Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    Sam Buchanan

    Leaving the Nest

    Today my '48 P15 attained a milepost of sorts.....the first foray away from the shop to the other toy box. Thanks to many hours reading archives of your past posts and the helpful hints offered when I asked, the ol' girl smoothly and effortlessly made the 25-mile round trip on a four-lane highway to the hangar and back. She cruises nicely at 55mph and tracks straight down the highway. The only wiggles are due to returning the waves and thumbs-up from other motorists. There is still work to do (house training for one thing...) but after four months of bumper-to-bumper attention the P15 has awakened from its five-year nap and is now a real road car.
  2. 11 points
    Pete

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    My 1938 Dodge Brothers RC half ton. Picture taken about 20 years ago. It's seen a lot of work since then. Pete
  3. 10 points
    derbydad276

    introduction

    new guy with a new toy 1953 Dodge Coronet ... barn car 33 k original miles came with a parts car
  4. 8 points
    couple more Tom's not afraid of no stinking mud puddle!
  5. 8 points
    I checked the brakes and steering and went down to the corner and back. It is not always easy to start so I didn’t want to walk home and my kid is in the house watching cartoons after dinner. I was more than a little nervous but the rusty rotors worked ok and the steering was pretty good too- a little more effort than the over-assisted 70s muscle cars I’m used to but nice. I live on top of a small hill in the middle of my block and it’s a 2 lane street that narrows when people park on the sides so I was just concentrating on making it home without killing the motor or finding a terrible problem the hard way. It’s got a loud thrum at idle that will take some dynamat to cure but it never threatened to die. The turning radius was decent (should be for a shortened dakota) and the power brakes seem to be working ok? Not amazing. Breaking them in from their slumber will help but the actual braking happens after a good bit of free travel and requires some force on the pedal. Maybe I will eventually go to a smaller bore master but time will tell. I’m super glad I extended the floor forward under the pedal so it could have more travel without a higher starting point. I hardly looked at the gauges but on the way back up the hill I gave it half throttle and good lord she’s got some stink! BIG milestone today.
  6. 8 points
    greg g

    New business for business coupe

  7. 7 points
  8. 7 points
    Just came in this afternoon. Serial number 003. If I can get past the cancer,I hope to put it in the dead stock 33 Dodge shown in the photos,and drive it around and enjoy the HELL out of it just like you see it in the photos. This was the type of car I used to see running around when I was a kid that you could buy and enjoy for 50 bucks because I had some hope of one day having 50 bucks. Had and still have practically zero interest in new cars,but I LOVED the hell out of stuff from the 30's and 40's. I will never win any prizes at car shows or runs with it,but you can bet there will be nobody there having more fun than me. Had a local guy ask me last year if I knew anybody interested in buying the good running 251 6 out of his 51 DeSoto for 250 bucks,so I snapped it up and it is now sitting on my garage floor next to the 33 Dodge. I also have dual carb aluminum intake and carbs for it. About the only piece I am missing that I can think of is a set of cast iron headers. so I can run duals. I prefer the sound of the cast iron over the tubular headers. Every time I think about this I want to stop what I am doing and do a little happy dance.
  9. 7 points
    hkestes41

    Cool P15 Photo

    Cool old photo I found on another site. P15 Police Cars.
  10. 6 points
    falconvan

    1958 Dodge utility truck

    I found this in Kentucky; its a 58 Dodge utility truck that was retired from a local fire department several years back. Other than some rust here and there and a bad repaint this thing is solid as a rock and runs and drives really nice for a 61 year old truck. 230 inch flathead with a four speed. Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet; the guy i got it from had it licensed and used it for a weekend cruiser. For now I'll probably just put a new factory floor mat in it, replace the dry rotted tires, find some matching hubcaps, and cruise it to the local shows.
  11. 6 points
    and yes ggdad1951 got to work on a truck after all this year... (assisting John- T)
  12. 6 points
    My experience is a bit different. Dual Webers, shorty headers into a single 2.25 exhaust made a noticeable difference with no internal engine mods.
  13. 5 points
  14. 5 points
    HotRodTractor

    Carburetor Jetting

    Thank you - may I inquire as to who sells jets that I can buy a sampling of? I appreciate the idealistic approach to just using real gasoline, unfortunately that is simply not a realistic approach if someone wants to take nice long road trips and be able to get gas at readily available and convenient locations. Yes - I know there is something like 100 different gasoline formulations available in the US based on region, time of year, elevation, etc... will the state of tune be 100% perfect all the time everywhere - of course not, but it will be usable and good enough. I knew that Grose had passed on, but I have seen his jets for other carbs reproduced and was hoping there also an equivalent readily available for our Carters. I'm not surprised that there isn't. I'd love to get a copy of the D6G1 sheets if available. I have many others, but I lack that one and since that is what I have a pair of on the car, it would be nice to know what the stock factory parts are exactly. Also thanks for the center section information. I have not looked that closely at the carbs yet. I didn't think the jets were the same, but though my limited observations I found lots of 159 series info, little 224 series info. Yes I agree - carb bores ultimately control what the carb is capable of. That is the airflow control, the jets simply meter gas into the flow - and hopefully at the desired air/fuel ratios. You setup the airflow, then you adjust your jetting to get to a target. Ironically you state that I am factually incorrect, but then turn around and make my exact argument. Ball and Ball carbs are not as well supported in the aftermarket either for stock tune up parts or aftermarket vintage race tuning components simply because of the wonderful number of variations that are present. The built each carb to the intended application back in the day and it made it hard to simply take just any Ball & Ball carb and do x, y, and z to it and get the desired results like you could with say the ever popular Stromberg 97. Its variety in a way lead to its downfall in long term aftermarket support. There are at least 2 (maybe more) manufacturers making brand new 97 carbs today, I highly doubt anyone is considering tooling up to make a run of brand new Ball & Ball carbs. I'm not saying variety is a bad thing - I like variety as it gives a ton of options - but that also leads to lots of complications. Case in point - jetting - which this thread is about. I have yet to find a jet chart that lists all the part numbers, flow rates (and the info on the test conditions. ie gas at Xpsi over the course of a minute or whatever), and orifice sizes. A quick Google search and there is piles of documentation and PDF documents on tuning 97s. Yes - while my interest in documenting carb components is somewhat self serving (tuning my own carbs) - its documentation that I intended on sharing with the community as a whole. This thread simply started as a way of compiling jet information, and granted I asked about the cut sheets for carbs I own and lack the information on. The whole mixing and matching of carb parts to try and build something else came in later. Perhaps my car is tuned to the nth degree and its perfect. Perhaps not. In any case I still plan on compiling information to aid myself and assist others that want to make their cars the best they can be for themselves. No offense taken - I can only ask for help gathering jet information and attempt to keep the thread steered in that exact path. Mixing and matching carb body components is a whole different level and thread topic. And as far as being an expert - if you would like to discuss the multistate physics of atomizing an incompressible fluid into an compressible fluid - I'm game - its literally my job. Quite frankly for what I am after, writing a custom OpenFOAM script just seems like a waste of time when I just need to go a hole size or two bigger or smaller to achieve what I want. Perhaps I came off a bit harsh - but I really wanted to keep this thread simple and about the jetting. Enjoy your occasional, if unenjoyable, visit to this site. I'm sure that if this was a conversation in person it wouldn't go this way and it could be perfectly civil and rewarding for both over a beer.
  15. 5 points
    Beer darts are for sissys. Time to step up!
  16. 5 points
    Dodgeb4ya

    Turn Signal switch replacement

    Make sure you have both springs shown in the picture otherwise it won't cancel or operate correctly...
  17. 5 points
    Todd B

    severe storms in AL/GA

    What was the cause of bad storms 100 years ago????????
  18. 5 points
    Shave the head, two carbs and duals, with a slightly bigger cam than stock.....that will perk it right up if you damage anything with that simple combo then its operator error. All for less than $1,500.......
  19. 4 points
    I've been perusing around the forum for a couple of weeks while doing research on the 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe before I purchased it. My wants was a running and driving classic car that I could take to car shows, and I didn't want to spend a fortune on the purchase price. I ran across the Plymouth on Craigslist, went for a test drive and fell in love. Overall the car is in pretty good shape. The paint job and interior refresh is probably 10-15 years old, so there's some scratches and things in the paint and the interior has some places where the seams are coming apart. I'm currently going through and greasing things that need to be greased, added a little brake fluid, replaced the generator wires because the insulation was gone. There's some rust on the drivers side rocker panel underneath. Someone previously fixed some of the floor pans, but did a shotty job, so will look at that in a few years. The engine looks mostly original. It's still running oil bath air cleaner and 6 volt system with the generator. The engine belt has a slight tear, so I bought a replacement. The replacement looks to not be quite as wide, so I'll have to figure that one out. I bought the service manual off of Rock Auto, which helps tremendously. I want to keep the car mostly original. I love to tinker with things, so this should be fun. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions. Updates: 4-12-19 -new spark plugs -Replaced generator wires 8-26-19 -6 new wheel cylinders -all new brake shoes -New rubber brake lines -2 new steel brake lines off the master cylinder -new master cylinder -replaced windshield wipers -replaced belt (had a tractor belt on the car) -fixed driver door lock (just took apart and put back together and it worked) -changed all fluids (seems to be self leveling with the leaks, lol) -added oil filter (was empty) -replaced rubber fuel line (started leaking in the garage) -added third brake light (6 volt led) -added rear turn signals -new battery (old one wasn't holding a charge) -cleaned up the trunk -added USB mobile phone charger (yes, it worked on 6 volts) Still needed: -new tires (going to stay with the 215/75R15), would love to go full white-wall if the prices weren't so high. I have found some that have a little larger white-wall. -add turn signal lamp and socket to factory location -drivers door stop (found in the door, need to make a new one) -new stop light lenses (seems to be hard to find) -new trunk lock (another hard to find, the ones I do find are so expensive) -wiring (may work on this this winter) -seat belts
  20. 4 points
    Another great bbq as always. Tim and Steph a gracious hosts. Amazing sunsets and rises and view of the Sierras. Loved waking up to the sound of grazing cows. Here is a photo of apple orchards not far from the ranch. See you next year.
  21. 4 points
  22. 4 points
    Well the day actually arrived, "Tug" is moving under his own power for the first time in about 20 years 🙂
  23. 4 points
    falconvan

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Just picked this up; 58 Dodge utility
  24. 4 points
    TodFitch

    Dash Cam

    About 5 years ago I was in a collision with a vehicle that ran a red light. Fortunately I gathered enough information at the scene to prove the other driver was at fault and their insurance covered the repairs to my car. But I realized how close I came to a “he said, she said” situation so I bought a dash cam for my daily driver. As time as marched on, I began to realize that I feel unprotected if I am driving a vehicle without a dash cam so I finally decided to install one in my ’33 Plymouth. I’d already mounted a 6v positive ground to 12v negative ground inverter under the dash to run a cell phone charger and it has a lot more capacity than needed to run a dash camera too. And I had a “hard wire kit” for installing a dash cam taken out of our old car. All I needed was a compatible GPS mount for the dash cam I have in the daily driver. Today I installed that. The first test has the camera aimed a bit low. And YouTube seems to have cropped in an greatly reduced the resolution, but you can see my test at https://youtu.be/RnQhnx1WqpM The original is 1080p and is a lot clearer than the YouTube one.
  25. 4 points
    ggdad1951

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    I little pre-work morning pic of Art
  26. 4 points
    James_Douglas

    Steering Box

    There is a very funny story about that... So, when I was 10 about six months before my father died in 1970 dad told my mother that the "worm" gear in her beloved 1949 Desoto was bad and parts were no longer available. So they sold the car to a collector who put it in a closed dry shop with 20 other cars for decades... When I was 15 I had a Ford Model "A" coupe. It was a hot rod project that I had purchased. It had a Ford Gemmer Steering box in from a late '40 ford truck. I took that box apart and the worm gear was worn. I looked at a neighbors Hollander Interchange book and saw that a bunch of different years Ford used the gear. So, this is about 1975 and I head down into the little farming town I grew up in and go to the Ford Dealers Parts Desk. I ask the kid at the counter if he has a worm gear for a 1948 Ford truck. He immediately says we don't have parts for that far back. I hear a grunt from a older man at the rear of the parts counter room who stands up and says, "wait a minute". I hear him go up into the loft above the parts counter. About 10 minutes later he walks up to the counter with an arm full of worm gears with the shafts. He looked over mine and sorts through them and says, "here you go this is the one". Turns out that the apple farmers tended to wipe out there steering boxes in the soft soil of the orchards and they used to always carry a number of spare parts for them. The kid says what do I charge him as it is not in the system. He tell the kid, "what does the tag say". It was $5 or something like that. So that is what I paid. I went home and told mom how I had gotten a new steering gear for $5. I then told her is was the exact same gear that was needed for her beloved Desoto. She got so mad and said if that God Dammed Greek Sea Captain father of yours was still alive, I would kill him! She really loved that car. Of course the story does not end there. In 2010 I managed to get the car back. It had been sitting since the day that they sold it in the back of that shop. The irony in the story. When I took it apart the steering gears looked fine. The front right king pin was worn a lot and that is what the steering problem was. Any shop could have fixed it in no time. Mom died in 1985. She would never would know that dad just wanted "the old car" gone. I smiled when I managed to get second in my class at Hillsborough a couple of years back. She would have loved that.
  27. 4 points
    Redoing someone else's work is more expensive than starting from "scratch" yourself...... If its not running, looks cobbled together and has (what I call ) untested upgrades.... Look into starting from scratch yourself and see where the cost falls. Dakota frame engine A non running 51-53 truck with 90% of parts The ability to bring it together ( tools, funds or both) It'll be a matter of which truck wins....a truck with a multitude of problems and unknowns... Or carefully bringing together a proven design that you would happy to drive your family around in. A truck like this one might require a multiple of shake downs, tear downs and....(hoping against) breakdowns. This truck (based on parts alone) might be worth 4500, if you can put it through the paces and prove its safe for family. Otherwise.....its an expensive parts truck. 48D
  28. 4 points
    Jomani

    Cabbage Hauler - WD-21 Build Thread

    The more I thought about the wheels, the more I knew they needed something. With a couple of hours of daylight left, I pulled out the orange paint I used on the trim and found an old pinstriping brush that I picked up many years ago. I have never tried pinstriping - another first on this build. I think I am happy with that. Good thing my wife didn’t catch me using the dining room table.
  29. 4 points
    Almost done breaking in the cam/lifters but my lower rad hose sprung a leak so I idled it down so it wouldn’t diesel on shutdown. It only idled for less than 10 secs but I recorded it! I can see the conversation now- “what’s that got in it?!” “It’s a (cough cough) stock flathead motor with exhaust and a cold air intake” hahah It sounds a little nastier than I expected!
  30. 4 points
    48Dodger

    questions about paint

    .......You have up to 12-16 hours for a chemical bond between bc/cc. if you go longer, you need a mechanical bond (sanding). Most failures are due to improper prep and this is even true of manufacturers. The 90's saw very thin color and clear coats to save money and pollution numbers. It led to early clear coat failures. In the case of the home job, not sanding primers properly leads to adhesion problems. Most people I know who paint at home really miss this part. Color is high maintenance, it needs a well sanded surface to grab it right. Wet sanding 400-600 is tedious and a pain in the ass....but necessary. IMO...... Zero in on the hood. Why? its flat. PRIMER PREP Sand it with 80, 120......shoot 2 coats of Epoxy primer (high in resin, not ideal for sanding) This will seal it off from the next layer so it doesn't react with the new chemicals coming its way. PRIMER SHAPE Shoot several coats of Urethane primer(sanding and shaping qualities), let it dry over several hours. Shoot a guide coat....a real can called "guide coat" ....a can of black paint defeats the purpose. Guide coat is your friend...it doesn't lie...it will show you where you didn't sand, and it wont steal your beer. Start with 220, finish with minimum of 400. Blow it off, wax and grease it (since this is a practice piece you can use windex ) Shoot a thin coat of Epoxy coat as a sealer, let it gas off 30 mins COLOR (base coat..bc) Shoot the edges first, not going to thick. Shoot color on the hood in an even manner not worrying about complete coverage...just blush it out and "drag" across the edges again. Shoot a second coat 30 mins later, execute complete coverage. Shoot a third coat 30 mins later, crossing up the first pattern slightly and watching for evenness, flow and coverage. let is gas off for several hours and fix all the mistakes that snuck in because you don't have a spray booth. Brush touch, fish eye, to thick, sags, bugs....fix'em all. spray any small repair areas out and be careful not to over coat it. Just feather it back in. CLEAR (clear coat..cc) Spraying clear is like spraying single stage color. You need to watch it flow, and grow together with each pass. Learn to be direct and in control of the flow. Don't try and spot it in, use big long flowing motions. It will allow the clear to flow together much better and avoid dry areas that need lots of sanding. Clear is usually 3 coats so its thick enough to cut and buff..... another crappy job. If you flow your clear right, it will reduce the pain of doing that job. Reasons I say a hood: Its a flat surface to spray (doors are vertical etc), its big enough to practice sweeping the gun and a large enough surface to better judge your work. Good luck! 48D
  31. 4 points
    I filed the paperwork at the DMV this morning. All I need now it to get a weight certificate and they will issue me a new title - Yay!!!
  32. 4 points
    I got my dipstick tube secured to a header bolt, felt for compression and got #1 a few degrees before tdc, and ran all the sparkplug wires. I have to go open my shop in a little bit so no priming the fuel system and breaking in the cam (hopefully tomorrow) but I wanted to check and see if it would light off so I sprayed a shot of ether down the carb and turned the key. She spoke! Baby’s first words! No more cranking till I can get serious with the timing light and ready to crank up the curb idle for break in.
  33. 4 points
    59bisquik

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    Got alot of progress made today! Should be built by the end of week.
  34. 4 points
  35. 4 points
    woodrow

    Little detailing

    I am really getting into this car. I recently purchased this 1948 P15. While we still have approximately 2 to 3 months of winter to go I decided to spend some time just touching up some details. I have so far replaced all of the old rubber and carpets with new rubber flooring throughout. I've also taken the time to repair any paint flaws and am getting ready to replace the windshield glasses and seal. But this past couple of days I have been doing some cleani g, painting and pushing under the bonnet. When I got the car I noticed the rad had a bit of brass color poking out under some cruddy black paint. so I started with some stripper and revealed a beautiful big brass radiator. I sanded and then polished it to a shine.I also tore apart the horns and repainted them along with some other parts. so far, so good. I really like the way it's coming out. I would post more pics but I'm having a hard time resizing my pics in order to upload them.
  36. 4 points
    Conn47D24

    Tour of Andy Bernbaum's

    This week I took a ride up to Mass. and visited Andy Bernbaum's My daughter and grandkids are not far from there so it was a good day. AB's Owner, Chris Paquin was very helpful as usual , but after our business he gave me a tour of the warehouse. OMG ! Huge building packed with NOS parts that Andy picked over the many many years. What a treat to see this stuff. It's been years since he bought the business from AB, and he still hasn't gone through it all. Room full of bumpers, stacks of stainless, room with just bearings, another Auto-lite. Shelves of steering wheels ! Kid in a candy store sums it up. Needless to say if you are looking for something check with Chris.
  37. 4 points
    Managed to get the engine in this weekend. Most of the ancillaries fitted too. Started after a couple of cranks which was a result. Need to sort the timing out etc., but at least it runs!
  38. 4 points
    Gregarious13

    Show your tools.

    Just picked up these from the local community college auto department. They replaced them with Chinese tools from harbor freight 🤔 They are not allowed to sell them and can only scrap or give away. I know someone there and he let me have them. Three phase grinder and 55 ton press. Grinder has 3 new wheels, 2" wide 12" diameter. It will take 30 years to wear them out! Greg
  39. 3 points
    Didn’t come out too bad
  40. 3 points
    Cyama

    1955 C series assessment

    I made a quick trip to the BBQ at Tim's on Saturday and met some great guys on this forum. They suggested I join and post some pics of the '55 that I am working on. I would like to get this truck on its feet, and looking for some help finding parts to complete it. Bumpers, tailights, and emblems as well as details like the horn button would be helpful. Resources to complete the interior would be a great help too! Driver quality parts are fine with me, since I just want to make it complete. The rear bumper doesn't have to be factory. The Barden bumper farmer style bumper is cool with me too. I would also like to get an idea if this truck has been altered. It seems fairly original, but I'm not sure about the spare tire carrier and and the V8 painting on the tailgate. Thanks!
  41. 3 points
  42. 3 points
  43. 3 points
    Frank's 49

    Oil Filler Tube is Loose

    Mine also had about a 1/2 inch wide metal strap that wrapped around the oil filler tube, and then one end extended over to where the coil mount is bolted to the head. The section that went over to the bolt had a notch in it. The notch slid into place under the bolt, along with the bracket holding the coil.
  44. 3 points
    It looks much better in motion
  45. 3 points
    Los_Control

    just came in for the evening....

    I get a little anal about the fry pans. I have 2 Empire steel from the 1800's. I cook on them daily and have for years. Only fry pan I own. I would not put them through the dishwasher. And same time, I am the dishwasher. But if I had a dishwasher, everything else could go in it .... not my fry pans 😜
  46. 3 points
    knuckleharley

    has anyone heard from..

    Guys,thanks for the concern. I have been out of contact because I now have stage 4 lymphatic cancer,and between visiting every doctor and hospital in the western world and the confusion from the chemo and other drugs,my normal state these days is one of confusion and tired. The good news is that I have lost 30+ lbs so far,and can now bend over again without blacking out. Which would be handy if I could remember why I was bending over. Taking chemo twice a month for 6 months,and the doc says they can kill it. No guarantees,but they seem confident. No big surprise since I was medievaced from VN in Dec of 69 with pus-filled sores all over my torso,and a permanent medical profile that got me removed from Special Forces and assigned to a non-SF and non-airborne assignment. I didn't like the regular army any more than the regular army liked me,so like a fool I got out and refused the medical discharge I was offered because I figured I would get better and be able to enlist again. I was wrong. Anyhow,I now have occasional days when I feel pretty good,and that's about the best than can be said for it other than the fact everybody tells me they can cure me of it.. Looks like it's going to be a long 6 months,though. Being in my 70's probably doesn't help. One Mopar question. I am having trouble getting in email contact with the Dodge Boys in Montana about a finned aluminum Edgy head I bought for a 251 Mopar flat 6. I received the 230 head I bought the same day a couple of months ago,but not the 251 head. Due to recent medical problems I mostly forgot about it and let it slip through the cracks. Now that I am a little better,I need to find out when/if I am ever going to receive the head. Anyone else getting any responses from them?
  47. 3 points
  48. 3 points
    f_armer

    1951 Fargo 400cid on Dakota chassis

    It's drivable! Little more to do yet I just had to beat radar to the punch! Haha
  49. 3 points
    Brent B3B

    Heater Control Valve

    Glenn, in my opinion, I think in the parts book there is two different part numbers for that valve. only about six of us would look at the one you have and question it and out of that six, only one of us would really care, if it is correct or not. if you don't keep that valve PM me, cause I wont care what the other five think (this is not a solicitation of parts or classified add outside the proper avenue)


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use