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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/09/2019 in Posts

  1. 15 points
    joecoozie

    Just HAD to buy this one....

    This came up and I HAD to buy it. I am partial to Woodie Wagons so I was a goner from the get-go
  2. 14 points
    Sam Buchanan

    Leaving the Nest

    Today my '48 P15 attained a milepost of sorts.....the first foray away from the shop to the other toy box. Thanks to many hours reading archives of your past posts and the helpful hints offered when I asked, the ol' girl smoothly and effortlessly made the 25-mile round trip on a four-lane highway to the hangar and back. She cruises nicely at 55mph and tracks straight down the highway. The only wiggles are due to returning the waves and thumbs-up from other motorists. There is still work to do (house training for one thing...) but after four months of bumper-to-bumper attention the P15 has awakened from its five-year nap and is now a real road car.
  3. 8 points
    tanda62

    She Runs!

    Got the assembly to the point of engine running for the 53 B4C. Dodge running.mp4
  4. 8 points
    couple more Tom's not afraid of no stinking mud puddle!
  5. 7 points
    jmooner3

    "Ol Blue" Build

    Hello Guys - I've been busy, got a few updates: first thing was the gas tank leak. I chose to take the inexpensive route first, I bought a tank refurb kit from Amazon made by POR (ive had great luck with their chassis paint) so I thought I'd give it a shot. Followed the directions to the letter and put tank back in truck last week. no leaks so far. Truck started up and drove great. I still need to replace the rear end as Merle suggested in this link, I've got to go find a set of 373s. The engine over heat appears to be good to go following the clean up, machining of head, and new head gasket. I also replaced my running boards, I had a set that were 4 inches too short and had installed a spacer. found a set that were about the same too long but bought them anyway, bent them back to shape, chased all threads, cut them down and welded them to size. installed and they look good. Also my truck did not have a rear bumper, I was going to make one out of box steel but decided to cut down and cut the curved ends off my parts truck front bumper, so I shortened it welded it up built a bracket and popped that on today. whatdya think?
  6. 7 points
    60steve

    P15 at VHRA vintage nat's UK

    Hi all ,went to the VHRA vintage nat's at santa pod here in the UK at the weekend, was the only Plymouth racing got 24 runs in all very consistent 15.2 - 15.4 ET and a best speed of 89.80 mph, Won my class and fastest in class.
  7. 7 points
  8. 6 points
    Bbdakota

    The Windward 48 dodge survivor

    Thought I'd start a thread documenting fixes, improvements, adventures and maintaining the 48. First I'd like to thank all members for the everyday answers to people's questions about these old cars. Before joining the forum, I found answers to many of my questions as I got use to maintaining the 48. So, thank you all! My wife and I wanted to buy a classic car to enjoy while I restored my 58 plymouth since I wasn't going to have the 58 done in time for crusin the coast (2017). The plan was to buy a car, use it until the 58 is done then sale it. So, we located this 48 about 6 hours away and drug it home!
  9. 6 points
  10. 6 points
    austinsailor

    A new one on me!

    Thought I knew a bit about cars. Found out I have a few gaps in my knowledge. My 24 dodge brothers clutch was dragging and chattering when I take off. Thought resurfacing it was in order. Being a multiple disk clutch, similar to a motorcycle, I knew it was going to be a bit different. Come to find out the factory method to try first to solve this is - really - to plug the drain hole in the clutch housing, fill it with gasoline and run it a bit. Once someone showed me an actual copy of the manual I figured, what the heck, it’s worth a try. Plugged the drain hole, pulled the floorboards and the inspection cover. Then I poured in about half a gallon of kerosene. No way in hell am I pouring gasoline in it to be flung all over! Kerosene ran out numerous places and I fired it up. It was kind of like a pump gone berserk - spraying everywhere. Poured in more, ran it through the gears for a bit (rear was on stands) then shut it off. Pulled the plug, more kerosene ran out. I took it for a drive. I can now shift from neutral to any gear with no grinding. Very little chatter as I take off. Slips just a bit where it didn’t before, but that was less after a 3 mile drive. I suspect with gasoline it would leave the plates not so slippery, if you didn’t blow yourself up, but I think the kero will evaporate in a little time and be fine. What the heck will I learn next???
  11. 6 points
    sorry not this year..... but, if it helps I had my wife video my "walk of shame" as I pull off the trailer back home oh yeah, a little "pre- BBQ" test run...... (John-t let ggdad1951 and myself drive his truck this year!) T-5's ROCK!!!!
  12. 6 points
    First, it's his car and he can do whatever he wants. Second, he is asking for help. If you have something productive to add, please join the conversation. Third, if you disagree with his approach you may state your reasons in a respectful manner, never forgetting it's his car and he can do what he pleases. Lastly, he is welcome on the site and to ask these types of questions. Maybe if you present a logical and respectful argument he will consider other option. Or you will get a better understanding of why he wants to follow a particular approach. Enough of this bickering, thread locked.
  13. 6 points
    Jesus guys,....give'm a break! Get a life. Oldtime,...hang in there. Many in this group (especially those that comment a lot) get their shorts in a bunch at anything non stock. One even stressed about a water pump with a grease nipple where the stocker had none,....or maybe it was the other way around???? I would only add,....re the 8 & 3/4" rearend, there are many 8 &1/4" Mopar rearends available and cheap and many a direct bolt-in. Plenty robust and yields the same bolt pattern.as the front or Ford wheels. Just gett'r done and enjoy with your family.!
  14. 6 points
    and yes ggdad1951 got to work on a truck after all this year... (assisting John- T)
  15. 5 points
    CO54

    It begins on the 54 C1C

    Finally got the majority of projects at the house wrapped up, so we pulled the truck of my in-laws property yesterday. Got it weighed 3320#, dropped it at the house and headed to the DMV, was an out of state purchase that required multiple different items to get a clear CO title. With that being said and done, the banging of knuckles began.
  16. 5 points
  17. 5 points
    CO54

    It begins on the 54 C1C

  18. 5 points
    And here's ggdad1951 receiving his award, "Key to the Ranch" (wire cutters) I think for his many contributions with preparations and otherwise being a swell guy.
  19. 5 points
  20. 5 points
    I think you and others have never read the logo for this site. Now you and others on this thread have successfully driven off a new forum member, it's a wonder this forum is still alive with posts like this. Perhaps you, and you know who you are here, should stay on the POC forum? Isn't that the zero tolerance place? If the guy wants to drop a SBC in it, that's his business. What isn't cool is some here just can't accept anything but stockers.... This site is for both!
  21. 5 points
  22. 5 points
    HotRodTractor

    Carburetor Jetting

    Thank you - may I inquire as to who sells jets that I can buy a sampling of? I appreciate the idealistic approach to just using real gasoline, unfortunately that is simply not a realistic approach if someone wants to take nice long road trips and be able to get gas at readily available and convenient locations. Yes - I know there is something like 100 different gasoline formulations available in the US based on region, time of year, elevation, etc... will the state of tune be 100% perfect all the time everywhere - of course not, but it will be usable and good enough. I knew that Grose had passed on, but I have seen his jets for other carbs reproduced and was hoping there also an equivalent readily available for our Carters. I'm not surprised that there isn't. I'd love to get a copy of the D6G1 sheets if available. I have many others, but I lack that one and since that is what I have a pair of on the car, it would be nice to know what the stock factory parts are exactly. Also thanks for the center section information. I have not looked that closely at the carbs yet. I didn't think the jets were the same, but though my limited observations I found lots of 159 series info, little 224 series info. Yes I agree - carb bores ultimately control what the carb is capable of. That is the airflow control, the jets simply meter gas into the flow - and hopefully at the desired air/fuel ratios. You setup the airflow, then you adjust your jetting to get to a target. Ironically you state that I am factually incorrect, but then turn around and make my exact argument. Ball and Ball carbs are not as well supported in the aftermarket either for stock tune up parts or aftermarket vintage race tuning components simply because of the wonderful number of variations that are present. The built each carb to the intended application back in the day and it made it hard to simply take just any Ball & Ball carb and do x, y, and z to it and get the desired results like you could with say the ever popular Stromberg 97. Its variety in a way lead to its downfall in long term aftermarket support. There are at least 2 (maybe more) manufacturers making brand new 97 carbs today, I highly doubt anyone is considering tooling up to make a run of brand new Ball & Ball carbs. I'm not saying variety is a bad thing - I like variety as it gives a ton of options - but that also leads to lots of complications. Case in point - jetting - which this thread is about. I have yet to find a jet chart that lists all the part numbers, flow rates (and the info on the test conditions. ie gas at Xpsi over the course of a minute or whatever), and orifice sizes. A quick Google search and there is piles of documentation and PDF documents on tuning 97s. Yes - while my interest in documenting carb components is somewhat self serving (tuning my own carbs) - its documentation that I intended on sharing with the community as a whole. This thread simply started as a way of compiling jet information, and granted I asked about the cut sheets for carbs I own and lack the information on. The whole mixing and matching of carb parts to try and build something else came in later. Perhaps my car is tuned to the nth degree and its perfect. Perhaps not. In any case I still plan on compiling information to aid myself and assist others that want to make their cars the best they can be for themselves. No offense taken - I can only ask for help gathering jet information and attempt to keep the thread steered in that exact path. Mixing and matching carb body components is a whole different level and thread topic. And as far as being an expert - if you would like to discuss the multistate physics of atomizing an incompressible fluid into an compressible fluid - I'm game - its literally my job. Quite frankly for what I am after, writing a custom OpenFOAM script just seems like a waste of time when I just need to go a hole size or two bigger or smaller to achieve what I want. Perhaps I came off a bit harsh - but I really wanted to keep this thread simple and about the jetting. Enjoy your occasional, if unenjoyable, visit to this site. I'm sure that if this was a conversation in person it wouldn't go this way and it could be perfectly civil and rewarding for both over a beer.
  23. 4 points
    I've been perusing around the forum for a couple of weeks while doing research on the 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe before I purchased it. My wants was a running and driving classic car that I could take to car shows, and I didn't want to spend a fortune on the purchase price. I ran across the Plymouth on Craigslist, went for a test drive and fell in love. Overall the car is in pretty good shape. The paint job and interior refresh is probably 10-15 years old, so there's some scratches and things in the paint and the interior has some places where the seams are coming apart. I'm currently going through and greasing things that need to be greased, added a little brake fluid, replaced the generator wires because the insulation was gone. There's some rust on the drivers side rocker panel underneath. Someone previously fixed some of the floor pans, but did a shotty job, so will look at that in a few years. The engine looks mostly original. It's still running oil bath air cleaner and 6 volt system with the generator. The engine belt has a slight tear, so I bought a replacement. The replacement looks to not be quite as wide, so I'll have to figure that one out. I bought the service manual off of Rock Auto, which helps tremendously. I want to keep the car mostly original. I love to tinker with things, so this should be fun. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions. Updates: 4-12-19 -new spark plugs -Replaced generator wires 8-26-19 -6 new wheel cylinders -all new brake shoes -New rubber brake lines -2 new steel brake lines off the master cylinder -new master cylinder -replaced windshield wipers -replaced belt (had a tractor belt on the car) -fixed driver door lock (just took apart and put back together and it worked) -changed all fluids (seems to be self leveling with the leaks, lol) -added oil filter (was empty) -replaced rubber fuel line (started leaking in the garage) -added third brake light (6 volt led) -added rear turn signals -new battery (old one wasn't holding a charge) -cleaned up the trunk -added USB mobile phone charger (yes, it worked on 6 volts) Still needed: -new tires (going to stay with the 215/75R15), would love to go full white-wall if the prices weren't so high. I have found some that have a little larger white-wall. -add turn signal lamp and socket to factory location -drivers door stop (found in the door, need to make a new one) -new stop light lenses (seems to be hard to find) -new trunk lock (another hard to find, the ones I do find are so expensive) -wiring (may work on this this winter) -seat belts
  24. 4 points
    Bbdakota

    The Windward 48 dodge survivor

    Thanks! The car photographs with my phone and lot better then it looks in person. There's areas where the paint has chipped and surface rust, the chrome is showing a good bit of age.....the roof has a dent....but I'm going to drive, maintain and enjoy it the way it is. Reading others post like Worden 18 has got me inspired to drive it more often then I do. Here's a b&w in front of some homes built in the late 20's or at least the brick one.
  25. 4 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Easter Humor

  26. 4 points
    Here's another batch:
  27. 4 points
    Bob Riding

    Just HAD to buy this one....

    I have a '40 Plymouth wagon and struggled with the original color scheme. It was a total basket case so leaving it as it was was not an option. It came from Chrysler beige with blond wood, yellow bracketry and hardware and a tan top, with blackwalls, which was Plymouth's only option that year. The wife wanted a pretty color, so we opted for Brewster Green (a GM truck color from the '40s) with contrasting wood. In 1941 you could get multiple body colors and two tone wood (blond ash with mahogany panels) Because it spent it's life on a turkey ranch in Tonopah Nevada, delivering birds and eggs - it was considered the delivery van of it's day and so didn't warrant all the fancy color schemes, etc. After seeing your wagon, I almost wish I had stayed stock.Your wagon's color scheme reminds me of vintage postcards showing street scenes of the 1940' and 50s. - very cool! I agree that you should leave it as original as possible (6 volt, stock motor, etc) but the two best "hidden upgrades" that you can make are front disk brakes, which can be done without lowering the vehicle, and bias-look radial tires. My dad always said to me (during my wild teenage years) "you may want upgrades, but but you only need two things- good tires and brakes"
  28. 4 points
    Here's a few more shots:
  29. 4 points
    James_Douglas

    Carburetor Jetting

    There is an old trick ... if you cannot find a jet and need to get it larger....one thing, do not drill it. Take a little piece of plywood. Drill a hole that you can mount the jet into. Have someone hold a funnel over the jet and pour water in the funnel. water will run out the bottom of the jet, through the plywood it is mounted in. Stick a cup into the stream and keep it there for exactly one minute. Measure the water in CC's. Then take a pipe cleaner and soak it with course valve lapping compound. Run it through the jet back and forth at 12-3-6-9 with a sea-sawing motion. What will happen to the brass is that you will open the jet while keeping the basic contour. That contour is important that is why drilling does not work correctly. You then measure again until you get the CC you want. Then do a final pass with fine valve lapping compound to smooth it out. Check one last time and use it. This takes some time, but you can increase a jet using this method. You can go into the engineering books and read on how the shape and the curve of a jet is very important. That is why drilling will cause issues. The above will work fine if you are careful as it will take an equal amount of material off the walls of the jet. James
  30. 4 points
    Another Sunday drive after being gone for 2 weeks. It looked like this when we left, picture from dad following me. Looked like this a couple of hours later. All in all put about 100 miles on the cars yesterday.
  31. 4 points
    Rinsed off the Hammond Rd dirt and mud and went to get some gas and ice cream on Sunday. Bumped into a Mopar Muscle guy at the ice cream shop - he was all excited when I popped the hood to show a dual carb'd flathead. I was going to take some pictures of the car in downtown West Liberty - but rain (and tornado warnings) chased us back home before that happened.
  32. 4 points
    Look guys it’s all fine. I was not trying to open Pandora’s box with my asking some guidance from others who are more knowledgeable on my task at hand. my comment was the entire post since it obviously has caused an issue. But I’m fine with leaving it up. Doesn’t bother me. i was recommended to come to this website for assistance. In my spare time from family and kids I use my iPhone to look at hobby stuff so sometimes it’s difficult to navigate. Perhaps I picked wrong forum on here, or wrong site all together. But there are knowledgeable people everywhere As I said, I get it that everyone has an opinion and that’s okay. It’s just one thing to express your view and leave it at that. I thank the latest posters who had some helpful items to look at. and yes, my cousin has done some stuff like this to other cars so it will be done as professional as can be as he’s very good. thank you
  33. 4 points
    I agree with some on the SBC I have a 50 Ply. with one . (I now wish I kept the flat six now as I probably would be driving it now instead of 75% finished after 15 years) . I do know and have watched for years now on this forum a small bock Mopar motor would be so much more welcomed on this here than the Chevy. I kno0w and understand his reason for this and some support to get another old Mopar on the road is Good. Adam, I hope you can somehow send him a Mailing of you last post and welcome back to this forum! I see both sides of this But no reason to bust someones balls over Their choice! JMO! DJ
  34. 4 points
    59bisquik

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    First trip out in a year.
  35. 4 points
    Cyama

    1955 C series assessment

    I made a quick trip to the BBQ at Tim's on Saturday and met some great guys on this forum. They suggested I join and post some pics of the '55 that I am working on. I would like to get this truck on its feet, and looking for some help finding parts to complete it. Bumpers, tailights, and emblems as well as details like the horn button would be helpful. Resources to complete the interior would be a great help too! Driver quality parts are fine with me, since I just want to make it complete. The rear bumper doesn't have to be factory. The Barden bumper farmer style bumper is cool with me too. I would also like to get an idea if this truck has been altered. It seems fairly original, but I'm not sure about the spare tire carrier and and the V8 painting on the tailgate. Thanks!
  36. 4 points
    This is the first of several upgrades..... 48D
  37. 4 points
    Another great bbq as always. Tim and Steph a gracious hosts. Amazing sunsets and rises and view of the Sierras. Loved waking up to the sound of grazing cows. Here is a photo of apple orchards not far from the ranch. See you next year.
  38. 3 points
    I had to work today so no transmission install. Tomorrow is supposed to rain but we’ll see. I did get time to finish the door card installation with armrests cranks and handles. I had to drill new holes in the square drives to account for the thicker cards. It feels solid and looks right to me. Now I’m thinking matching kick panels soon and headliner later.
  39. 3 points
    Eneto-55

    Cargo Container Shed

    To quote my grandpa (who passed away in 1973), "I wish I had one like that and you had one better." (He, being a farmer all of his life, of course said: "I wish I had a barn like that and he had one better." It was his way of not being jealous....)
  40. 3 points
    DrDoctor

    Stuff for sale ??

    Apparently not enough revenue from the overabundance of ads . . . No charge to someone who’s trying to buy something, but a charge to those who’re trying to sell something. So, the seller’s stop posting, and the site becomes just that much less user friendly. Oh well, that seems to be the way things are going all over the place these days. Just sayin’ . . . . . Hmmm . . . I wonder how long this comment will remain alive . . .
  41. 3 points
    when they come to you like that....its a OMEN..! Long ago a friend asked me to appraise a car for his mother, kinda outside the collector years at the time but being an unmolested two door car I told her what she could expect for the car should she find a buyer, the type that, hey may dad had one like this. Couple months later I was told to come get the car for a ridiculous low price because his mother like the honest appraisal I gave her. My problem is I know how to buy, I can't seem to get a handle on the selling side...
  42. 3 points
    I drive both of these every weekend ,unless its snowing!
  43. 3 points
  44. 3 points
    Hey List OLS, Your car, your money, your the piper who calls the tune. Dont expect a group dedicated to Flathead Mopars to dance to your music. This is a Mopar site and you come here flexing a 350 sbc transplant, might be some backlash. I realize it aint a Duesenberg, but it ain't a 49 chebby either. Many on here would feel as I do but might not voice it, I did. Go to the HAMB or Chevy Talk or a streetrod site like Hotrodders Bulletin might be a whole lot more info on this type of swap. I realize reading added posts you have your reasons for this. Again your car, your choice whether I agree or not. Enuff said.
  45. 3 points
    I owned a 50 Plymouth business coupe back in the 80s. You have a nice car! Good luck with it. P.S. Don't make the mistake of tearing the whole car apart and attempting a ground up restoration just to say it's had a Ground up restoration! Keep it running!
  46. 3 points
  47. 3 points
  48. 3 points
  49. 3 points
    oldasdirt

    Carburetor Jetting

    1) yes 2) just changing jets is not a solution to running ethanol tossed into gas. Using real gasoline is the solution. 3) no Ansel Grose died, and no one has produced the jets since nor will you find it easy to find them. 4) I am sure I do, but a d6g1 which is a 1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi carb is not an island on to its own. Your center sections are more important that the top which can be and is often changed around. As taken from a document I have from Tim Kingsbury - 3 bolt – center section is 660 for Plymouth – starting 1950 2 bolt – center section is 635 - 1949 only 2 bolt – center section is 370 - 1939 – 1948 Answer - no they are not THe carb you have purchased has 1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi. The main and other jetting can be changed but there is no getting around the throttle bore and venturi size as I think 55Fargo was eluding to. Sorry your last statement is just factually incorrect. Carter ball and ball made carbs for specific purposes and specifications and they provided carbs based on what their customers wanted. A stromberg 81 or 97 were carbs that the carb maker said - here is what we have.. its great, it will do what you want. sounds like another automotive guy - Henry Ford.. If he had. The three carbs you reference number in them are the cfm of the carb. In the case of carter ball and ball they not only ranged way lower and way higher in cfm but they also addressed various torque curves and transmission options that manufacturers would come up with. his way a model t would still be the only car you would need and its color would be black. I see so this thread went from you were documenting carb components which i had some interest in digging out all my carter ball and ball books, to your the expert and your using this to tune your dual carbs this summer.. rofl.. I also see you have bought Don C car which I am sure must be tuned to the nth degree because it was dons. Thanks for the laughs folks.. It reminds me why I dont spend much time on this site anymore. No offense and best of luck
  50. 3 points
    3” dropped rear springs 2” blocks. Stock front. Going to lop off a coil this weekend.
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