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Dennis Detweiler

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Everything posted by Dennis Detweiler

  1. I've tried the self method with the bottle. That's also in the 1939 shop manual. Problem is, every time you release the pedal you suck some air from around the bleeder screw threads. You can buy bleeder screws that have a factory sealant on the threads. I've also read, wrap bleeder screws with Teflon tape to avoid air leaking around the screw when releasing the brake pedal. One problem I see, which might be where the air is trapped at my front disc caliper, is the bleeder on my caliper is at about 11 o'clock position and my flexible hose is connected at 12 o'clock. So, removing the lower caliper mounting bolt and rotating the caliper up to get the bleeder at 12 o'clock top dead center, then bleed, might be the fix?
  2. Could be my new Wilwood master, but doubt it. I noticed a screw (plug) at the 12 o'clock position on my disc brake calipers. I've been corresponding with Scarebird today and asked if it's possible that the S-10 calipers have an alternative bleeder position? The current bleeder is at about 11 o'clock position. Rather than removing the caliper and rotating it to make the bleeder at 12 o'clock, maybe I need to switch the plug and bleeder, if that is an option. Or maybe just loosen the plug and let it burp until fluid starts oozing out? I should hear from Scarebird in the morning. Keeping my fingers crossed and hoping this is where the trapped air is located.
  3. I'll try loosening the calipers and make sure they're straight up and give that a try.
  4. The Wilwood master has bleeders built into the pedal (like a wheel cylinder) and directions say to mount it and make line connections before bleeding it. I'm getting pure fluid through the master bleeders now. I get pure fluid at each wheel cylinder after some initial air. I think the one man system of bleeding with a container on the floor, tubing to the wheel bleeder and some fluid in the container to begin with, allows air to be sucked back into the wheel cylinder by way of the threads of the wheel cylinder bleeder when you release the pedal each time. So, it's not the perfect method, even though the Plymouth manual shows to do it that way. I've never had a problem with the two man method in the 54 years of working on my own cars. I went through the process of two man method twice on this car and end up with the same results. I pumped 3 quarts of fluid through the system trying different methods with the same pedal results.
  5. I'm stumped! I've tried every method of bleeding and still can't get a good pedal. It's spongy and goes 3/4 of the way to the floor before I get brakes. I drove it up and down the driveway and applied the brakes and it's not even close to stopping on a dime. Can't lock up the wheels on gravel or in the grass. I did the two man bleed, reverse bleed, vacuum bleed and always started RR, LR, RF and LF. I had two 10 lb residual valves going to the rear drums (one in the master and one in-line and I removed the in-line residual. I have a 2 lb going to the front disc brake conversion. The Master is Wilwood 260-7563 one inch bore and using the remote reservoirs mounted on the firewall. New rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders. Brake shoes are adjusted to rubbing on the drums. Using a Wilwood proportioning valve within 12 inches of the master cylinder. No leaking brake lines. I followed the bleeding instructions for bleeding the master. It has bleeders on the side for each reservoir with instructions to mount the master and connect the lines before bleeding the master. The master is pumping pure brake fluid after the initial air came out. The front calipers and pads are 83 - 92 chevy S-10 4wd (Scarebird Conversion). Any ideas? A different master cylinder? Air trapped somewhere?
  6. Someone welded another exhaust port into my 201. So, it has dual exhaust, but not a true split manifold. The welding on the added port and the exhaust pipes is bad. So, I'm considering getting another manifold and going back to stock. The rest of the engine is stock.
  7. 218 has 3 1/4 bore. 201 has 3 1/8 bore. So, the manifolds will interchange? The 218 has the exhaust port between cylinders 5 & 6. My 201 exhaust port is at the rear. I would assume that will make no difference with a custom exhaust system?
  8. I contacted Wilwood and the rep said, having two residual valves (one in the master and one in-line) should cause no bleeding problems. So, I'll try bleeding the system by the two man method next week. If it still doesn't get a good pedal, I'll remove the residual in the master to rear reservoir.
  9. The Wilwood master has a 10lb residual in the front and rear reservoir outlet and factory ready for drum brakes. I removed the front master residual for my disc brakes and installed a 2 lb Wilwood residual in-line. I already had a 10 lb Wilwood residual installed in my rear line to the stock rear drum brakes. However, I left the 10 lb residual in the master rear outlet. Would two 10 lb residuals cause air to be trapped? I get good bleed out at the rear bleeders.
  10. The 1939 shop manual for bleeding the brakes doesn't mention doing anything with the brake adjustments. The information and picture just shows the one man system with a hose and jar setting on the floor.
  11. I've been bleeding the system by the book and the above mentioned methods. The only difference may be to try pumping the pedal up each time. I live alone, so have to recruit a helper.
  12. Yes, bleeders are on the top. No leaks in any of the lines. There must be air trapped somewhere in the lines? Getting it out seems to be a problem. When I use the old two man method, should I have the person in the car pump it several times before I open the bleeder each time? Maybe that will help?
  13. I have a Scarebird disc brake conversion on my 39 Plymouth. Stock rear axle with new wheel cylinders and shoes. Adjusted the top and bottom of the shoes to fit close tolerance to the drums (they rub). I just finished installing a Wilwood 8614 dual master cylinder, which has master bleeders on each reservoir to bleed the master. Bled the master to get solid fluid extracting. I jacked the front higher than the rear, then rear higher than the front to bleed the master to tip any air to the front and rear of the master. Also installed a Wilwood proportioning valve and 2 lb residual front and 10 lb residual rear. I've tried two self bleeding methods (one by using a siphoning cup from Harbor Freight to draw fluid through each bleeder). Tried the old fashioned method of connecting a hose to the bleeder and down into a waste container that has some fluid in the bottom to keep air from retracting backwards. I've run 2 quarts of fluid through the lines after several repetitive tries. I don't get a pedal until the pedal is half way to the floor and then it's spongy. My last attempt will be to have someone work the brake pedal while I open and close each bleeder....another old fashioned method that I've used on my cars with success in my younger days. Any input as to why I'm not getting a good solid pedal? It's about to drive me normal.
  14. I used the Wix mount and found several new filters for it on ebay for a reasonable price. I found that after you pull the drain plug on the oil pan, let the engine set for a day before removing the filter and I get no oil slopping down the sides of the filter.
  15. I found another post and picture of the felt gasket. It mounts on the front of the clutch cover. I assume it's to keep any dripping oil from blowing back into the clutch? I don't see this felt gasket in any of the complete engine gasket sets or as an individual gasket for purchase. So, I guess I'll have to find some felt of proper thickness and make one? Or, could I just clean up the front surface of the clutch cover and use silicone gasket maker in place of the felt?
  16. When I removed the oil pan on my 201 it was wedged front to back and I had to wiggle it loose. I made a dry run at installing it and don't have enough clearance front to rear. There's a thick oil soaked circular felt gasket/seal swelled out that keeps the pan from being a smooth installation. I'm fraying the felt if I try to force it. What's the trick to gain clearance to get the pan back into place? There's no wiggle room. Do I need to replace the felt seal/gasket? The shop manual doesn't mention anything about the felt.
  17. I'm in the process of brake lines today. Front disc brakes are finished. I left the residual rear outlet 10# valve factory installed in the Wilwood master cylinder. Since I already had a 10# Wilwood in-line residual valve, I used it coming out of the master cylinder, then went to the proportioning valve. Getting ready to install a new line from the proportioning valve to the rear flex line. Now my only question, is it ok to have two 10# residual valves incorporated into the rear brake line system? I would assume it won't make any difference (help or hinder)?
  18. I haven't dropped the pan yet, but took a closer look. I don't see a cork gasket around the pan. It looks like someone just used red gasket maker/sealer instead of a gasket. If so, it's likely been leaking from the lack of a stock gasket?
  19. My new Wilwood dual master cylinder comes with drum brake residual valves 10# front and rear. I removed the valve from the front reservoir and using a 2# Wilwood residual valve in-line for the front disc brakes. I have a Wilwood 10# residual valve for the rear. Do I need to remove the 10# internal residual valve from the master cylinder or can I just leave it in, giving me two 10# valves for the rear drum brakes? Should the proportioning valve be in front or behind the 10# residual valve in the rear brake line?
  20. Thanks for all the info. Much appreciated. I'm 70 and rotator cuffs are overdue for repair (job related wear). Overhead work is a booger under the car. Slow moving. I'm in the middle of connecting the Wilwood master cylinder and replacing a few lines, fittings and adapters. The steering gear is on it's way back from a rebuild and will be ready to install. Then, work on the pan and whatever has to be done along with it. When I bought the car, the owner said, the engine had 10,000 on a rebuild, but the sludge inside the oil pan drain hole seems a little thick for 10,000 miles? He had been running detergent oil. So, maybe the oil has been loosening old sludge from other areas of the engine and causing some buildup in the pan. I'll know more when I get the pan off.
  21. Not sure. If it's normal to have some drips, not puddles, then maybe not worth replacing the seals? Is it a difficult job to replace the upper and lower? Seems like every upgrade or repair leads to another while I'm in that vicinity. I've been working on the car for 1.5 years trying to get it road dependable. Almost there! Hoping to live long enough to drive it. lol
  22. 39 Plymouth 201. I'm going to drop the pan and clean out the sludge while I have the Steering gear out for a rebuild. Should I replace the lower rear main seal at the same time? It looks like it's been leaking and is swelled out from around the rear of the pan.
  23. The Wilwood remote reservoirs that came with it will be mounted on the firewall under the hood. Next is mounting some new brake lines and I want to move the flexible lines going to the front disc brakes to a better location for turning clearance. Likely all new copper/nickel lines on the front. I like the idea of the Wilwood bleeders on the master cylinder to eliminate the need to bench bleed. Just hook it all up, bleed the master in place, then the wheels. I have a proportioning valve on order. The 2# and 10# valves are already in place.
  24. Latest update photos. I had to install the old master cylinder on the other side of the frame mount to get the brake pedal to clear the new master cylinder custom mount. This created a conflict with the clutch pedal. So, I had to lop off some of the left side of the old master. This is what It looks like before I installed it into the car. I had to make a longer brake push rod to go through the old master and reach the new dual reservoir. So far, so good.....
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