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Forrest

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Everything posted by Forrest

  1. Thanks a bunch for the input. It helped a ton. I ended up using duplicolor aluminum cast coat engine paint (rattle can). It looks great. Not too bright.
  2. Hi Everyone, I just got my flathead back from the engine builder and would like to paint it the stock silver color, but can’t find a suitable engine paint. Everything I’ve found is either super bright aluminum or cast iron black. What types of SILVER have you used and how has it held up? How about intake and exhaust manifold paint too? Thanks a bunch.
  3. Update. I got the 8.25 rear end from a 1996 jeep Cherokee with 3:55 gears. Perfect width and bolt pattern. I had a spare rearend from a 1953 dodge with the same diameter tube as the Cherokee. Welded the spring perches and attached the lower shock mounts from the 53' and it bolted right up to my 1947 wc. The 1947 rear end tube is smaller and tapered so the spring purchase and lower shock mounts would require a lot more work to adapt than the 53' parts. With the new rear end having standard wheel studs, I drilled the front drums and inserted Dorman 610-258 studs to match. Next step is to connect the parking brake cables.
  4. I wanted to share a tool I made today to adjust front drum brakes. Utilizing an extra drum from a 1955??? Dodge truck, I was able to press out the wheel studs and separate the hub from the drum. Then welded a couple nuts to the hub. Drilled a square hole in a piece of steel plate and inserted a ½" carriage bolt and nut to complete the tool. It's so easy to use. 1) lay drum upside down and set the hub tool on top of the drum hub. 2) turn the bolt in or out until the inside edge of the plate is inline with the inside of the drum surface. 3) turn bolt 1/4 turn in and tighten nut to hold plate. 4) place tool on spindle (with bearings and castle nut) 5) adjust lower major adjustment bolts followed by minor adjustments. 6) rotate tool and adjust until desired clearance is achieved 7) remove tool and attach drum, check for drag, and readjust if necessary. Worked for me, hope someone can use this simple tool design to adjust their brakes, enjoy!
  5. Hi Everyone, I'm looking to lower my pickup a little bit as the previous owner had heavy duty leaf springs and big overloads in this ½ ton truck. He hauled a lot of dirt and gravel. My question is: How many leaves are in a typical or stock ½ ton front leaf spring? Mine currently has 8 and is 1 ¾" tall. If some are to be removed to lower/soften the ride which ones? In the rear I replaced the set of 9 with a set of 6 from a 1953 and it lowered it 2-3" (from super tall to normal-ish). With the 6 leaves in the rear can anymore be removed to drop even further? Thanks
  6. Hey Kevin, Not familiar, but I do have a friend down the street with a 1955 dodge he just put on a 4x4 S-10 Chassis. He'd probably recognize it. Hope you enjoyed your visit through our small logging town. Thanks for sharing.
  7. Awesome! Just what I needed to hear. Thanks a bunch.
  8. New to flatheads and I've heard rumors the 230 flathead is the same as the 218 but with different internal components. Can someone please elaborate? What parts would be needed to convert a 218 to a 230? Also are any parts from a 25" 237 spitfire industrial engine compatible with a 23" 218? Thanks.
  9. Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply. I'll go for the 8.25 3:55. BTW, any of you using the emergency brakes on the new rear end or still using the drive shaft brake? If so, curious as to your handle configuration.
  10. Hi Everyone, My name is Forrest from Shelton, WA and am new to the forum. I acquired a 1947 Dodge WC that is pretty much original including the 218 Flathead. I'm planning on changing the rear end to get better highway speed and newer rear brakes. I've found 2 rear ends locally that I can't seem to decide on. One is a Jeep Cherokee Crystler 8.25 with 3.55 gears and the other is also a Jeep Cherokee Dana 35 with 3.07 gears. Which would you choose? Thanks a bunch and look forward to picking your collective brains.
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