TylerB46
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Everything posted by TylerB46
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Oil leaking from behind crank pulley
TylerB46 replied to TylerB46's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I had the oil pan off once before this, because I saw some metal shavings. Turns out the slinger was getting chewed by the timing chain so I took the slinger out. I believe this leak I’m having now is because the oil seal got a little damaged by the slinger. -
Oil leaking from behind crank pulley
TylerB46 replied to TylerB46's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
The leak I’m having is coming from the back of the damper, when the engine is running I can see that the back of the damper is soaked, and if any throttle is applied it’ll sling oil all the way to the passenger side tire. Thank you for the info, especially the name of the sleeve. I’m gonna start taking things back apart today, hopefully the issue is obvious. -
Oil leaking from behind crank pulley
TylerB46 replied to TylerB46's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Yes it does, it really does. Think it may be worth just checking out the damper before I fool with taking the cover off? -
Oil leaking from behind crank pulley
TylerB46 replied to TylerB46's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I did not know that, I’ll do that and hopefully that’ll fix the issue, the crank should be okay since it’s freshly machined, but I’ll check it to make sure it’s good. Thank you for the good info. -
So I’ve been working on this truck for awhile now, the engine is freshly rebuilt with all new gaskets. It had a leak a while back coming from the front of the oil pan and Ive since fixed that. Now I’ve noticed that while the engine is running oil is being slung in a line following the crank pulley across the whole cross member. Like I mentioned earlier it has all new gaskets and a new oil seal. Can anyone help me out with this? Thank you P.S. Can someone tell me where the blue gasket ring in that pic goes?
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Okay, so i might trim and see how things go. This truck might be luck if it see’s 3000 a year, so it’s not going to be driven much.
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Is that what the bushings are designed to prevent? My brake pedal rubs the floorboard but I was just going to trim a little bit around of the floorboard to give it more room.
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So you’re saying I do need them, correct? Also is there somewhere I could get the arbor I’d need?
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Hi Im pretty sure this is a dumb question but I wanted to ask, how important are the copper bushings that go on the clutch fork through the bell housing? Mine are toast so I bought a set and could not get them in without destroying them. Once it’s finished my truck won’t be driven a whole lot, so I was curious if I truly needed them. If so does anyone have any helpful installation tips? Thanks Btw the truck is a 46 WC 1/2 ton if that helps at all.
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I appreciate that, mine does have a small leak around the plug, but at least for now it’s not enough to even drip on the ground, the collar just stays a little wet.
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Hi, the little tab on the front of my 230’s oil pan popped a weld. Should I get that fixed or would it still be okay? I’m going to use a little gasket maker on both sides of the gasket so it shouldn’t move around any, I just don’t know how important that tab is. Thanks! P.S. Yes I’m going to clean the pan before I install it.
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I looked up into the engine while the pan was off but of course I couldn’t see everything, I’ll change the filter and I’ve cleaned the timing set and pan the best I could. I’ll run it again and change the oil pretty soon to try to flush it out.
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Found out the metal shavings were from the oil slinger getting chewed up, it didn’t seem to have hurt anything so i just tossed it. Also there was a small dent in the timing cover so the chain was eating away at it some. So hopefully that’s the end of the worrisome shavings.
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Thanks, all of the metal Is magnetic, so it’s at least not the bearings.
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Okay so I got the oil pan off and it looks like a little bit of coolant got into the oil, there’s a greenish sheen in the oil. But now I’m a bit more worried because I found some tiny metal flakes in the bottom of the pan and a couple decent shavings. This engine is a fresh rebuilt with new pistons, rings, etc... so this might turn into a bigger ordeal than just a couple leaks...
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On a sidenote from what I can tell there’s no coolant getting into my oil so I don’t think any is leaking into where the timing chain is.
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The engine has been completely rebuilt, with a brand new timing set, I just never put any sealer on the bolts. I have new gaskets but would rather not remove the timing set if possible, do you think just taking one bolt out at a time and putting sealer on it, then putting it back in would be okay? Or do I need to put something on the gasket itself to help with leaking?
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Hi I finally got my 230 running but I’ve noticed a coolant and oil leak coming from the front of the engine. It happens when the engine is warm, and they both accumulate on the front cross member. I figured the oil is from the front of the pan so I’m going to drop the pan and put on a new gasket with some sealer to help it out. As far as the coolant leak goes I’m just an idiot and didn’t put any thread sealer on the timing plate bolts. SO my question is, how can I support the front of my engine so that I can remove the “floating power” front engine mount and remove the timing cover/plate. Also does it sound like I’m going about this the right way with the sealers? I’m new to engine building and especially new to flatheads. Thank you.
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Okay just wanted to make sure before I spent the money on them, thank you all.
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Hey folks, I’m getting pretty close to being able to drive my truck and I need universal joints. All I can find are $75 and $90 replacements for this truck and I really don’t want to spent $150-$180 on u-joints. Does anyone know of any cheaper ones that would be interchangeable?
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My friend came over and we got it running, turns out the distributor needed turned a bit more and it fired right up.
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Haha I’ll have to try that, it’ll save me the headache of trying to find someone else to help me.
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Ive used so starter fluid and it didn’t seem to help much, I’m thinking it might be a timing issue, but it’s hard for me to check all that by myself since I have to be in the cab to crank it over. Hopefully I can get a buddy of mine to swing by and help me out.
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https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Replacement-Carburetor-for-Rochester-B_p_4411.html That’s the carburetor I bought Also I’m cranking with a 12v is that not enough in of itself?
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I tried moving them over 1 space in each direction. Clockwise it makes a flame shoot out the exhaust manifold, and counter clockwise it makes the engine difficult to crank over so I’m back to square one.
