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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/27/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    CO54

    54 C1C6 Build

    Okay, so some tools arrived today from Amazon, managed to get the correct puller on the steering wheel, a few adjustments, and some torquing on it. Then, POP it came off. Steering gear is pulled from the cab! Steering wheel is hanging on the garage wall for time being. A couple side notes, if anyone comes across the steering wheel situation, let me know, the tool is yours to borrow. Plus lil man took 1st place in his wrestling tournament today! So it was a god day.
  2. 2 points
    For those interested in this sort of thing I've made a sketch of my original axle compared to the 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Dana 44 axle showing the relationship of the perches from old to new. Brad
  3. 2 points
    Hickory

    Northeast member check in please

    Fulton New York, sounds like fun. I haven't taken the car over a 20 mile ride yet. May not make it with the car
  4. 2 points
    dun da dun DA, dun da dun, dun da da DA!
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    keithb7

    New Car Day! 1938 P6 Plymouth Deluxe

    As they lay tonight. ‘38 Full brake disassembly. Rear axles and diff coming out next. I have no diff rebuilding experience so I’ll be turning here to the great membership, for some guidance. I’ll start a new separate thread on rebuilding the diff. I have not seen a diff rebuild thread on the forum in a while. Should be fun.
  7. 1 point
    bkahler

    Timing Gears and chain info needed please

    Vintage Power Wagons in Iowa. I bought most of my engine components from them
  8. 1 point
    JBNeal

    Lug centric or hub centric

    On my '48 with 6.50-16 tires, there's about 3" from tire sidewall to rear fender, and about 5" from sidewall to front fender...
  9. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    23" short block weight?

    750 lbs seems kinda high for a fully assembled 23" engine.. 565 lbs was stuck in my mind on a post as long time ago.
  10. 1 point
    I received my Scarebird kit and all the parts yesterday from a member who decided to go all ECI. Can't wait to start. The only problem is I have is a unheated garage in Minnesota and Spring doesn't come as early as it once did. I rebuilt the front suspension the summer of 2017 with new kinpins and springs.
  11. 1 point
    ozzmonaut

    dual charging setup question

    Not all at once. I did swap a coil in a couple of minutes, 5 minutes to swap carbs, changed a tire in 3 minutes (use antiseize on lugbolts to make this possible) LOL I leave 10 minutes early for work just in case.
  12. 1 point
    I'm in process of installing disc brakes on my 39 Plymouth PT81 1/2ton pickup. I did a bunch of research and concluded that Rusty Hope, Scarebird, and ECI all to be decent if installed correctly. Rusty hope uses a in - rotor hub which I liked better than the separate aluminum hubs the others use, but even having the skill, I did not want to modify my steering knuckles and steering arms. I believe also because Rustyhope's mounting plates are mounted between the steering knuckles and arms it might require changing tie rod length if there is not enough adjustment? ECI's rotors are customized (redrilled Firebird rotors for 4.5 b.c.) making it more of a pain if you ever need to replace them. Rustyhope offsets my wheels just about 1 inch out per side. ECI 1/2 inch per side and Scarebird 3/8 inch per side. Rustyhope and Scarebird claim no issue with using original wheels (16" on my truck). I ultimately chose Scarebird and a jeep master cylinder which several on p15-d24 have had good luck with the trucks. There's another kit offered by "The Ram Man" which uses all mopar parts which is cool, but on the trucks require some steering arm modifications. The Ram Man's videos are worth watching but he did not respond to some questions I sent him. I found the others decent about answering my questions. Anyhow, make sure kingpins and bushings are good first and keep posting your progress.
  13. 1 point
    Drilling and tapping was easy and I did it on the car. I used vice grips to lock the spindle in place while I did it. Rustyhope is the best kit out there.
  14. 1 point
    rockingjd

    Which rear end to swap in 1946 WD15

    I used a '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear under my 49 1/2 ton. 3.55 ratio and disk rear brakes. It fit nice but the rear bolt pattern was not 5 on 4.5. It was also a little bit narrower. An adapter fixed both width and bolt pattern.
  15. 1 point
    Sniper

    engine rebuilt and back in car

    Cheaper than new axles though
  16. 1 point
    dpollo

    engine rebuilt and back in car

    a speedi sleeve makes a nice repair but they are spendy.
  17. 1 point
    Todd B

    1951 B3F Build Thread

    When I did my semi I took them bushings out that look like brass. They’re technically a different metal but I don’t remember what. I took them to an old German machinist and he measured them and handed them back to me. Went to get them week later and I tried to install them. They appeared to be a little to large in diameter and I could not slide them in. I called the old machinist and told him I can’t get them to slide in. He very bluntly said put them in a freezer for an hour and slide them in and there’s no need for you to call me back. They slid right in. He even made grooves around the outside for the grease to roll through. It amazed the heck out of me.
  18. 1 point
    Start with removal of the shiny special pieces. Usually long lead time for restoration by specialists. Last year for the Dodge Brothers enamel emblem. Sent to Karla Maxwell of Maxwell Enamels, http://www.maxwellenamels.com/Home_Page.html, for restoration. Upon receipt, Karla wrote: "Your UNIQUE badge just arrived. Did not see it in the photo but your badge is the rarer USA version. It is my understanding that the USA only showed on vehicles meant for export. Those badges don't show up very often." Certainly can't explain that, since the truck was found in Colorado. Continue to remove bright shiny objects.
  19. 1 point
    NickPickToo

    In Memory of Don Coatney

    I'm a new member, but I learned quickly to look extra close when I got a note from Mr. Coatney or sourced one of his threads on an issue I was studying. Mrs Coatney and family. Thank you for sharing him with us.
  20. 1 point
    linus6948

    Bucketlist Car For Me Aquired

    Thanks for the kind words guys, I think of it as another antique time machine to try and catch Peter Pan in. Here is a shot of the car with the stock wheels.
  21. 1 point
    MackTheFinger

    Bucketlist Car For Me Aquired

    Nice car!! My sister bought a '67 396 SS 4 speed convertible brand-spanking new. At the time I had a '65 Mustang with a 289 4-speed. She wanted to drive my Mustang one day and a couple of hours later called and asked "How in the heck do you get this car into reverse?" She didn't know that reverse was in a different location on a Ford top-loader than on a GM Muncie. 🙂 I have really fond memories of my dear departed sister and her Chevelle. Blasting along the freeway in New Orleans listening to Sgt. Pepper and flying through one-horse Mississippi towns after midnight at 100+ MPH, howling at the moon with my half-psychotic BIL behind the wheel.. There'd sometimes be a red light in the rear view but by then we were so far ahead they couldn't catch up! Those were the good old days!!
  22. 1 point
    Andydodge

    331 hemi heads

    Classic............where do I send the cheque.........lol.............thanks mate.......andyd
  23. 1 point
    Todd B

    Engineering flaws

    I did not want to high jack Marks TODD build thread so I thought I would start my own. Talking about engineering flaws, I rented a JLG lift for a month few months and they have the exhaust blowing at the operator. It’s not only noisy, it’s annoying as hell with the smoke blowing towards you. I looked at it and took out three bolts and rotated it. It’s only being held by two of the three bolts but now it blows away from the operator. What were they thinking??
  24. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Headlight relay verification

    You stated it yourself. Since the brake light load isn't going through the ammeter it doesn't sense the current demand. However, the voltage regulator does see the voltage drop in the battery and increases output of the generator, thus showing a positive charge on your ammeter. If the brake light circuit was pulling through the ammeter it would read a negative number for the current draw of the lights, and the positive charge from the generator would offset that. The ammeter would then only show the difference.
  25. 1 point
    greg g

    Headlight relay verification

    I guess the question of doing two relays or one depends on a couple of factors. First being the age condition of the dimmer switch itself as they can be a significant source of resistance in the circuit ase videnced by the number of them that won't pass any current after they have sat for a while. The other is, how often you operate with high beams on. If most of your after dark operation is around town, then maybe the relay for low beams only is an option. If you spend a lot of time at night on country 2 lane roads maybe only the high beams need a relay. Lots of options depending on you use and current condition of the components of your lighting circuits.. I found a significant increase in headlamp performance a few years back by cleaning the area where the ground from the lamp goes to the body. On the p15 the ground screw goes to the part of the headlight bucket the receives all the water, mud, and other stuff thrown up by the front tires. I drilled a new hole and attached a new ground wire to a spot that is out of the direct path of tire spray. My 6v head lamps put out as much light as my 12v setup in my Studebaker. And of course no one will mention the elephant in the room... At my age, I can't see at night like I did ten years ago, regardless of how bright my lights are.
  26. 1 point
    keithb7

    Headlight relay verification

    @Jeff I induThe purpose of a relay: In the old days, the lights were wired up so that all the amperage needed from the ammeter, to light up the head lights, (hi & low beam) went from the ammeter to the head light switch. Then from there all the way out to the headlights. This is not ideal. Heavier amp loads are travelling through the headlamp switch, and also farther unnecessary distances. In time, as the old cars age, the lights get dimmer, mainly due to poor condition of old corroded wire and rusty/loose poor ground connections. This coupled with old headlight switches that also are boreline usable, can be dangerous. Things get hot and could ignite. This indeed happens. So always mount a fire extinguisher in your old car somewhere. What a relay does is relieve the switch, and the wires with long travel distances, from the heavy amp load that is required to illuminate headlights. A smaller amp load signal is sent through the headlight switch and from there on to the relay. The relay is another switch, that then switches on the heavy amp load from the battery as shown above, directly to the headlamps. This is safer, and often the headlights actually glow brighter.
  27. 1 point
    Sniper

    265 Chrysler Industrial Project Engine

    Here's a link to The Freewheeling Tony Smith's rod work album on face book, this guy is an artist. Rod work on Mopar flathead 6's
  28. 1 point
    Pulled the pan and pulled the valve covers. Couldn't ask for better results! No sign of water damage anywhere. The best news of all is the crank does turn!! After taking the pictures I got to thinking about it and decided to try again. As I turned on the crank nut only the nut turned and then after thinking about it I suspected that I hadn't tightened the crank nut back when I was assembling the front of the engine. At the time I was really only test fitting things and then the move from Arkansas to Kentucky took place so progress stopped. So I tried turning a little harder and all of a sudden the pulley turned indicating the crank had as well. As you can see in the pictures there is an abundance of lube inside the engine that gradually moved south over the years. With luck sometime this winter I'll try and start the engine. Brad
  29. 1 point
    Haydenh

    your Trucks History

    I still need to write in to SCA to request the build card for my truck as I think it would have a pretty interesting history being a 1948. All of the information I got from the previous owner about its history was that it was his grandpa's grain truck in Rexburg, Idaho. On the side of the passenger and driver's side door are: "L.V. Sorensen Rexburg, Idaho". I wasn't able to turn up much through internet search of the name or location so it might remain a mystery. It did have sides for grain hauling but they were fairly rotten so I pulled them off and will be replacing something with a little more visibility. The dump bed works great though! I did discover from the serial # that it was the 618th B-1-J to roll off the line which I thought was pretty neat. It does however have a 251 flathead from a 1962 WM300 Powerwagon as its engine so I don't know if the original froze up in the Idaho cold and cracked or if the old worn out engine just got replaced. The carburetor is a little wonky and I'll have to ask some folks to help me figure out what's missing from it and where to get a rebuild kit if I can't find anything from a forum search. Its got a 5 speed with the strange shift pattern but I don't believe its any sort of overdrive, top speed is around 50mph (with iPhone gps) downhill. Thats all about the history I know on it but I'll be lurking around and asking questions as I fix up the truck that has been fitfully named "Clifford" because its a big red dog!
  30. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    your Trucks History

    these bigger trucks sure got used. in getting the build card for mine, I learned it was ordered by the US Navy and afterwards it possibly served as a fire department fleet rig. do you know the history of your truck or have a guess how it was used?
  31. 1 point
    Frank Elder

    My new 54

    What an awesome color combo my favorite in the world is the Dodge three tone....yellow, black and white.
  32. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    B4GA- 152

    On my B4GA I am choosing to try and “revive” this truck with as little expense as I can, keeping it stock, without compromising safety. (Because it makes me smile.) I pulled the head, because there was no compression (head gasket). The valve seats are pretty pitted….. I am lapping the valves and cleaning up the seats and some parts….. My plan is to use as much as I can from the truck, the way I bought it. My expense so far is: the truck itself $1. J Nickle welding rod for exhaust manifold $8. (Local welding supply store) New intake to exhaust manifold bolts, nuts, washers and exhaust pipe bolts $8. (Local hardware store) New head and manifold gasket kit $52. ($38 at rock auto $14. shipping)
  33. 1 point
    I've locked em up enough times in my long ownership. safe and straight. This truck was my daily driver for almost 10 years here in Seattle tacoma Everett area.... It probably stops as good as most of the disc brake conversions..maybe better. Although too many hard stops and the fade factor could be an issue... but I never drive it to that point especially now that it's an elderly though very healthy antique .. .To me it's just my good old dodge truck with excellent brakes I've driven longer than most of the people who see it have been alive.
  34. 1 point
    This might or might not help.
  35. 1 point
    Worden18

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    My 1948 B-1-D
  36. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    PTO controls

    anyone with PTO controls have photos of levers and the "stop" location? originally my "HH" was missing the floor mounted parking brake lever (odd for a 52 to have the floor brake lever) one control was in the cut out of the center pan as kind of seen here the other one was crudely cut in the floor board with a "hasp hinge" as a stop I fixed the missing parking brake issue and need to relocate the other PTO lever.....
  37. 1 point
    Goddom

    your Trucks History

    I still need to get the build card for mine. After I got mine home I was just looking through it and found a plastic envelope with proof of insurance and such from the owner before the guy I bought it from. Also in the envelope was a bunch of pictures. There was also a bill of sale for $200 dated in 1995. I suspect that was for tax purposes... or maybe he did buy it for $200. I am guessing at about that time (mid to late 90s) is also when the cab got painted silver. I know the previous owner never took the truck off his property and he owned if for about 7 years. He used it to build a gravel driveway on his property. This was all in the upper peninsula of Michigan. Then as I was cleaning up the flaking paint on the dump box I found it used to say "Coal." So at some point it mus have worked as a coal hauler. I am guessing that maybe this was also around the same area.
  38. 1 point
    Goddom

    PTO controls

    This is what I have as far as photos go right now. I was mostly just taking pictures of the foot well - before and after painting with POR15. I can take close ups when I get home if you need something different. The one of the left engages and disengages the PTO. The one on the right raises and lowers the dump.
  39. 1 point
    BobT-47P15

    Paint colors (engine & accessories) list

    This list may be available on this website somewhere, but thought I would post it again in case some had not seen it. The colors apply to a Plymouth P15, but should be similar on other brands and models. Additional Plymouth Paint Information (Dodge is believed to be similar) Silver Black (Semi Gloss) Gray Unpainted Block Oil Pan Head Water Pump Oil Pump Paint Details Front Engine Mounts Mainfolds Clutch Housing Transmission Oil Filler Tube Dipstick Tube Front Pulley Thermostat Housing Heater Bypass Hose Starter Generator Distributor Body Wire Loom Holder Coil Holder Coil Air Breather Air Cleaner Air Cleaner Steady Breather Brace Valve Chamber Vent Valve Chamber Tube Fuel Pump Shield Fan & Pully Oil Filter Filter Brace Steering Box Entire Frame Brake Master Cylinder Brake Lines Inner Front Fender Shields Radiator Side Shields Engine Dust Shields Hood Lock Plate Brace Horns And Bracket Bumper Supports Radiator Support Radiator Cross Bar Under Body Inside Floorpan Underside Of Hood Underside Of Trunk Lid Front Stone Guards Rear Stone Guards Front Fender Center Panel Grille Panel All Fenders (Inside) Inside Trunk Area Trunk Hinges Trunk Wheelwells (Trunk Side) Backside Of Wheels Fuel Pump Carb Fuel Lines Oil & Vacuum Lines Accelerator linkage Shift rods
  40. 1 point
    keithb7

    We and the Windsor 2018

    Took "The '53" all the way down the big hill today. To the valley bottom. Put on my new seat belt and put the tranny in low range. I went 15-20 Mph to the bottom. Low range holds 4,000 lbs back pretty good! Not unlike a master cylinder, I need to pump up my confidence in my recent brake overhaul job. Time for a visit to the exhaust Doctor. Tail pipe is rusted through in the low spots where water sits I guess. Tail pipe broke off at muffler too. All rusted up. Its all going. New exhaust pipe and muffler from header back. The mechanic is in his 50’s I estimate. I offered to show him how to do the Fluid Torque Drive boogie. He had never seen a F.T.D. Before. He was intrigued. Asked how long it was around for. I could not rightly answer. How long was it around? The ‘53 will spend the night the shop. I’ll pick it up tomorrow evening. One last fearful look as I walk away. Nobody else has turned a wrench on my car since I took possession.
  41. 1 point
    Finished the exhaust this morning. Photo shows it all welded and ready for paint. Video shows it installed. Estimates for a shop to make the dual exhaust for my 47 coupe ranged from $900 to $1400. I did it for $400 and had parts left over from the bend kit that I bought. First part shows the exhaust without the splash pans. Shop said that there was no way to keep it. Second part show that I was able to do the impossible I guess. Not a very good video but can't expect much for only 18" of clearance, holding a light in one hand and the camera in the other. lol
  42. 1 point
    My father and I made the 4 hour trip to Venus and spent a few hours with George today. I'm getting closer to transforming my 1947 237 engine in to a dual carb 265. George was gracious enough to give us the "nickel" tour which not only included merchandise but some of his past and current projects. It was a day spent well, with one of the nicest gentleman there is. Rob
  43. 1 point
    Years ago, I picked up the smallest Craftsman siphon unit that was on sale to clean up some wheels and smaller parts. I used it inside a pole barn with a dirt floor, so I employed an old pickup bed liner as a trough of sorts to work in. Even using care as to keep the sand aimed on the parts, I ended up getting sand on everything inside that barn (dust too) as the sand would bounce off the work parts and randomly track in every direction. Even wearing a hood, welding gloves, long sleeves & ear plugs, I still got dust in my eyes & nose, judging by the sinus headaches & whutnot that would follow the next day after use. And I was ignorant of the moisture filter that was needed, so my nozzle clogged often from condensation from the compressor. After going through several bags of sand doing sample parts & one wheel, I calculated my operating costs and compared that to the cost of a media blasting company that is in town, and I opted to have them blast my other wheels. Those wheels were scaly rusty, so those guys were gonna do a much better job than my li'l setup could do. But for other parts, the siphon unit did well, and with practice and patience, I cleaned up some sheet metal without damage. I also taught myself how to setup everything so once the blaster was running, I was cleaning one part after another with minimal stops and eventually learned how to estimate how much sand was needed to clean certain size parts. As I gear up to do some more sand blasting, I plan on making a temporary shed of sorts inside that pole barn so as not to lose so much sand, making a 2x4 frame with poly plastic sheeting to knock the sand back down to the bed liner for re-use. I definitely would not trust a media blasting company to do any sheet metal as them folks just knock rust off and don't care about warping.
  44. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Pilot-House Decals Are Done.

    I want to thank B1B Keven for putting together this project and helping support the site!
  45. 1 point
    DutchEdwin

    headlights showing almost no light

    The information I have found so far is this adjustment manual on the relays. Missing is the section where it mentions the fuse rating. HRB-4201 relay.pdf
  46. 1 point
    DutchEdwin

    headlights showing almost no light

    Randy, thanks, I did some seaching on this site, and come up with some good posts. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=16390&highlight=headlights+relay http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=28661&highlight=headlights+relay Also the wiring diagram I was planning to use.
  47. 1 point
    JBNeal

    1949 B-1-D-126 BUILD THREAD 1-ton

    Now that the major house repairs are done, I've been able to get back to work on this ol' beast. The steering column & gearbox parts were all cleaned up & treated with Rust Cure. The original column was bent, and the gearbox end was torn off. Its replacement was a pitted column that had the shifter brackets removed. The holes in the column were filled with JB Weld, and I figgered I'd try to smooth out the surface with the JB Weld also. All of these parts were foam brush painted with Rust-Oleum primer & semi-gloss black, wet sanding the non-cast pieces in-between coats. I only tried to smooth off the surface to the touch on the non-cast pieces, so brush marks are visible, but only from about a foot away...good enough for these parts. Assembly was waaay easier than disassembly...The gearbox seal I picked up from Roberts years ago, National 240151. I opted to use the John Deere corn head grease for lubricant, even though the fill plug is stamped "HEAVY OIL ONLY". I filled the chamber between the sector shaft bushings with grease before installing the sector shaft. With the gearbox held so that the sector shaft was vertical, the cavity was filled with grease, then the worm shaft was rotated about a dozen times back & forth to settle the grease out, as it does flow, especially when agitated. This movement allowed the grease to fill the roller bearings, around the worm gear, and through the sector shaft gear, as the gearbox became whisper-quiet and effort was greatly reduced after shaft cycling. Permatex black was used to make the gasket for the gearbox cover...I debated on making a paper gasket for this gearbox, but I had recently serviced the axles on my '02 Ram 4x4 CTD, where both axles use RTV for differential cover gaskets. So I figgered making a RTV gasket for this application would be just as acceptable. The adjustment was made per shop manual instructions for the sector shaft to find the high spot on the worm gear, and the assembly cover cap screws were torqued. Gearbox installation should be in the next few days, with all new bolts...then we'll see if that motor will fire after sitting for 4 years
  48. 1 point
    B1B Keven

    Gauge faces.

    They're done. I also made and had printed some clock faces using the same font. Shoot me a PM if interested.
  49. 1 point
    TodFitch

    Rear transmission seal

    I do wish that people who go to all the effort to find a currently available matching part would post the Chrysler part number for the thing they are matching.... Am I correct in assuming that this Timken seal number 471827 is for the Chrysler part 600420 listed earlier in this thread? If so, I'll add it to my cross reference database. PS: That Timken number when entered into the NAPA Online advanced search gives a match CarQuest number for a manual transmission rear seal with nearly identical measurements. The NAPA number is NOS 15620 which is listed for $11.50.
  50. 1 point
    grey beard

    installing a pcv in my flathead.

    Ken Bartz, You have the righr general idea there, with a few exceptions. Engine vacuum pulls a constant negative pressure on the crankcase via the PCV valve, keeping all contaminants, combustion byproducts and mostly condensation out of the crankcase where they would otherwise prodce sludge. Where the oil fill tube comes in is that with the pcv system pulling a vacuum on the crankcase all the time, there must be a source for clean air to enter to replace what is being pulled out. The stock oil fill cap with a small filter in it could be used, but is not a truly reliable air filter for a pcv system It worked okay for the road draft tube, because not much air passed that way, and a quick wash out with parts cleaner each oil change kept it clean. With a pcv system, a constant stream of air is moving through the crankcase, creating a need for a constant source of clean, filtered air. My oil fill tube has a spingloaded flap on top and a hose fitting on the side. From this fitting a hose pulls clean air out of the air filter body on the engine intake to supply fresh crankcase air. All newer engines have used this type crankcase ventillation system since the early sixties, so this is nothing very new - just a whale of a lot better than a road draft tube. JMHO:) (See pics of my B1B PCV system in a sister thread above this one.)
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