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Sam Buchanan

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Posts posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. 2 hours ago, 48ply1stcar said:

    Great now I can do something else before I finish the other stuff I started.


    Sorry 'bout that.......    😆


    To make this even simpler, the cable housing really isn't necessary. A bare length of wire would work fine since the release only has to function one time.

  2. 35 minutes ago, MarcDeSoto said:

    All of this glass is readily available on Ebay for $50 for the driver glass.  I had to replace the glass for the driver door on my 48 DeSoto, so I first went to a local glass shop and they said they needed an original to copy, and it would be about $250!  So I looked on Ebay  and they had one for just $45!  It's now gone up to $50.  I bought it and it was a perfect fit.  I don't see a front door glass right now on Ebay, just rear glass and other panels, and a complete kit.  But they probably haven't updated their Ebay ads in a while.   So I would email them and say you just want the driver door glass and the vent window.  




    I checked with them, $75+ by the time they ship it. I don't need the vent glass. These internet vendors seem to know what their compadres are charging.....seems ~$75-80 is the going rate for a door glass by the time it lands on your doorstep.

  3. 1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:


    ....Vintage Glass if you wish to look up a local jobber in your area.......they do cut safety glass to NAG patterns....


    Appreciate the referral but no locations in my state. Their price is the same as what I'm paying with the other vendor....$75 seems to be the going rate for flat door glass delivered from well-equipped vendors. Bernbaum has similar catalog price but adds large shipping fees and long delivery time.

  4. Yep, I was planning on supporting the only glass shop I could find within 25 miles of me that would cut laminated glass until I was quoted $175 for the one window and told the corners might not match my original.


    I ordered the glass from Sanders Reproduction Glass and even though it has to be shipped all the way across the continent total cost is $76. Hope it fits....and that I don't break it....

  5. I'm pretty sure a hot generator will produce less current due to increased resistance of the wire in the windings. So I think you will lose genny capacity as you add load and heat (electrical and ambient). Most likely you'll be running a current deficit with all the lights on especially at low rpm. It may take a while to pull a healthy battery down, but the lights won't be full bright....and the starter may be sluggish after the ice cream stop.


    But fortunately there is a very nice remedy that will pull anything you can install on your car....and keep the battery happy.  😉

  6. The hood release inside the cabin is a nice touch on my '48, but I've often wondered how in the world would I release the hood if something broke in the release cable. The front of the car is pretty much assembled from the inside out and releasing a captive hood, though no doubt possible, would be a major aggravation. 


    I decided a belt and suspenders approach could alleviate this unfortunate scenario. Here is a little shop project that won't take more than an hour but could prevent many hours of frustrations. All we need is an emergency hood release.


    The release is a short length of flex cable, a handle made out of a piece of tubing and a bug nut.





    The cable has a Z-bend on one end which fits in a small hole drilled in the hood release latch. The other end of the cable goes through the inner left front fender:





    Here is the release handle inside the inner fender, completely out of the way until it needs to save the day:




    The release works flawlessly.....and a kidnapped hood latch will no longer be on my "Awwwh SHOOT!" list.  😄


  7. 1 hour ago, Eneto-55 said:


    Maybe I should have asked "Who proof-read these?"  I didn't say it that way, but I was also wondering about the manuals being produced now - Are there experienced mechanics, engineers, etc., in on the proof-reading process, or do they just put a bunch of office staff on a work-group to write up this stuff.  The question behind the question is whether the persons doing the compilation are familiar with the topics they are writing about, or are they just referring to other materials they have at their disposal?  


    But yes, possibly no longer living.  My father-in-law is going to be 99 in August, so to him, a person who was 25 in 1950 would still be younger than him.  But I imagine that they pasted in stuff from previous issues as much as possible, so once an error found its way into a manual, it would be republished various times.  But I also doubt if they had the engineers writing or proof-reading repair manuals.  My point was just that now, all these years later, we look to these manuals as "proof" of the true answer to our questions, and now that I find errors, I wonder what else is incorrect.  (By the way, I'm pretty certain that my copy of this manual is an original.  I don't have any other original MoPar manuals, just some Motor Manuals from this same era.  All of the rest of the MoPar manuals I have are either from downloads from this site, or from some other private & on-line sources.)


    I mis-spoke, the two manuals I have are both originals best I can tell.




    The only ones I've seen lately are just scans of these old manuals, so there is no "proof-reading" occurring. But these are exceedingly simple cars that are much more tolerant of "shade-tree" engineering than the computers we drive today.  Fortunately the superb Master Tech films are still available for download.   :)

  8. 14 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

    New meaning for the MoPar Manual Blues ....


    Who writes these?!


    The question should be "Who wrote these?".


    The manuals I have are reproductions of manuals that were published in the early '50's. That means the authors are almost certainly long gone....RIP.

  9. Or you can scab together a tranny cradle out of scraps in the shop that looks wretched but works wonderfully:




    I just put the jack under the transmission while it was still in the car and started adding scraps until the jack cradled the trans. The hole is for that little bump on the bottom of the three-speed. The 2x2 props up the shift housing and keeps the trans from falling off the cradle. Putting the jack in juuust the right place keeps everything balanced.  😁


    And you need guide pins:




    A couple of flats filed on the pins make it easy to use a wrench.

  10. 35 minutes ago, Dennis Detweiler said:

    I got the manifold and engine surface cleaned up and ready for re-assembly. I removed the valve covers and was surprised to find the inside free of sludge. Just clean oil laying in the low areas. Valve springs look good. Next, check and set valve clearances before putting it all back together. The shop book gives two sets of clearance numbers, one for hot and one for cold.


    Congratulations...you have jumped one of the most dreaded hurdles we have when it comes to refreshing our flatties.  😄

  11. 2 hours ago, derbydad276 said:

    I recently swapped out my rear axle on my 53 from 3.90 gear s to 3.55.... previously 50 mph was the sweet spot ... now its 60 mph ...

    when I finally get a Over Drive trans ... 70 mph will be easy 


    But the brakes won't be any better.......    😃

  12. 3 hours ago, Dennis Detweiler said:

    The lower center intake manifold bolt was only finger tight. Both manifolds are off. The split manifold is not a true split. It's just has two outlets. The weld has a crack on one side, but I'll be installing a stock single exhaust manifold. I drilled out the 3 broken bolts that connect the two manifolds together and have them re-tapped. One of the two center exhaust manifold bolts broke off and has about a 1/2 inch stub. I have it soaking and will try to move it back and forth tomorrow.

    Go head and buy the stud extractor.......don’t mangle the stud with vice grips to where the extractor can’t get a good grip.



  13. 2 hours ago, Doug&Deb said:

    I had a problem yesterday with the engine cutting out under acceleration. This was after about 100 miles of mountain driving in hot weather. The indicated temp was about 200 degrees each time. I’m just starting to diagnose the problem. Once the temp went down the problem stopped. 


    Low fuel pressure due to vapor lock?

  14. 57 minutes ago, NickPickToo said:

    Not sure it's a linkage issue.  The front lever on the transmission closest to the engine (moves when shifter is rotated) is working fine, shifting into three positions.  The rear lever moves when the shifter is lifted up and down.  Even when the linkage is disconnected and I move it manually, its not really shifting.  It moves with little or no resistance.  Is there a common issue with this lever that could be causing this.  I did notice when we were working on the transmission that the attachment point for this specific lever had a tendency to want to fall into the casing /  housing.  Perhaps something internal slipped out of place? 


    The shift housing is easy to remove, just follow the manual procedure. That will allow you to determine if something is out of whack in the housing.


    You should find this recent thread an interesting read:



  15. 33 minutes ago, DJK said:

    Just to clarify, with stock points ignition, solid copper wires should be used? With Pertronics or electronic ignition, non-copper wires should be used?

    Points are fine with either, resistive core wire is usually needed if you have a radio to eliminate RFI noise.

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