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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/03/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    pflaming

    Age 80, a new normal

    I’m there, 81 in September so best to say some thankyous. (1) Names very difficult but Plymouthy Adams, Tim Estrada, Casper 50, Bob Riding quickly emerge. (2) Quick, unexpected passing of friends and relatives. Lost two, one with a six month illness, the other a 60 day illness. (3) personal note: my health seems to be good, only two pills per day, eye sight is fine, no apparent heart or lung problems. But do have a severe hearing loss, I.e., cannot hear without my hearing aid, and now struggling with leg strength (4) forum gratitude : when I started 12 years ago did not understand intake vs exhaust manifold, , the three essentials for an engine to run, the difference between an engine and a motor, negative/ positive ground, body vs chassis. This forum taught me mechanical skills, personal tolerance, better respect for alternate views, religion, politics, and profanity are toxic, the means and value of internet friendships. Few things have been as enjoyable, rewarding, mental expansion as what I have enjoyed this past decade. So then, my unreserved, heartfelt gratitude to each and all. I trust this post is premature, but better that than never. Paul Flaming aka pflaming
  2. 2 points
    IMHO, heat risers are highly over-rated and even more highly misunderstood. The real purpose for adding them when this stuff was manufactured was to keep the carburetors from icing up on damp cold mornings in fall and spring weather in colder climates. You Calofornia fellows could throw them away and you would never miss them. For those of you who feel they are teddibbbbbly important, consider thiis; Heat risers went the way of the outhouse in the early to mid fifties. If they are so critical to engine warmup and performance, how do we live without them today? Ford used a hot air duct from the exhaust manifold up to the air cleaner for the same reason - to keep carburetor icing from occurring on cold damp mornings. This is not a aproblem below freezing or in warm weather. If you live in an area like I do - southeast PA - and the winters get pretty cold, just let it run two or three minutes before you hit the road. Once the exhaust manifold warms up, even a perfectly operating heat riser would already be open anyhow, and is just along for the ride. In no way will a heat riser change your long range economy or your over-the-road performance. Why, nearly half of the guys on these forums have headers or split manifolds - all of which run without them. If yuou are still not convinced, larger trucks and tractors were manufactured without them, as well. I read threads about people worrying about issues like fuel mileage and performance - and read other threads by folks who attribute all their ills to poorly operating heat risers. Likely as not, they cause relational problems with mother-in-laws, as well. This thinking is simply fallacious. Even a brand new, pefectly functioning heat riser is wide open after three or four minutes of engine operation - or it is not workking peoperly. Having said all that, I blocked mine open rather than go to the work of splitting the manifolds to fix a broken spring. Just move it in the clockwise direction until the counter weight is nearly horizontal, or until it won't move anymore - and bend it inward till it hits the manifold and stays put in that position, and you will never need it again. A good working, high temp thermostat will get your engine operating temperature up to normal much faster than all the heat risers in the world. If you REALLY want something to worry about, make sure your heat riser is not stuck in the CLOSED - or counter clockwise - position. Very few things will affect overall engine pefformance and life as quickly as a stuck closed heat riser, for you are literally cooking the carburetor all the time the engine is warmed up. Now if your heat riser is stuck closed, and your thermostat is stuck open, you have a recipe for short engine life, lousy pefformance and terrible gas mileage. There's something we could all do well to worry about.
  3. 2 points
    Sam Buchanan

    electric fuel pump

    I think you are considering increasing the complexity of the fuel system four-fold. The relay is unnecessary, as is the separator. The inertia switch is a bit controversial, I ran an electric pump in the P15 for a year without the switch, and still have second thoughts about it after I installed it....just something else to fail. Not sure an engine fire is our biggest risk in a car that has no passenger crash protection........ All you need to make your car run nicely is a mechanical fuel pump block-off plate, an electric pump, some wire and a fuse. The other items are wants. 😀
  4. 2 points
    Ruderhaus

    Love At First Sight

    I wanted an antique vehicle to tinker with, and to use as a daily driver for the short 2 mi round trip from the house to the shop. I was looking for something unique that would also serve as an eye catcher when people drove by my store. One day a customer of mine mentioned he had an old Dodge sitting in his yard for the last 20 years that he was not going to do anything with, and would sell it to me. One look at this vehicle and I fell in love. I could see the potential. Yep, he was in bad shape but I didn’t see all that. I had a vision. My wife calls the truck TANK, because of the green color, and his size. She names all our vehicles. TANK is a 1950 B2C. My friend offered to store the vehicle at his property until we finished building our new house and my garage. The next day the truck was in his garage, on jacks, with the butterfly hood removed, and when I walked in his shop Al had the engine turned over and running on three cylinders. My suggestion: If you want to restore an old vehicle, get about two or three retired guys involved: One with a machine shop, one with a garage, and one that was a farmer. These guys got nothing to do, and lots of knowledge. Long story short: here is what we’ve done so far. We pulled the head and had it milled. While it was off we then pushed on the valves as we cranked the motor until they quit sticking. Al helped me rebuild the carburetor, and do a full tune up. I purchased a kit from AAJ Brakes and modernized the stopping system: modern disks, calipers, piping, master cyl. Swing pedal, and while we were at it put in a hydraulic slave cyl., and clutch swing petal. Roger, the owner of AAJ lives in Portland, so I was able to drive down to his shop and meet with him. He really hooked me up with his break kit. He was very helpful and fun to talk with about our love for old vehicles. Most of his kits are for cars, and this was a unique application for a ¾ ton. In the end I had to get 5 on 5 lug pattern rims from a 70’s GMC truck so the rotors fit inside the rim. George had to drill the rear rotors to fit the 5 on 5 lug pattern. George also fabricated a new floorboard and battery well too, and patched rust holes in the cab body, replaced the front cab mounts and surrounding rusted floor, and took dents out of the roof, and fixed the frame where the rear cross member was rusted out, and replaced the rear shock mounts, and built me a custom gas tank to replace the Swiss cheese original, and installed a one wire alternator and custom bracket (George can make anything in his shop), and repaired the bottom of the rusted doors, and the back of the cab, and replaced the king pins in the front end, and installed the electric fuel pump he talked me in to buying. Over the summer I got a crash course in body work, and learned how to weld and grind and weld and grind, and grind, and grind. Oh yea, and sand and sand. At the end of the summer, 6 months after first arriving at Al’s place, TANK drove on his own power, up to my new garage from George’s shop in town. I now know a little more about a Bridgeport mills, and hydraulic presses, and all kinds of sheet metal bending, shearing, stamping, snipping, and welding, and the plasma cutter Oh boy, and rebuilding a carb., and flat head motors, etc….. George is a capitalist. At first, I paid him for his time, but after a while, I think he got more value out of me learning and him instructing, and he finally gave me the keys to his shop so I could work on the truck when he was gone. TANK now sits in my new garage. I rewired the alternator harness, amp gauge, ignition switch, and battery charging system for 12v. I have all the gauges working properly too, and a remote filter system installed, and I removed the oil pan and cleaned out the gunk, and painted the pan hot rod orange, and this week I am replacing the leaking water pump. I’m sure I missed things I fixed. Oh yea, repaired the choke and idle cables, and persuaded the emergency brake to work with a little WD-40 on the cable. I’m working my way towards the back. I am going to replace the fluids in the transmission and rear end next. Final stage is to reassemble the bed and paint the truck. I want it to be on the road by the end of this summer. So that is about it. I am infinitely grateful for the Pilothouse forum and after discovering the site, and observing that it looks like a great bunch of people, I decided to join, and maybe add to the knowledge base. Oh yea, Ruderhaus is German for Pilothouse.
  5. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Pin on distributor drive

    IF you have access to an arbor press...this is good device to use....if you wish to tap it out with a punch and grooved v-block...carefully file the pin flush to the collar and proceed from there...odds are it may be distorted and as such larger than the actual drilled hole whereupon any further driving will cause more squish and enlarged the diameter...look at it very close...chose which end may be the bet for filing down and leave the distorted end as the already exited portion.
  6. 2 points
    pflaming

    Starting my B2C restoration.

    My truck looked like yours, under that oxidation I found this! I got a ton of compliments.
  7. 2 points
    dndrodshop

    engine swap

    Sedan Delivery project - 5.2 EFI Mopar motor, 5 speed manual, air ride suspension , Dakota front clip, 4-bar rear suspension
  8. 2 points
    Most cars on the road today have fuel injection with relatively high pressure in the fuel lines. And the pump is usually in the tank pushing rather than pulling the fuel. So vapor lock is not the a problem with an "everyday car" nowadays like it was back in the day of carburetors. So the oil companies are often making their fuel more volatile than they once did. For that reason the heat riser probably made more difference "way back when" than it does now. On the other hand, because of the gasoline available vapor lock in the older cars is more of problem now than when the cars were new. All that said, from personal experience -- at least on my car -- I think the heat riser helps on cold start drivability.
  9. 1 point
    ggdad1951

    Vendors for truck parts

    A few new people recently had me thinking to create a sticky post with the vendors we all know and love so it's easier to find for new members. Feel free to add as you see fit! Please add a SHORT blurb about what they do/have. Also check out any banner adds you see from website supporters! https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog <---many Power Wagon parts that fit our trucks, engine parts https://dcmclassics.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops (some NOS available) https://www.oldmoparts.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops https://www.midwestmilitary.com/ <---ONLY source of correct bed-strips for DODGE trucks (others are Ford or Chevy parts), other random similar parts http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/ <---DODGE bedside pockets, bed wood kits, bed parts, bed strip offerings (NON Dodge style) http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/index.aspx <---bed strip offerings (NON Dodge style), bed parts https://www.ebay.com/ <---roll the dice and see what might be out there https://p15-d24.com/classifieds/ <---our own location for buying/selling/searching for http://www.then-now-auto.com/ <---Fuel pump rebuild parts, etc https://www.steelerubber.com/ <---window seal parts https://brakeandequipment.com/ <---brake rebuild parts/shoe rebuild/lug studs https://www.cokertire.com/ <---vintage tires https://www.riwire.com/ <--- wire harnesses
  10. 1 point
    Andydodge

    Wheels

    I know that Wanted & For Sale posts must be placed in the Classified section but surely some small amount of leeway can be used when a 1st time poster, ie, he had asked a question regarding the wheels he has on his P15 and the way that the hubcaps are held on......it was his 1st post ........yep, he did indeed ask where he maybe able to get some wheels which is a "Wanted Add" but from my perspective he was a new member, was asking a genuine question within his post that could have been answered without going into whether it was a Want add and to be honest I thought it seemed a bit heavy handed........I am not trying to upset anyones apple cart and I DO know that being a moderator is and can be a thankless task but I thought I'd put my 2 cents worth in.......BTW Welcome Aboard Raaa62..............and regards from Oz, Andy Douglas
  11. 1 point
    49WINDS

    Looking for AMMCO 1750 or DIY tool

    Well I got my tool about a week ago and put it to use as quick as I could. The only slight problem I had with it was since the nut was thinner than the ones used to hold the drums on it in turn would wobble a little bit and not give an accurate reading. I was still able to make it work by trying to put constant pressure on it and adjust the shoes the best I could. I didn't use any feeler gauges as I know my shoes aren't perfectly arced to the drums, but just using this tool to adjust the major adjusters definitely made a difference. The pedal height is much better now and I can confidently go drive it around to bed the shoes in without fear of not being able to stop. As they've started to wear in a little more I can even get them to begin to lock the tires up on heavy stops so that's quite an improvement! The only (small) issue I have now is I think the drums may be warped as when I'm almost to a complete stop I can feel them grab kind of pulse-like. I don't feel a vibration in the pedal however, and it stops very straight as well so I'm not sure if I'll bother taking everything back apart to get the drums machined or not. I actually did take them to a shop before I did all this work and the employee who looked at them with me said they looked in such good shape that he wouldn't bother turning them if it were him. They did look near new as there were no ridges or scoring on any of them, so am I being too picky and still expecting them to behave as smoothly as 4 wheel discs on most modern vehicles?
  12. 1 point
    Thanks for the input. About as soon as I posted this I contacted the seller and they are sending me a replacement. With as much oil as I've already removed, I'm going to do everything I can to prevent it in the future.
  13. 1 point
    Well another National event has been cancelled due to C19. I just received an email stating that the 2020 National Desoto convention that was scheduled for July 29-August 2 and to be held in Brookfield, Wis. has been officially canceled If you know anyone that was planning to attend please let them know. They are planning to reschedule the 2021 convention to be held in Brookfield, Wis next year. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  14. 1 point
    Frank Elder

    1932 Ford Other Pickups

    There is no doubt in my mind with this man gets paid for every ad he posts on this site, just ban the little fecal dropping Already.
  15. 1 point
    Bdblazer1978

    Starting my B2C restoration.

    We're planning on keeping it stock except the brakes. Since this is my first restoration and first old truck, I'm with you and it's a lot safer to be able to reference the manual. The disk brakes were relatively easy. Because it's a 3/4 ton I've had to make a couple modifications. I'm having custom brake hoses made and I ordered wheel adaptors so I can run the original wheels. No idea on previous work to the engine. This is my first re-build so I'm reading a lot and asking the machine shop a ton of questions.
  16. 1 point
    Jeff Balazs

    Remote oil filter options ?

    Hi Gang; I have been running the remote oil filter that came with my truck for 5 years. It is the type that takes the Baldwin sock type element. It is hung on the side of the block and shares one mounting hole with the spark plug loom. I would like to upgrade to something easier to service preferably with a spin on canister and mount it on the fire wall. Anybody out there done something like this and have any feedback? Thanks in advance, Jeff
  17. 1 point
    keithb7

    Clutch and Transmission Project

    Does your tranny look like this one? Weight seen. Hope my wife doesn’t see the bathroom scale here.
  18. 1 point
    falconvan

    1950 Desoto Custom

    Got the trans back in last night and took it for a test drive today. After some adjustment on the clutch and back brakes it really goes down the road nice. The last thing I had to do was get the wipers going and I did that today. She’s ready for a bath, safety inspection, and lots of cruise time!
  19. 1 point
    JBNeal

    Remote oil filter options ?

    Not wanting to nitpick such a fine detailed piece of work here, but that crankcase filtered cap opening should be facing away from the radiator for the draft tube to work...if going with a PCV setup, the opening probably should be facing away from the radiator just to keep the bugs out of it
  20. 1 point
    I have had some bad champion plugs as well, i will buy anything but champion.
  21. 1 point
    greg g

    1941 Plymouth P12 TDC - completely lost

    Get AC or auto lite plugs, champs are junk lately. Also recheck your plug wires. You could have everything right but be off one tower on the dist cap. Don't ask me how I know. To
  22. 1 point
    tanda62

    Remote oil filter options ?

    I put a spin on filter. Used this mount https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-24755-Filter-Mounting/dp/B0014BIAG0 and this WIX filter https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Exactmatch.aspx?PartNo=51050 This is a by pass filter needed for these engines. I did have to make a mounting bracket as you can see in this picture. I am happy with this setup and is a lot less messy.
  23. 1 point
    keithb7

    We and the Windsor 2018

    First wedding for the Windsor today. My son and his new wife. I was chauffeur as I went to pick up the bride and her Dad before the ceremony. The 4 doors were perfect for this occasion. Was a great day. Big brownie points to the bride and groom for asking to have both of my old cars in their wedding.
  24. 1 point
    Young Ed

    Thermostat dilemma

    Yup I've got over 20k miles on mine. No issues.
  25. 1 point
    RobertKB

    Unrestored vs restored controversy

    I have both restored and unrestored cars. I think a lot depends on how unrestored you want it. I have fully restored two cars that were basket cases to begin with and maintained two originals. Pictured is a 1953 four-door Plymouth Belvedere (Canadian only model as the US did not have the four-door Belvedere). It is 95% original including the paint. I did replace a badly torn headliner and replaced the factory carpet. Other than that pretty original. It has had a ring job and valve lap about 30,000 miles ago. Present mileage is 101,000 and is driven often when the weather is nice. It has its share of gravel rash, dings in the trim, and the bumpers show some wear but overall pretty decent. They are only original once.
  26. 1 point
    ggdad1951

    Progress on Ernie

    oddly I don't have a pic of me driving....but my buddy got a spin....
  27. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Watch out for P15-D24 scams..

    A crisis seems to always bring out the bottom feeders so if you get any "special offers" in your email because you are a p15-d24 member, it is a scam. Don't open it and delete it immediately or let your anti virus software dispose the file. Any offers, promo and such will be announced here first and always come from the p15-d24.com domain in the the email address. Be safe in your health and online!
  28. 1 point
    MarkAubuchon

    Genrerator to Alternator

    Thanks this is perfect You guys ROCK! I guess that's ok for a 60 plus old guy to say.
  29. 1 point
    59bisquik

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    So I am trying to get ready for car show season. Slipping clutch and overdrive are on the top of the list. I went to Franklin Truck Parts and had my pressure plate rebuilt and got a new disc. Now to get it installed and move on the the overdrive.
  30. 1 point
    when I worked DoD Navy there was a saying they had...Navy has two classes of ships, submarines and targets....seriously though I have respect for many sailors as that is a very tough job daily and for the ship to survive in that environment the entire crew is constantly doing work to keep the rust/corrosion in check. This on top of their normal rate/job...and in knowing a large portion of the other guys job as well in case of a survival alarm. It is not a 9-5 job like I experienced in the Army and Air Force career. In comparison, they were underpaid more so than most other military counterpart. I salute you,....now get you butt back to work......😋
  31. 1 point
    Sniper

    Parking Light Lens 50 Plymouth #1340 270

    I spent 4 years at sea when I was in the Navy and I got used to being able to see the horizon. Being in a place with trees makes me feel crowded in. West Texas is about as wide open as the sea is without being on water.
  32. 1 point
    Sam Buchanan

    We and the Windsor 2018

    Well....notice how you placed the main mass of the car (the subject) in the lower right third of the image (Rule of Thirds)....then there are the converging diagonal lines of the fence and the tire tracks leading your eye to the car....then the little splash of color in the sky to balance the highlights in the car....then the trees which fill in the spaces in the sky and add counterpoint to the foreground....then the snow playing off the puffy clouds.....and the kicker is the overall cool color balance that brings out the texture of the snow and the color of the car. The only thing I would Photoshop out is the house in the background. That, my friend, is an excellent photograph! Here is a retouched version (lost a little resolution in the process of pulling the image off the web):
  33. 1 point
    Nick...........the engines been waiting for for over 70 years for someone to show it that they love it again..........please paint it, silver is original but honestly any colour so long as its painted with a colour and shown that its loved..........clear is for putting over the final colour coats on the body...........rust is for those that don't care..............andyd.
  34. 1 point
    Tony WestOZ

    Double Flare Tube Questions

    I went down the same road many years ago. I might not have done it had this type of repair not been part of my work. One of those tools that makes you wonder why you put up with the others for so long.
  35. 1 point
    chrysler1941

    Double Flare Tube Questions

    I never was happy with this type of flaring tool. Every other flaring messed up. Went and got a professional model. More expensive but worth it. Perfect flaring regardless being copper, zinc or steel.
  36. 1 point
    HotRodTractor

    Double Flare Tube Questions

    I upgraded to a hand held hydraulic flaring tool a few years ago. Quality flares across the board no matter what style with very minimal fuss compared to the tool being used in this thread. I regret not upgrading earlier. Just food for thought for those that have trouble or are needing to expand their flaring capabilities. The one I purchased is made by Mastercool.
  37. 1 point
    Los_Control

    Tim's multi-year engine odyssey

    My best use for wd40 is a cleaner. I love using it in my air tools. Add some wd40 and then run the tool and run the tool and blow out what you just added, do this a few times and it cleans out all the old gummed up oil in the tool over the years. Then add fresh clean air tool oil. The tool will have power just like it was brand new again. Same when people claim I sprayed wd40 on my old ford door hinges and works like new again, I swear by wd40! They just cleaned all the old grime off the hinges, now they are working like they should, now grease them. wd40 is a good cleaner in my opinion.
  38. 1 point
    BigDaddyO

    Remembering Bob Drown

    It's that time of year again. Time for 140th Grahamsville Little World’s Fair. Thinking of Bob and his Way Back machine and Cooper. This is a pretty good size fair and there are a lot events and attractions. Not many of these old timey fairs left around here anymore. It's definitely worth a visit if you're near by or looking for an adventure. The scenery is spectacular too. http://www.grahamsvillefair.com/
  39. 1 point
    Pushed it out in the sunshine....
  40. 1 point
    Old Flathead

    engine swap

    rhelm1953,, I'm the new owner of a 50 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2dr,,, I'll save your suggestions and work on the upgrades this winter! I'll bug you for more detail then 😉
  41. 1 point
    Andydodge

    engine swap

    Greg..........as Doc says the Shebby and Frod engines will fit however you'll probably get more brownie points from us Mopar Morons with a mopar engine in it...have you considered hopping up the side valve six?.......finned heads, exhaust headers, twin/triple carb intakes, cams and more are available.........this was the 230 cube engine I intended to stick in the 41 Plymouth I had, there are lots of things that you can do to the 6 and again all will gain brownie points from rodders and even restorers.....as for a V8 swap, as I mentioned the Poly is very wide and unless you really must have a Poly then the late A or LA series engines are fine and are actually about the same size as chec & frod engines..........but its your choice.........regards...andyd
  42. 1 point
    Andydodge

    engine swap

    Greg......I have had a 318 Poly & cast iron torqueflite in my 1940 Dodge since 1973..........I had to swap in a rack & pinion due to how I mounted the engine however any small block LA series 318/340/360 will fit however adapting to the original 3 speed would be a major effort and of doubtful use as the original gearbox would be a marginal proposition........essentially if you change the engine to a V8 you will probably have to mount the engine offset to the passenger side, engine mount kits should be available and I'd be using the later gearbox whether manual or auto that the engine comes with or fits........you'll have to swap in a later rear axle, connect up the rear axle parking brake and I'd strongly suggest disc brakes on the front...........a subframe swap is NOT the way to go.................have attached a pic of my cars engine bay, yep its RHD and the Poly V8 is MUCH wider than the late 318's so you will find its a better fit...........regards from Oz.............Andy Douglas
  43. 1 point
    DJ194950

    engine swap

    Ya a v-8 fits "fairly" easy. AS long a it is a Mopar LA type engine which were made is several Cubic inch models from 318-360. Other v-8 brands /models Do Not fit period! 😆 😉 DJ
  44. 1 point
    Tubman

    New Tachometer

    "Thomba48" - I have two conversion boxes left from my latest batch. You can contact me at "dennyodoms@gmail.com" To all you others that want to run the "Classic Tachometers (Sun, Stewart Warner, etc) that need controller boxes that are missing or in- operable, I have just finished an updated unit that will run these older "meter type" tachs on 6 volts, positive ground as well. This has been done before (as noted above), but for "$$$$$". My unit is projected to sell for less than $200. The price of the regular driver for "motor" tachs is still $120. Here is a link to a video of it running an a Merc flathead on my engine stand :
  45. 1 point
    JBNeal

    Photo Request---- '49 B1B

    I took some photos the other day of the linkage setup on the '48 with the Ball&Ball on the 218; the '49 1-ton with the Stromberg on the 230 was an almost identical setup (currently partially disassembled for short test runs), as well as the '51 1-ton with the Stromberg on the 230...the return spring is attached to the floorboard with a cotter pin as shown. The return spring has tension on it while at zero throttle. Also shown is how close the throttle linkage on the back of the bell housing gets to the bottom of the cab when the cab mounts are worn and the motor mounts are new. The only other engine setup that I have that is complete is on the '53 Spring Special, and it's a bit of a head scratcher. The engine appears to have been replaced at some point, so I'm not totally sold that the B4B setup is original. The return spring, which is smaller than the ones used on the B-1s & B-3s, is attached at the throttle linkage rod at the pivot linkage as there is no clip present like the ones shown in the manual. This spring is then hooked to the lip on the floor board, not to a cotter pin through the floor board. I could not locate a hole in the floor board for the cotter pin to fit, so I'm kinda wondering if this might have been a running change near the end of B-series production...
  46. 1 point
    grey beard

    pcv installation

    After much agony and experimentation, I was able to remedy a very rough light throttle no-load cruise surge and stagger problem with my own Pilothouse - after instaling the VPW pcv system - by driling out my main jet from the original 55 size down to a number 50 drill size. Now it cruises smooth as silk. Go figure . . . Guess the added air leak from the pcv leaned out the main metering circuit just a tad too much. Took me a long time to figure this out. Good Luck
  47. 1 point
    grey beard

    Valve Adjustment

    When you find good quality new valve cover gaskets, glue 'em onto your very clean valve covers with weatherstrip cement and let 'em dry with a heavy weight on top of 'em before you install them. Next time, they'll come right off with no sweat or scraping, and they won't need any schmutz on the engine side. Just install 'em dry against the clean block. Works for me . . .
  48. 1 point
    48Dodger

    Valve Adjustment

    Ok Merle, grabbed the video and its on the youtube site. Thanks! 48D http://www.youtube.com/user/194853DodgeTrucks
  49. 1 point
    All Y"all have to admit one thing, no matter HOW you freel ahout heat risers . . . . . . we did stir a mite of controversy there for a minute or three. LOL
  50. 1 point
    A properly functioning heat riser brings the engine up to temp in faster smoother manner enabling the fuel to atomize better and overall cold operation be on the decline saving you fuel in the long run. As for doing away with them in the 50's...you must have stayed in the outhouse while the plumbing was changed in your house as they were alive and well even into the 80's As for Ford the heat tube you see is for one reason..diverts gasses up to the bi-metal in the choke housing to accelerate the opening of the choke butterfly. A functioning heat riser diverts gases but if functional and free will still be blown open on acceleration...an engine under acceleration does not utilize the choke circuits and therefore that mixture is not in the mix so to speak. Can you live without it yes...is it worth fixing...your call...the real nix is the thing closing and getting stuck in that position..back pressure is now the problem, , stumbling on acceleration and increase in engine temp. Leaving it opens lengthens the time the engine takes to get to temp wasting fuel and sooting you plugs..
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