be easy. The carb has a rubber tube that mounts it to the stock intakes, but people like myself commonly adapt them to our older engines, like my shovelhead. You epoxy a flange to the intake side of the carb, and that let's you bolt it to the two bolt flange on older intake manifolds. Hmmmm, what could be better or cheaper to make than a straight tube manifold and the best fuel distribution for our motors is three carbs.

Not finished, but food for thought, but this is easy to make, carbs are very inexpensive, have huge jet and needle choices. Flange adapters are less than $20.

This is done with 1.5" 6061-T6 pipe. It's schedule 40, so nice wall thickness to support everything. 1.66" OD, 1.38" ID.

The flange adapters are O-ring also CV40's have integrated return springs and manual "chokes". Of course with this same design you could use an SS carb also, like a Super E.

Found this link on the AAC website, tried it and it's working.

https://www.scarebird.net/

One more shot. I think this is the basic design. I'm going to look at some reinforcement flanges, but I have to get the weight of the carbs and do FEA on it. I'll do that Monday when I'm not logging in remotely. I put the carbs at 2.5Deg.

Edit: I wouldn't be cheap to make. Even with getting welding for free, I figure something north of $300 for materials. As much as $400 exactly like this, single part. I know I can shave it a bit with some careful thought about the design. LOL, the Offy cost as much as the material for this, and it's not completely ready to build yet. Of course that's what I paid...$335. Now when I just checked the same source is $541. I guess mine would be a deal.

Here it is using 1.25 Sch 40 pipe. That is 1.66 OD and 1.38 ID. Plenty of wall thickness IMHO.

I took the Offy in to work Friday so I could get some dimensions. One thing I noticed was the OD of the tubes that connect to the block facing flanges. At about 1.7" they were quite a bit smaller than the tube elbows I'd found, and put in my model. I had to find something else, so I found some 1.66" OD with the correct (for the flange) ID of 1.25". I replaced them in the model. I still have the 2" OD log, but I'm thinking I can change that to 1.75". Maybe something else, I need to look at what materials are avail. Might just keep it, but the .25 wall makes it kind of heavier than it needs to be. Here is what it looks like today. BTW, I was able to model the block facing flanges accurately after measuring everything at work.

Fuel, brake, hydraulic. I wasn't going to make a guess

You might start by telling us what you are asking about.

There are quite a few drawbacks to the Offy design. It's probably better than a stock intake. I everything Tim Kingsbury has written about intakes for our engines. I've also studied the AoK design as much as I can from all the pictures available. I can see where it is an improvement over the Offy, and I understand the advantages of the multi-carb setup for fuel distribution. That isn't just a performance thing.

I don't like the idea of using steel for the intake. I'm not arguing with anyone who chose that path, and I've seen "M by M" stuff, and it's price. Not something I'd go for, but you certainly can. I'm sure the manufacturing is quite good. I just don't like using steel for intake manifolds, and for me it's only the cost of materials.

The log, is partly for strength and of course for the balancing of all the ports. I am currently using the 2in pipe because it makes welding the elbows and the carb flanges not yet in the design to it easier. Triple carbs IS a better design, but the cost goes up also. Just a trade-off I made.

I know Tim and George Asche both like and use the B&B carbs. I respect their experience over internet chatter. I chose Carter WA-1 carbs, partly because I was able to buy two identical carbs with manual chokes, but also because I like vacuum controlled metering rods.

I have an Offy, but I'm going to sell it.

Got my new parts in today. MUCH better design, if I do say so myself

Great idea. I'll check.

Started over...didn't like the tubing walls. These have .145 thickness.

The first pattern. From this I'll get the flange design where it meets the block.

I have the transmission side. What I don't have is the bell side without pulling my transmission.

That's a great solution. Not everyone can do it though, so I'm going to finish and then publish here the drawings for the adapter plate. Not trying to make anything off it, just want one for me, and once it's drafted...why not share?

Like all my projects, this will move at the speed of a married man.

To answer the lingering question, yes, if I could buy one, I would simply buy the AoK intake. I'm not trying to steal anything from Tim and George. They just don't have them to sell anymore. This would cost a lot more than $650 if I had t pay for the work, but I don't

Well, I am of course going to use them on my 230 engine, but Langdon (now sold via 12bolt.com) doesn't sell the flanges. I went looking for flanges, but couldn't find an exact fit. The best measurements I get are these use a 3.2" space flange for 5/16-14 bolts. Seems all the 2" flanges I could find all have 3.25" spacing, and it's for 3/8 bolts. I figured the extra dia would make up the spacing, and it does, but the flanges were pathetic in my opinion, with very little material compressing the gasket...if you can find one that fits.

A common theme you might have noticed, is that I can and will design my own solutions, when I can't get what I want. So, I did. Here is a picture of why I did this. Now these flanges were only about $4.50 each and shipping was reasonable...but.

IMHO, I can do better...so I did. I designed a flange that exactly(ish) matches the outline of the manifold flange, and it 2" ID. The holes are spaced exactly with a lose clearance fit for 5/16-14 bolts. I did a 3/8" flange thickness also. They were about $38 shipped to my door (2 each).

My intent is the use a grinder to size and cleanup the manifolds so I have a 1/2 depth at 2". They measure around 1.9" right now. I'm going to break the edge all around the perimeter a bit also. The reason is, I'm going to use donut gaskets.

I'll weld pipe so it sticks through the flanges and goes into the 1/2 deep pocket. I'll put the donut around the pipe, and when I tighten the bolts, it will begin to extrude/deform the donut gasket into the manifold. We do this exact thing on Harley shovelheads to eliminate gasket failures. I haven't changed a gasket on my 79 FLH is oh, maybe 15 years.

The new flanges ship on Monday, so once I get them I can bolt them in place and use them as a template to scribe a line on the manifolds. What could be more fun?

Since I can't buy one, and the Offy design is inferior, I've decided to do a clone of the AoK type dual carb intake for the 23 inch block. I have the Offy, but the design is kind of crappy. The passageways are squat, not the best shape or finish and the transitions, well they suck too.

I'm trying to get some cad drawings of the engines, but I'm not waiting for that. I took my Offy and screwed it down over some wet cardboard on my work bench. I'm just trying to get the flange outlines as well as the exact(ish) hole placements. With that I can start to model my design.

Once I have a nice impression, I did BTW outline the flanges with a pencil, I can draw a grid over the whole thing and start transferring coordinates to the 2D drawing. If you aren't familiar with 3D modeling, at least in Solidworks, you start with a 2D and then extrude the thickness. That's how I'll get the flanges and their locations.

This is a long term project, so I will come back as I make progress and update the thread.

I'm going to use some heavy wall 2" OD aluminum pipe for the majority of the intake and transfer plenum, then I'll use the 2" OD cast aluminum elbows to go from the tube, to each intake port. I could just cut up the Offy to use it's flanges, they would work fine, but I paid $350 for the intake and they are selling for $500 today. Might as well sell it.

I don't know for sure whether the clutch housing in my truck is a 46, or came with the 58 D100 engine that is in it. I had the original engine and it had a housing on it. I gave all that to another member here. I'll have to see if there is enough exposed housing to get an idea how much material is around the trans mating surface. I've only just found that there were several even after the starter position change. Go figure. I understand there is more than one input shaft, and they have different lengths.

When AoK was selling the adapter plates, you used a specific trans and the thickness of the adapter went into all that. What trans are you using Ken that bolts up the the clutch housing face?

Is the 60 housing different than late 50's?

None of this is going to happen quickly. I'm an engineer, so things like this are fun for me and I like to model/draft as much as I can before I ever get started in the physical world.

Right now, my truck is running fine and the compression isn't bad. Not brand new, but OK for now and the oil pressure is good. I'm just going to drive it for now. I need to save money.

But, I do want to rebuild the engine. I've been looking into a machine shop in San Diego to do the block and crank. All part of the planning stage.

I plan on cross drilling the crank and having the bearings grooved to improve oiling to the spots that weren't great from the factory. I do like to over build the bottom end of my engines, so this will get done. The engine will be built to reliably go to 5000RPM over and over, even if I never do that.

I have the Langdon (Fenton copy) manifolds. I'm going to build my own dual carb intake, a copy of the AoK intake...since I can't buy one of those anymore and the Offy one I have is basically crap. I'm going to have my cam reground using one of the profiles Tim Kingsbury shared. Not too aggressive, but an upgrade. The 58 motor already has higher compression, so I'm not going to take anything out of the block or head. Can't afford forged piston, so cast is fine, especially at the relatively low RPM of these engines. With those exceptions, it will pretty much be a stock build

It should last as long as I do, and make enough power to get out of peoples way. I'm going to change from 3.55 to 3.73 gears, with the OD trans I think that's a better place to be. I want to upgrade to a posi carrier and the larger 97 and up axles anyway in my Jeep rear end.

After all that, it's just cosmetics and enjoying my truck.

Rebuild, but I need to save for that. It can be 130 for my year motor, so it's OK, but not great.