Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Roger the Dodger

    Aussie DeSoto

    G'day All, This is my 1955 DeSoto Diplomat Regent. I bought it recently and got a Roadworthy Certificate yesterday morning, and got Club Permit plates in the afternoon. Previous owners have thrown a lot of money at it and all I had to do was replace a defective hydraulic brake light switch. It is a SP25-3 with a 250.6 cu in motor (3 7/16 x 4 1/2) and 3 speed with O/drive. The carby is off a Falcon with aftermarket air cleaner. Electric fuel pump next to tank. It has been repainted at some time and the engine fully recoed. Recently the head has been shaved .050". Now to drive the wheels off it.
  2. 2 points
    tjlarson88

    First Plymouth 1949 Special Deluxe

    Had a nice hour long drive around central MN this evening. Haven’t been able to take Myrtle out since Sunday with all the rain! Ran great and got a couple of waves. I also upgraded the door hardware.
  3. 2 points
    JSabah

    woodgraining

    My dash had rust spots and large scratches. I sanded it down to bare metal, primer and gave it a base beige spray then after doing some research on airbrush techniques, gave it a try .... after all, if I messed up I could always sand it down and start over. Sanding and priming took a day. Base color took a day. Practice with the airbrush on those days (on scrap) and while drying. Airbrush graining took a day and then clear coat (2k). Did the dash and the windshield interior frame at the same time for color/technique consistency. Here are some pics of the dash I did with an older spare I had. If you would like a write up on the colors and technique, let me know and I’ll document it. I also wanted a little redder and brighter finish.
  4. 1 point
    13th ANNUAL CLEMENTS TAILGATE BBQ APRIL 4TH 2020 SATURDAY 9AM TIL WHENEVER EARLY TOW-IN BEGINS NOW AND LATE TOW-OUT ENDED YESTERDAY Show up Thursday or Friday and Camp-Out til Sunday or Monday, always need the Help! "Lucky 13teen" Its the best day ever! Old trucks and old friends! The car guys are part of the whole deal too, but man, I love the trucks! Its the place where the largest number of Dodge Pilot-House Era Trucks meet in the whole WORLD !!! (at least no one's proven otherwise ..lol) The people I've met over the last 12 BBQ's has made my life so much better. This time of year is so awesome because finishing an old truck actually has meaning to the crowd you'll see here! Fenders and bumpers to hang on, hoods to lift, parts to swap, and stories to tell! I look forward to it all. Every year is special with returning long distant travelers and new ones that are finally able to make the trip! I always look forward to meeting you all! If you have an old frail beater truck that is weak on the road.....trailer it here early! I'll keep it here on the ranch til show day and you can pick it up when you can.....save your energy for the best weekend ever! ITS A BBQ, NOT A FOO FOO CAR SHOW!! *what is a "foo foo"?* If you have a "Real Bitchin" Shoebox, Shovelhead, Stovebolt, A-Bomb, Backhalf, Barn Find, Basket Case, Chopped Up, Belly Pan, Boat Tail, Nailhead, Pancaked, Resto Rod, ........well, Bring-It-On-Down, me and my friends got a few Dodge Trucks for you'all to see!!! I love Hot Rods and Muscle Cars too.....it is an awesome time to show off the hard work we all put into these old rigs and no need to fuss, Its all Good! ...no mini coopers please...., yea, go ahead and bring one, they're kinda cool. It really is my favorite time of the year. Happy 13teen guys. "The car crowd is growing and more than welcome to come. I could easily call it "The Tailgate/Trunk BBQ"!" "I can't tell you how much I look forward to this every year, its a blast and for some, lasts a few days. Campers show up on Thursday or Friday and leave on a Sunday morning.....all enjoying late night chat sessions around the fire pit." "I hope new and old members alike are inspired to make the trip and maybe even drive their trucks the distance....you know we have your back! " "So many good stories around the fire pit the nights before and after the event. I can't tell how cool it is to have forum members stay several days and just relax....." "Looking forward to a great party! Now build it, and bring it!!!" "It was around 2007 when Bob Koch, Jim Shepard, and myself (Tim Estrada), went to Reg Evans' place to check out his "yard". While we were eating hotdogs, drinking cold beverages, solving international and regional issues....we thought "lets have a BBQ". "Get the wheels on, and the tanks full....its time to finish up and git to the Q! It ain't no beauty pageant of trailer queens, its a truck show...so flex your rust as well as your shine!" Tim aka 48Dodger
  5. 1 point
    westaus29

    1938 Aussie 7 Passenger Plymouth

    I have visited this site a few times in the past but recently started again and have been impressed with the activity, the assistance offered and the relevance to my interests. I currently have a 1929 Plymouth tourer with body by Holden Australia restored on club licence since 1999, a 1955 Plymouth Belvedere Suburban RHD built in Detroit with 259 V8 and 2 speed auto also on club licence, and a 1938 7 passenger Plymouth with Aussie Richards body, in a million pieces. This my first attempt at a post with pics so hope it works. I purchased the '38 running and licensed in Feb 1981 with the plan of having a car I could use for club events while I slowly rebuilt my 1929 Plymouth from a wreck. It was painted black, the engine barely ran and the leather upholstery was falling apart, but we drove it onto the trailer under its own steam. I cant find any pictures of it as bought but I must have been dazzled by the fact it was a 7 passenger and had all its chrome and fittings. There was no water in the radiator and It turned out the engine had a hole in the head above No 1 cylinder, every pot had broken rings, and water had corroded the bearings, crank and camshaft. The bottom of each centre door post was rusted out, and there was rust in the boot (trunk) area. By July 1982 I had it on the road with new paint (Ford Neptune Blue), new tyres and a temporary engine out of a 1936 Dodge utility (pickup) that we found abandoned up in the hills, and sheets tacked over rebuilt seat frames. My daughter in the pic below is now 41! In the next couple of years I fixed oil leaks, replaced spring bushings, brakes and wheel bearings and changed the diff from original 7 passenger 4.3 to standard 4.1 ratio as we tend to travel longish distances. By 1984 I was ready to replace the interior with upholstery in original blue leather. When I stripped the hood lining I discovered I had serious rust issues under the lead used in large quantities on the roof, which was fabricated from a standard roof cut in half with a central insert about 18 inches wide. The repairs were completed by Nov 1985 and the car was back on the road, however the upholstery guy was no longer available. In 1988 we had a surprise addition to the family, a baby girl after 17 year drought! The upholstery money went on adding a bedroom. In the meantime the car was used as a daily driver by my wife on the school run - rule was "no running in the car"! By 1995 the brake lines had rusted thru, the radiator had collapsed for the second time, the exhaust was shot, valves keep sticking and to cap it off I backed it into our Falcon wagon and badly dented the boot. I deregistered it in disgust as by that time I was making progress on the 29. Fast forward to 2012 and we have changed address, I now have 1/2 acre and a 5 bay shed. However to fit the 7 passenger in it I had to remove the front clip. The car is now a mobile storage unit for surfboards, wetsuits and a couple of broken chairs. But it still runs! I plan to post an outline of the rebuild process which started in 2012, but here is a recent pic of the body on a home made rotisserie - stripping back roof to bare metal after a VERY bad sand blast and prime job. Jim
  6. 1 point
    P15-D24

    COLEMAN2a4x4.jpg

    Found these while going through some old files! Big truck 4x4 conversion kits!
  7. 1 point
    If only that red head would leave me alone
  8. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Kustom grilles for 51 dodge

    none that are commercially available as direct bolt in that I am aware of....customizers are pretty much on their own for taking something they like from another donor and modifying
  9. 1 point
    Roger the Dodger

    Aussie DeSoto

    Andy, it is a single barrel carby, but I do have a XF Weber 2 barrel with electric choke on the shelf. The one on Ebay was a Dodge similar colour. He has listed it twice and both times has ended the auction early. He wouldn't let me see it as he was sick of the attention it drew. Close to me as well. I bought the DeSoto from Ballarat, and drove it 200km home. Ran great.
  10. 1 point
    Reg Evans

    1958 Sweptside question

    Welcome to the forum ! I owned a 58 Dodge Sweptside several years ago. Mine had the big back window, a push button auto, and a 315 V8 Poly engine and the rare Model 700 ceiling mounted radio. I'm still kicking myself for selling it. NOTE: the grill was from a 59. Hows about posting some photos of yours here .
  11. 1 point
    jpwuertz

    1952 B3B Interior

    Here is the interior of my B3B with the Quiet ride kit installed. I had to paint it before installation. I am very satisfied with the way it looks.
  12. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    get out there and mingle

    just updating some recent visits I was able to make this year... (not including the BBQ in Clements) new member "Tom San" and myself (local to me new member) made it to BTT50's this year (L to R) Myself, GGdad, Merle, "Young Ed" and Joe and swung by on the way home and met "9' box" what a great year!
  13. 1 point
    Jeff Balazs

    Vent windows

    Well there are a few "jobs" on these old trucks that should earn us a "merit badge" when successfully completed. Removing a badly corroded WDT is one and replacing the corner window gaskets by yourself is another. You haven't lived until you've tackled these. Jeff
  14. 1 point
    goingbush

    New '49 Dodge on the block.

    Anxious wait while our new Dodge delivery is completed. Bought sight unseen from a FaceBook Marketplace sale notice , Travelled 1700km via Webtow, http://www.webtow.com.au Can't be happier, non runner but way better than expected. Original books and paperwork included , receipts showing 4 previous owners. Toyed with the idea of converting it to EV , but its too damn good, going to bring back to new .
  15. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Got a new toy

    I'd refer to that as being a bit lower and at the rear of your body.....😎
  16. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    difference is 1/4 ton (LOL, just kidding!) suspension and wheel base is the biggies. yes, my B4D (one ton) sheet metal is the same as my B3B (1/2 ton) this is a great "resource" http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/pilothouse.htm if you haven't seen it yet
  17. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    hey welcome Michael, if your doing a "restoration" be careful when you get to removing the emblems.... especially that dash "dodge" script! oh and please don't put the front clip "dodge" script from the 52 back on the 53..... that's just wrong!
  18. 1 point
    TodFitch

    What is my pickup worth?

    Just because someone put $16,000 into a project doesn't mean that it is worth anywhere near that amount. My rough rule of thumb when I was fixing up my old Plymouth was that for every dollar I put into it I was raising the value by 25 cents. And in many cases I think I was optimistic about that. I strongly believe that the cheapest way to have a nice vehicle is to buy it completed.
  19. 1 point
    http://www.oldwillysforum.com/Plymouth/08-uai/uai.html Check out how Pete installed his in his 50 Ply. 4 dr. some years back. Look in the heading "Interior" on his web page. Enjoy your new car. !! I finally got my 50 4 dr, running good again after 5 years on sitting. DJ
  20. 1 point
    go with shoulder harness in the front....two point in the rear although they are not that hard to adapt back there.....not all belts are equal..make sure they meet safety standards...the mounts should sandwich your floor board metal on both sides and the plates need to be large enough to sufficiently to displace the force. Your floor metal needs be solid state of repair. Never mount the anchors to the car frame....you wish to remain one with the cab should it decide to separate from the frame....
  21. 1 point
    jpartington

    Vent windows

    Here is the vent window seal update. i returned my Steele seals and ordered the seals from roberts. I received them today and put them in. A perfect fit turns out the ones from Steele are about an inch too long. The Steele seals were a very high quality nice seal but just did not fit right. I strongly recommend the seals from Roberts if anyone is looking in the future.
  22. 1 point
    Rich, I just realized that I circled around you question as to why the airbags. I decided to go with airbags so I can lay the car as low as possible when parked and raise the car to the desired height when driving. Ive had a 64 cadillac with airbags for the last 15 years and Im very happy with it. I love the fact that I can raise a bit higher to get over driveway ramps, etc. this is the look Im going for.
  23. 1 point
    keithb7

    We and the Windsor 2018

    It seems some folks are unable to see the pic with my new rims. I will upload it here in a different way.
  24. 1 point
    As Adam stated " Langdon's Stovebolt has the Carter/Weber 32's originally used on the 1.6 and 1.8L Escorts. Work great in duals, I still think 3 is too much" That being said that is a fantastic looking manifold. I have them on my 37 Dodge D5 and have worked flawlessly since installed.
  25. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    Job Done, in the end I removed the 4 screws which hold the right hand rear floating mount, within an hour the bracket was aligned to the mounting and bolted back into the frame. Didn't even break a nail. Now to get ready to firer it up.
  26. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    It's in all bar one 9/16unf bolt which screws into the rear floating bracket, will need to remove the lower bolt which is a nut & bolt fixing, then wedge the gape to see when the holes aligned, I will try the mirror on a stick with a torch but there's not alot of room. Getting to old for this rockin n rolling on the floor.
  27. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    Thanks for your support gents, nice to know fellow Mopar guys find the time to browse the threads, here in the UK space for lock-up are a premium, already have 500 sq ft an ex farmers barn which is not suitable for modern farming. I bought my container as an over spill then had the opportunity to buy my 41 Plymouth PT125 and lost my surplus space. None of the photos show the fact that the floor of the container is 2 ft above ground level, fortunately I have a large flatbed trailer tiltbed so getting the truck out will be a dream, here's today's helping.
  28. 1 point
    LODI3QTR

    Show us your suburbans

    This Is My '50 Suburban Driving Through a Sean in " The Marvelous Mrs Maisel " On Amazon Prime TV Series. IMG_9967.MOV
  29. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Valve guides, Spitfire

    In 1969 BSA was offering a new motorcycle to anyone who set a speed record at Bonneville with a rocket 3. The record was around 130MPH. First run I hit 116. Next run was the last for me as the transmission case cracked and no spare was available. But it was a fun week. I met Burt Munro in person and touched the worlds fastest Indian.
  30. 1 point
    TomP

    PT125 Rebuild

    Few more updates from last week, engine trans is ready to go in, just got to clean up the frame, blast & spray, 3 coats Rustoleum, Firewall will be John Deere Green as it was in service. Rust repair to be completed on both sides of the cab, did they all go there?
  31. 1 point
    The Oil Soup

    front shocks

    This should help. http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf
  32. 1 point
    1 5/8" dorman #560-023
  33. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    6 volt tachometer 6 cylinder cars

    Most all tachometer's use the same connections.
  34. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Door Seal Adhesive

    Weldwood rubber contact cement..tape the door opening to the width of your weather strip..coat the door..coat the weather strip..when just dry to the touch..these two will bond like nobody's business...then just pull away tape for quick clean up..wha-la..Bob's your uncle
  35. 1 point
    This is a dual chamber MC but shows how to do it.
  36. 1 point
    David Strieb

    Show Your Wheels

    I run 1950's 15x6 mopar wheels front and back, back tires are P235-75R15, fronts are P205-70R15. Don't know what the caps are from, I modified them to fit the wheels.
  37. 1 point
    deathbound

    Show Your Wheels

    Stock 16" wheels painted black with chrome lug nuts, 6.00-16 Firestone Deluxe Champion bias ply wide whites......
  38. 1 point
    dlrides

    Show Your Wheels

    Added some compliments to the wide whites, with a visor and skirts.
  39. 1 point
    dlrides

    Show Your Wheels

    Stock wheels painted Rio Maroon, Coker 3 1/4" whites, Hollywood Flipper covers.
  40. 1 point
    desoto1939

    Water Pumps

    Yes there are special Miller water pump tools. The is a puller to pullthe end that hold the pull and fan blade. Then ther is a tool to pulland installthe two innter busings. There also is a tool to chase the two inner bushing and also a tool that is used to face the internal section of the bushing. I have these and also a special tool to locate the hole in the main rod that hold the flange to center the hole to drillthe hole inthe main rod that goes throught the pully. I have all of these tools, Miller Tools. Alos note that the rebuild kits if found run about 45-60 dollars sometime you can get a rebuilt WP for the same amount and do not have to worry about if you did the job correctly. So spend 60 for a kit or 70-90 for a pump that you just install and then go for a ride. Some people like to fix other like to replace. Inthe old days they fixed them at the dealership. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
  41. 1 point
    Hmmm, musta missed that sentence. My eyes begin to cross at 1:00 AM. No snub intended.
  42. 1 point
    Young Ed

    Steering Box Debate

    That new seal being slightly thicker might be a good thing. If the old one had worn any kind of groove in the shaft the new seal being thicker should put the worn spot on the inside and give you a fresh start on the sealing surface.
  43. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Have removed hundreds of them over the years. Use a quality puller and don't be a "Pansy"! Never had to wait on one. In the shop get-er done-now. Never stripped one or needed heat either. They always come off. I tighten the screw up really tight with an impact holding the puller with one hand to absorb impact shock. Then tighten some more by banging on the dogbone. Wack the screw end a couple times-tighten the screw up more-repeat if necessary and BANG-off she comes. The early 60's Chryslers are the really hard ones to get off, but they too come off. Got to let the car know who's in charge! Keep the nut on the axle if you don't want to hold the drum with your hand to stop the drum from flying across the shop!!!
  44. 1 point
    jsturner

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Agreed Tim, I wouldn't do this unless driving with loose axle nuts and just using the puller the normal way doesn't work. And be patient and hit it gently with a small hammer! From the manual: Do not strike end of axle shaft to loosen hub because of possible damage to axle shaft and roller bearings. I think this is intended for those who would try to skip the puller and just use a giant hammer. Still, yes, last resort method!
  45. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    also can do internal damage to the carier..this practice is advised against in the repair manual..do not recommend this approach..user take caution..
  46. 1 point
    grey beard

    timing marks

    Okay Gents, a little clarification is in order here.Fiirst off, initial timing is always set at slow, hot idle - NOT at 1200 tpm. This is necessary so that the centrifugal advance weights under the breaker plate in your distributor do not begin to come out and add additional advance. If you set your timing at speeds above slow idle, you are likely getting some centrifugal timing in the mix, which will affect the reading of your timing lighr. Timing on our flatties is important but not real critical. You want as much advance - turn the distributor counter clockwise to adance - as the engine will tolerate without preignition. Usually this boils down to four to six degrees before top dead center. Too much advance, and you get pinging. Too little advance, and the engine runs hotter, burns more fuewl and has less power. As to identifying your acceleragor pump. you really must find a shop manual to know this stuff. It shows a break-down of each part and each circuit. Our Caarter carbs are quite simple and easy to work on, but they must be right to work as they should. I won't attempt to explain the entire carburetor, except to say that at idle, the engine uses the circuit that you adjust with the small screw on the lower side that has a spring behind the head. At higher speeds, the idle circuit is no longer working and the main metering circuit is used. This includes the main jet in the bottom of the fuel bowl and the vengturi cluster in the carb throat. When you accelerate from idle to higher speeds, a hesitation will take place between these two circuits. The accelerator pumop is just a squirter that richens the mixture momentarly on acceleration. Nothig more, nothing less. Terrell Macchine rebuilds old vacuum advances. Bernbaum and Roberts also carry these new. Either way, they are spendy - like $65 to 75 a pop. Good Luck
  47. 1 point
    Charles Furman

    1949 Dodge B1B108 Woodie

    This shot of the inside of my woodie was used in a feature article in the San Diego Union Tribune.
  48. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    We can get you a good deal on Forida beach property right here in South Georgia..it is just a matter of time before the Florida panhandle slips into the gulf...less money out your pocket..however you must have patience...
  49. 1 point
    billwillard

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Don't knock it till you try it. Have done this for 50 years. BILL
  50. 1 point
    billwillard

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Loosen wheel nuts 1/2 turn. After reinstalling cater pins drive until you hear a pop. You'r drum is now loose. BILL


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use