Blue

My wheels are custom made and look good. It may be hard to find a stock 6 x 7.25. Take a look at the guys below:

https://www.amwheelspecialist.com/obsolete/

I don't know if Coker has anything, if not they may be able to direct you.

Has anyone on the board ever been in one? I have always wondered how strong the fumes were.

41 minutes ago, Charlie Stephenson said:

Thank You Blue and Paul,  ONLY if it is Powered by a Chrysler T354  413.16 cu. in. Flathead 6 cylinder engine/transmission. This one doesn't look like it would  have the 30 inch long engine in it,  not enough distance ahead of the axel for the front of the engine,  no Dayton or 10 bolt Bud wheels either.  But a great looking Duce.   Charlie Stephenson...

Oh no, this is a beast of an M35 with a diesel engine. I know what you are talking about now. I didn't realize they are so rare. We had a couple (of what I believe were mid 50's) in the Philippines in the late 80's.

On 2/10/2019 at 1:01 PM, Charlie Stephenson said:

I'm looking for one of these, 1954 1955 1956 Big Dodge 10 Wheel Trucks,  with a complete 413.16 Flathead 6 Moly Block complete, any condition,  anyone  have - seen- have pictures of one?  Charlie Stephenson

Hey Charlie, do you mean a "deuce and a half"?

5 hours ago, Brent B3B said:

I Recently picked up another truck and it makes me laugh at some of the "on the fly" fixes folks make to these trucks. Not talking " rat rods" or "custom" upgrades but, things people do in the name of repairs. Example- glove box door lock

 

Yep, they drilled a hole in the dash to hook a bent rod in it to hold the door closed. ?

what have you come acrossed in your builds?

Hey Brent, what did you expect? the ad said custom interior.

I don't know if you have seen this series. I love these old videos.

16 hours ago, peteandvanessa said:

Here's what the front right brake looks like when I pulled it off today. The right brake lining actually fell off when I pulled the drum. Notice the hokey return spring, someone was creative there for sure. ?

Ahhh yes. That "engineering" we all love so much. BTW, I love a good VW and have enjoyed your pics of those as well.

Hey Pete, you may already know this: from your picture your anchor bolts need to be adjusted. Drum brakes get a lot of bad press, but adjusted correctly I don't mind them. I also don't drive on the highway. Thanks for the thread, I have been enjoying watching your truck come together. Another old Dodge coming back to life. JD

Just sent a PM. Thanks, GGdad

1 minute ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

 again, this is an all to familiar report from the members here after a tune up.....the new points have springs that must be put in place to be effective....seems they are no longer assembled as part of the breaker points but inserted on installation......many members tend to think this is an optional spring...it is not optional....just an added step in the points installation...test for point float....17 to 20 ounces of spring tension is required...to move the floating contact breaker arm...may not be your problem..but still would be an item to ensure is right when you truly may not know what is wrong....

You certainly could be right, but he is saying he performed a tune up because of the problem.

Fuel delivery makes a lot of sense, but it seems you have checked everything. I had an old Jeep truck with a similar problem and it was a pinched fuel line. How are your temperature and oil pressure gauges when the jerking is happening?

Did you check the springs on the mechanical advance while you were in the distributor? It's a stretch, but something to think about. Does it run fine at 40 until it gets warm?

1 hour ago, NiftyFifty said:

 

Just get a 1/2 ton axle or spindles, that’s what I did on my 1 ton, was cheaper then the machining costs, and a direct bolt in.

You can't change out the spindle from 1 ton to 1/2 ton, but you can change the axle. Then you get into a mismatch problem with the rear end bolt pattern etc. In my case, I don't want to give up the original axle.

13 hours ago, maxmac said:

Yes, but the spindles are not.....

If you wouldn't mind, let me know how the conversion turns out. I have been thinking about doing it, but am concerned with the spindle reduction. Also, I really don't mind drum brakes, it adds spice to life. But if the final product is good I may convert. JD

https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/brake-parts-1

and they are pretty helpful on the phone. VPW as well.

15 hours ago, BlueberryDodge said:

Hey JPP, my running boards are not secured in the front to the fender and are completely stable. The bracket holes to attach them are the same on both sides. I hope that helps a little.

Let me clarify: the mounting holes are in the fender and running board, but the piece to join them together is missing. I don't believe this piece is needed for stability, but to keep dirt from collecting on the front of the running board. I drive on the street and have had no issues with keeping this area clean. I think making this missing piece would be very simple, I just don't need it.

Hey JPP, my running boards are not secured in the front to the fender and are completely stable. The bracket holes to attach them are the same on both sides. I hope that helps a little.

10 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

 

wow..what is scrap prices in your area...even a totally shot Dakota suspension is less than 150.00 to rebuild.  I got a running V8 Dakotas with  5 speed, low mileage blowing cold air, new tires, good battery with damage due to side swipe for 900.00 drives like a champ.......this is not a fluke...got a second one with automatic for 350.00  this includes Posi trac rear gear and rear sway bars...the Dakota is a square frame from where any subframe cut will be done....while you chose another route and that is all well and fine and your call, I just think a few things were overlooked.....I also bought a couple early Dakota which are great for later square frame cars...one for 100.00 with excellent front tires and brakes like new.....and the other for 350, they wanted a bit more for the rear axle include in this package...as they wished to sell all or none...

What years are you purchasing? I was looking at a B2B rolling chassis in good shape and thinking about a Dakota frame. I have seen one of these conversions and it didn't look like a great fit, but i think the build in general was pretty half assed.

I have a mustang 2 front end on my 50 Ford. I have never seen one for a Dodge and don't believe it exists. There is tons of information on this site about swapping for a modern front end (although your RC may be a little unusual). I am sure if you post your dimensions, someone will have an idea about a good, safe front end.

Welcome to the B2D club. DO NOT tell the other guys how fun we have it. I had my wheels custom made and they turned out great. Check out the picture on my account or I would be happy to post a picture. They were not cheap, but if this interests you I would be happy to put you in touch with the guy.

On 12/24/2018 at 10:35 AM, mmcdowel said:

Excuse my dirty garage please

Don't you hate it when someone talks about their "dirty" shop and then you go look at your dirty shop.?

This is driver side front and back view. I have not seen these for sale. They may be a salvage yard find. I just purchased something from VPW off of a donor truck. They still have a few donors and might have these (slim chance). Good luck! PS. This is on my 50 B2d.

1 hour ago, JPP said:

I had a very similar problem with my rebuild.  Changed everything start up no problem, idle no problem, but under load no so great.  What I discovered is that the wire to the coil was not getting the voltage it needed.  So i replaced that wiring and everything came alive.  The coil has input and out specs, easy to check with volt meter, i just waited for it to be way down on my list of causes.  Good Luck.

I agree with JPP. It certainly could be a clogged main jet, but I would still look at the coil. The spark test only shows there is spark. Use a voltmeter to ensure proper voltage.

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-test-a-spark-plug-ignition-coil-by-eduardo-ruelas

Does the engine bog under load or die? The fuel flow is strong ( a little high), so probably not locked. The cap could be partially blocked causing some pressure build up (but probably not). If my pump was dialed up that high my truck would run pretty rich, so maybe take another look at the carb. This still feels like a possible distributor issue (coil, condenser, points etc.). Just because they are new doesn't mean they are good. Did you completely tear the carb down and rebuild?

Since you have replaced most everything else, i infer the coil is new. You may still want to test it. Don't forget to check your timing after changing your plug gaps.