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CO54

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Posts posted by CO54

  1. 7 hours ago, kencombs said:

    Do you have a pic of the running boards, bottom side?  mine are so rusted that I can't tell how they mounted..  looks like a bracket and captive nuts were once there but now mostly gone.  Some PO had added a 2" wide 1/2" bar front to back along with through bolts, tin and Bondo, lots of bondo!

     

    I'm going to try patching with some stainless I have on hand, then covering that area with rubber.

    Ken, 

    My running boards are in perfect condition. They are currently loosely installed on the truck frame for storage purposes.  I'll try getting them pulled this weekend and getting some pics for you.  It's dark by the time I get home from work. 

  2. 7 hours ago, bkahler said:

     

    I can say with confidence you're delving into an area I know NOTHING about!  

     

    Do you  have a picture of what the repair looked like before you melted all of the lead out?

     

    The picture prior to the puddle on the floor shows the door lead repair in the upright position, I turned it hinge side down to let gravity do the work as it melted.  The dent repair there really isn't to bad.  It's the rust that has my concerns, especially in such tight clearance, complex corners etc. 

  3. Well, I'm still hoping for some input on the rust repairs that are needed. Fortunately, a day off with the MAP gas torch took almost 10#'s of lead off the door. Will be much lighter with a bondo fill instead, after further cleaning and prep is done. 

    y4mrrQzghHfSogtDM6Pgnk_31BkJlI2xJuPI04Zv

    scratch marks are from the torch and paint scraper pulling more off. 

    • Like 1
    • Well, it's been a hot minute since I've updated this build thread. Here's some updates, the steering box rebuild went well, after the teardown and cleaning it went back together without any more binding. Got it all painted and set aside for the time being. Since, then I started moving onto body panels 1 by 1. Cleaning surface rust and repairing large dents after talking with kids n wifey about what they'd like for the finished product, and they agreed to leave any pits from rust or minor dents to stay as long as there's no structural integrity issues. Keeps the character and farm truck history even when it's repainted. We're not after a show truck, just a truck to enjoy. As for body panels completed so far. The inner fender wells have been cleaned, primed and painted black (not original, I know) for a black engine compartment overall. The floor repairs to cab have been completed, the underside of the cab has been primed and sealed with a spray on truck bed liner. The front outer fenders, 3 hood sections, and grill have been cleaned and had major dents repaired to be primed for protection and storage.  Everything with the exception of the cab is getting stored indoors after getting primed with rattle can heavy rusty red primer, all parts will get a rough sand and epoxy primer before paint to ensure total sealing. I've finally hit my 1st worse than thought issue.  The driver side door. I've only started cleaning up the outside and this is what I found hidden under that patina, and an old school body filler. It's clear that I have some rust to cut out and replace with new steel, and that's a point of input that's needed given the locations and my limited skills on intricate body work. The second is the extra weight with the old school "lead bodywork repair", do I torch the lead off and see what's under it and possibly do the repair with bondo? Looking for some input and suggestions. Greatly appreciate you taking the time to read all my rambling and provide feedback.
    • Eric
    • Gonna try to get the pics to upload/link properly.....
  4. Think I found my binding spot today!  2 of the 3 seals arrived and are installed in the main housing. While doing a dry fit with partial seals installed I found this part binding. Suspect a spot of old grease/dirt in there. The darn part I didn't want take apart now, needs tore down for cleaning and inspection. 

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    y4maXRfgqjLJIIj7j3t50Qo6mH0ElX_Ah6chi8o1

     

    I did end up getting an O-ring (kinda fits) from Napa for the bottom part, and ordering gasket maker to cut another grease seal prior to installation.  Still have some concerns with the pitting on the worm gear, but definitely less now what I've verified the binding is coming from. The corn grease arrived too, once I get this bugger marked and tore down, we'll go from there. 

    Thanks. 

    Eric

    • Like 2
  5. Don't have any JB Weld, but do have the POR-15 Epoxy Putty.  Thinking about mixing up a really tiny batch to fill the void and then sand down to as smooth as possible. Will be holding on this until I get the daily driver back up and running.  That's today's project.... 

    I appreciate the input, and conversation.  I'll post with updates as I get into it. 

    Thanks again. 

    Eric

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  6. Opened up steering gear box yesterday after getting some confidence from DrFate77, and a few others that post regularly with an abundance of knowledge.  Prior to opening up, I noticed a rough spot at about 2 turns from a lock to lock of 5 turns.  Soaked some parts overnight in cleaner, and sprayed the rest down with brake clean today.  Found some pitting on the worm gear, but it's not rough or hanging a finger nail or micro fiber cloth. Should I be concerned???  Looking for insight. Truth be told, not wanting to have the ordeal or expense that Bkahler went through on his build with another country.

    Replacement seals for the housing already ordered along with the corn grease, will probably be looking for a universal O-ring for the last seal needed.  

    Thanks.

    Eric

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    Thanks again.

    Eric

  7. On 8/31/2021 at 8:12 PM, DrFate77 said:

    Would it be the Worm Gear cover you're looking at? Sure can't recall, I went back to check my photos but didn't get a good shot of that. I'm pretty sure that everything went back in that came off, with the exception of the paper gaskets. 

    Well, I'll try getting some better pics, I did a test for 24 hours with my gear box and gear oil to verify a leak from the worm gear cover.  I put the shaft at same angle as when mounted in the truck and filled with 90W gear oil (thinner than corn grease), no leaks.  Continued checking and found a rough spot in the rotation at about 2 turns on one direction, when it goes 5 turns on lock to lock.  Will be pulling it apart to inspect and see what's going on. Thanks for your pics and short write up on this style box.  I'll do the same on my thread. 

    Eric

  8. On 3/3/2021 at 5:43 PM, DrFate77 said:

    I noticed a bad grind at a certain spot in the steering action, so I took the steering gear box apart and cleaned everything. The parts diagram makes it look intimidating, but there's only one way it can go together and is actually pretty easy to figure out. I omitted the gaskets, but RTV seems to be doing the job.

     

    FOR POSTERITY - On this Gemmer steering box, casting numbers 348 / 3DCO3:

     

    The pitman arm / side oil seal is a National 240356

    The steering shaft / top oil seal can be a National 470954 - It's not quite as thick, but it's a perfect OD/ID fit and will keep dirt out and oil in. The original seal was unmarked and I spent way too long figuring out what to use. 

     

    IMG_4948.jpg.533654c04b427d16b55070dccf2fbc26.jpg

     

    IMG_4956.jpg.d242b8668fff575e65bf4f0493787ccd.jpg

     

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    IMG_4961.jpg.72a89083eb033485bb1c59fd7ccfa7eb.jpg

     

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    When you pulled the lower plate off with the horn wiring tube/outlet did you find an oil seal, or O-ring in there?  The parts explosion of the gear box shows an "oil seal" on that tube.

     

    My casting #'s are: Gemmer, 2 88, 3DC03. 

  9. Well, I cleaned out the local parts store. They had 1 fitting I needed, and wasn't in the mood to drive all over town. Got the long line on rear axle installed, and ordered a 12 pack of fittings from Amazon, we'll see about the next day shipping since I have tomorrow off.  Once the last hard line is bent and installed, I'm thinking about using the bad MC that's currently installed to try bleeding and checking for leaks prior to final MC install.  Yes, I know I'll have to bleed the lines twice, but would rather get any leaks addressed now, than down the road.  Input on my method of madness?  The bad MC has a bad spring clip for lid retention, that's what makes it bad btw. y4mHLea9XiB5Nm-VfxztQA9eqd2lO8QxlYxs7WTu

     

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    Thanks, 

    Eric

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