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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/24/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Did the deal on this one today. 1938 P6. Great known history. Solid car. Original interior. D24 engine installed but comes with original P6 engine needing rebuild. Lots of spare parts! Good runner. Test drove it. Looking forward to getting into this car. No plans other than make it reliable, road worthy and safe. Picked up in Victoria BC Canada. I will trailer it home next Saturday.
  2. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    new way to use old stuff...

    this turned out pretty good....
  3. 2 points
    Don Coatney

    Engine builders

    As I understand it the only reasons the factory selected the 7:00 position was to make life easier for the mechanics in the field to have common ground to start with when doing tuneups. And as mentioned above to prevent the vacuum advance from making contact with the engine block. Military distributors took it a step further. The "tang" at the bottom of the distributor shaft that is flat on both sides of civilian distributors was modified adding a half moon on one side so the distributor could only be installed one way not two ways. They did this so when you are in a gun fight with bullets wizzing over your head and the engine craps out you can make hasty repairs in the dark and get out of Dodge.
  4. 1 point
    13th ANNUAL CLEMENTS TAILGATE BBQ APRIL 4TH 2020 SATURDAY 9AM TIL WHENEVER EARLY TOW-IN BEGINS NOW AND LATE TOW-OUT ENDED YESTERDAY Show up Thursday or Friday and Camp-Out til Sunday or Monday, always need the Help! "Lucky 13teen" Its the best day ever! Old trucks and old friends! The car guys are part of the whole deal too, but man, I love the trucks! Its the place where the largest number of Dodge Pilot-House Era Trucks meet in the whole WORLD !!! (at least no one's proven otherwise ..lol) The people I've met over the last 12 BBQ's has made my life so much better. This time of year is so awesome because finishing an old truck actually has meaning to the crowd you'll see here! Fenders and bumpers to hang on, hoods to lift, parts to swap, and stories to tell! I look forward to it all. Every year is special with returning long distant travelers and new ones that are finally able to make the trip! I always look forward to meeting you all! If you have an old frail beater truck that is weak on the road.....trailer it here early! I'll keep it here on the ranch til show day and you can pick it up when you can.....save your energy for the best weekend ever! ITS A BBQ, NOT A FOO FOO CAR SHOW!! *what is a "foo foo"?* If you have a "Real Bitchin" Shoebox, Shovelhead, Stovebolt, A-Bomb, Backhalf, Barn Find, Basket Case, Chopped Up, Belly Pan, Boat Tail, Nailhead, Pancaked, Resto Rod, ........well, Bring-It-On-Down, me and my friends got a few Dodge Trucks for you'all to see!!! I love Hot Rods and Muscle Cars too.....it is an awesome time to show off the hard work we all put into these old rigs and no need to fuss, Its all Good! ...no mini coopers please...., yea, go ahead and bring one, they're kinda cool. It really is my favorite time of the year. Happy 13teen guys. "The car crowd is growing and more than welcome to come. I could easily call it "The Tailgate/Trunk BBQ"!" "I can't tell you how much I look forward to this every year, its a blast and for some, lasts a few days. Campers show up on Thursday or Friday and leave on a Sunday morning.....all enjoying late night chat sessions around the fire pit." "I hope new and old members alike are inspired to make the trip and maybe even drive their trucks the distance....you know we have your back! " "So many good stories around the fire pit the nights before and after the event. I can't tell how cool it is to have forum members stay several days and just relax....." "Looking forward to a great party! Now build it, and bring it!!!" "It was around 2007 when Bob Koch, Jim Shepard, and myself (Tim Estrada), went to Reg Evans' place to check out his "yard". While we were eating hotdogs, drinking cold beverages, solving international and regional issues....we thought "lets have a BBQ". "Get the wheels on, and the tanks full....its time to finish up and git to the Q! It ain't no beauty pageant of trailer queens, its a truck show...so flex your rust as well as your shine!" Tim aka 48Dodger
  5. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Do your have reference material...

    that might help other users? Like third party manuals, assembly instructions, training information, parts cross reference information or advertising? Can you get it scanned so we can add to the the Downloads section so others will have access. Or send me copies and I will get them scanned. As we have moved to larger servers we now have quite a bit of storage available for this material to be online. If you have questions PM or email info@p15-d24.com.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Every summer, Island Falls, ME (pop. @ 800) hosts a "Summerfest", wherein a couple of local businesses host a cruise-in. Ostensibly for our car club, but all are welcome. They have a BBQ, music, and general good time to kick off the town's Summerfest weekend, which is the last weekend in July. A pretty good to-do for such a small town. Club members staging in Houlton for the 30-mile trip to Island Falls. The "hard luck" trophy went to the owner of that Galaxie convertible, he lost a hubcap on the way down that we couldn't find. A first for our Dodge - "zipping" down an Interstate on its own (...any Interstate). I-95, and yes, for those who have ever been on I-95, this road with one car between me and the horizon is the same I-95 with almost 24/7 bumper-to-bumper traffic just about any other place on the eastern seaboard. The club has the slowest car lead on cruises, turned out to be us this trip, but despite leaking quite a bit of oil, the ol' girl hummed along pretty good. A couple general views of the cars in attendance. 25 in all, which I think is pretty good for such a small venue. Just a few Mopar products, our Dodge, a '36 Dodge sedan, and the Polara above. That '46 Dodge truck is on a GM 3/4 ton frame & drive train, it's the guy's daily driver/work truck. And there was a '32 Plymouth coupe hot-rod with a Chevrolet engine.
  8. 1 point
    40plyrod

    from the driver's seat and other images

    One more of mrwstory's car.
  9. 1 point
    40plyrod

    from the driver's seat and other images

    And one out the back.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Happy 4th, y'all!
  12. 1 point
    I really do have more friends than the blokes shown in these pics. Just that they are always up for a morning breakfast and cruise. And,....I'm always struck with the pleasure of viewing the world framed, or better yet focused through the aperture of my car's windshield.
  13. 1 point
    When the driver wants to start the engine, he pushed the starter foot rod. Ok I got that. Neat...This evening I go in there to pull the starter. I see that the gas pedal linkage is also automatically activated by the foot starter rod! Cool! More neat Mopar engineering I learned about today. I was a little stumped wondering how a person could crank the engine while working the throttle. Ya’ll knew this already probably. The foot starter rod is right above the gas pedal. Pretty awkward to try and work both at the same time. Now I know, there’s no need! 81 years old, this car. Its all new to me... Very cool stuff.
  14. 1 point
    Part of the struggle on a purchase decision was giving up garage space. Today I am quite pleased. I can work with this. The Plymouth is considerably smaller than my Windsor. Those wheel dollies are so handy. Pushing it around, the Plymouth is also much easier as it weighs considerably less too. Today I am satisfied and relieved that I can work with with the garage space I have. All year round I can work on it. The motorcycle seen in the pic is on its way to a new owner. Out of the way soon. Good days ahead...
  15. 1 point
    2:30 am. Just outside my home town. Hiway closure. Serious accident. So we wait. Hopefully no major injuries. Pretty uneventful drive home. The tow truck performed exceptionally well. 15.8 mpg while towing. I’m happy with that. Several new people were met today as they continue to approach. Asking questions. What is it? What year is it? Etc. I look forward to the future with this car.
  16. 1 point
    Anyone know anything about this aftermarket bolt-in Firestone AM radio? I have never seen one before.
  17. 1 point
    Well we made it to pick up point. The rain let up. We got it running and up on the trailer...Almost. Died on the ramp with front wheels on the trailer. We were well equipped with a 12V winch mounted to the front. So we yanked it up and strapped it down. This is my first vintage car rescue with my Ram truck. I’m impressed. The Cummins gets the job done quite well. Waiting now at the ferry to get back to continental North America. We just may get back to Kamloops by mid-nite pacific time. So far so good!
  18. 1 point
    Very nice. There was a 35 Plymouth 5 window coupe at the car show that I went to today. Had a 350 in it though. too bad.
  19. 1 point
    The Oil Soup

    Is it a radiator, or a wall hanger?

    A new Champion radiator about $225 on theBay.
  20. 1 point
    So the engine is stuck... won't turn over...you have tried all the magic lubes... Then it starts to turn over... yea!!!!! Now the rings are scraping the rust off the cylinder walls and the ring are stuck deep in the ring land grooves and are not loose and free to follow the cylinder taper... So the rings are not scraping oil or holding compression? Ya gotta take the engine apart and make it right. JMO.
  21. 1 point
    Jocko_51_B3B

    Thermostat Housing Problem

    I found what I needed. DCM has thermostat housings with the bent tube, but they haven't yet listed it on the DCM website. According to DCM the housing is an exact copy of the original. It seems to me the angle of the tube should bend over a little bit more to put it perfectly in line with the radiator inlet, but if that's how they were made, then that's how they were made. The angle was sufficient to be able to install a straight solid hose without kinking the hose.
  22. 1 point
    Matt Wilson

    Tow In

    Personally, I would not re-use a bent tie rod, even if it has been straightened, heat treated, etc. It may have tiny cracks that you cannot see/detect, which can eventually result in complete breakage of the rod and loss of control of your steering. The chances of a crack forming are greater the more times the tie rod gets bent and straightened. I also would not try heating and quenching it. If it's an alloy that can be hardened much at all, then heat treating it can make it too hard and less ductile than it should be, and the next time you hit an immovable object hard, such as a curb, the rod is more likely to develop cracks, and being a less ductile material, these cracks will also be more likely to grow. I would not try any kind of heat treating. Unless you know what you are doing, this can do very undesirable things to the metal. Different alloys respond differently to heat treating and require different temperatures, different quenching media (water, oil, air, other), different tempering temperatures after quenching, etc. I believe I read that auto manufacturers make tie rods from relatively ductile material so that if you have an accident or a hard impact with an immovable object, the rod will not break at that instant; rather, it will bend, but remain intact to afford some level of steering control until you can bring the car to a stop.
  23. 1 point
    Did a little road trip with a coupla buds last weekend.
  24. 1 point
    Redoing someone else's work is more expensive than starting from "scratch" yourself...... If its not running, looks cobbled together and has (what I call ) untested upgrades.... Look into starting from scratch yourself and see where the cost falls. Dakota frame engine A non running 51-53 truck with 90% of parts The ability to bring it together ( tools, funds or both) It'll be a matter of which truck wins....a truck with a multitude of problems and unknowns... Or carefully bringing together a proven design that you would happy to drive your family around in. A truck like this one might require a multiple of shake downs, tear downs and....(hoping against) breakdowns. This truck (based on parts alone) might be worth 4500, if you can put it through the paces and prove its safe for family. Otherwise.....its an expensive parts truck. 48D
  25. 1 point
    Yes, the upper port is in the oil galley. You'll see a couple other plugs along that ridge in the block. One is behind the starter and one just ahead of the distributor that may be feeding your oil pressure gauge. There may also be one behind the generator. the lower plug is the return to sump. This flows through the oil pressure regulator. If the oil pressure is low, and the valve is closed, the return to sump is also closed so that oil pressure isn't lost through the filter system.
  26. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Sticking valve in a rebuilt motor

    The exhaust guide counterbore is up to protect the valve stem from carbon build up and also to help prevent exhaust valves from sticking.
  27. 1 point
    kencombs

    Sticking valve in a rebuilt motor

    Agree with all the other posts. The exh guides have a recess in top of the guide. The main purpose of that recess is to retain what little oil splashed into the valve area to lube the exhaust. Intakes have that recess down to prevent that very thing. I think you can reach the valve stem with an oil squirt from an aerosol can with the little tube extension. With the spark plug removed and the exh valve open. Probably not important what type of oil you use, just soak it well before storage. And, add one of the magic gas additives to aid valve lube to the gas. Marvel Mystery oil is one, or ATF works for me. That should help until you get enough miles on it to free things up.
  28. 1 point
    JBNeal

    "Farmer fixes"

    I got a wild hair to kill 2 birds with one stone as I needed to visit the local locksmith, so I figured I'd get a key cut for the Spring Special since it didn't have one supplied by the previous owner. I carefully removed the ignition switch from the dash, and mr. butterfingers dropped it on the floorboards...that's when I noticed the cylinder had fallen out of the switch. Upon further examination, it appears that somebody took the pins out of the cylinder, and all ya needed to operate the switch was a used corn dog stick
  29. 1 point
    Radarsonwheels

    "Farmer fixes"

    you did it wrong. campbells soup cans are the professional way to do it. if you use hormel chili the red cap from the can can also be used as a tail light lense edit: I added a pic of my ramcharger exhaust- this can was goya black beans and lasted a few months before I swapped to headers and new duals! also please note my pebble beach level of fit and finish- the clamps are clocked the same as are the slots in the screws. Professional.
  30. 1 point
    48Dodger

    Thermostat housing

    I did a few videos that might help. This one is about the Water Distribution Tube. This one is about several topics, but covers The bypass. 48D
  31. 1 point
    Why don't one of you guys volunteer to be a club moderator? We also have members in NZ.
  32. 1 point
    R&D Dodge

    Valve guides, Spitfire

    Hello there.. To anyone interested my progress is a bit slow but moving forward. Valves out, one keeper dropped into oil pan, excited to remove pan in search of it being I will be able to scope out the lower end. Springs are a bit difficult to remove with guides in, I have pulled one, wondering if there is a simple procedure I am overlooking in removing. Getting ready to attempt to push guides out but apprehensive. The two center lower exhaust manifold bolts broke, and as luck would have it I then broke an easy out off in the first one I attempted to extract. Tried welding washer, then nut, etc. to no avail even after pre heating stud but couldn't get enough penetration into stud which nuts just kept breaking off. Lack of welding skills most probable issue... I was very very lucky I got the hole on center and drilled all the way through the stud. This was a trick I learned as a kid working on big trucks. I was able to take an air chisel and drive the broken portion of the easy-out through the stud then start over.. The bad is, the piece is still in the water jacket but I will try to recover it. De mounted 3 tires and re-mounted with decent used ones we picked up which had nice new tubes and flaps. Have four total, they were off an industrial air compressor with most of life being stationary where tires have started to dry rot and have the typical Michelin sidewall cracking, but flaps and tubes like new. Fun thing was I was able to have my oldest son at 16 change two of them after I showed him how. After 37 years I can still knock one apart in record time and fortunate enough to have my Dad's tire hammer and pry bars. If anyone wants a lesson I have one more to change... Thanks much to the several gentlemen who reached out in messages with tips and advice on the valve project. I have spent quite a bit of time researching the site and snooping around, appreciate the plethora of shared knowledge. So sorry to anyone currently affected by the many disasters currently going on. Very Truly, Doug.
  33. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Water pump replace or repack

    #42554 is the only new replacement W/pump that's commonly available for the 40's on up 6 cylinder 218-265 MoPar cars..
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Allmyjunk

    SUCESSFUL REAR AXLE SWAPS.

    The dana 35 out of a cherokee fit right in the drive shaft is kinda pricey though, it will be done Friday but regular u-joints and 355 gears should be a huge benefit for daily driveing
  36. 1 point
    55 Fargo

    Radiator Springs A Huge Leak

    After over 3 months, have sourced a dcent used 3 row OEM stock rad for my Canadian built Fargo truck. I will clean i up, and install, it does not leak, core is in reral decent shape. This cost juist over $100 USD....
  37. 1 point
    Bobacuda

    Radiator Springs A Huge Leak

    Why be afraid of setting a deadline to finish your project? Heck, I like deadlines so much on my truck I've blown by 4 deadlines and am currently closing in on my 5th... All kidding aside, every deadline I have set for my truck has generated derisive laughter from my family (not to mention the engine or body men). My wife keeps reminding me that its my hobby, not my job. The "getting there" should be as interesting as "being there."
  38. 1 point
    pflaming

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    " . . . That's an upper line Savoy too!" How can you tell from the pictures that it is an upper line? I'm beginning to like this car more than the convertible. I bought this so quickly I didn't consult my wife. SO. . . gonna have to find some 'off campus' storage for a while or she may follow through on her threat to rent out my bedroom! Oh, the perils of the hobby. Oh yes, HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOUNG ED!
  39. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Removing Timing Chain

    Before your start set the engine up for TDC on #1. That way the timing marks on the gears will be correct. You will have to figure out a way to support the front of the engine. You need to pull the front motor mount to get the cover off. If your are going to replace the front plate you will need to pull the oil pan. (Bolt from the backside) (Don C or PA please confirm this) Replace both the gears and chain together. Unbolt the cam gear and you can pop it off with the screwdriver. New one goes on with a couple taps of rubber mallet. Crank gear will need a puller to remove. Slide new crank gear on without keyway, set, then drive in key. Job is way easier if you pull the radiator.
  40. 1 point
    Reg Evans

    Resurfacing Cylinder Head

    Here's a milling chart to give you an idea of how much milling required to reach a certain compression ratio.
  41. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    leaks common on rebuilds?

    They all will leak just a small leak-maybe a drip after parking for several hours. The engine should not burn or use any (1 Quart) oil on a good rebuild even after 2500 miles or more. Thats my experience on all mine. But I don't think you can make a flathead leak free like any of the current GM's/Fords or Hondas ect. that are dry as a bone after 100,000 miles and perfectly leak free. Modern technology-quite amazing! Bob
  42. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    leaks common on rebuilds?

    I don't think you will ever see a perfect leak free MoPar flathead six- an eight maybe. I've never seen one!
  43. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Bonneville Day 3

    Whoops! Sorry! I simply forgot until this thresd got me to thinking about everything I forgot. Now I cant think about anything except what I forgot:confused: I forgot what I was going to say but I am thinking about it.
  44. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Bonneville Day 3

    One thing I learned on the salt. Go hammer down off the line. Dont go to mile marker 1 or 2 and then go hammer down, best times are hammer down from the git go. The salt slippage gets worse at the higher speeds.
  45. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Bonneville Day 3

    That flat red paint is very restrictive. Need shiney paint for better aerodynamics and lots more speed. Wish I was there.....
  46. 1 point
    ggdad1951

    Bonneville Day 3

    I can't imagine what 1mph feels like! That is just so cool!
  47. 1 point
    Allen I.

    Bonneville Day 3

    Three things: 1. This is one of the coolest things I have seen. I am already looking forward to the modifications from what you learned and future results. 2. I think painting the bumper mounts a different color will net you a couple MPHs 3. I showed my wife your posts and she immediately asked "Why?" I responded "Why not?" We stared at each other for a couple seconds before she just walked away. Don't know if that is good or bad but I have witnessed one of our dogs and our cat do the same thing. (The staring and walking away, not asking each other questions).
  48. 1 point
    Tony WestOZ

    Measurement of rear end on 1/2

    Ok a 1952 Pilothouse truck diff is 62 1/4" wide from where the wheel bolts too. It is an 81/4" diff. It looks the same as the 8 3/4" in this chart. This is an 8 1/4" diff. The easyest way to tell the difference between 8 1//4" and 8 3/4" is to count the nuts (bolts, studs whatever) that hold the pumpkin ( carrier whatever) in. 8 1/4 have 11 nuts, 8 3/4 have 10. The other way to tell is the two top nuts are closer together on an 8 3/4 than they are on an 8 1/4. Taperd axles (where the drum goes on) were used on 8 3/4 diffs from 57 to 64. Flanged axles started in 65. There are also 3 pinion sizes from 57 to 72 but thats an other story. Sorry for pinching the pics from another poster but they are better than the ones I have. Forgot, there were some 8 3/4 that had an 4" pcd instead of the usual 4 1/2" pcd. They are rare but it pays to check.
  49. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Measurement of rear end on 1/2

    I tried to find some pictures of 8 3/4 axles for comparison, but this is all I could find. Here are some pics of an original axle in my 3/4 ton truck. (1/2 ton axles are the same) Not an 8 3/4" Axle. A dead give away between the two, besides their size, would be the wheel hub. An 8 3/4 would have a flanged axle shaft which would contain the wheel studs. The original axle would have a tapered axle to which the brake drum fits and is held on with a castle nut. Merle
  50. 1 point
    James_Douglas

    Fluid Drive Fluid

    Jon, Working and transferring maximum torque are two different things. What I have tried to do is to ignore all the common myths and have run down original technical data. Other oils may work, but how would anyone know how well unless one changed the oils and ran some real well done field tests. Send me an email and I will send you a copy of my research. The NAPA AW 32 oil should work fine. The R&O oil is of lessor quality and has an inferior VI. So when it gets hot, say in heavy stop and go traffic it will not transmit as much power. I am looking at some ISO 22 hydraulic oils with a very high VI. Once I run it for a month, I can comment directly. A ISO 22 oil is about 102 in the Sybolt viscosity SSU. A ISO 32 oil is about 149 in the Sybolt viscosity SSU. The documents I have suggest a oil between 100 and 150 SSU for fluid couplings. The sample of original MOPAR fluid I sent out came back at SAE 10 weight. SAE 10 is about 125 SSU. Since it is fluid velocity that makes the power transfer and not the "thickness" of the fluid the lighter fluid will transfer more power. Best, James
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