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55 Fargo

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Posts posted by 55 Fargo

  1. On 7/5/2021 at 5:22 AM, Tooljunkie said:

    Perhaps overthinking?

    hydraulic brake failure and a trunnion breaking leaving zero effective braking. Odds are its one or the other. 
    i just swapped out my flathead for a 360/727 and have yet to get my park brake cables sorted out. 

    You and me both TJ, a year since 318 swap, no ebrakes just yet.

     

  2. Hey all, anyone purchase a new 1 piece rubber windshield rubber for a C Series truck?

    I bought the type, with channel cord lock 

    Installer came by, brand new windshield for my 55 Fargo.

    The product looks and feels okay, but was no way going to fit into windshield opening.

    The installer had to stretch it several times for it, fit in opening and to install. 

    Very frustrating, a simple install took a lot longer because of this.

    The corners are a little wonky looking, and inside the cab there is a gap between rubber and glass for some distance.

    Other than this  it is in good and secure  did not seem to leak any water from outside.

    So he aware when ordering this may or may not be a problem with this particular windshield rubber.

    Roberts was contacted to inform them of my experience, they of course were sorry for this, but case closed.

    Just for any C series owners a heads up on this product.

    I will live with it, and not be taking out window to swap in another gasket.

  3. To OP you posted this ideas/question on the HAMB.

    You have had some good direction.

    This is appropriate forum for you to get to know your D24.

    Not sure you will find the support or guidance for a 302 swap here, but you never know.

    Good luck with your quest...

  4. 12 hours ago, Loren said:

    I had a 49 once, a club coupe.

    There's two Plymouths I've always wanted, a Suburban (I have a 52 now) and a Business Coupe.

    49s have much to love.

    I've corresponded with Tim and he's told me about it and shared photos.

    I live on the West Coast while he on the East. So I've not actually seen it up close and personal.

    That doesn't mean I can't appreciate it and want one just like it.

    Business Coupes were the cheapest of Plymouths but that doesn't mean you can't upgrade one.

    My Club Coupe had the most outstanding woodgrain and chrome dash (a Special Deluxe). No reason you couldn't do that to a B.C.

     

    The Drums and spindles I got were from a Windsor which is the 6 cylinder Chrysler and they use the 5 on 4 1/2 pattern bolt circle.

    Without taking the thread off the rails can you post pics of your 52 Suburban love those cars. 

  5. 12 hours ago, Loren said:

    I had a 49 once, a club coupe.

    There's two Plymouths I've always wanted, a Suburban (I have a 52 now) and a Business Coupe.

    49s have much to love.

    I've corresponded with Tim and he's told me about it and shared photos.

    I live on the West Coast while he on the East. So I've not actually seen it up close and personal.

    That doesn't mean I can't appreciate it and want one just like it.

    Business Coupes were the cheapest of Plymouths but that doesn't mean you can't upgrade one.

    My Club Coupe had the most outstanding woodgrain and chrome dash (a Special Deluxe). No reason you couldn't do that to a B.C.

     

    The Drums and spindles I got were from a Windsor which is the 6 cylinder Chrysler and they use the 5 on 4 1/2 pattern bolt circle.

    Yes of course a Windsor is a 5 x 4.5, the biggins such as Limo and 8 passenger and perhaps TC convert are 5x5...

  6. 16 minutes ago, Loren said:

     

    Mopar and Ford (late) are 5 on 4 1/2.

    The Ford guys have been putting Lincoln 12 inch brakes on their cars for decades.

    In fact you can buy reproduction Lincoln brakes with the updated Bendix design system now.

    I am tempted to buy a set and then compare the pieces. (I have a Model A which could use them).

    Chrysler brakes are a challenge to find but they are out there (for about half the price of new Lincoln brakes).

    I believe the Bendix system is better and easier to live with, plus you can add self adjusters to them.

    The Lockheed system is the older of the two. When Ford switched to Bendix with the 49 models, my Dad hated them as they were "self energizing". He said you lost brake feeling. I don't know what he was talking about and I can't ask him now but I am pretty particular about my brakes too.

    Vern Tardel the Ford V8 Traditional Hot Rod Guru thinks Lincoln brakes are the way to go. He says they really STOP! And he's never suggested you need disc brakes.

    I've seen Tim's 49 and lusted for it!

    Good stuff, I thought the big drums and hubs off limo sized 12 inch brake cars were bigger than the usual 4.5 on 5?

    When did you see Tims beast?

    Quite the car isnt it?

     

  7. On 24/01/2021 at 8:23 PM, Loren said:

    Want an easier solution or are you committed to discs?

    Chrysler 12 inch brakes.

    31F94D42-B975-4751-86D8-857EF3E5126F_1_201_a.jpeg

    You know this is not a bad idea.

    The 12 inch brakes have a 5x5 pattern though correct?

    To be honest the 11 inch brakes with good drums and well adjusted will put you into the dash too..

    Discs are fine too, easier for most but not necessarily gonna be 100s of times greater than dual WC brakes setup well.

    Trouble is getting the shoes tru to drums in correct clearances.

    Tim Kingsburys hot 265 powered 49 Plymouth has 12 inch Chrysler drum brakes up front...

    A lot of the disc kits work fine, even with stock MC. 

    There certainly good for those who say have no decent drums, and for those who absolutely cannot "get it right" with Lockheed Brakes.

    On my 55 Fargo I have stock up front and modern bendix 10 inch drums in rear.

    It stops decent, the rears are better though and this will need to be addressed.

    I have considered going to more modern dodge bendix drum brakes up front. 

  8. Just started my 318 this evening after 5 days.

    Tried the crank a few times, wait then crank a few times.

    It started after 4 or 5 such cycles.

    If I prime bowl it fires immediately.

    Gonna add an electric for priming, just gonna have to be this way..

  9. On 1/9/2021 at 12:36 PM, flint52 said:

    Thanks for all the replies, i really appreciate it. To answer a few questions. 

     

    Am i dead set on the 3.9 - no, i am just trying to find an economical powerplant for the 50 and cant see spending a few grand on the old flathead

    What is the purpose of the car - just a fair weather cruiser to drive around when its nice, have a big block dart if i want to go fast

    Frame Swap? Probably not as i just want a decent cruiser, i've rebuilt the front suspension, added disc brakes and a dual master for safety all before the flathead went

     

    all in all just want to get the 50 back up and running as its been a few years. 

     

    Ryan

     

    Ryan, if you already have front end rebuilt with Disc Brakes, all good to go. I say go for it get the 3.9 mocked up and into the car....

  10. On 1/9/2021 at 12:00 PM, allbizz49 said:

    It boils down to is it worth the time, money and effort. Anything can be made to work. Chassis swap or even front frame swap probably isn't necessary. Why do all of that when you can fab up or even buy mounts? Is it going to be a daily driver or fair weather cruiser? Are you totally sold on the v6? If so, I would yank the flatty and start mocking up the new motor and tranny. Really.just simple hot rodding, guys have been doing it forever. A bit more satisfying when you're done and you did it yourself. I recall Mopar performance selling a roots supercharger for those 3.9s, haha.

    Hey I agree 100% on a "NO TO" a complete frame or front sub frame swap. The IFS on this setup is real decent, add disc brakes too for your added safety and braking efficiency.

    Lots of Rodders can and do these swaps, and sure you or OP can handle it too, but it aint necessary, up above and others have some more complicated ideas, that are okay, but far from whats needed for these cars.

    I also lean toward a V8 on this 318/360 or 5.7 L HEMI..

  11. 16 minutes ago, RobertKB said:


    Yes, but you’re in Manitoba, home of Winterpeg. In southern Alberta we’ve had two snowfalls so far this winter with warmer 9temperatures quickly following. Snow went quickly. Ground has been snow free 90% of the time. Right now 7C or 45F. Lovin’ it!!

    Not very cold here at all. And for weeks already not much snow and none til December that stayed in ground. While its not 7c its about -1 c 

    Mid November it was 20 c 1 sunday.

    Did I mention Manitoba has real hot summers and real humid. Alberta summer is cold comparisons, if you don't have AC here you will roast at night..

  12. 10 minutes ago, Sniper said:

     

    If I live in the panhandle, I'm 5.5 hours south of Amarillo, I would expect it.  But there is a reason I don;t live there. 

    How would yall like about 20 hours due north of Amarillo where I live...lol

    I would guess about 1200 miles or so north of Amarillo..

  13. 9 minutes ago, Sniper said:

    Just to honor my Canadian friends, if we do get snow I'll go drive in it.

     

    I say if because I am reminded of what my father used to say to me "little boys who lie grow up to be weathermen".

     

    Funny... senior Canadian climatologist up here so far calling it bang on...real good liar...lol

  14. 11 minutes ago, keithb7 said:


     

     We’re driving in January in Canada. Snow free roads. It’s snowing in Texas. Lol. Can’t say that very often. 

     

    Actually the Texas panhandle and Amarillo can get cold and snowy. But it don't last long Im sure.

  15. 9 hours ago, TodFitch said:

    I don't think so.

     

    The inlet and outlet check valves should see the same flow when gas is pumped by the electric as when the pump itself is doing the work.

     

    The spring loaded diaphragm that runs off the cam to pump the gas will be held in the pressurized position. Which actually means there is likely a bit less wear on things like the actuating arm, pivot points, etc.

    Are you referring to the Mechanical or Electric pump Tod?

    Sounds like yours and Sam's post cleared it up...thanx

  16. Here's something I have pondered, if the electric pump is used to prime or in a heated fuel issue.

    The fact the pump is not being pumped often but has fuel running through it, will its innards be prone to premature wear for any reasons?

  17. 1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

    I got an inline 6v pump from MACs a while back, but when I search their site now I can only fine 12v versions. I believe it was Airtex and has a pressure rating of 2.5-4.5 psi. This won't put out too much pressure for your carburetor so you won't need a regulator. I mounted it inline near the tank and used it as you describe. I found that I sometimes had to crank the engine for a couple seconds to get the pump to start pushing fuel through the mechanical pump for priming. I'm not sure why, unless it can't push fuel through if the diaphragm is in a certain position. I also found it good on very hot, after a short shut-off condition, when the mechanical pump would struggle to pump. I could switch on the electric pump and everything would smooth out. After I'd get moving again, to get good air flow through the engine compartment, I could switch the pump off and continue on. My switch is double throw, on-off-momentary. I have it wired so it'll activate the pump either way. 

     

    Recently I replumbed it to have a parallel line from the electric pump that bypasses the mechanical one. It still works the same way but primes up every time without needing to give it a short crank. I also figured this would be a better backup if the mechanical pump failed.  

     

    My pump looks like this

    E8902-2T.jpg?v-cache=1590511563

    Thanx for the info Merle.

    This pump is same on 12 vdc I take it.

    On my 318 with mechanical fuel pump, Carter BBD 2 bbl carb same issues.

    If i dont start engine after a day or so gotta prime carb or lots of cranking. Headscratching thing is I use non ethanol fuel too. So either the bowls are drying up fast or fuel is back siphoning.

    With a prime she fires instantly, no problem in hot weather I have noticed yet, but sure there will be.

     

  18. 55 minutes ago, Me56Dodge said:

    1/2/2021 UPDATE!

     

    Through the registry, I found out that my truck is a C-3-C8. It was titled as a 1956, but manufactured in 1955 in Detroit Michigan with a build number of 1249. Back then in Pa. a Left Over Truck from the Previous year was commonly Titled as the year that it was sold in. HARRISBURG is SUCH A HOT MESS! 

     

    I found out the the Desoto Engine is a 1949 Desoto S13 237 Cubic Inch. Block Casting number is 1128129-1, Head Casting is 1313825-2,

    and Engine Block # Is

    49 

    2-61

    Sl3-b 6883

     

    Does this new information change anything about the advice  "

    Yes the 25 inch engine will fit, your front engine mount will need to move forward. The rad will need to move forward too, not a big deal.

    That bell is it from a C series truck?

    The B series bell is different, oh it will bolt up but it has the MC attached to it. The C series truck bell has no such provision for the MC to attach.

    The Desoto engine, plus a c series 6 cylinder bell and 8 bolt flywheel and your in business. But you will have the 251 engine moved 2 inches ahead of what the 230 would be. Your 3 spd trans in truck should bolt to correct C series bell too."

     

    Thanks SOO MUCH ! HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!

    Patrick

     

    Nope it does not. The 237 is no different than a 251.

  19. 2 hours ago, Frank Gooz said:

    Good Moring,

    I just bought a tranny adapter to put a late model tranny behind a 251.

    I called back as the part number is called a 230/350.

    The owner told me he has not seen a Mopar flat head six that is different that his plate will not fit yet.

    So I would say that it will bolt up. but other things may not be there like bot holes and threaded hole.

    Well great 4 it...lol Yes the pattern on rear of the 23.5 engine and 25 inch engines is same. Crank depths and bolt patterns may vary. Meaning a 201 or 217 has a 4 bolt crank while a 230 has the 8 bolt crank.

    What is the trans adapter for?

    The T5 on the truck bells does not require an adapter plate. It requires a center hole retainer and a pilot bearing, throw out bearing bushing, clutch disc change etc.

    The A833 swsp requires an adapter plate for both car and truck application's.

  20. 2 hours ago, Me56Dodge said:

    THANKS SOOO MUCH!

     

    I was told by the guy I bought the bad 230 engine and transmission from that it was from a C series. How can I tell? 

    Or would you have the part numbers I can look for?

    I apologize for my ignorance...

     

    Patrick

    The C series bell will not have a bracket on side for the master cylinder. Your 270 Poly bell should be similar..

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