55 Fargo

9 minutes ago, 59bisquik said:

Looks great!

It really does make the truck a Hotrod over a farm truck 

5 hours ago, Tooljunkie said:

I like it. And starter is still in the right place!

after doing all the chassis work on mine,i wouldnt go more than a small block dodge in mine. I am suprised how flimsy the frames are. Now that its all behind me, and it runs, i will be on the lookout for another teener. 
 

 

With anything over maybe 250 hp would reinforce frame.

I have no issues with steering and handling if your sane with speed and road conditions.

Even with a frame ir front clip swap, you have old school truck body in collisions.

A good friend if mine had a 59 Dodge swb with hi perf 360 and 4 spd. It was super wild and flex that C channel frame like crazy. But it was deadly quick.

2 hours ago, Old CWO said:

.

The old school 2 bbl surely keeps the simple/reliable vibe going - works fine and lasts a long time.  Nothing to complain about there...

 

Keeping the power a little conservative on an old truck is a wise call; better to be safe than fast.  I think a slant or V6 just isn't quite enough gain over the original plant for the effort involved so a 318 should fill the bill nicely.  I also see that engine as a "gateway" for other potential future upgrades like AC, power steering, etc. if so inclined.

 

It's cool, I dig it.

 

Maybe the old 228 can live on powering a welder, generator, pump, tractor or something?

 

 

Yes, I concur on being "wise" on how much power is limited on non reinforced C channel frame and old suspension.

The suspension if in tip top shape, meaning springs, shackles bushing front end, steering etc. Can no doubt handle a lot more than my 318 can put  out.

But steering and handling on rougher or winding roads will be a handicap Im sure.

I have lots to do yet on this old girl.

Pull all springs, redo bushing and shackles. I may remove 1 spring per pack, to soften and lower truck a bit.

I also plan on a sway bar on both front and rear too.

Will also install 3 link seatbelts, roll cage not necessary...lol

18 minutes ago, Old CWO said:

It looks like it fits in there very nicely.  While I certainly appreciate the flattie, there's nothing wrong with a little more HP/TQ under the hood either.  I like your engine choice:  not a path of least resistance GM, not a gold plated early hemi and not an over the top rumpity cam'd 440.  Simple, reliable and just enough engine for good pep without overpowering the rest of the truck.  Small traditional OHV V8s really can be a great compromise of performance, economy and cool factor.  Not to mention a good dual exhaust on a Mopar small block just flat out sounds great.

 

Any future plans of EFI or staying tried and true with the carb?

No will either stay with BBD 2 bbl or possibly 340 intake or aftermarket with small 4 bbl carb.

The beauty is I could pull this and go 360/727 if i so felt inclined. At this point its plenty of power for stock suspension and brakes...

3 hours ago, Jim G said:

Heresy!!! (OK now that's out of the way ) Glad you stuck with mopar powerplant, and given where we live (I'm next door to you in the easy to draw province) it's nice to have a reliable vechicle if you want to go any distance. And now if you break down parts are a lot easier to find and get back on the road.

I agree on roadside issues and parts.

Truck is quite quick and gets to 70 plus mph rather quickly.

It cruises along beautifully at 65 mph and fuel economy is or seams better than a flathead 6 is.

Because this engine was a 1986 LA series it was a "Lean Burn" setup.

I converted it to pre lean burn, ignition, fuel system and no emissions except a PCV setup.

I did change out exhaust manifolds, in doing this I tapped and plugged smog holes on each head.

The heads are a cast"302" type heart shaped CC. Its higher in compression too at 160 to 170 per cyl.

Its a whole different animal now...

On 9/1/2020 at 7:55 PM, '47 dodge 1.5 ton said:

 Yes, I am looking for the specifications for lift & profile as not ready to purchase one at this time. I bought this truck in the spring that was not running, got it going and the motor is weak. I have future plans to change the motor after I finish other mechanical issues. I have never worked on any Mopars of this vintage and am really enjoying this project so far, some of these items are a real challenge to find. Thanks again for any help! Kevin  

On your engine, if tired and down on compression it will be weak.

They can be a lot more responsive when compression is raised and engine is in good internal condition after a rebuild.

Is your engine a truck 265 with factory dual carbs and exhaust?

Stock 136 hp 265 factory fual carbs would be .375 or .380 lift. Duration I can see what i can find out 

The stock cam was nothing to special, it would have provided max torque at around 1600 RPM and HP would have been at 3600 RPM.

This would have been normal and for normal usage running in the 2 to 3k RPM ranges.

These engines had lots of grunt in a diesel like RPM band, of course gearing allowed a relatively low HP engine to move a lot of weight.

Not sure that is what you wanted to know.

The above noted link is for a cam regrind to more lift, duration and lobe separation 

Its not the stock 265 dual carbs truck cam profile.

Possibly it may be what you want.

Hey all, although this site is predicated on the almighty Chrysler Flathead 6 engine, there are tymes when a swap to another powerplant is desired.

I still firmly believe Chrysler flathead 6s are 1 of the greatest engineering marvels of the early 20th century. These engines continue to give great service records well into the early 21st century.

Okay here's the story,

Early this spring it was very evident my Fargos 228 engine was either just getting to tired, or needed a swap to 265, rebuild or serious gear swaps.

On the highway, against a brisk wind with vacuum gauge, it was real indicative of both sucking fuel and super low vacuum at speed.

In fact, getting to 60 mph was a chore, I attribute this to both, 3.23 gears and a weak engine.

I needed to make a decision on either I rebuild a 265 or swap in a low mile 318 I acquired for next to nothing from a 1986 Fifth Avenue Chrysler.

So after a few weeks consideration a decision was made to swap in the 318/904 combo.

I went to work on prepping this job, flathead 6 removal and getting 318 ready to go in it's place.

A good friend helped me swap, fabricate and install engine and trans mounts, cross member etc.

This went fairly smooth, and all was created to allow a swap right back to flathead 6 if desired in the future.

A driveshaft was sourced and cut to size, external trans cooler, and a used Mr Gasket shifter.

Exhaust is cobbled together and needs to be constructed properly at some point.

Engine runs great, some bugs needed to be ironed out, a few still linger.

Performance difference with a 318 versus a tired flathead 6 is night and day.

Getting to speed in highway is very fast.

Its no 300 hp engine, but a whole lot more snap.

Some pics.

Does it gave a 25 inch 250 engine now?

if yes a simple bolt in with the 241.

heck a 218 cdn Plymouth engine will bolt in.

Canadian 25 inch and 25 inch engines 8 bolt crank.

Lots of M37 owners swapped in 250 engines to replace 230 engines over tyme too.

Create a build thread and go at it. Helps those who may consider doing same in future...good luck

https://www.allpar.com/cars/desoto/suburban-1951.html

15 minutes ago, falconvan said:

I get it, some people are die hard restorers and don’t want to see anything changed from original. But at least I’m keeping it all Mopar.
 

Yes some are and to each there own.

Ive pretty well remain neutral on this these days.

I don't care what anyone chooses to do on there projects.

I think you are on right track with your project. And it can easily be reversed to OEM too if need be.

21 hours ago, keithb7 said:

Did you go with the Dodge 3 speed manual transmission? Will it have a steering column shifter? If so, have you found a steering column with shifter?

 

I have a car with a fluid torque drive. So far so good, but a back up plan is reassuring. I picked up a 1949 218 with flywheel, bell housing, clutch. Also thrown in was a 1953 speed manual tranny and another bell housing. I think the tranny and 2nd bell housing came out of a 53 Belvedere. With the bell housing and clutch I may be able to make these parts work if needed in the future? I will follow along your tranny swap and learn how you do things. Thanks for posting.

 

The Desoto shifter and linkage should work just fine.

In my case it did but who knows till he gets this started.

16 hours ago, falconvan said:

I did the same thing; got a Plymouth trans with the bell housing  and flywheel to eliminate the fluid drive. From what I’ve read the Desoto steering column will work. I did get the Plymouth shift linkage, too.

 

Finished the tear down today; from here it’ll be degrease, cleanup, paint, reassemble.

Desoto shifter and linkage should work just fine. The operative word is should...

Now your clutch throw out fork will not and needs to be shorter.

You will find out soon enough on it all..

Falconvan, as I posted to you on HAMB. Its a straight forward swap from FD to dry clutch.

You can then go with regular 3 spd or better yet R10 overdrive.

Other option is get another FD and flywheel and a 3spd trans. No moving of crossmember in that case.

I do understand you have bought the applicable clutch housing and trans to make this work?

I do find it amusing 1 follower of this post puts on the "sad face" over you getting rid of M6 but thinks a Chevy 200R trans is good...lol

with regular clutch way more grunt off the line. Trade off no more convenient FD in city driving...

1 hour ago, RNR1957NYer said:

Went from a rotary to a leaner?

Yes it was a radical idea, that I did not have tyme for, and my son didnt want it either.

It was compete with aluminum bell and A833 trans, driveshaft was not made yet, nor was some type of throwout mechanism and that would have been the toughest part of this swap. 

Getting engine mounted and trans crossmember was not overly difficult

8 hours ago, RNR1957NYer said:

Flathead Ford in a Pinto wagon

Least he kept it Furd on Furd or is that terd...lol

8 hours ago, Old CWO said:

 

Slant Six in Datsun Z car?  Well played sir.

Not quite 79 RX7

34 minutes ago, Loren said:

How about a Model A Ford engine in a pinto?

Banger in a Blow Up Pinto.

Why not.

I started this then changed my mind. I then pulled engine trans out and sold body.

Here new 1968 Camaro with Ford Flathead  V8.

On 12/24/2019 at 7:48 PM, n1gzd_plymouth said:

My engine is rebuilt and back in the car. Car runs and drives. Main issue to resolve now is rear end leak (new after changing seals - worse with new seals).

Rebecca

Okay Miss Rebecca how she be now with a fresh engine?

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

Did you have your radiator cleaned and flow tested?

 

Do the machinist clean all the gunk out of the bottom of the cooling jackets?

 

Did they install a new water distribution tube?

 

Is the proper thermostat being used and was it tested for proper operation?

 

Was the water pump impeller inspected?

 

Are the correct pulleys being used?

 

Was an oil temp gauge hooked up to see if the heat is coming from the oil?  IIRC the trans and engine shared the oil.

 

I live in west Texas and 100+ degree days are common.  I don't over heat, but I have a manual.

Good Stuff and often overlooked by flathead owners. Nothing like West Texas heat, cept the lower desert of So Cal and Arizona .Dont think San Fran no where near as hot..

Interesting on "oil temp", most times people don't get there engines oil temps hot enough, causing sledge and such, gettin it to heated temps are good to a point...

37 minutes ago, James_Douglas said:

 

My good friend and neighbor here in San Francisco has a low mileage 1946 Chrysler Town and Country Convertible. If he stops in gear for more than 10 minutes it starts to heat up just like my flathead sixes.  I guess you are just lucky. I am not, Don is not, and at least two or three other people I have talked to about this issue also have the same thing happen when stuck in hot stop and go highway traffic are not. My 98 point concourse 1949 Desoto Convertible also does the same thing.

 

I cannot explain the difference between your experience and ours.

 

 

 

 

Ambient ground surface temp at location

-relative humidity in location

-Ambient underhood temp and dissipation of such

airflow and heat dissipation over rad surfaces

-coolant flow rates

-radiator cooling efficiency

-fuel thermal rates

-your cooling passages partially obstructed,

On your 49 Concourse car, not gonna make a "hill of beans" difference.

Electric fans on rad, could help, or pull your hood off for summer.

Your car is a hulk of a tank, weight wise, add a couple of heavy adults in it, and bingo, that little 251 or 265 is working dam hard and getting heated up.

The big question, do you boil over, do you stall car and get stranded, do you lose all power because your fuel is boiling?

If not, what is your basic troubles, a hot engine in stand still traffic, on a hot day?

5 hours ago, martybose said:

When I bought the motor it was a worn out 0.060" over motor that had been rebuilt at least once, maybe twice.  The stock valve seats were both beat up and slightly burned, so it made sense to replace them.  Nothing secret about that.

 

Marty

.060 and to what .080.

What was the crank journals and rods measuring?

Burnt seats would have been a good idea to find new block perhaps.

I've seen burnt valves but dont recall seat issues.

sounds like your engine was abused.

8 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

Well don isn't here to answer what he used so you'll have to do your own research. I didn't build either of my engines but they have stock valves. One has new and one still has the old possibly originals

I realize that Ed on Don.

And for a majority of flathead owners these valves and seats fit the bill.

Heck 60 to 80 year old engines in service is quite an engineering accomplishment.

12 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

look at the whole picture. The car in the background is clearly not Don's P15 and that is not his engine. I don't get what you are trying to prove here....

What? Because somebody else's car is in the pic, its definitely not his engine. Not sure if it is or isn't. However Don is in the pics on this engine build.

Don built a few engines?

What are you trying to prove?

We are trying to determine what Chevrolet Valves he used in what engine.

You built a few engines, did you need to use Chevy valves and different seats?

This thread is about valve train upgrades and my block being at the machine shop Im considering all upgrades.