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  1. Like
    Blue reacted to JBNeal in Me and the B-1-D   
    According to Bunn & Brownell's Dodge Pickups History and Restoration Guide, there were 31,110 1-tons made in the US for 1948, with 188,294 trucks manufactured that year...
    According to Bunn's Dodge B-Series Trucks Restorer's & Collector's Reference Guide and History, your truck appears to be sporting some Dodge Truck Dark Blue...
  2. Like
    Blue reacted to maxmac in King Pin replacement issues   
    Will do.
    And all comments thereafter are spot on.  Searched for a set of 1/2 or 3/4 ton spindles and couldn't find any.  Also searched for an axle...  I'd stick with the drums, but the passenger side is totally shot and was having trouble finding all of the parts that I needed (aside from the wheel cylinders).  Want it to be safe and with the work I have into it now, the cost of the disc conversion is money well spent.  I just need to get the front brakes set up, put the new gas tank in and a couple minor things to take of with the rear end and the truck will be ready for the road again.  Got the motor running again a couple of weeks ago (first time since 2005).  Once all of this is finished I'm selling it.  Was helping out a friend who needed it gone.  I have a '65 Town Wagon that is my primary project....  
  3. Like
    Blue got a reaction from TrampSteer in Found this dodge ram at the antique swap meet ...   
    Besides hard starting, speed control during mating season was always a challenge.
  4. Like
    Blue reacted to Merle Coggins in NEED a picture or reference   
  5. Thanks
    Blue reacted to Plymouthy Adams in Info please on mustang 2 installation   
    the year of choice depends on you and what you want...the later models will involve 6 lug wheels and as a truck that is not a problem..looks out of place on cars though...I have dealt with a 89, 91, 94, 01, 03 and 04 models.....you just cannot buy one and run with it as there are going to be some trade offs in what can be kept looking original (wheels and hubcaps is main item) and what is modern.....when you get to the later models with the larger 12 inch rotors, abs brakes and such which is an easy transfer....rims are going to come into play....early years had smaller rotor, 5 lug pattern...but in my opinion, the ease of the overall job, the fact that repair parts are inexpensive, all the modern pluses of R&P, discs, better shocks, sway bar etc etc...this to me is the way to go....you also do not have to worry of the welding of the components as they are factory and all you are doing is frame coupling...which I have found is not an issue at all even for a base fabricator.....
  6. Like
    Blue reacted to P15-D24 in Engine builders   
    Exhaust/valve guide position (They alternate)
    Replace water distribution tube
    Make sure the timing chain oiler tube is installed
    Rods are offset, make sure the order is correct.
    Make sure the block is fully flushed with all freeze plugs pulled (including the ones at the back of the block)
    Replace the cam bearings
    Make sure cam/oil pump is installed correctly so timing is correct. 
    Don't trim the oil pan gaskets
    Don't forget to install the rubber gaskets at the front and rear mains.  
    Distributor has a gasket going into the block (Sometimes an "O" ring is used)
    Make sure the oil pressure relief valve is installed correct and works correctly. 
    Pre pressurize the oil system before before first start (Assembly lube is gone after 1 or 2 revolutions.)
    Replace valve seats as needed, exhaust seats are hardened. 
    Triple grind valves, no lapping needed. 
    If front crankshaft hub sealing surface is worn, speed-sleeve it so it won't leak. 
  7. Like
    Blue reacted to Ram Man 02 in Info please on mustang 2 installation   
    I have my opinions on how  to do things just like anyone does and i know there are many different ways to accomplish a goal. I normally dont chime in of these types of threads. That being said I have purchased a four link rear with coilovers setup from JW Rod Garage and an M2 IFS from Fatman, both of which im almost certain make a mustang 2 style IFS for your truck. I would call them to confirm that but i feel like both companies are producing high quality products. I want my truck to ride, stop, and handle like a modern vehicle.
    Something that i didnt see mentioned above is the oil pan. on my 218 the oil pick up is in the front, im not sure how yours is and that might be something they switched to on a pilothouse to decrease its turning radius but youre going to want a rear sump pan to work with any kind of modern IFS.
    I talked to plymouthy adams a couple years ago before i made my final decision to go the route i did. he mentioned even chopping the whole front frame half from a junk dakota and grafting the 2 frames together. While i liked the idea i couldnt find a decent price on something that wasnt complete junk around me.
    My truck is going into a shop sometime in january to have all mentioned parts welded in but here was why i felt the advantage went to the FATMAN ifs. It has a fixed price of 2k. everything is 100% new and they put the engineering into getting the cross member and suspension angles right to work with my stock frame. For the record the shop is charging me $1100 to weld the IFS in. when its done the wheels will be centered in the openings and i dont have to figure out how to fabricate anything. it rolls out ready for what ever engine i want.
    So $3100 might seam like a large chunk of money to lay out up front and i agree that it is. i saw the valve in not rebuilding an old dakota frame which odds are probably isnt the right wheel base (it wasnt in my case). It also doesnt have the correct angles (my stock frame is straight, the dakota isnt) or locations for body mounts. if i got even 1 mount off by an 1/8" that might make an interesting time trying to line up body panels and get gaps correct.
    Thats my opinion for what its worth.
  8. Like
    Blue reacted to ggdad1951 in what are the rules cruise in/ car shows   
    you should have paid and parked...and likely had a larger group of people checking out the oddball vehicle than some of the trailer queens...when I go to the local MoPaRs in the Park, I enter in the "appearing as original" class...I've won it and it was fun to see the snobs with their (admitted) bought cars gets fewer looks than a big old red truck.  NOTHING gets "those" people more hot under the collar than see things like that happen...preconceived notions and all.
  9. Like
    Blue reacted to White Spyder in what are the rules cruise in/ car shows   
    I agree. We have been running a show for the past 15 years and ANY Vehical is welcome  we have classes for modern muscle, most original, best restoration and even project Vehical. The common thing is an appreciation of cars/trucks/motorcycles/tractor anything with wheels and an engine. 
  10. Haha
    Blue reacted to Reg Evans in Dodge Ram?   
    Hey, who you callin an old goat ?  Why I oughta...…...
  11. Like
    Blue got a reaction from FlashBuddy in Exhaust baffle spring   
    PS. I say this respectfully of DCM - I have purchased a few things that were wrong or not functioning out of the box. You may want to test the fuel pump if you are thinking fuel system.
  12. Like
    Blue reacted to Dodgeb4ya in Side View Mirror Brackets for '51 to '53 Trucks   
    The medium to heavy trucks used this arm...

  13. Like
    Blue reacted to Merle Coggins in Exhaust baffle spring   
    Your “bench test” is only testing the accelerator pump. That part only comes into play when you first step on the throttle pedal. Once under way, as steady throttle, your engine is getting gas through the main jet. It may be partially plugged. 
  14. Like
    Blue reacted to johnsartain in Exhaust baffle spring   
    Have you replaced your Fuel cap by any chance? New caps are non vented. This will cause a vacuum to be drawn on the tank and reducing fuel flow.It can reduce it to the point that the carburetor starves of fuel and the engine dies. If you have bought the new non-vented cap, it can be converted to vented by removing the center piece from the cap. 
  15. Like
    Blue reacted to Merle Coggins in Supporting front of engine   
    A piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan will help spread the load over a larger surface area. This has been done many times. But as Tim cautions, try not to add any additional weight of jostling once supported that way. A "U" support made out of 2X4's to go against the pan rail would also work if that makes you more comfortable. You only need to take enough weight to get the front mount out of the way. You are not supporting the whole weight of the engine. Remember that the clutch and trans weight are behind the rear mounts, so that weight will offset the weight of the front of the engine.
  16. Like
    Blue reacted to JBNeal in Exhaust baffle spring   
    additional information - Heat Riser Advisor 
  17. Like
    Blue reacted to greg g in Exhaust baffle spring   
    The carburetor has a step up jet that takes over after the initial richening of the accelerator pump.  It is vacuum operated to stay closed at idle and cruise both high vacuum states. If it is not getting its signal it will stay open causing an over rich mixture and leading to plug fouling and or misfires.  The vacuum path is from the intake manifold through the body of the carb.  This is provided by a slot in the carb to intake manifold this slot aligns with a hole in the base of the carb allowing high vacuum to pull the needle valve closed when a rich mixture is not needed. Do you recall if the slot was present and properly positioned when you reinstalled you carb?
  18. Like
    Blue reacted to Don Coatney in Flywheel Bolt Problem (Major)   
    My application is a bit different than yours. I have a Desoto engine, P-15 flywheel, T-5 transmission. The critical thing is finding bolts with a shoulder long enough to go inside both the flywheel and the end of the crankshaft. The bolts pictured below are what I used. If you do not use bolts with the long shoulder you run the risk of shearing off the bolts as the threads are not as strong as the shoulder. These bolts were too long so I had to cut them to length. As you can see I installed the bolts with the nuts on the engine side



  19. Like
    Blue reacted to pflaming in Patina for sure   
    Now put on some chrome rims, radial tires, remove the box and hoist, and build a nice cabin on the back. I 'm with the others, that is NICE. Will haul a lot of snow!
  20. Like
    Blue reacted to MBFowler in Patina for sure   
    I got a call about this Sunday evening from a relative of a person I worked with almost 20 yrs ago.  He had remembered that I was in to old Dodges and had seen my 49 1 ton when I got it in 85.   Anyway, he told me he had this 46 2 ton dump for sale that had been sitting in a barn for many years.   I wasn't, but went to look at it anyway.   It's now sitting in my driveway.  Everything, and I mean everything on this truck works-even the fuel guage.  It has new brakes all the way around, and new king pins.  The interior is complete with all of the original panels in very nice shape.  The sheet metal is extremely solid.  The only issue I can see is a stuck intake valve that I'll be working on.  I'm not going to restore this one.   This will be cleaned up, preserved, and used.   And she'll be going back inside.
  21. Thanks
    Blue got a reaction from Don Coatney in LEAking rear end near u joint   
    Geez, Don. What else are doing in your shop. Is that blood on the ground? I know, I know... what happens in fight shop stays in fight shop.
  22. Thanks
    Blue got a reaction from Don Coatney in LEAking rear end near u joint   
    Geez, Don. What else are doing in your shop. Is that blood on the ground? I know, I know... what happens in fight shop stays in fight shop.
  23. Thanks
    Blue got a reaction from Don Coatney in LEAking rear end near u joint   
    Geez, Don. What else are doing in your shop. Is that blood on the ground? I know, I know... what happens in fight shop stays in fight shop.
  24. Thanks
    Blue reacted to Don Coatney in LEAking rear end near u joint   
    The axle breather is located where the brake lines splitter bolts to the top of the differential housing. The brass fitting in the photo below.

  25. Thanks
    Blue reacted to Merle Coggins in LEAking rear end near u joint   
    Likely need to replace the pinion seal. May also need a Speedi-Sleeve on the pinion flange. I would also suggest to clean/inspect the axle breather. If it’s plugged up there will be a pressure buildup inside the axle housing that exaggerates a seal leak. 
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