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Posts posted by lostviking

  1. I got the Langdon linkage in the mail a couple days ago. Like I thought, a lot of it will be pretty useful to me, just not a bolt on. I used some mounting tabs I had from one of my Harleys and was able to get the main rod mounted with the two rod ends it mounts on. Then the arms and linkage to the carbs. It's all just mock up, but I can open the two carbs by moving the longer arm that goes down to the linkage from the pedal. I'll take a picture, but it's not the end design yet.


    There is a place online called send cut send dot com. They do laser metal cutting with a pretty decent minimum cost of $29. I'm going to design what I need, the order from them. I'll post the end design and cost information in case anyone is interested later.

  2. Thanks, but I am still using the stock leafs, 1.75 inch. I cut some 1/4 inch plate at work and located the holes on a mill with a DRO and a center drill. Then, since I only have a small amount of time to work there (I am not a machinist, I'm an engineer), I finished the holes at home using my carbide bits and a hand drill. It takes a bit.


    I won't be using them permanently because I found some online for around $8 plus shipping. I just don't want to wait for delivery...so I'll get the rear end placed and the angle done using these. I'll only tack weld the mounts. The plate I used was part of a full floater kit I've had for a lot of years. I used a band saw to use the sides off with the 3 inch semi-circles. I'll use them to make some new shock mounts and weld them in place on the tube.


    I'll take some pictures later. Right now it's all talk :)


    Some of this has been design on the fly. I didn't measure the old tubes and they were smaller. I was originally planning on using the cast plates that go under the springs and had the shock mount on them. That didn't go well last night, so I've had to adapt.

  3. On 9/20/2021 at 7:05 AM, Lingle said:

    I removed a few leaf springs from my B3F.  what I did was clamp the springs together, then cut the bolt/nut/rivet that holds the leaf pack together.  the cross bolts that go between the ears I also removed those.  to re-assemble I used a allen bolt and nut to fasten the pack back together, made new steel spacers for the cross bolt locations and drilled new holes given the spring pack changes for those cross bolts.  not overly clear here but you can see the nut at the top and barely see the lower bolt head I ground down to fit in the mating hole on the leaf spring perch.


    i kept the springs that had the vertical U cross bolt mounts.  I went from a 10 leaf pack down to 6 to start.  well actually it was a 10 + 4 overload, but the overloads were a separate unit all together so easily removed.



    Where did you pick up those top plates? I'm fabricating some, but I'd rather have a set that have the bent edges. I can radius the edge....but....



  4. Got out there and pulled the old axle today. Didn't get the new one placed, because I screwed up and bought 2" perches, and the truck needs 1.75". Those will be here tomorrow.


    Here are some pictures of today...sitting on my motorcycle jack under the truck.





    under the truck small.jpg


    I'd like to remove a few leafs, but I'm not entirely sure how. Anyone?


    The old axle and old front brakes. Be a darn shame if I have to dump them at the wrecking yards, but if nobody wants them that is where they will end up. That rebuilt transmission in the background is also headed that way. Too bad, they are all serviceable.



    old stuff small.jpg

    old axle small.jpg

  5. 19 hours ago, Young Ed said:

    Ok am I missing something? Earlier in the thread we're using metric to sae adapters and then later it sounds like 3/16 fits. 

    3/16 tube. The master cylinder has M10x1 fittings on it. That's the only metric. I fixed that with an adapter to 3/8-24 female double flair fittings...and like the OP, I'm using 3/16 Nicop brake line.

  6. 14 hours ago, PT81PlymouthPickup said:

    I'm curious about your calipers. Might just be my memory fading, but yours look different from the ones I installed last year on my 1939 pickup using a Scarebird kit. I used calipers for 1990 S-10 4WD having a 2.48" bore. Perhaps different manufacturer? I used AC-Delco. Would appreciate knowing what you used if they are different.

    That is still what it says on the website, but the installation instructions changed it to a Chevy Celebrity caliper. They seemed to fit properly and lined up correctly on centerline with the rotor.

  7. You can see the old front brakes in that first shot. I need to get rid of those. Too bad if they end up at the salvage yard. They were in good working order, just wanted disks.


    I'm done for this weekend, but next I'll yank the old rear end and get the new one placed. The old one is probably going to end up at the salvage yard also. Too bad.


    I've been buying some of the Cherokee parking brake brackets, at least the ones I can find. Same with the front cable. I'll use that as a starting point and fabricate what I need to hook the original handle up to the rear axle. When I'm doing the rear, I'll be removing the stock setup on the rear of the transmission. I will keep that so if I get rid of BOTH OF THE 3 SPEED TRANSMISSIONS I HAVE, I'll have it to send along to their new homes.

  8. Fronts are "installed" but not plumbed. I'll be doing that complete from a new master cylinder to both ends of the truck.


    I have the old mounts removed and the tubes are ready to have something welded to them.



    old mounts gone small.jpg


    The old stuff is serviceable, but I will rebuild it all. I've got new everything, but the wheel cylinders are not leaking and I'm going to put it into the truck with just the new drums installed. Then I can back it into the driveway and have a bit of room to work.


    serviceable small.jpg

  9. Finished the basic install on the other side, took a shower too :)


    Here is a shot of the truck on it's tires, after the install....I'll edit to add one of before so you can see the relative location of the wheels. Remember, I used a 1-1/4 inch wheel adapter also.



    On the tires small.jpg



    This is the only side view I had, I cropped it and messed with the light to make the shadow go away near the wheel.



    side view small.jpg


    Doesn't really look different to me from these shots, but the wheel is outboard a bit more.

  10. Moving on...with the rotors machined, I put them on. Normally you just use a couple nuts to hold the rotor while you get the caliper/pads installed, but in my case I used my wheel adapters.



    rotor and caliper front small new.jpg


    I didn't take a picture until I had the caliper installed...here's the only two bolts you needed to touch on the rear.



  11. Got the rotors machined and put one on after work today, just to be sure...put the wheel adapter on also. I'll take some more pictures tomorrow (Saturday) and finish the drivers side. I'll post the pictures when I'm done and then get the passenger side done.

    I've got the new master cylinder to install, and I bought some Nicopp brake line and a proportioning valve that I need to get installed also. Busy day. But the front will be done. The rear end come next, but I can at least bleed the front brakes and check all that out.

    Nice to get that part done and put the truck back on it's wheels. Especially nice that it will be the stock ones with those nice shinny hub caps I polished to mirrors.

    Cya tomorrow.

  12. 1 hour ago, Rocket-bob said:

    3/16 nicop line, with SAE flares.  I replaced all hard brake lines as I replaced the rear axle with a ‘90 Cherokee rear axle (8.25 Chrysler). I simply used adapters to hook into the stock (but new) flexible brake lines. Hydraulics don’t care about line size just about whether those lines are full of fluid. 

    Thanks, do you know the size of the fitting that screwed into the master cylinder? I'm not sure what Toyotomo uses.

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