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Sam Buchanan

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Posts posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. 16 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

    And it is cheaper to go 12V then stay 6V ... IMHO

     

     

    I'm not following the cheaper to go 12v unless you are referring to the incredibly complicated system the original poster is describing.

     

    Less than $150 for a new 6v alternator and nothing on the car has to be changed. I would, however, upgrade to the proper 6v battery and starter cables if they are not present, that will solve the cold weather starting problems.

     

    battery-cables.jpg.a6d038db0ab055e49f8936293293988a.jpg

  2. 1 hour ago, Ivan_B said:

    How thick is the leather? I am seeing that they use a hidden seam at the strip junction (the way I wanted to go for the entire seam but could not for the leather being too think) and it is bulging out on some of the illustrations on their web side. Yours seems alright, though.

     

    The leather is thin and very high quality, much like a fine pair of driving gloves.

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtLlReasVwo

  3. A source for a leather wheel cover that I used for the TR6 is Wheelskins. It is custom cut for a particular wheel and I was impressed with the quality and fit. It has been in service for three years and looks as good as new.

     

    Wheelskins

     

    It appears they can make about any size cover, just need to supply the dimensions of the wheel. The TR6 wasn't listed in their stock but the cover they made per my measurements fit perfectly.

     

    image.jpeg.53522fb95c6b110b22a7e46ac9c173f0.jpeg

     

    • Like 1
  4. 31 minutes ago, Dave72dt said:

    Basically voltage in versus voltage out.  A switch may have continuity but lack the capacity to transmit full voltage to the load it controls.  

     

    Often caused by severely degraded contacts. This is the same principle we see when trying to use 12v battery cables on a 6v system...the small cables will show continuity but not provide sufficient capacity to flow the current needed to operate the starter. Continuity and current capacity are two different functions. Voltage drop is a signature of reduced circuit capacity.

  5. 1 hour ago, Ivan_B said:

    The rod tip was probably brazed with soft metal for good seal, at the factory, but it ain't good anymore. Sealing that part up is pretty much the standard step during service, I think.

     

    No, it is a hardened steel shaft with a drive fit in the transmission case......when all the components are fresh.

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, Ivan_B said:

    Oh, the good-old counter-shaft rod? Yes, that got to be sealed individually :)

     

    The shaft isn't supposed to require any sealing, at original assembly it was a press fit into the case. But it seems that in my tranny 75 years of service has loosened that fit enough for oil to leak past the shaft. The "plug" I made with a penny has been working well so far. The leak was obvious when I had the transmission leveled on the bench and filled with oil.

  7. 1 hour ago, Sniper said:

     

    For $43 I bought this.  It does everything you need it to do for automotive electrical work.  Including dwell and tach,  How cheap do you want to get? 

     

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    I bought a different "brand" of that meter and the dwell function didn't work, was really hoping it would, the price was right. Guess I got a bad one.

  8. When in doubt go to the manufacturer's website. :)

     

    https://www.powerprobe.com/na/en/product-list/content/308EbfcE6f63

     

    Measures 0-70 vdc.

     

    Seems a bit pricey ($150) to me for the very simple troubleshooting we do on our cars. This is what I use:

     

    https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html

     

    I don't even bother replacing the battery, just throw the meter away and get another one for $7. I have several of these scattered around in various vehicles.

     

    59434_W3.jpg

  9. 21 minutes ago, Doug&Deb said:

    I’m not trying to talk you out of converting to 12 volt but I’m wondering if getting everything working as designed first would help. At least you can enjoy the car for a while and decide if you want to convert. It would also give you time to research and gather the necessary parts. Search the technical archives on this site as well. Several members have done this conversion successfully and you can get some ideas. Good luck.

     

    I agree. I also am wondering about your reasons for wanting to convert to 12v. A conversion makes adding modern accessories such as sound systems easier, but a properly sorted out 6v system works very well. Get the car roadworthy on 6v then you can make an informed decision about whether or not a change to 12v is justified.

    • Like 2
  10. 1 hour ago, desoto1939 said:

    I talked to the sales and also manager in the Autozone to inform them of the non compatibility of Dot 5 and Dot 5.1.  They even did not know this information.

     

    Most likely they don't care...................see above post about being a slave to the database..........

  11. 28 minutes ago, silverh20 said:

    Thanks! I bought it after someone spent 3 years restoring it inside and out, then it changed hands 2 times before becoming mine, no maintenance done by the 2 priors. I'm used to working on my 2004 BMW's straight 6 but I know nothing about these flatheads, yet..

     

    I found a glass fuel filter in a box of old parts given to me with the car, I wonder if it's spare, or if it was swapped with the plastic one for having issues. Either way, I don't like the sound of an engine bay fire so I'll get to that ASAP!

     

    Where do you guys like to get new head gaskets from? 

     

    An easy filter fix is one of the metal filters commonly found in your local auto parts emporium. I would mount it near the fuel pump outlet so it would be below the exhaust manifold in the remote chance it developed a leak.

     

    Here is your first purchase!!!

     

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=382

     

    Rock Auto has the head gasket:

     

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=121713&cc=1349917&pt=5412&jsn=416

     

    Also your friendly NAPA can help you out:

     

    https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPGHS7564C

     

    These flatties were produced in various flavors up to about 1970, often used in fork lifts, farm equipment, stationary pumps, etc. Check the mainstream suppliers first then you can use the specialty  vendors when necessary.

    • Like 1
  12. The engine sounds good! However, the idle is set way too high, these engines will tick over like a sewing machine at 400-500 rpm.

     

    Also....please get rid of the the plastic fuel filter! When that thing gets brittle, cracks and sprays fuel due to proximity to the exhaust manifold you will have a serious fire hazard.

     

    And yes, it looks like you are due a head gasket.

    • Like 3
  13. 2 hours ago, Sniper said:

    Since they smell, look and taste different it's be hard to confuse oil for coolant.  I have a similar issue at #4, no idea where it is coming from, maybe the oil bath air cleaner.

     

    I was seeing some random oil on the head, it went away after converting to a paper filter in the original filter housing. I don't know how oil was escaping the filter but it must happen occasionally.

  14. 12 minutes ago, Sniper said:

     

     

    One fallacy in your meme,  GL1 isn't cheaper.  My transmission is 73 years old, I think GL1 has proven itself and I am in no mood to experiment. 

    Net time you have gear crunch drain your ATF and put in gear oil.  Bet it goes away, btdt.  So much for "better". 

     

    As for the rest of your meme's claims. 

     

    Disc brakes are better.

    Electric fans save fuel and allow more of your of the flathead's meager hp to hit the road.

    Electronic ignitions are better.

     

    I saw the meme not as passing judgment on disk brakes, etc but as observing how some will insist on the "purity" of something like old-school lubricants while sanctioning upgrades to other components of their car. I thought the meme was amusing and to-the-point......well played.  :)

    • Like 1
  15. 21 minutes ago, Booger said:

    I suppose we need not worry about the simplicity of plain ol 30w motor oil anymore. Cuz ya cant find it. (lest not Yalmart no mo)

     

    Not much reason to use straight 30W, 10W-30 is an excellent option readily available and reasonably priced. It has the same viscosity as straight 30W when hot but makes cold starts easier when it is similar to 10W. But 30W is still available, just takes a bit of effort (or place an order on Amazon).

     

     

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