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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/19/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Again. Does anyone know who to contact to get my dad kicked off my topic. My dad told me how he messed up a simple oil change when he was my age. Didn't take the plastic protector from the inside of the filter opening before screwing it in place. So when he told my grandpa that the Marines had assigned him to mechanic school, my grandpa couldn't stop laughing for the rest of the evening.
  2. 2 points
    Give him some credit Pops.......most kids can't even change a u joint at his age and look what he has accomplished so far.
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point

    Lug centric or hub centric

    On my '48 with 6.50-16 tires, there's about 3" from tire sidewall to rear fender, and about 5" from sidewall to front fender...
  5. 1 point

    23" short block weight?

    750 lbs seems kinda high for a fully assembled 23" engine.. 565 lbs was stuck in my mind on a post as long time ago.
  6. 1 point

    Northeast member check in please

    Fulton New York, sounds like fun. I haven't taken the car over a 20 mile ride yet. May not make it with the car
  7. 1 point

    23" short block weight?

    A fully assembled flathead weighs in about 750#; the block alone weighs about 160#... lift with the legs
  8. 1 point

    Do your have reference material...

    that might help other users? Like third party manuals, assembly instructions, training information, parts cross reference information or advertising? Can you get it scanned so we can add to the the Downloads section so others will have access. Or send me copies and I will get them scanned. As we have moved to larger servers we now have quite a bit of storage available for this material to be online. If you have questions PM or email info@p15-d24.com.
  9. 1 point


  10. 1 point
    A friend/coworker of mine drove a Yugo in the late '80's that just wouldn't die. He couldn't make right-hand turns without first having a plan to hold the driver's door closed, windows only worked intermittently (not a good thing with no AC and being in south Texas) and he had to check the rearview mirror for parts every time he hit railroad tracks over 20 mph, but it just kept on running. He isn't a "car guy" by any stretch of the imagination, all that mattered to him was that it started and ran "OK", so he swore by it regardless of the ribbing he got from us. Only got rid of it because he got married, had a kid, and had to take his loved ones' well-being into consideration.
  11. 1 point

    Which rear end to swap in 1946 WD15

    I used a '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear under my 49 1/2 ton. 3.55 ratio and disk rear brakes. It fit nice but the rear bolt pattern was not 5 on 4.5. It was also a little bit narrower. An adapter fixed both width and bolt pattern.
  12. 1 point


    Most all of the above input is valid. That said, I have not scene a coil-over modification into the stock suspension geometry. If cost and the requirement or interest to explore a new solution are not a concern,.... go for it. That said,...that said, cutting a coil and relocating the spring pocket will get you a decent drop, at virtually no cost. And the original spring has already "settled". And yes, remounting the shocks are a given. The ride will be stiffened and drivebility improved 'tho understand that in extreme cases the suspension may bottom out which is the cost of having a car with a more contemporary appearance. I did all that but eventually ended up with a IFS clip because I can't resist messing with, exploring the options. Good luck. How 'bout some pics.
  13. 1 point

    engine rebuilt and back in car

    Cheaper than new axles though
  14. 1 point
    Todd B

    1951 B3F Build Thread

    When I did my semi I took them bushings out that look like brass. They’re technically a different metal but I don’t remember what. I took them to an old German machinist and he measured them and handed them back to me. Went to get them week later and I tried to install them. They appeared to be a little to large in diameter and I could not slide them in. I called the old machinist and told him I can’t get them to slide in. He very bluntly said put them in a freezer for an hour and slide them in and there’s no need for you to call me back. They slid right in. He even made grooves around the outside for the grease to roll through. It amazed the heck out of me.
  15. 1 point
    Picked up good driver’s side hood release cable. Should arrive next week! still trying to find a good shifter knob.
  16. 1 point

    In Memory of Don Coatney

    I'm a new member, but I learned quickly to look extra close when I got a note from Mr. Coatney or sourced one of his threads on an issue I was studying. Mrs Coatney and family. Thank you for sharing him with us.
  17. 1 point

    Bucketlist Car For Me Aquired

    Nice car!! My sister bought a '67 396 SS 4 speed convertible brand-spanking new. At the time I had a '65 Mustang with a 289 4-speed. She wanted to drive my Mustang one day and a couple of hours later called and asked "How in the heck do you get this car into reverse?" She didn't know that reverse was in a different location on a Ford top-loader than on a GM Muncie. 🙂 I have really fond memories of my dear departed sister and her Chevelle. Blasting along the freeway in New Orleans listening to Sgt. Pepper and flying through one-horse Mississippi towns after midnight at 100+ MPH, howling at the moon with my half-psychotic BIL behind the wheel.. There'd sometimes be a red light in the rear view but by then we were so far ahead they couldn't catch up! Those were the good old days!!
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point

    331 hemi heads

    Classic............where do I send the cheque.........lol.............thanks mate.......andyd
  20. 1 point
    One place I can recommend to you is the MyMopar site. This site has the Master Tech series of booklets and filmstrips, and is a great way to give you knowledge on late 40s mechanics. You can look up filmstrips by subject and by year. They are great and entertaining, and they will teach you more than just reading the service manual. http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=117
  21. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Headlight relay verification

    You stated it yourself. Since the brake light load isn't going through the ammeter it doesn't sense the current demand. However, the voltage regulator does see the voltage drop in the battery and increases output of the generator, thus showing a positive charge on your ammeter. If the brake light circuit was pulling through the ammeter it would read a negative number for the current draw of the lights, and the positive charge from the generator would offset that. The ammeter would then only show the difference.
  22. 1 point
    Frank Elder

    My new 54

    What an awesome color combo my favorite in the world is the Dodge three tone....yellow, black and white.
  23. 1 point

    License Plate Collecting

    Here are some of the plates I'd mentioned in the earlier post.
  24. 1 point

    Door limiter?

    additional information - Door Check Operation
  25. 1 point
    Todd B

    Coolant in the Oil

    I am a carpenter/cabinet maker with tons of experience and very little experience with mechanic work, so don’t take what I have to say to heart. But my experience with O’Reillys is that everything they have is crap kind of like Harbor Freight. It will work but if you need to depend on it on a daily basis it won’t stand up.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    This might or might not help.
  28. 1 point

    "Farmer fixes"

    I got a wild hair to kill 2 birds with one stone as I needed to visit the local locksmith, so I figured I'd get a key cut for the Spring Special since it didn't have one supplied by the previous owner. I carefully removed the ignition switch from the dash, and mr. butterfingers dropped it on the floorboards...that's when I noticed the cylinder had fallen out of the switch. Upon further examination, it appears that somebody took the pins out of the cylinder, and all ya needed to operate the switch was a used corn dog stick
  29. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    "Farmer fixes"

    I've heard others say that the home made bio-diesel will smell a bit like what it cooked.....I have no first hand on this.....but when out camping....perking coffee and fresh smell of bacon frying....two items that go together well...a morning worth getting up for...
  30. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    "Farmer fixes"

    my B3HH has a "pedal stiffener" AKA section of rebar welded to the brake pedal and along the bend for extra support
  31. 1 point

    "Farmer fixes"

    I took about ten feet of bailing wire out of my 3 on the tree shift linkage...
  32. 1 point

    Paint colors (engine & accessories) list

    This list may be available on this website somewhere, but thought I would post it again in case some had not seen it. The colors apply to a Plymouth P15, but should be similar on other brands and models. Additional Plymouth Paint Information (Dodge is believed to be similar) Silver Black (Semi Gloss) Gray Unpainted Block Oil Pan Head Water Pump Oil Pump Paint Details Front Engine Mounts Mainfolds Clutch Housing Transmission Oil Filler Tube Dipstick Tube Front Pulley Thermostat Housing Heater Bypass Hose Starter Generator Distributor Body Wire Loom Holder Coil Holder Coil Air Breather Air Cleaner Air Cleaner Steady Breather Brace Valve Chamber Vent Valve Chamber Tube Fuel Pump Shield Fan & Pully Oil Filter Filter Brace Steering Box Entire Frame Brake Master Cylinder Brake Lines Inner Front Fender Shields Radiator Side Shields Engine Dust Shields Hood Lock Plate Brace Horns And Bracket Bumper Supports Radiator Support Radiator Cross Bar Under Body Inside Floorpan Underside Of Hood Underside Of Trunk Lid Front Stone Guards Rear Stone Guards Front Fender Center Panel Grille Panel All Fenders (Inside) Inside Trunk Area Trunk Hinges Trunk Wheelwells (Trunk Side) Backside Of Wheels Fuel Pump Carb Fuel Lines Oil & Vacuum Lines Accelerator linkage Shift rods
  33. 1 point

    We and the Windsor 2018

    Took "The '53" all the way down the big hill today. To the valley bottom. Put on my new seat belt and put the tranny in low range. I went 15-20 Mph to the bottom. Low range holds 4,000 lbs back pretty good! Not unlike a master cylinder, I need to pump up my confidence in my recent brake overhaul job. Time for a visit to the exhaust Doctor. Tail pipe is rusted through in the low spots where water sits I guess. Tail pipe broke off at muffler too. All rusted up. Its all going. New exhaust pipe and muffler from header back. The mechanic is in his 50’s I estimate. I offered to show him how to do the Fluid Torque Drive boogie. He had never seen a F.T.D. Before. He was intrigued. Asked how long it was around for. I could not rightly answer. How long was it around? The ‘53 will spend the night the shop. I’ll pick it up tomorrow evening. One last fearful look as I walk away. Nobody else has turned a wrench on my car since I took possession.
  34. 1 point
    Todd B

    Is Craftsman comming back?

    I’m not so sure it’s greed of corporate America or the union scale that drives the cost of everything and send it overseas. My opinion union had its place years ago But GREED took over and now the end user pays for it. I just ordered a new dodge dually, $65,000. Ridiculously overpriced,
  35. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Is Craftsman comming back?

    and if you are a gorilla, I have had less trouble with any Craftsman return than that of any jobber sold tool system bar none.....at least the Craftsman store had it in stock and swapped on the spot compared to maybe a week or more for the other guys....oh, they come through, but on their schedule unfortunately. Like Young Ed, I get my tools on the 'proven side' of life, mainly at the pawn shops for pennies on the dollar and buying Craftsman, I still get that exchange warranty. There are no jobbers 40 miles out in the country for warranty exchange and 95% of the time, no store front for them either. Got to weight all in the buying/use process
  36. 1 point

    Is Craftsman comming back?

    One thing that really makes me mad is that just because it says it's made in the USA doesn't mean it is. I think like if you buy like for instance a socket set. As long as 30% of what you bought was made in the USA they can say it was. But this counts the box, packaging, and odd crap. So the actual tools or most of them wouldn't have to be. Or you have the secnerio where it's put together here with parts from other countries. Its all very frustrating to me.
  37. 1 point
    My father and I made the 4 hour trip to Venus and spent a few hours with George today. I'm getting closer to transforming my 1947 237 engine in to a dual carb 265. George was gracious enough to give us the "nickel" tour which not only included merchandise but some of his past and current projects. It was a day spent well, with one of the nicest gentleman there is. Rob
  38. 1 point
    Years ago, I picked up the smallest Craftsman siphon unit that was on sale to clean up some wheels and smaller parts. I used it inside a pole barn with a dirt floor, so I employed an old pickup bed liner as a trough of sorts to work in. Even using care as to keep the sand aimed on the parts, I ended up getting sand on everything inside that barn (dust too) as the sand would bounce off the work parts and randomly track in every direction. Even wearing a hood, welding gloves, long sleeves & ear plugs, I still got dust in my eyes & nose, judging by the sinus headaches & whutnot that would follow the next day after use. And I was ignorant of the moisture filter that was needed, so my nozzle clogged often from condensation from the compressor. After going through several bags of sand doing sample parts & one wheel, I calculated my operating costs and compared that to the cost of a media blasting company that is in town, and I opted to have them blast my other wheels. Those wheels were scaly rusty, so those guys were gonna do a much better job than my li'l setup could do. But for other parts, the siphon unit did well, and with practice and patience, I cleaned up some sheet metal without damage. I also taught myself how to setup everything so once the blaster was running, I was cleaning one part after another with minimal stops and eventually learned how to estimate how much sand was needed to clean certain size parts. As I gear up to do some more sand blasting, I plan on making a temporary shed of sorts inside that pole barn so as not to lose so much sand, making a 2x4 frame with poly plastic sheeting to knock the sand back down to the bed liner for re-use. I definitely would not trust a media blasting company to do any sheet metal as them folks just knock rust off and don't care about warping.
  39. 1 point

    Removing Timing Chain

    Both of those chains have clearly visible sag and should be replaced. Here is what a new one looks like:
  40. 1 point

    Removing Timing Chain

    Before your start set the engine up for TDC on #1. That way the timing marks on the gears will be correct. You will have to figure out a way to support the front of the engine. You need to pull the front motor mount to get the cover off. If your are going to replace the front plate you will need to pull the oil pan. (Bolt from the backside) (Don C or PA please confirm this) Replace both the gears and chain together. Unbolt the cam gear and you can pop it off with the screwdriver. New one goes on with a couple taps of rubber mallet. Crank gear will need a puller to remove. Slide new crank gear on without keyway, set, then drive in key. Job is way easier if you pull the radiator.
  41. 1 point

    Rust free 40 plymouth sedan

    More progress. My master cylinder install is now done, minus paint and plumbing. I'm pretty happy with the results. I ended up having to machine a new pin boss to weld to the brake pedal arm to get enough stroke for the ford master cylinder but the pedal ratio is still fine. More pics
  42. 1 point

    headlights showing almost no light

    Randy, thanks, I did some seaching on this site, and come up with some good posts. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=16390&highlight=headlights+relay http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=28661&highlight=headlights+relay Also the wiring diagram I was planning to use.
  43. 1 point
    B1B Keven

    Gauge faces.

    They're done. I also made and had printed some clock faces using the same font. Shoot me a PM if interested.
  44. 1 point

    Bonneville Day 3

    You need more stickers they make you go faster. Its funny I live in utah but I have never been to the salt flats
  45. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Bonneville Day 3

    Whoops! Sorry! I simply forgot until this thresd got me to thinking about everything I forgot. Now I cant think about anything except what I forgot:confused: I forgot what I was going to say but I am thinking about it.
  46. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Bonneville Day 3

    One thing I learned on the salt. Go hammer down off the line. Dont go to mile marker 1 or 2 and then go hammer down, best times are hammer down from the git go. The salt slippage gets worse at the higher speeds.
  47. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Bonneville Day 3

    That flat red paint is very restrictive. Need shiney paint for better aerodynamics and lots more speed. Wish I was there.....
  48. 1 point

    Bonneville Day 3

    I can't imagine what 1mph feels like! That is just so cool!
  49. 1 point
    Tony WestOZ

    Measurement of rear end on 1/2

    Ok a 1952 Pilothouse truck diff is 62 1/4" wide from where the wheel bolts too. It is an 81/4" diff. It looks the same as the 8 3/4" in this chart. This is an 8 1/4" diff. The easyest way to tell the difference between 8 1//4" and 8 3/4" is to count the nuts (bolts, studs whatever) that hold the pumpkin ( carrier whatever) in. 8 1/4 have 11 nuts, 8 3/4 have 10. The other way to tell is the two top nuts are closer together on an 8 3/4 than they are on an 8 1/4. Taperd axles (where the drum goes on) were used on 8 3/4 diffs from 57 to 64. Flanged axles started in 65. There are also 3 pinion sizes from 57 to 72 but thats an other story. Sorry for pinching the pics from another poster but they are better than the ones I have. Forgot, there were some 8 3/4 that had an 4" pcd instead of the usual 4 1/2" pcd. They are rare but it pays to check.
  50. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Measurement of rear end on 1/2

    I tried to find some pictures of 8 3/4 axles for comparison, but this is all I could find. Here are some pics of an original axle in my 3/4 ton truck. (1/2 ton axles are the same) Not an 8 3/4" Axle. A dead give away between the two, besides their size, would be the wheel hub. An 8 3/4 would have a flanged axle shaft which would contain the wheel studs. The original axle would have a tapered axle to which the brake drum fits and is held on with a castle nut. Merle
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