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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/19/2013 in all areas

  1. 18 points
    I've been asked a lot of things by a lot of different people in my life. Giving advice, lending a hand, being politely asked to leave..., they are all generally of a similar class of requests such that not many are ever a surprise anymore. That was true most of my life until as of late. Now I'm getting surprised all the time. Here's some examples. Looking for any and every excuse to drive my truck, I took my kids to a birthday/costume party. In a few minutes parents were asking for kids to pose in and on the truck. Why not? A couple weeks later, again looking for an excuse to drive it, we used it to go to the local Chili Cook-off. It was pretty easy to just put the old slow cooker in the back and drive over. I stopped to drop off my entry and then went and parked. Within 30 minutes the organizers were looking for the owner of "that old black truck". They wanted to park it in the middle of the event for ambiance. Well, ambiance and picture poising. So many people wanted to crawl in and out of it, my view was obscured more than once. The wife bought a new mattress and box spring from Sears but refused to pay the $80 delivery charge. She was going to bring it home on the top of the Ford Escape. I mentioned that I had a truck which she had not considered. Not sure why she didn't - too "special?". We laughed. So we drove down to the outlet, tied the new items up and headed home. Near home I was trying to make a lane change but was blocked by some lady in a car. She kept matching my speed! I finally just decided to turn right. She ducked in behind us and followed. I remarked to the wife that if she pulled along side that the truck was $17,5k firm. We laughed and turned left. The lady followed. A couple of stop signs later, the car behind us pulled up and waved for my wife's attention. Seems she was getting married Saturday and wanted to be taken to the church and reception in my truck. My dirty, old, smells like gas, farm truck. If you would have seen her smile, heard her excitement, you wouldn't have said no either. What to charge her got me thinking about one of 48Dodger's blog posts. The question was about being able to put a proper the price on our parts or services. I was struggling with that and it took me a while to come up with a clear answer for myself. In the end I didn't charge her a penny. Couldn't really. There was no price on a blushing bride, clearly happy about going to her wedding in an old farm truck. There was no payment large enough for the looks on people's faces, the thumbs up, as we passed them on the way to the church. You certainly could never have found enough of any payment of any kind for the entire church gathering's collective look as we drove off with the newlyweds in the front cab. I got paid with this story. With smiles. Good feelings all around. I'm lucky enough to be in a position to make some people happy. Whether you know it or not Tim, you do the same thing for a lot of people here. Did for me.
  2. 17 points
    Roger1

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    1940 Plymouth Truck ,PT 105 ,98 % Original
  3. 14 points
    Sam Buchanan

    Leaving the Nest

    Today my '48 P15 attained a milepost of sorts.....the first foray away from the shop to the other toy box. Thanks to many hours reading archives of your past posts and the helpful hints offered when I asked, the ol' girl smoothly and effortlessly made the 25-mile round trip on a four-lane highway to the hangar and back. She cruises nicely at 55mph and tracks straight down the highway. The only wiggles are due to returning the waves and thumbs-up from other motorists. There is still work to do (house training for one thing...) but after four months of bumper-to-bumper attention the P15 has awakened from its five-year nap and is now a real road car.
  4. 13 points
    Pouring down rain this morning. Flood watch in effect. Headed to the shop in the dark when out of nowhere a huge fallen pine tree is hanging into my lane. At 45 mph it hit the roof on the passenger side near the corner of the windshield. Was expecting broken glass and significant damage. Nada.....zip....nothing. Not even a scratch. Got to love that old Detroit Iron. I am positive an impact like this would have messed up a newer truck. And yet the only evidence is a few pine needles. And an elevated heartbeat..... Old Pilothouse trucks RULE! Jeff
  5. 13 points
    I find that guys like me, on the DIY sites, never seem to think anything is rare or as valuable as stated on Craigslist or EBay. It might be guys like me are not the ones to ask. I can fabricate, paint, tweak, locate or trade whatever I need when it comes to the 48-53 dodge trucks…I got friends too. So maybe it just seems easier for me, which somehow translates to cheaper? Maybe less valuable? I have to look at a recent event that made me think about my attitude. Why pay a mechanic 500 bucks when you can do it for 20? This just happened to me. I fixed Mom's 2004 Grand Marque for 12 bucks. The Light Control Module had failed.....the dealership wanted 650 bucks (replace the LCM), the other shop (2nd opinion) wanted 560 bucks. I was like "What??? Let me look at it" I did the research on the internet, found the common problem disscussed on a forum, and fixed it with improvements recommended by the thread starter. A failed relay needed replacing; 12 bucks in parts....took me maybe an hour. It’s not original, but using wires to relocate the relay that has problems, outside the module, makes it easy to replace when it fails again. The price of a new Light Control Module ranged from 100 to 400 dollars.....the relay was 3 bucks (wires, etc made up the rest of the cost). Of course this was Mom, but I got to thinking.....why don't I see what I did as valuable? Did I just want to prove those wrench heads are overpriced???? If it wasn't Mom, would I have charged 90 bucks for the time and 12 bucks for the parts? I don’t know, I did take a free lunch and the satisfaction of knowing I saved my Mom from the wolves. Or did I? The shop was charging for the part and the labor. It seems my default is to undercharge based on some moral dilemma I created in my head based on the fact I personally can do things cheaper for myself. I paint cars on the side, but do it cheaper because my overhead is lower etc….but how is that my fault? Again, I think it’s a Do It Yourself mentality that’s skewed my interpretation of value. Looking at Craigslist, I see 48-53 trucks that are clearly over priced….uh….that I think are overpriced. And the crooks on EBay that have NO idea how to price a damn vintage fender….err…I FEEL are uninformed of a reasonable price for classic steel. It’s there that I wonder if I should take a closer look at how I’m applying said worth to the stock pile of parts I sometimes give away or sell cheap to fellow vintage truck owners to help them out. Not that I want to change my practices (I know you’re reading this Mike aka Trampsteer, lol) but maybe bring myself into the 21st century and give the guys who are charging possibly the “right” price for these trucks and the parts a break from my attitude, and maybe give myself a bigger pat on the back when I make a what I consider a good deal. Okay….so maybe this is where it really started. It’s been a few months since I fixed Mom’s car, when she calls me and says she received a notice in the mail. Ford sent her a letter stating that her year car has been having troubles with the LCM. They would like to extend the warranty to have the problem fixed. If it has already been fixed by a non dealer, etc… to provide the bill to Ford and they will reimburse the money…….damn. Ford owes Mom 12 bucks and a lunch, lol.
  6. 12 points
    Duskylady

    She's Finished!

    It's taken a long while but we got her put together this spring. Her name is Bettie. She ran so well that we chose to take her to the Hot Rod Dirt Drags in Monte Vista, Colorado. Won 1-3 against a big black merc. Blew up a second flex plate and found out the steering column needs a new bearing. Even with that she drove there and back home without a complaint! Woot!
  7. 11 points
    · · For Decades I have listened to people talk about Flathead Mopar 6 Cylinder Engines in terms of intakes, what is the best carb configuration for their particular situation. Discussions on putting two carbs and those who claim to be sure that is too much carburation or that it will use to much fuel. Then every once in a while the discussion of 3 carbs comes up, and that almost always sparks the debate on how it would take a race motor to need it, or how the engine will bog, or run poorly. In the last 20 years with a good friend of the AoK boys coming across a huge stash of 2 barrel carter weber carbs which were designed for slant six engines, the discussion on utilizing a 2 barrel instead of two singles comes up. I just smile, but then I know that when the stash of 2 barrel carter webers were found, its finder put them on his website as a carb for a flathead mopar. Its amazing how a market can be created and how quickly – “this is the way to go” spreads like rapid fire, without as much as any background check into something. But 1st, let me go back to the 1st time I heard the discussion on multiple carbs vs a single multi-barrel carb, or put another way, comparing that “old technology carter ball and ball vs a modern 4 barrel carb”.. It was about 45 Years ago, when I 1st heard someone in a conversation with my Grandfather and my Dad, suggesting they knew a lot about Flathead Mopars and were sporting a 4 barrel carb on a homemade intake. This gentleman had played with flathead Ford v8s and had came across a Dodge 2 door sedan from the mid-50s. He was suggesting he had built the ultimate flathead Chrysler Engine and he was one of those guys that whatever he had at the moment was just the best and the only way to go. Well after my Dad explained he had far from the ultimate flathead Chrysler, and that his wife’s daily driver (my Mom) was good enough to kick his ass, Dad pulled out my Mom's pickup. It was sporting a bored out 265, with a cam, a factory dual intake and exhaust with a pair of carter ball and balls, and an a833 4 speed tranny. After a little bit of fun that really wasn't much of a contest, licking his wounds sort of speak, Mr "Ultimate Flathead Chrysler" started down the road of excuses when Grandfather shook his head and cut him off at the pass. Grandfather like my Dad were automotive Engineers, and Grandfather literally knew more about Chrysler Flatheads than any person alive. Given he saw the very 1st flathead roll of the line in Windsor, Ontario Canada in 1935 and saw the last block cast in 1959, he had some pretty good credentials to give a lecture. What is explained in a few minutes was not only how the flathead engine worked, but why the engine this gentleman had came with only 1 carb failed to perform. Most think that 1 carb was put on the engine and that it has sufficient carburation for the engine, and if it needed more, Chrysler Engineers would have put more on. On a basic level that is true, but what engineering was building was an engine to a specific HP, torque and fuel consumption target and not to get the most out of the engine, make it as efficient as possible or even have it run to anything close to 100% optimum performance. By Optimum performance I am not talking maximum hp or maximum rpm or optimum fuel mileage on a vehicle. Grandfather then explained that in fact when Chrysler was faced with the need to meet a 5 ton truck specification for dump/plow trucks asked for by Canadian Municipalities during the winter of 1950, that the requirement had filtered to engineering in late 1950. They developed the 265 ci motor which was 3 7/16" bore and 4 3/4" stroke and have dual carbs and dual exhaust on them, which was what was in Mom’s pickup. Few realize that that engine actually had more hp than any other engine on the market. I will attach the picture of the poster that was on Grandfathers office at the time. I gave it to George Asche Jr years ago. In any case you can see the hot v8 mopar had in 1952 was 133 hp and the flathead 6 had more hp. As an aside Grandfather with the cam grind out of the 1952 Chrysler that engine exceeded 150 hp at the time, but given the time, energy and money that have been invested in the new Hemi v8 that was never going to see the light of day on any marketing information. That engine and the fact it had a factory intake, immediately became a stock car favorite in the 1952 season, when Mopar dominated stock car racing everywhere it landed. In any case Chrysler didn't just put on a second carb on it because they needed more carburation. By then Chrysler already had Carter building Ball and Ball carbs from 85cfm - 425 cfm each and we now know they had a 625 cfm carter ball and ball single barrel carb if they needed it. The reason for two was the basic issue, some would call flaw, but Grandfather would call basic restriction to taking the engine to the next level. I say that folding back to the earlier point that Chrysler was building engine to a spec of "x" hp, "y" torque and "z" fuel consumption. The flathead 6 build by Chrysler has 3 Siamese intake ports, each of which feed two cylinders. Setting aside the exhaust for a second, and keeping in mind that an engine is really just a giant vacuum pump, putting 1 carb in the middle of the block, basically over the middle intake port feeding cylinders 3 and 4, means that if all cylinders are the same in compression ratio and ability to create vacuum and suck in a fuel mixture coming from the carb, then cylinder 3 and 4 are going to get more fuel than the intake ports feeding cylinders 1 and 2 or 5 and 6. Yes Chrysler made intake modifications to help that, but they again were not trying to make the perfect engine, just have it meet specs required. As a little aside if your look at intakes from the 1930s through to the 50s you will notice Chrysler Engineers raised the level of the carb. With the Dual Carb truck intake it also was raised further with governors placed under the carbs. The height of the carb mounting above the intake posts can easily be seen to rise from the 1930s to the 1950s. Its also why if your look at some of the aftermarket dual intakes made in the 30s and compare them to say the 3rd generation Edmunds in the 50s you will notice a huge difference in height. The raising of the carbs and providing a smoother run from carb to the intake ports saw huge benefits in performance. Of course maybe buried in the story is the fact that early intake was designed for a marine application where quick rev was far more the desired trait than was torque. When the intake was moved to an automotive application you would find a quick rev with the clutch engaged, but disengaged there is a significant loss in torque and it will actually burn more fuel than a single carb. But back to my story, if we now add the exhaust component into your stock Mopar flathead (or L-head) which depending on what year engine and what vehicle, has the single exhaust exiting at one of a few different locations. For this discussion lets say it exits at the back as does the post ww2 cars. What you find is as the cylinders push out exhaust there is almost no restriction or back pressure at cylinders 5 and 6, but there is a great deal of back pressure at cylinders 1 and 2. So here we have the most back pressure making it tough to push away the exhaust and actually the front intake port receiving the least amount of fuel. While the engine meets specs with no problem, its clear that if you can balance the exhaust, by having 3 exhaust cylinders exit through 1 exhaust pipe and the other three through a 2nd pipe, you can better balance the exhaust back pressure. We sort of glossed over the fact that while there are only 3 intake ports, each cylinder does have its own exhaust port. Something that changed with the introduction of the slant 6, which had 6 equal intake runners each feeding a cylinder. Back to the flathead, if we can better distribute fuel to balance the opportunity for each of the 3 Siamese ports to get fuel, then the engine will run more efficiently. So if you were to take a big block 25 1/2" engine, and anyone of them, not just the 265 and put the factory dual carb and dual exhaust setup on it and then put on the appropriate carter ball and ball carb on it, it will gain hp, torque and improved fuel mileage. The reason is it runs more efficient. The same takes place with the 23 1/2" USA small block which has the same intake and exhaust configuration, although slightly smaller ports. If you take it one step further, putting 1 carb on top of each intake port, you can provide the optimum amount of fuel efficiency for the engine. Back to our 4 barrel friend, putting on a large carb just provides a further opportunity to over fuel the center siamese intake port. When he hammered the throttle it was actually not able to burn all of the fuel in the middle two cylinders and was “bogging” ,until it could gain enough RPM to use some of the fuel. When he was running against Mom’s pickup which had more balanced back pressure, and a better distribution of fuel he had no chance even if the engines were internally the same. Of course they weren't but that is another story. Years later when we created the AoK triple intake, we placed the first intake on an almost rock stock 201 ci motor. It had been rebuilt stock, although required to be bored out 10 thou to clean up cylinders. Beyond that it was a stock cam, intakes etc. With 3 of the smallest CFM carter ball and ball carbs on board and headers made from a stock exhaust systems, the car ran smoother, had better acceleration and got 6 miles per gallon better highway mileage over the single carb and single exhaust. In the end, it is just a myth that you need some bored out, cammed up engine for 2 carbs and a full race motor for 3 carbs. The reason why Chrysler didn't run 3 carbs was simple. 1) The cost of 3 carbs was no inconsequential 2) They could meet the HP, Torque and Fuel useage targets with 1 carb. The exception was when there was a time window where the dual carb, dual exhaust 265 ci motor was released, but with overhead valve v8s and Hemi's coming shortly after the multiple carb flathead life-cycle was short lived. There is a bit more it than that. I have glossed over a bunch of the engineering parts of why you don't just put a carb directly to each intake port with no equalization tube, but I am sure you get the drift. Unlike a v8 where you might try and make carbs progressive because your feeding a intake plenum that equally or close to equally feeding all 8 cylinders, the flathead engine has 3 intake ports each feeding 2 cylinders so progressive carbs just are not effective. On the flathead Mopar, with either 2 or 3 carbs you want them to produce the exact same fuel to feed each of the Siamese ports exactly the same. Its not progressive in terms of additional barrels or carbs, its progressive by pushing on the gas peddle. The key is making sure both or all three carbs are identical and that you have linkage that operates all of them exactly the same. Its a common misconception that they must be hard to keep synced. We have engines with tens of thousands of miles on them with multiple carbs and are never adjusted. George Asche's 1929 Desoto that he has owned since 1950 likely has an unbelievable amount of miles on it and likely the carbs were only touched when George has redone the engine. I own vehicles with 100,000 + miles on them and the linkage for the dual carbs has never touched. That has a lot to do with just how good Carter Ball and Ball carbs are.. We also get asked quite often about modifying the block to provide 6 intake ports, or using webers or other carbs, or running fuel injection. Dad and Grandfather with too much time on their hands, as my Mother would say, did modify a couple of engines to provide 6 intake ports. There were several intakes made including one with an 18" runner set on it, one with 6 side draft webers and one with modified hilborn fuel injection. At the end of the day, with various levels of success, nothing seems to outperform an Edmunds triple carb intake with riser blocks and 3 matched 1952-56 Truck carbs on them and maybe with some jetting changes. Of course, since then we have developed a couple of new cam profiles and of course the AoK triple which utilizes better and modern casting technology, as well as better flow bench testing and computer modelling that neither Chrysler or Eddy Edmunds had. Have we thought about digging out the 6 intake port block that is still in Dad's shop, well yah we have, but that is another project and a blog entry for another time.
  8. 11 points
    Pete

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    My 1938 Dodge Brothers RC half ton. Picture taken about 20 years ago. It's seen a lot of work since then. Pete
  9. 11 points
    February 6 1932 my good friend and second Dad, the Grand Master of Flathead Mopars - George Asche was born. Yesterday was his surprise Birthday Party and today is George's 85th Birthday! The picture below is rumored to be when George Graduated High School, but I think really that should be a diploma of future Flathead Chrysler, Desoto, Plymouth, Dodge/Fargo's mastery ! In the background is his Dad's Dodge truck which George still owns today! Happy Birthday George! Oh and if your wondering what George was up to for Birthday. Well - Lunch with his Boys at the shop (George III, Rob and Tim), then building some carbs up, then over to the machine shop for some consulting as the AoK dual carb intakes were rolling through 7 different station. The picture of George with the prototype and the very first one to be completed which of course is his birthday present.. lol A few pictures of the Dual Carb (23 1/2" USA small block) and Triple Carb (25 1/2" Canadian Big Block) intakes going through the steps, and being test fitted on blocks setup with exhausts so that every intake has been checked for a perfect fit. Then it was off for Supper in Knox (Horse Thief Capital of the World) and back to George's shop and setting up tomorrows trip, which is believe it or not, were heading down to pick up George's Uncle Harry Hiens - #90 who is in the Nascar Hall of Fame. Harry lives in Mars PA. Were bringing him up to check out the AoK intakes and take George's newest 1929 Desoto for a ride!
  10. 10 points
    derbydad276

    introduction

    new guy with a new toy 1953 Dodge Coronet ... barn car 33 k original miles came with a parts car
  11. 10 points
    jmooner3

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    We've got a couple of seasons up here in Vermont.... Beautiful summer for a week, winter for 7 months, mud season from April til June and of course the perfect weather for a drive in ol blue in the fall!
  12. 10 points
    "DD," my 1942 DeSoto, gets driven at least three times a week for local errands. She is completely stock--including the semi-automatic fluid drive--and runs like a dream. I am working now on DD2--another 1942 DeSoto. This one has some engine modifications, including three carburetors and slightly higher compression. Also a 200R4 transmission. Otherwise, stock....
  13. 9 points
    Took a drive over to Scottsdale for the afternoon. Car is running fine... Needing shocks though...
  14. 9 points
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    I know I posted this on the forums somewhere previously, but here it is again. I painted this on canvas in 2017. My B-1-D is looking quite cold and a bit lonely sitting there in that shed. At the time I painted this I knew that someday I'd own a Pilot House truck. 😊 When I painted this my thoughts were the truck is fully tuned and ready to go, and the owner (me) is in the shed making sure the tire chains are secure before firing it up. 😁 Hope you guys like it!
  15. 8 points
    couple more Tom's not afraid of no stinking mud puddle!
  16. 8 points
    I checked the brakes and steering and went down to the corner and back. It is not always easy to start so I didn’t want to walk home and my kid is in the house watching cartoons after dinner. I was more than a little nervous but the rusty rotors worked ok and the steering was pretty good too- a little more effort than the over-assisted 70s muscle cars I’m used to but nice. I live on top of a small hill in the middle of my block and it’s a 2 lane street that narrows when people park on the sides so I was just concentrating on making it home without killing the motor or finding a terrible problem the hard way. It’s got a loud thrum at idle that will take some dynamat to cure but it never threatened to die. The turning radius was decent (should be for a shortened dakota) and the power brakes seem to be working ok? Not amazing. Breaking them in from their slumber will help but the actual braking happens after a good bit of free travel and requires some force on the pedal. Maybe I will eventually go to a smaller bore master but time will tell. I’m super glad I extended the floor forward under the pedal so it could have more travel without a higher starting point. I hardly looked at the gauges but on the way back up the hill I gave it half throttle and good lord she’s got some stink! BIG milestone today.
  17. 8 points
    greg g

    New business for business coupe

  18. 8 points
    Matt Wilson

    Manifold Stud Replacement

    Ok, I have an update. This past Wednesday evening, I decided to give it a little go, by just trying the worst-looking stud. It was the rear-most stud. I turned the engine on its side (on the engine stand), took a pair of nuts, tightened them against each other and began applying some force with an open-end wrench on the bottom nut, in the loosening direction. At first, the nuts just turned on the stud, so I tightened up the nuts about as hard as I felt comfortable without stripping them. Then it was back at it with the wrench on the lower nut. To my surprise, the stud started to turn. I kept at it until I thought I could grip it with my vice-grips (not clamped down, but just using them like an ordinary pair of pliers) and I did this until the stud was out. Ok, I said, that went well....let's try another one. So I moved on to the next one and did the same thing. After the third or fourth one, I stopped using the two nuts and just used the vice-grips to get a very firm grip on the studs and removed them that way. Unbelievably, they all came out that way in less than an hour, except for the final one, which was the front-most one. I worked on that one for a little while, spraying penetrating oil and tapping with a brass mallet, grabbing with vice-grips, double-nutting it, etc., and it didn't budge. So....I let it sit with penetrating oil for a couple of days, till just a few minutes ago, when I went out there and tapped on it some more (actually several fairly sharp raps in all directions), then did the double-nut thing with the open-end wrench AND the vice-grips clamped down really tightly, placed 180 degrees opposite the wrench. I grabbed the wrench with one hand and vice-grips with the other and applied quite a bit of force to each. I was a little afraid I was getting close to the point where the stud could twist off, so was about to give up and try some heat, when.....voila!....the stud started to turn. So I kept at this until it was removed, though it fought me most of the way. But in the end, I prevailed. Now I have a nice, stud-free manifold mating surface. I'm glad I went ahead and did this. It was really a pretty small effort. I think I will now try to clean up the surface with a few light file strokes, or maybe a very brief/light sanding with my Black and Decker Mouse (which is a small orbital type of sander, I guess you'd say), as the manifold surface looks somewhat pitted. I suppose I could even take it back to my machinist and have him surface that region to get it really good, but not sure if need to do that and I'd prefer to avoid it if possible. Following that, I will clean out the threaded holes with a thread chaser, and spray the holes nice and clean with brake parts cleaner and install new studs with sealant or maybe anti-seize as suggested by MB Fowler in his post above. Thanks to everyone for the tips and more importantly for giving me the nudge to proceed with this. I was afraid it would going to turn into a nightmare, but it worked out amazingly well. I know it doesn't work out this way a lot of times, but I suppose I got lucky. I guess I was due, considering the trouble I've had with other areas of the project, LOL.
  19. 8 points
    Worden18

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    My 1948 B-1-D
  20. 8 points
    Gets parked most of the winter. But drive it as much as I can manage the rest of the year. Hits 75 mph almost every drive.
  21. 8 points
    Finally the AoK George Asche Jr Ltd Edition Intake for the all 23 1/2" USA flathead Mopar engines has been completed and is in production. The pictures below has prototype linkage for the 1933-1938 Cars and all trucks and power wagons. You may notice that the left carb linkage bar has been cut short, and is not hooked to the left carb. That is strictly for prototype purposes and the production versions have a longer bar That allows for a linkage bar to come down from each carb to the common rail. It does shows how the serial number and linkage block provides the spot for stock linkage components to be mounted and then integrated with the new AoK linkages. That is critical for the earlier cars and trucks. You will notice for this version we are using the outside "wings" for linkage mounts. For newer cars where we want the linkage rail mounted on the inside, there are inside "wings" that are drilled and the rail is then on the inside wings. The outside block will then just be the serial number plate. Early cars and trucks are different in that they are on the outboard side of the intake, but they also have different connection points for the carbs to the common rail as compared to later model cars.. George has the linkage working perfectly for the several different applications. If you are going to be using this on the truck or older car you would just use your stock brackets and the AoK linkage will just integrate with it, to give you the desired upgrade from the single to dual carbs. Oh yes, and hot debate on the name.. Our original intent was to have the writing read from the passenger side although you may notice it was reversed to be read from the other side. In the production version, we have got the writing of "AoK George Asche Jr Ltd Ed" turned around and in a different font than the prototype. There were a couple of minor changes to the prototype, including making the outboard linkage mounting block slightly bigger, changing the name and a couple of internal items. Today the 1st batch of production intakes are being poured. That process will continue for the balance of the week, they are heat treated and shipped to us. We need to have the casted intakes machined, tapped and threaded which should see the 1st intakes ready to ship in the next 4-6 weeks. * Dec 3rd note: That casting turned out to be 1 being cast with the slight change talked about above. That one was heat treated and shipped to us. We called back and said why did you just ship us only 1. The reply, they wanted to be really sure it was correct. They were given the go to cast a production run and more of our Big Block Triples which have been sold out for months. They have no been all cast and are off for heat treating on Monday. The intake has been a long time coming, even more so given the prototype was completed almost a year and a half ago. Now - down to the brass tacks as my Grandfather would have said - Cost ! Feb 8 2017 Were committed to the pricing of $425 for the 1st shipment as we feel customers have waited a long time patiently for the product and that was our original We will be repricing them upwards slightly as the development cost and the casting price has escalated well beyond where the estimates were when we started. Just the casting price is up 73% which is an increase in the price of the aluminum. For linkage, if customers want us to make them linkage, it will start at $150 and really depends on what linkage is required. By that I mean if a customer needs linkage for a 1933 Desoto, and if they don't have the linkage block tab, we can get that piece and will sell it at our cost, but it is a relatively expensive part. If the customer has theirs and most do, then we will clean theirs up and paint it for them at no extra cost. If its linkage for a 1946-48 Plymouth, then it is very straight forward. Built carter ball and ball carbs are $195.00 each and the will be Siamese twins, meaning they will be exactly the same in their venture, throttle bore sizing and jetting, with all new kits in them and if a customer buys the entire package, George will mount the carbs, linkage, adjust everything and the customer wont have to pay anything extra for that or the carb gaskets. * Note if you already ordered your intake with carbs, the price quoted you is still in effect, even though the cost of full rebuild kits just went up significantly. Shipping is extra and is at cost, or the customer can use their shipping preference and if they have an account utilize that. We don't charge for packing or handling. Our address is George Asche/Tim Kingsbury 1693 fertigs Road, Fertigs, PA 16364 I can be reached directly at Fargopickupking@yahoo.com and we will accept paypal if it is send via family and friends so were not paying the paypal fee as there is literally no margin on these 1st batch of intakes. We will also accept a cheque, money order or if your driving by, cash! A few notes: 1) We will also be receiving a small number of the AoK triple intakes for the Canadian 25 1/2" big blocks. They have been sold out for over a year now so if you were looking for one of those we will be able to ship finished triples by year end. Cost for those is $495 and linkage pricing depends on what your using it for and what linkage is required but typically ranges from $150-$200. 2) Headers made from OEM exhaust manifolds are available for both the USA small blocks and the Canadian big blocks. The last picture is from my 1949 Plymouth Business coupe which has a Canadian 265 ci motor in it and the AoK Triple. Its the same basic look for either the 23 1/2" small block or 25 1/2" big blocks. 3) We now have a source for reproduction GMC (not the Chevy versions with major air restrictions). You can get replacement air filters for them and they are available in Chrome tops or Black. The Black versions are $125.00 and Chrome ones are $138.00. You can see them here in a video posted by Fred Buhay. 4) The Big Note to be aware of: We expect to be able to ship finished intakes early next week, but there is not some big pile of built carbs or linkage sets made up and ready to ship and George hand makes every piece of linkage and rebuilds every carb completely from top to bottom. So if your looking for linkage or carbs or both, on top of an intake, get your order in early as I expect to see a big back log in short order. To date we have note taken orders or money, but have put people on a waiting list. Everyone on that waiting list were alerted 48 hours ago and right now 1/2 of the 1st production run has been spoken for. There is no fear that we will be unable to get people intakes, but the question of when we can supply is potentially a question. Finally if you would like us to call you and answer questions about either intake, we are happy to. Just drop me an email to fargopickupking@yahoo.com with your phone number and when is a good time to contact you and George or I will give you a call. below is the AoK triple on my 1949 Plymouth Business Coupe.
  22. 8 points
    Well the pattern is complete! Attached are a couple of pictures. The one with the blue cores was just before Christmas, and the other two were actually taken last week. The 1st intake will actually be cast tomorrow and then a 2nd one will be cast with the integrated water tube early next week. It will be made with its own mini foam core for the water tube. The tube will be on the inside, or block side of the intake. In that way it becomes easy to make it optional, without changing the outside appearance. Those two should be off to the machine shop early next week. Once that work is completed and everything is checked and double checked dimension wise, we will be doing some testing to confirm our flow numbers and other factors. George will then get into finalizing linkage and all the stainless steel pieces will be manufactured, machined etc and ready to mate up with the completed intakes. Then assuming everything goes well, and there are not too many changes, we will give the thumbs up to start casting the 1st real production batch of intakes, then off to the machine shop. Right now I think we are still on track for delivery in March/April time frames. When they are done as we a have said, we will ship them based on 1st paid for, will be 1st shipped. As I have said before, If your concerned they will be sold out and you won’t get one, don't worry about that. But if you one of those people that has to have one before their buddy has one, well then get your order in to get in the line ! Right now there are about 1/2 dozen ordered. Yes there are many times that in terms of people inquiring about them and expressing interest.
  23. 7 points
    Worden18

    Me and the B-1-D

    January 7, 2019: Fellas, I'm so excited to share my latest find with you! I have been searching for this truck for a LONG time; I was almost certain it did not exist. And for it to turn up in Minnesota, an hour and a half from me is truly amazing. It's a 1948 B-1-D 5 window Express 1 ton with the 9 foot box. 230 with the 4 speed tranny. Originally came from a grain farm in North Dakota. There's no rust on it, and after further inspection it does look like the original paint, which is Dodge truck red for 1948. Odometer reads 32K. It's not running, but I'm confident we will have it going this week. PO said it was running last summer, but he had lost spark recently. He had it for 5 years and didn't do anything with it. Needs brakes of course. I can handle that on my own. It is truly a survivor! I'm certain the rear bumper is handmade. I don't believe the wood in the bed is original, and I don't believe the seat covering and door panels are original. But they are old for sure. Has anyone ever seen that type of material on these old trucks? Anyway, I have a lot of questions, but I doubt I will get to them tonight. For now guys, just enjoy the pictures. 😊
  24. 7 points
    tanda62

    She Runs!

    Got the assembly to the point of engine running for the 53 B4C. Dodge running.mp4
  25. 7 points
  26. 7 points
    Just came in this afternoon. Serial number 003. If I can get past the cancer,I hope to put it in the dead stock 33 Dodge shown in the photos,and drive it around and enjoy the HELL out of it just like you see it in the photos. This was the type of car I used to see running around when I was a kid that you could buy and enjoy for 50 bucks because I had some hope of one day having 50 bucks. Had and still have practically zero interest in new cars,but I LOVED the hell out of stuff from the 30's and 40's. I will never win any prizes at car shows or runs with it,but you can bet there will be nobody there having more fun than me. Had a local guy ask me last year if I knew anybody interested in buying the good running 251 6 out of his 51 DeSoto for 250 bucks,so I snapped it up and it is now sitting on my garage floor next to the 33 Dodge. I also have dual carb aluminum intake and carbs for it. About the only piece I am missing that I can think of is a set of cast iron headers. so I can run duals. I prefer the sound of the cast iron over the tubular headers. Every time I think about this I want to stop what I am doing and do a little happy dance.
  27. 7 points
    hkestes41

    Cool P15 Photo

    Cool old photo I found on another site. P15 Police Cars.
  28. 7 points
    rockable

    Finished my 41 Plymouth

    Rather than reposting all this, I will just post my link to the HAMB. I really appreciate the help I received from you guys! https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/finished-my-41-plymouth.1140466/#post-12963394
  29. 7 points
  30. 7 points
    Don't drive during winter here in Wisconsin but do get around during better weather. 1-Driving thru Metropolis IL, 2-Memphis, 3-Arrive Daytona, 4-Daytona Beach for the Turkey Run, 5-Talledega Speedway on the trip home. Also have some photos somewhere of the car at Operaland, Don Garlits museum, and in Daytona Speedway pits. 3700 mile trip, just my wife and my 48 P15, 440 powered.
  31. 7 points
    Dodgeb4ya

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Some of mine are sleeping in the cold....
  32. 7 points
    JBNeal

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    3 days ago it was in the 80s...now I've got snow and sleet falling on the dandelions in the yahd... February in TX...LOVE IT
  33. 7 points
    48Dodger

    Motor and tranny swap

    Easiest? For a beginner? Since you asked. 1. Learn the original intent of the vehicle (work truck, farm truck, tow truck, delivery truck, etc...) 2. Clarify what the new intent is for the vehicle (show truck, crusier truck, race truck, etc...) 3. Find a build that's complete and that you yourself have experienced (ie you rode in it as a passenger or were allowed to test drive it) 4. Copy that build with the help of the person who owns said vehicle. I firmly believe you shouldn't "custom" build any vehicle as your first project....especially if you put in a passenger seat. Keep it fun by keep'n it safe. 48D
  34. 7 points
    Cast the magic wand (read hard work, sweat and bruised knuckles) and here's what we ended up with:
  35. 7 points
    As suggested by Captain Fred in his blog entry on his 1940 Plymouth build, he wanted something done on cams. Well, that can be quite a topic, and while you can find all kinds of article on the "inter-web" on how cams work in an engine, my goal is to put a Flathead Mopar slant on the topic. Of course as my Grandfather used to say, an engine is nothing more and a large vacuum pump. Your cam turns lifting up intake valves, as pistons are being turned by a crank and that creates a vacuum. The vacuum sucks in whatever is near by into the engine. The cam turns a little further, closing the intake valve, we "light a candle" to whatever is in then in the cylinder and after what we hope is a controlled explosion, the cam turns a little further lifting exhaust valves and those pistons coming up push out whatever is left out of the engine.. In the V8 world a great deal of people used to think that making power, aside from the "no replacement for displacement" concept was putting in a wild cam. As time went by in the racing world, while the cam was important, we know it is the heads that are a much bigger factor to the V8 world. Sure superchargers or turbo chargers, trying to jam more stuff into the cylinder and the type of fuel you use for your controlled explosion also became a big factor, but in the world of cam vs heads it is the heads that lead that world. In the flathead Mopar world, fuel isn't entering via the heads, and so it is definitely a cam that leads this world over the heads. Next lets talk about stock lift and duration and even there, Chrysler Corporation made a huge number of cam profiles so the second I toss this out here, its easy for someone to say - "my stock cam is different" and yes I know that. But in high level terms, a cam has two major factors and a few lesser factors. Lift and most of the p15-d24s were a 375 lift and then duration. Lift is how high the cam lifts the valve from its closed position, and duration is the degrees of the 360 degree circle that it keeps those valves open. In other terms how high we lift the valves and for how long we keep them open, whether intake or exhaust valves. Again high level - you are limited by how high you can lift the valves in a flathead by the head. Lift the valve too high and it hits the head. On the duration side, there becomes a point where you have kept the valves open too long and it starts to effect the actual vacuum level in your engine. Remember again, a big vacuum pump. as we open and keep open valves we loose the seal on the vacuum. Of course we do that because we want to get and fuel and air mixture into the engine. The change in duration also does things to the torque curve on your engine, but that is a whole different level of the discussion and I am trying to keep this more on the basic side. Again in general if we keep the intake valves open longer and lift the intake valves higher, we get the opportunity to get more fuel/air into the engine. More fuel and air, and yes, clearly effected by the compression ratio, the more "bang" when we ignite the mixture with the spark plug firing. Now, in the cause and effect department, generally as we raise up the valves higher (aka the lift) and hold those valves open longer (increased duration) we tend to change the rpm idle and things become what most of us call "lumpy". In the good old mopar v8 days of the 1970s I am sure lots remember pulling up to the lights with a guy running a "cammed up" motor and it was idling rough, shaking, coughing an weezing and yes that was also how the timing was set, but it was the duration of the cam that was causing that. When the light turned green and they hammered it, assuming the timing was set correctly, the goal was for that high lift cam to allow for a lot more fuel to get into the engine dramatically raising the RPM and turning the lumpy idling engine into a smooth running race engine. Yes I am isolating and slanting this entire discussion towards cams, when timing can also be a huge factor. No better example being when Big Daddy Don Garlitz was forced to use a 426 hemi after they actually ran out of 392 hemis. He couldn't get the 426 to run as well, and out of frustration he advanced the timing way way beyond what anyone would have thought would work. In fact Don often tells the story that he intended to blow the "blanking" thing up. But as the engine rev'd up that advanced timing suddenly brought out the inner Monster of the 426 Hemi and all of a sudden the 392 Hemi was obsolete in Don's mind! Back to our cams and remembering that the generation of car cams we are talking about were 375 lift. There are two school of thoughts on creating high performance cams. 1st is to raise the lift gradually and some pretty famous high performance cams raise the lift to 380 an and then increase the duration to 242 degrees. The 2nd is to raise the lift up as extreme as we can and also increase the duration. in the 1950s a pretty famous performance cam used a 400 lift. and 250 degrees of duration. The other factor without diving into the details to much, is what I call the split. A great deal of cams have the intakes open and the exhaust close at exact same time, but some use a split. So for example an Esky 3/4 miles cam the intake opens intake valves at 20 degrees and closes them at 50 degrees and the exhaust opens at 57 degrees and closes at 13 degrees. The Schroller full race cam - again a stock car racing - Higher lift and increased duration the Intake - has the intake valves open at 18 degrees and closes at 54 degree. The exhaust opens at 54 degrees and closes at 18 degrees. If you are using a turbo or a blower, you often want a period of time (number of degrees) in which the intake is close and the exhaust hasn't yet opened, or visaversa. The age old question is of course - so how much lift can I have before the engine sounds like it is misfiring. Almost always visions of those 1970 v8 engines coughing and wheezing are the reason for thing that. In reality the flathead just doesn't really act like a great deal of those badly timed, over cammed engines.. lol The reality is in the flathead world it is more a case of the rpm rises at idle than it is about it sounding like the 1970;s v8. Of course most want a cam that sounds like it is rock stock, idles like the engine isn't running, but then they want a Top Fuel Monster to come alive when they hit the throttle. That becomes a delicate balance and is always a compromise. So lets talk extreme. Maybe there is a wilder cam out there, but if there is we have never seen it. Ill keep the origins of this cam a little bit of a mystery, but the cam we use in the Velociraptor is the most extreme cam we know of. I chuckle these days as this phrase that seems to be in vogue again, but decades ago my Grandfather used to refer to a car that had this cam as "The Hot Mess Express". Today we call if the AoK Velociraptor Grind . It is tough to get it to idle below 22-2300 rpm and we have with a ton of work have actually gotten our dragster to idle around 2000 rpm. It will wind up to North of 7200 rpm. You can run an engine on alcohol and will need 3 carbs and need to shift to 6 exhaust pipes for at least 42", to get it to run properly. Its lift is are you ready, 446 and its duration is 280 degrees. At this point we definitely have issues with vacuum and it would be extremely rough at idle, thus increasing the RPM just to get it to idle. For those that figure that isn't possible, by reply is gather up and bring all the cash you can find, because I am happy to say - "How much would you like to bet!". Now from the extreme, to lets say a mid-50s truck cam which topped out around 3600 rpm, becomes the topic where many recipe's for performance have been made. Some by Chrysler Corporation for everything from cars, to boats, to combines and even Massey Harris 101 Super tractors powered by Chrysler Flatheads. The later were built for high torque and low rpm, which is great for plowing a field, but achieving a high way speed, not so much! Today I think we have a catalogue of around 25 cam profiles. Of those we have cam patterns that we use , made for about 6 or 7 cams and of those, the number drops down to 3 or 4 for most engine builds. I think right now among the Kingsbury motorized items we have 14 different cams in use. In the Asche fleet of motorized items I am going to say they have 7 different cam profiles. The major difference, lol, yes I have more junk... I have a marine version, several truck versions, a combine, a water pump, a welder, a compressor which actually uses 4 cylinders to run the engine and 2 cylinders to make air, and an engine that used to be in a certain motorcycle.. lol.. Oh and I have an actual cam from a tank engine, but it isn't in an engine. I could make a pattern if someone ever needed one ! For Fred's engine, we used what many call an Esky 3/4 race cam. The 3/4 stands for stock car racing on a 3/4 mile long track. This is what I today call, a fairly mild cam and we likely sell the most of these. I suspect part of that reason is as I talked about earlier, that people think back to those lumpy, poorly idling v8 engines with wild cams.. The .380 lift cam is going to give Fred 4500 rpm quickly. Its been around a long time and has a quicker rev over stock and was used historically for stock car racing. As you can likely figure out by reading this thread so far, we likely sell the most of these because most guys think they want power..... but..... they want to start it and not hear the engine running or running like a sewing machine. Tons of guys call this cam a race cam.. For me, its far from that. The tech side = 242 degrees of duration and .380 lift Finally I will end the cam conversation for now, with the cam I am using in my 1949 Plymouth. It is what I call a little lumpy but still very much streetable and no, it is nothing like a 1970s over cammed v8 with bad or good timing.. lol but it is definitely aggressive, with a .435 lift and 258 degrees of duration. This cam was developed from tweeking a full race cam through the 1950s and 1960s and was what Harry Hein #90 (NASCAR hall of fame) used at the end of his career. Harry who is still alive would be the uncle of one George Asche Jr. The intake valves open at 20 degrees and close at 58 degrees, while the exhaust opens at 58 degrees and close at 20 degrees. I hope that helps a little Fred, without confusing things too much! Now what is in that Engine of yours, I can not confirm or deny what was originally put in the engine is what is in it now.. Who knows what happens in the middle of the night in George's shop... Only the shadow, or in this case the 1929 Desoto knows for sure.. lol
  36. 7 points
    I was asked if I could start a Nostalgic Chrysler Flathead Racing thread. Of course, Plymouth, Dodge, Desoto, Fargo and Chryslers are all clearly included as are things like a friend of the families who have a Flathead Chrysler in a Model T Ford.. If it has a Mopar Flathead in it, well it likely belongs here. Of course from Stock Car to Drag Racing, Walter Chrysler's engineers have had their fingers in the racing pie pretty much since the birth of the Chrysler Corporation. Along the way the "up and coming" Flathead Chrysler earned its reputation for taking on and blowing away the competition with V8's and more. Along the way, I hope this becomes a spot those who once had closely guarded secrets on how they got a "little more" out of their Flathead Mopar might finally tell all.. I know from the AoK racing family the 50s were the start and the golden age for George Asche and Eddy Kingsbury. George who in the 50's would campaign his 1929 Desoto, powered with a highly modified 265 Chrysler in the famed "Flying Mile" on Daytona beach where he would go undefeated. George raced V8's and even a v12, in a competition that say a big Chrysler Hemi. In the end George whose top speed was 142 mph.. Yes 142 mph would become the gold standard at the Flying Mile that season. While there is no longer Drag Racing on the beach, George still owns the 1929 Desoto, and it still has no problem meeting all the speed limits in North America. On the north of the 49th Parallel flathead racing say the building engines driven by some legendary stock car racers, among those the Legendary Jimmie Howard who was one of the 1st Canadians whose full time job was racing stock cars. That also saw the very 1st multi-carb car in stock car racing history, when Wellington Motors in Guelph Ontario received their 1st "nudge nudge wink wink" dual carb, dual exhaust manifold set that went onto a stock car in the spring of 1952. Armed with the Chrysler Engineering parts Manual supplied by my Grandfather, my Dad waited for inspect to defend the usage of the dual car and dual exhaust combination as it technically met the rules of the day. So as promised.. here is the start of the blog entry.. If you wish, post away.. if you want to email me stuff that you want me to post on your behalf or as part of the blog, feel free to send them to me at - fargopickupking@yahoo.com
  37. 7 points
    In creating this spotters guide for Flathead Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler, Desoto, Fargo intakes my hope was to show related information, pictures of various intakes, and attach any technical information and perhaps vintage ads for them. I am starting it here in hopes of putting something together with the help of many members and then maybe move it to the technical archives. If there is lots of information coming forward, then maybe it becomes a given thread for each different intake For now will do it as a grouping. Why do it here ? Only because I or someone can edit and compile. So 1st up Eddy Edmunds stuff - in my mind the Godfather of custom Mopar flathead intakes.. Attached the picture of 3 of the Edmunds intakes. the dual carb Chrysler, Desoto and Dodge Truck (25 1/2" flathead) and the Edmunds triple for the Chrysler, Desoto and Dodge Truck (25 1/2" flathead) Courtesy of : http://p15-d24.com/user/296-ralph-d25cpe/ The Edmunds instruction manual pages with Linkage Courtesy of: http://p15-d24.com/u...5770-61farnham/ A 1st generation Edmunds dual carb intake for the Plymouth and Dodge (23 1/2" flathead) A 3rd generation Edmunds dual carb intake for the Plymouth and Dodge (23 1/2" flathead) Courtesy of http://p15-d24.com/user/6715-dwest999/ Here is a 2nd generation Edmunds dual carb intake for the Plymouth and Dodge (23 1/2" flathead) with integrated water and for two barrel carbs. This is the Edmunds "Pancake" Intake
  38. 7 points
    In 1936 Eugen Herrigel wrote a 20 page essay about his experience using Daishadokyo to learn archery (under the direction of a master), or more specific, kyūdō (Japanese bow). He later put those writings into a book called "Zen in the Art of Archery". It was published in Germany in 1948 and in the U.S. in 1953. He was interested in how the skills used for sports could be improved by using Zen (meditation), repetitive motion, and less concessions thought. Don't think; let the subconscious do the work. He felt progressive learning was to be practiced until the skill needed was effortless. The title of his book has been used, in variation, extensively. Most famously for the book "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" was written by Robert Maynard Pirsig in 1974. A great book about individuals who looked at life form opposite ends of the spectrum, with the main character attempting to find the middle. They rode for a time across the country, from Minnesota to Northern California. "Sutherland" would represent the romantic character of the story (Zen). He believes all will be alright in the modern world without his help. His is the new motorcycle that needs no care, no maintenance. And if it does, others with the technology will fix it. He lives for the moment. "The Narrator" is the character who rides the old bike, maintains it, knows when something isn't right with it, and fixes it (Mr. Maintenance). Left Brain vs. Right Brain, the Artist vs. the Engineer..... This is where I find myself in the world of my “old truck”. My truck hasn’t died; it will live longer than I will be remembered. But its built from parts across several generations. The term I hear most is Vintage Mod. It looks like it was just pulled out of the barn and put on the street, but really, the original steel is hiding the present day technology. I can feel the conflict in my heart. I love to meditate on the history of my 1950 truck and where its been, what its seen, and where it may end up…..but I’ll be damned if I’m gonna drive 25 miles per hour all the way to town! The first book had put Zen into the art of learning Archery, the second put Zen against the world of mechanized technology. I want to be the guy who enjoys both worlds. Zen can mean to “live in the now” and preventive maintenance could mean the opposite, to think ahead and plan for the best or worst outcome. It’s during the PM work on my truck that I lose my Zen. There is no romance and no apparent reward when it’s done. It’s work, nothing more. Sometimes I drive it with my senses tuned only to the bad sounds and not the good. There is no perfection, and there is no definable “quality” is there? So I ignore the romance of the “old truck” and get the work done. But… … when its sitting perfectly still…..not making a sound….Zen finds its way back to my heart. Not touching a door, a handle or a steering wheel….I stare. My thoughts run deep into how I feel about something that could take me far away, and maybe even bring me back. I wonder if I will ever be able to feel that way when I’m actually driving the thing. Maybe not. Maybe it’s not supposed to be that way for me. I demand performance from my ride, not beauty. But man, is she a beauty. I could never say that too much. I wonder about the guy who first bought her. My truck was saved from the crusher, only 7 vehicles away. They had stopped crushing that weekend, and I bought two trucks that day. Two 1950 trucks, side by side. They were owned by the same guy, who put them directly in line, ready to be crushed. When I was driving on the highway, one truck on the trailer, I had Zen. When I drove the highway again with the other truck, I had Zen. Those two trucks made one good truck. A fast truck, a truck that needs lots of stuff other than Zen. Herrigel and Pirsig are good guys. They both studied philosophy and took the time to write books I enjoy. I read what they are saying, but question if I understand it. I strive to understand myself, but not too much…..I don’t want to miss the things that matter. The stuff that has nothing to do with me. The stuff I keep around the place to remind me “cool” was happening long before I was even thought of. Stuff like my truck. She’s been here awhile, she is here right now, and will be here when I’m gone. I want to find the patience, to give my truck the care it needs and the love it deserves. That part, I do understand. I have created an art to impatience. I need to change that, I want to slow down and let "it" in. I’m working on it…..I’m driving my old truck and working on my Zen. 48D
  39. 7 points
    pflaming

    Fire Sale

    My paternal grandfather was a farmer/pastor in the early 1900's. My grandmother was known for her life of prayer. One summer afternoon they had a major hail and wind storm. This was in Western Nebraska. The next morning at the breakfast table, Grandma noted, "Well Henry, we've got a lot of praying to do", to which Grandpa said, "No, we've got a lot of work to do!" When I was in high school we put up hay on a large meadow. Some neighbors hayed the meadow next to us. In the morning we could not mow hay til the dew dried off. Elmer, the neighbor would periodically grasp a handful of hay and twist it. When a sample was dry he would say. "Well Paul, the sooner to war; the sooner to peace". So now I've got some work to do and a war to be fought. With the forum soldiers along side me the battles will be won thus the war as well. I think the kitty died of smoke, that will be a tough one. The fire is ironic because I was doing a thorough cleaning before I continued, just to prevent such. When I clean I throw trash in one direction and good items go on a large temporary table. Clean rags here, dirty rags there, and crying towels over my shoulder. I was rebuilding a couple of carburetors in the area where the fire started and so I wonder . . . I have an engine on a stand in front of the truck so it certainly protected the grille. One tire is down the others still up, maybe not safe anymore, but holding air. The wires in the cab are toast but the steering wheel is fine, I suspect the gauges will be suspect. So new wiring harness, not interested in cutting and pasting, and anything rubber or plastic as well. I can feel the adrenalin starting to fade so going to take five. Then plan my next seven weeks so I can get the truck ready to drive to the BBQ. Guess then I will name her Phoenix. Maybe everyone can bring a couple rattle cans of paint and we can paint it Saturday morning.
  40. 6 points
    and yes ggdad1951 got to work on a truck after all this year... (assisting John- T)
  41. 6 points
    My experience is a bit different. Dual Webers, shorty headers into a single 2.25 exhaust made a noticeable difference with no internal engine mods.
  42. 6 points
    PT81Jan

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Location: Very South of Germany A quick prestory to the pictures ... Today I went to the Lake to go for a walk with the dog and taking some pictures of my 1939 PT ... But first a quick jump to the last weekend. Winter suddenly has stopped, rain had washed away the salt from the roads over night. I went to the lake early in the morning. Sun was just before rising up. I could see a yellow orange stripe along the horizon, super clear water, swans slowly waking up. What a panorama !!! From our side of the shore you can see the mountains of the Swiss Alps, if the sky is clear. That morning they where super clear, white shining snow on top. Simply perfect ! Unfortunately I neither had a camera nor my PT with me. So I decided to come back the next weekend ... Today morning , Feb. 23rd, 2019 something between 6.00 and 6.30 a.m. Knowing that there is just one access to the shore and it is strictly forbidden to enter it with a vehicle, I arrived a bit too early. Drove in with a slight bad conscience. Nobody was there. But today, no mountain view, just a grey haze. No swan just some scattered ducks. No orange horizon. Damned. Since I took the risk to get serious trouble, I yet decided to take some quick shots with the camera and quickly sneak away off of the shore. Jumped into the truck, wrooom, rear wheels scrabbled in the sand, ooops. A bit less throttle, but too late. Rear wheels went deeper and deeper .... then a man walked by, he was looking a bit wrathful / surprised. I probably like a caught little boy. But hey, that was a colleague from work !! I quick explained my situation, he just: ohooohhh. Now to make it short. He rushed to his home, came back with his car and a rope. (Still nobody else came to the shore - biiig trouble, if the sheriff or a conservationist would have appeared). Hooked in the rope and towed me out of my awkward situation. Yesss !!! I asked him what he wants to get, but he did refuse ... "hmm, maybe a ride in the PT !?" he said. So yes, I gladly will take him to a tour along the lake !!! So here some adventure pics I shot, although they are certainly not perfect: Was it worth it ? For me YESSS !
  43. 6 points
    Bobacuda

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    After looking at all of the winter snow photos, thought I would post one of my truck on Feb 17, a winter's day in Texas! About 64 degrees F, but the high for tomorrow is expected to be 48 degrees and rainy...
  44. 6 points
    49D-24BusCpe

    Happy Birthday George Asche Jr.!

    A HAPPY 87th BIRTHDAY to Mr. Asche! George was born on February 6, 1932. He's been wonderful over the years in sharing his tremendous Mopar Flathead technical knowledge to all of us!
  45. 6 points
    Here’s a shot with the straightened driver’s handle, the airbags set at a cushy 20 psi for what looks like a good neutral or barely raked stance, and the bed & body mounts and bolts are all torqued down for the first time. It came a long way since it was truely the ancient farm truck in the first picture with all mostly original chassis.
  46. 6 points
    40desoto

    Rebuilding engine

    16 months later the engine is done. I think the shop needed some xmas money so the contacted me a month ago to let me know id be done before Xmas.
  47. 6 points
    48Windsor

    JOY! First Drive

    My oldest daughter made it home for Christmas. On a run into town she decided she wanted to try out the old whale. She was pretty proud of herself as was I. Mechanical things tend to petrify her. Made my day!
  48. 6 points
    Going to start a new blog regarding my B1 project instead of posting to the WIP page on the "About" section. Just a lot faster and easier than editing html web pages! A little history, I purchased the truck, a B1C, in early 1999 from the son of the original buyer. The truck had spent it's entire life working on a farm in the Dunbar, Nebraska area. It even came with a copy of the January, 1949 Certificate of Title! I had the truck shipped out to California and the seller had been honest about the condition so I knew I had some work ahead to get it road worthy. Carb rebuild, brake overhaul, radiator flush, tires and tune up and I was back on the road. About two weeks after putting it back into service I was coming back from a dump run and suddenly had no power to the rear axle. Tow truck home and dropped the pumpkin to get out the piece of broken axle in the third member. Probably from metal fatigue from all those years of hard work on the farm! I drove the truck as is for about six years. It did have some bigger issues I knew I would need to address in the not to distant future. Had a crack in the water jacket but stop leak seemed to keep it under control. Smoked badly and needed an overhaul. And I was having to replace the head gasket about once a year. Around 2005 I acquired a B1D parts truck, no engine but full drive line and running gear. After investing this model a bit more I decided to "upgrade" to a 1 ton, with the optional dual 20" rear wheels and a rebuild 230. This model is listed in the factory brochure as a D-116 Code 75 Like all projects life sometimes gets in the way and it is still not finished. Good news is I have all the parts, either acquired or fabricated. Now I just need to get it finished and back on the road! I be posting updates as I reach a new milestones but for a starter I will post a some pics to get your interest. More to come in the months ahead!
  49. 6 points
    I've never written a blog before, but I do have the ability to share what's on my mind to those who will listen. So I guess this is the same thing, only different. To be a blogger, I can see a need to be somewhat entertaining as well as informative. In other words, make sense and don't turn it into a dang lecture about what I think is right or wrong. Yet, to do that, it might be helpful to have an artist's "eye" to create something people can enjoy, without feeling patronized. Lord knows I'm not starting my entries out with opening lines like "Dear Diary" or "You know"....I just can't put that kind of pressure on myself. I will do what I can with "the writer" I might be, "the thinker" inside us all, and the artist I actually am. I can only share how I see things.....really....that's it. I'm not an analyst, reporter, or anchorman. I am the man on the street who never got his interview. So here I am. This is my marker. I'm gonna go think of stuff, try and create an idea, then write it down.......should be fun.
  50. 6 points
    Many site visitors appear to arrive with the pre-conceived opinion that some technologies because they are old, are outdated, obsolete and functionally replaced by newer technology. Case in point are two common forum topics, oil bath air cleaners and bypass oil filters. Both these technologies have been around for many decades and in fact perform better than the "newer" technologies of full flow spin-on oil filters and paper air filters. Let take a closer look at both. 
 I ride and wrench on dirt bikes and quads for fun. I mostly ride in the California coastal mountains, noted for dry, hot and very dusty conditions. All my machines use oil soaked foam air filters because they are more effective than paper filters. When our cars and trucks were first sold dirt roads were the norm, not the exception. Chrysler used the most cost effective solution of the day, oil bath air cleaners. They provide very effective cleaning and unrestricted air flow. They are easy and cheap to maintain. So why would you want to change to a less effective and more expensive paper air filter? Most common reason is they are a lot of maintenance and the oil spills out of the pan and into the carb. Both reasons are not very good! Back in the 40's and 50's vehicle owners drove on a lot (including the occasional oil/pcp waste oil covered) on dirt roads and you needed to maintain oil bath air filters on a regular basis. Today we just drive on pavement. I personally have seen the air filter oil go two years in service and still have clear clean oil in the filter pan. The extra maintenance argument doesn’t hold for today’s use. I have driven mopar flatheads since 1968. I have never seen a properly serviced oil bath air cleaner leak oil into the carb or on the engine. If yours puked oil over the engine then you overfilled the air cleaner oil pan. Pretty simple solution to that problem! And don't forget oil bath air cleaners do a better job of feeding your engine clean filter air than a paper filter while being cheaper to maintain. One for old tech!



 Now lets move to often maligned bypass filter. This is the source of so many incorrect internet myths the conversation becomes funny. "They only filter part of your engine oil..." or "Look at how small the piping is, how can it clean all the oil" and "It take forever for all your oil to go through a bypass filter". The best myth is full flow spin on filters do a better job of filtering than bypass filters. None of the above statement are true. First a brief explanation of how a bypass filter works. Your oil system is a closed system under pressure created by the oil pump. Oil circulates through the engine in the oil gallery. You can see the galley running along the driver’s side of the engine. This pressurized oil flow provides lubrication to main, rod and cam bearing so the journals actually "float" on a thin film of oil so they don't overheat and fail. This pressurized oil system also has a safety valve in case oil pressure gets too high, the oil pressure relief valve. The bypass oil filter taps into the oil gallery and dirty oil is piped to the bypass filter under pressure. (The same pressure your see on your oil pressure gauge). It is then filtered and readied for return to the oil pan. Bypass filters actually filter much smaller particles than full flow spin-on filters. Full flow filters are plumbed to directly feed oil to the mains and they have to pass high volumes of oil or the bearing will fail. As a result they can't filter to the same degree as a bypass filter. When the clean oil exits a bypass filter it goes back to the oil pan via the pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve acts as an oil traffic cop, that is, if the engine oil pressure is high enough the pressure relief valve opens and clean oil flows back to the oil pan. If oil pressure is low, like at idle, the valve stays shut maintaining minimum safe engine oil pressure bypassing clean oil return from the bypass filter setup. Now lets address a couple of the myths. Think about how often your engine runs with minimum oil pressure. That is the only time clean oil is not returning to the oil pan from the filter. Basically anytime above idle and your bypass filter is working. What about those skinny oil lines, they can't move much oil, right? Wrong! The oil in moving under 20-60 pounds of pressure. On my B1 I once had a cracked (not broken) oil return line. I lost over 3 quarts in about 45 seconds. Based on that measure I thing it is safe to say all engine oil is being filtered every couple minutes the engine is above idle. Modern full flow filters for modern engines must be able to pass large volumes of oil to provide full lubrication for mains and rods, plus have a bypass when the filters are dirty and clogged. They just don't filter dirty oil as well as a bypass filter. Bypass filters are still used extensively on long haul trucks, plus their are many aftermarket kits to add a functional bypass filter setup to modern engines. Why? They do a better job of filtering then a full flow filter!

 Lastly, what about those remote mount kits for using a spin-on filter instead of the stock bypass system? They basically replace the bypass filter with an easier to change spin-on filter. My question is why would you want to replace a very efficient bypass filter with a spin on that typically allows particles 3 times larger to be returned to the oil pan? 

Like I said, old technology doesn't always mean obsolete technology! And if your engine doesn't have a bypass filter setup we have used units for sale in the P15-D24 Store. They also show up on eBay all the time.


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