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Everything posted by Faulkner

  1. Can you provide the URL for "Tod's site", please?
  2. OK, just one more question, then: This pertains to both ends, correct? Both bushings on each shock should be reamed to 11/16"?
  3. Did you use 37187, then? Drilling rubber is easy - so, you recycled your old sleeves after you reamed the rubber bushings, along with the hardware? And the rubber bushing length matched that of the old, so there was no play (or tightness)?
  4. ...and I appreciate the help, Bryan! When it's up on the lift, though, I don't want to deal with returns (or, modifications), so unless I can be convinced something will fit beforehand, I'll probably end up going with Andy Bernbaum (i.e., Chris Paquin). Twenty bucks more per shock, but I'm playing it safe.
  5. Newbie alert: I've never replaced shocks. But I need help understanding something... It appears that the 37187 comes with a bolt that fits the ID of the sleeve. So why does the ID of the sleeve - or, bushing - matter? Isn't it the dimension of (both ends of) the bolt that matters, where I presume it fits into the frame of the car? Oh wait... Is it because you need two bolts?
  6. That eBay ad shows the part number as 5752ST. FWIW, Summit identifies it as the same part as 5752. So eBay says it fits, but Amazon says it doesn't. My suspicion is that Amazon is correct, with Sniper's info corroborating. Rock Auto does not indicate that a 5752 is the correct P/N either; in fact, they have no part available for the front shock.
  7. Here's what Amazon reports, Bryan... Sniper, did you compare the extended length of your old shock with these? Is that how you know they're short?
  8. For 17 bucks apiece, I can get Gabriel shocks (P/N 81469) for the rear of my Suburban. But Gabriel does not offer front shocks; Monroe offers neither front, nor rear. Mother MoPar's P/N for the front is 1450 629. For ~55 bucks apiece, I can get front shocks from Bernbaum, Roberts and the like. Before I go that route: Has anyone found an acceptable substitute, that's more on the order of 17 bucks? -Dan
  9. Correct, that's the battery location. Any 6V battery will do? When I replaced the 6V in my '54 Suburban, the one I got at AutoZone was considerably shorter than the one it replaced. So I know there's at least two sizes/types! I was hoping to pick up the battery before I got to his house. The last thing I want to have happen, is to buy it, get there, and find it doesn't fit.
  10. In a couple of weeks, I'll be visiting a friend with a '36 Touring, siphoning out the old gas after clearing the fuel pump and gas line, and hoping to get it started with fresh gas. He suspects it will need a new 6V battery. Is there an equivalent available at Autozone or PepBoys? What to ask for? Thanks Dan
  11. Rich, as Ken points out above - my particular pump is agnostic with regard to polarity. It will work regardless of which lead is grounded. I intend to test this (by holding the leads to the battery, then swapping them), but I can believe it.
  12. Rich, do you mean, both pumps are always running, with the expectation that the electric will pick up should the mechanical fail? Or do you switch the electric off? I'm interested in the benefit of the electric pump for starting conditions - i.e., fill the carburetor bowl *before* cranking starts. But if the mechanical is in series with the electrical, might that not act as a flow impediment, depending on the position of the fuel pump arm? That is - will the electric pump push gas through the mechanical pump, regardless of where the cam is when the engine was turned off?
  13. Yup! Thanks Sam. No continuity between the housing and either lead.
  14. I bought this Brock U886-9092 electric fuel pump for my + ground, 6V '54 Plymouth. It came with no instructions, and calling Brock did not help - they can't advise. (!) Has anyone used this pump? I have a couple of questions... 1) What's the doodad I've circled in red - is it a check valve? Does in go on the input side, or the output side of the pump? 2) I was told that it's for either +/- ground - I presume from this, the two wires are isolated from the housing. Can someone confirm? adTHANKSvance, Dan
  15. I've read in this thread that folks add a switch for priming, which they turn off after the car has started. This seems like a reasonable idea to me - wouldn't that obviate the need for a shutoff valve? And, if I place the electrical pump at the tank, would the mechanical pump still draw through the electrical when it's powered off? (I already have power available at the rear anyway, to power a 6-to-12 V converter for my backup camera; I would just add a separate inline fuse - and then run back a wire to ground the pump with a dash switch.)
  16. Sam, I take it that it's not recommended to run a mechanical fuel pump in series with an electric? What is the reason, if not - and if not, where might I get a block-off plate for a 230? adTHANKSvance, Dan
  17. I searched eBay for "hornedata" as a vendor, and for item number 233499416168... No hits. Has he stopped doing business, or is there another connection to him?
  18. I have a '54 Plymouth Plaza Suburban, and a narrow driveway. I really have to crane my neck to ease "Martha" down the drive. I'd love to install a backup camera to use with my iPhone. Are there 6V cameras out there with Bluetooth transmitters, and has anyone adapted one for a positive ground system? (And no, I'm not interested in converting to 12V negative ground.)ThanksDan
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