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lostviking

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Posts posted by lostviking

  1. 1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

    How was your experience with SCS?  I looked into them and my dxf that was in inches they said was in mm?

    You should make sure that the scaling of the DXF export is correct, it does happen. I usually dimension the drawings also. Keep any issues like that from happening, because they have the dimensions I say it is right in the drawing. The only problem I had was in the first part I sent them, I sent a top and side view, as I would most vendors. They sent me both parts :)

  2. I just ordered this master cylinder,

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10960916&cc=1089020&pt=1836&jsn=13

     

    It's for disk/drum on a 1975 Dodge Dart. It has a four bolt mount, so I'm going to build a .250 thick plate of steel and adapt the stock three bolt to that. I'll use some flathead screws to secure the plate to the truck, and put four flathead screws into the plate, facing the master to act as studs. I'll weld the heads in place to keep them from turning.

     

    I'll let you know how it goes.

  3. I took the second carb apart today, and took another 40 or so hi-res pictures. This one was the dirty one, but inside it was in great shape. Not a bit of corrosion, so it's a good rebuild core. The bowl area in the first one had zinc oxide in places, especially the accel bore.

     

    The only defect is the throttle shaft has nearly .010 of play, so it's going to need to be bushed. I may take the bottom off the first carb and use it on this one. That way I'd have one nearly perfect one. We'll see.

     

     

    all apart 2nd.jpg

    no corrosion 2nd.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. I have zero leaks, because all the fittings were correct and the flares were textbook. I have a pressure bleeder, so that isn't an issue either. I've repeated the bleeding a couple times. I do get a firm pedal, but it's much longer of a push that I believe it should be, in fact a partial push and release with a quick second push put the pedal near the top. Changing the bore diameter of a master cylinder is well known to affect these things. It's a simple matter of PSI and volume.

     

    Other than the similar flange, I don't really like the Toyo master. I prefer a nice cast metal master with two separate chambers for fluid. Unless someone used the same 95 Jeep Cherokee rear, to get the same wheel cylinders, and used the same Scarebird conversion (and same calipers), the results are apples and oranges.

     

     

  5. I've done it using the Toyo master, but did disk brakes up front and drums in the rear. I used a PV2 proportioning valve, and also added residual valves. I added the residual valves because I'm not really happy with how it all is working. There is a lot of pedal travel for one, and the rear brakes don't lock hard.

     

    I'm planning on swapping in a Dodge master cylinder in the near future, and just adapting it to the mounting locations. That will also answer the question of which is front and which is rear the Los brought up. Don't know which one yet, but something dual circuit and no power brakes. I'll do a thread when I get to that. I'm hoping it will make my brakes work more like they should. Having the wrong size bore in your master cylinder leads to either too much pedal effort of too long of a travel. Maybe to the point of having to pump the brake pedal more than once.

  6. I actually took pictures with a digital camera. I used an older one, since my hands were dirty, but the auto-focus kind of sucked. I also have a very nice Nikon DSLR, so I took a bunch of pictures of the second one today. They have great focus, so I did think of that. Old eyes and a small screen didn't let me know the focus on the first disassembly pictures were so bad.

     

    What I have are detail pictures of it assembled, showing everything I didn't have a clear shot of today. But I'll be going very slowly on the disassembly and stopping often to clean my hands, so I can use the good camera and look at the pictures. I'll be using two light sources also to make sure there aren't any shadows hiding details I need. Then I'm going to expand on the Carter rebuild guide, with nicer pictures and better detailed instructions. I write assembly instructions as a part of my day job, so I'll have a pretty good one when I'm finished. I'll convert it to PDF and share it in case it will help anyone.

     

    Here is an example, although I didn't use the two lights for this one, just the camera flash.

    DSC_0015 small.jpg

    • Like 1
  7. I put the first carb back together today. It was a very good idea NOT to take the second one apart, and have it as an example. Every YouTube video I found for Carter WA-1 carbs didn't look exactly the same as mine. Both of mine are identical, but the metering rod and accelerator pump linkage was different in the online videos. I have a copy of a 1939 Carter rebuild guide also, but it isn't very good, or detailed. I definitely stumbled and had to back up...more than once. But it's together and everything seems to move and such correctly. Comparing the two, everything is again the same.

     

    I used the second as a guide to get some of the adjustments "close" I hope. We'll see once I put them on my truck and try to make them work. At least it's clean, and has all new gaskets. Some of the brass jets and needles in the kit were not used, because there was no visible wear on the old ones. I'll keep all that.

     

     

    DSC00083.JPG

    • Like 1
  8. Was able to hook the little "air brushing" wand up to my main compressor today. I hoped with full air pressure, and even a bit too high, it would work. It did not. Even using the supplied media it didn't take off most of the zinc oxide deposits. Those are very small on the piece I tried, but I'm going to have to use small brushes to clean the surfaces.

     

    It was so cheap, I'm not returning the air brush. I'll use it to touch-up the paint on the truck so I don't have to mix a bunch of paint and toss it. Easier to clean up also. I guess that makes it not a total waste of money. I wish I could have the soda blaster I used in the corrosion control shop when I was in the Navy. IT removed crap like this. Oh well, manual it is then I'll finish the first carb.

     

    I'll get some before and after pictures of the second one so you can see how well the ultra sonic/Zep works.

  9. In my mind, the hardest part for DIY is the hub. Once you have that all you need to do is put a rotor on it and a caliper. If you pressurize the caliper, it will locate for you. Point the bleed up in a location that doesn't hit anything, then make a mounting plate to hold it there. I would def do it in steel, but I've never seen one that wasn't a flat plate.

  10. Well, I doubt it's aluminum, when most carbs are zinc, and to get a nice chromate finish, you need fresh zinc. Any stains in the surface would damage the finish. Not every YouTube video is showing you all the information needed.

     

    I had oral surgery last week to repair bone damage in my jaw from a failed "fake tooth" the Navy put in...40 years ago. So I'm not been making any real progress while I get back to sort of normal. 3 months for the bone graft to heal, then drill and screw in a stud, 3 more months, then the final "tooth". Gonna be a long summer.

     

    I'll see about getting some pictures. I'm trying to hook my real air compressor up to the soda blaster because a little tire inflator can't keep up. I think that's why the thing kept clogging. The orifice is ceramic, so no drilling it out. Tomorrow.

  11. I'd suggest looking at the picture in the part manual for the proper installation of the rod. Mine has full throttle, and matches the pictures for a 1946. Perhaps they changed it in the 48 and up. Does it connect to the top of the pedal (46 does) or the bottom?

     

    Either way the parts manual is cheap and it has pictures.

  12. OK, that was pretty impressive for a household cleaner. I mixed it 1:1 with water and heated it to 50C. I'd say most if not all of the crud is gone. I'm not reassembling the carb today, because I still want to soda blast some zinc oxide on a few surfaces. I hope "fixing" the orifice allows me to use the soda blaster. If not, I've got some small brushes for my Dremel. I will just need to keep the speed very low to void any damage.

     

    Not a bad day.

  13. OK, back at it today...I bought this airbrush that is specifically supposed to be used as a media blaster: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNAH06?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details.

     

    Orifice is too small to use baking soda, so I question the usefulness. It clogs immediately. Removing the orifice from the nozzle and it doesn't have enough velocity to clean and just pours the soda out. I'm going to take the orifice to work and drill it out some. Maybe.

     

    In the mean time, I've bought some Zep citris cleaner. I've fill the ultra sonic cleaner 1:1, which is for medium crud, and I'm heating it to 50C right now. I'll give it 30 minutes and then rinse. We'll see how that works. People swear by the Zep online, so I'm hoping. This is the clean carb, so there isn't much to remove.

     

    I'll let you know.

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