garyanna2
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I put mine on the fire wall under the divers side up high. No power booster though.
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Messed up big time lower rear shackle bolt
garyanna2 replied to garyanna2's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Now thats funny! -
Thanks Jeff I have the axel in and when it cools off a little this evening i will set the pinion angel, and weld it in. The rear had 5 leafs i took out 2 leaving 3, also added 1954 wills shackles . The rear fender sets about even with the top of the tire looks ok but might add one back. i have the slant six setting up front and it fits like a glove thanks to Cliford it has some added power. No cutting fire wall and if the car version is used no oil pan change. I will try to post some pictures for show and tell. thanks.
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Messed up big time lower rear shackle bolt
garyanna2 replied to garyanna2's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Thanks so much I used a 650lbs IR air gun that belongs to a friend turned the air all the way up heated it and while i beat it with a bfh the gun took it off. I think part of the problem besides no one greased them for years is the outside of the pin cuts groves into the spring eyes. With out lube it make a man want to drink . I drink ice tea ,next time it will take a stronger drink. -
I did not think that the lower bolt is left handed, i thought that was only on the drivers side. Well it is tight now and a friend suggested we cut the shackle off. Now i see i was so wrong and that bolt is supper tight. I need to remove the spring off the truck and drill out or put a long cheater in a breaker bar to remove it help! signed bone head. The shackle is not there to help hold it now.
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Makes sense, I have opted to buy a corvette MC because the vet has 4 disks already also bought the combination valve. But the jeep would be the best bet with jeep rear. Thanks I have the 3.55 rear as well does it work well highway and city? I hope so because its ready to put on.
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I have the jeep rear with disks and for a mater cylinder i have a 60/40 split MC. It came as a kit with brake and all the MC is GM. Can i use this with the disk brakes that i have or do i have to use a new same size bowel disk type MC. Has anyone just used the one like i have with the disk brake combination valve for disk brakes? Just trying to use what i have on hand. The disk brakes use 2psi where the drum uses 10psi but the combination valve should reduce the 10psi to 2psi right? That would let me use what i have? Food for thought.
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Thanks for the help i have never been this deep into a build. I always appreciate advise from others. Just waiting for parts from summit, They think i can make it work with one ujoint and a 26" slip shaft. If not i will get a dd joint also.
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Thanks that is what i needed i have a ididit column now to get the shaft with ujoints and check the travel.
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I found my answer in a old post that a collapsible type steering column was used with two ujoints and d shaft.
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So on the d shaft there is a slip joint used? That is what iam asking. Iam aware of the old shafts like the one on the 52 b3b. But some on the site seem to have used just two ujoints. There is no shock to the column from the driver wheel springing up after a sharp impact? Something has to slip or break or slip or maybe some fairy dust is used. I thought it was a reasonable question and was hoping for a little more help thanks.
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I was about to hook up my ididit column to the omni rack when a friend asked what takes up the up and down movement from the axel to the column? I did not see if the d shaft was a slip type or not, is there a problem . I believe that most people must mount the d shaft and the two ujoint's as a straight shot. I have no answer and did not find any info in past posts. I did not buy everything yet just getting ready to go to Napa.
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Thanks for your thoughts.
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Dropped off the Omni rack at the shop to make the tie rod ends today. We are thinking of using a set screw at the end where the tie rod end is in stead of the jam nut this allows more adjustment if needed what do you think? This is the last step i hope. The rack worked out to 52- 521/2 long is that about right? slant six looks good in there. A very easy fit.
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I have been working on ol rufus and laid out the omni rack every thing looks ok. When you posted a picture of your tie rod modification is that a solid stock drilled out to to fit both the rack and the old dodge tie rods? I could not locate any discussion on the tie rod ends. thanks for the help.
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Good to hear, yes I had a machine shop drill out solid stock, think it was around 1 1/4”, 1/2 way for inner tie rod tap size and 1/2 way for outer. Only thing I would change is you should have a jam nut against both ends, I only did the inner side because the outer was very very tight to get on anyway.
i also used two of the same r/h thread outlets, vs original uses one r/h and one l/h
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Thanks heading to the metal shop and have that done as well as putting 90 on the 1/4" plate. The slant six fit real well removed it to do this work and hook up the brakes. I finely see some light at the end of this build.
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