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  1. 2 points
    Roger the Dodger

    Aussie DeSoto

    G'day All, This is my 1955 DeSoto Diplomat Regent. I bought it recently and got a Roadworthy Certificate yesterday morning, and got Club Permit plates in the afternoon. Previous owners have thrown a lot of money at it and all I had to do was replace a defective hydraulic brake light switch. It is a SP25-3 with a 250.6 cu in motor (3 7/16 x 4 1/2) and 3 speed with O/drive. The carby is off a Falcon with aftermarket air cleaner. Electric fuel pump next to tank. It has been repainted at some time and the engine fully recoed. Recently the head has been shaved .050". Now to drive the wheels off it.
  2. 2 points

    Kustom grilles for 51 dodge

    Here ya go
  3. 2 points

    First Plymouth 1949 Special Deluxe

    Had a nice hour long drive around central MN this evening. Haven’t been able to take Myrtle out since Sunday with all the rain! Ran great and got a couple of waves. I also upgraded the door hardware.
  4. 2 points


    My dash had rust spots and large scratches. I sanded it down to bare metal, primer and gave it a base beige spray then after doing some research on airbrush techniques, gave it a try .... after all, if I messed up I could always sand it down and start over. Sanding and priming took a day. Base color took a day. Practice with the airbrush on those days (on scrap) and while drying. Airbrush graining took a day and then clear coat (2k). Did the dash and the windshield interior frame at the same time for color/technique consistency. Here are some pics of the dash I did with an older spare I had. If you would like a write up on the colors and technique, let me know and I’ll document it. I also wanted a little redder and brighter finish.
  5. 2 points
    Rich, I just realized that I circled around you question as to why the airbags. I decided to go with airbags so I can lay the car as low as possible when parked and raise the car to the desired height when driving. Ive had a 64 cadillac with airbags for the last 15 years and Im very happy with it. I love the fact that I can raise a bit higher to get over driveway ramps, etc. this is the look Im going for.
  6. 1 point

    1938 Aussie 7 Passenger Plymouth

    I have visited this site a few times in the past but recently started again and have been impressed with the activity, the assistance offered and the relevance to my interests. I currently have a 1929 Plymouth tourer with body by Holden Australia restored on club licence since 1999, a 1955 Plymouth Belvedere Suburban RHD built in Detroit with 259 V8 and 2 speed auto also on club licence, and a 1938 7 passenger Plymouth with Aussie Richards body, in a million pieces. This my first attempt at a post with pics so hope it works. I purchased the '38 running and licensed in Feb 1981 with the plan of having a car I could use for club events while I slowly rebuilt my 1929 Plymouth from a wreck. It was painted black, the engine barely ran and the leather upholstery was falling apart, but we drove it onto the trailer under its own steam. I cant find any pictures of it as bought but I must have been dazzled by the fact it was a 7 passenger and had all its chrome and fittings. There was no water in the radiator and It turned out the engine had a hole in the head above No 1 cylinder, every pot had broken rings, and water had corroded the bearings, crank and camshaft. The bottom of each centre door post was rusted out, and there was rust in the boot (trunk) area. By July 1982 I had it on the road with new paint (Ford Neptune Blue), new tyres and a temporary engine out of a 1936 Dodge utility (pickup) that we found abandoned up in the hills, and sheets tacked over rebuilt seat frames. My daughter in the pic below is now 41! In the next couple of years I fixed oil leaks, replaced spring bushings, brakes and wheel bearings and changed the diff from original 7 passenger 4.3 to standard 4.1 ratio as we tend to travel longish distances. By 1984 I was ready to replace the interior with upholstery in original blue leather. When I stripped the hood lining I discovered I had serious rust issues under the lead used in large quantities on the roof, which was fabricated from a standard roof cut in half with a central insert about 18 inches wide. The repairs were completed by Nov 1985 and the car was back on the road, however the upholstery guy was no longer available. In 1988 we had a surprise addition to the family, a baby girl after 17 year drought! The upholstery money went on adding a bedroom. In the meantime the car was used as a daily driver by my wife on the school run - rule was "no running in the car"! By 1995 the brake lines had rusted thru, the radiator had collapsed for the second time, the exhaust was shot, valves keep sticking and to cap it off I backed it into our Falcon wagon and badly dented the boot. I deregistered it in disgust as by that time I was making progress on the 29. Fast forward to 2012 and we have changed address, I now have 1/2 acre and a 5 bay shed. However to fit the 7 passenger in it I had to remove the front clip. The car is now a mobile storage unit for surfboards, wetsuits and a couple of broken chairs. But it still runs! I plan to post an outline of the rebuild process which started in 2012, but here is a recent pic of the body on a home made rotisserie - stripping back roof to bare metal after a VERY bad sand blast and prime job. Jim
  7. 1 point


    Found these while going through some old files! Big truck 4x4 conversion kits!
  8. 1 point

    Kustom grilles for 51 dodge

    I am computer illiterate, but if you check me out on the member list and scroll to June 28, 2014 I had my grandson post some pictures of my '52 Wayfarer. I made the grill from 6 sets of VW bumper guards. Had to cut all but the center one, but was no big deal. Bob
  9. 1 point
    '50 B2C

    Pertronix back to points conversion

    Thank you all as a community for helping me out, I was banging my head against the wall trying to figure out if I wanted to just go 12v conversion or stick 6v and I'm glad there is a reliable 6v solution out there. Y'all know how to make someone feel welcome and I appreciate it!
  10. 1 point
    Reg Evans

    1958 Sweptside question

    Welcome to the forum ! I owned a 58 Dodge Sweptside several years ago. Mine had the big back window, a push button auto, and a 315 V8 Poly engine and the rare Model 700 ceiling mounted radio. I'm still kicking myself for selling it. NOTE: the grill was from a 59. Hows about posting some photos of yours here .
  11. 1 point

    1952 B3B Interior

    Here is the interior of my B3B with the Quiet ride kit installed. I had to paint it before installation. I am very satisfied with the way it looks.
  12. 1 point

    New '49 Dodge on the block.

    Anxious wait while our new Dodge delivery is completed. Bought sight unseen from a FaceBook Marketplace sale notice , Travelled 1700km via Webtow, http://www.webtow.com.au Can't be happier, non runner but way better than expected. Original books and paperwork included , receipts showing 4 previous owners. Toyed with the idea of converting it to EV , but its too damn good, going to bring back to new .
  13. 1 point
    Michael Sams

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    Guys this is what I'm going to be working with. But I guess you have to start somewhere. I will be the official second owner of this beauty. And have the whole history on this truck. It's going to be a long road but I'm in for the long haul. I can't wait to get it back up and running and start to drive it. Thanks for all the help so far and hope that I might be able to call on you all for some help.
  14. 1 point

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    Michael - I have restored a B4B, long wheel base with Fluid Drive. Take LOTS of photos and expect frustration on a regular basis. When you rewire it, make the wires behind the dash longer than original - it will make your life MUCH easier when you put it back together or have to change a light bulb (I wish someone had warned me to do that). If you get stuck on something, I might have a photo that will help. Oh, and if you have the one year only plastic Dodge emblem from the dash (Brent's photo), be darn careful with it and not club-fisted like me. The little metal clips on the mounting prongs work great for breaking off the prongs, and clumsy fingers are great for breaking the script. On top of that, it isn't really made of plastic, its made from pure Unobtanium. Brent's photo is the one from my truck that I kinda broke twice, glued back together, painted the back white and got mounted in my truck. Photo is my truck at Luckenbach, TX. Good luck working on your "Time Machine." Bob
  15. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Got a new toy

    I'd refer to that as being a bit lower and at the rear of your body.....😎
  16. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    difference is 1/4 ton (LOL, just kidding!) suspension and wheel base is the biggies. yes, my B4D (one ton) sheet metal is the same as my B3B (1/2 ton) this is a great "resource" http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/pilothouse.htm if you haven't seen it yet
  17. 1 point
    Reg Evans

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    Usually the 3/4 and 1 ton's have longer beds so the running boards are longer too.
  18. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    Dodge b series 1/2 ton.

    hey welcome Michael, if your doing a "restoration" be careful when you get to removing the emblems.... especially that dash "dodge" script! oh and please don't put the front clip "dodge" script from the 52 back on the 53..... that's just wrong!
  19. 1 point

    What is my pickup worth?

    Just because someone put $16,000 into a project doesn't mean that it is worth anywhere near that amount. My rough rule of thumb when I was fixing up my old Plymouth was that for every dollar I put into it I was raising the value by 25 cents. And in many cases I think I was optimistic about that. I strongly believe that the cheapest way to have a nice vehicle is to buy it completed.
  20. 1 point
    Check out Julianos https://www.julianos.com/Seat-Belts-s/96.htm
  21. 1 point

    New Car Day! 1938 P6 Plymouth Deluxe

    I’ll crawl all over this car from top to bottom. For a couple of reasons. It’s all new to me and I’m enjoying the knowledge I am gaining. I also want to inspect everything and ensure its safe. In today’s example I had my legs up over the seat. My head down under the dash inspecting all the wiring. Found some interesting wiring for sure. Bad stuff that will be replaced right away.
  22. 1 point

    M6 (Gyro-Matic) stalling issue

    Do you have the proper Dodge shop manual? They have a good section on trouble shooting these transmission systems. Not downshifting could be electrical or hydraulic related. Regarding your comment on the interrupter switch. One of my shop manuals reads: Ignition Interrupter Resistor Check: With engine running ground the blue wire on the resistor, or at the interrupter switch. This should stall the engine. If the engine does not stall, either the blue wire from the interruptor switch to the resistor, the resistor itself, or the blue wire from the resistor to the coil is at fault. My understanding is, when you floor the accelerator when in 4th, at certain speed, the carb linkage sends a signal to the interruptor switch. It sends the ignition system coil to ground momentarily to remove engine power (load) from the transmission, to allow for a down-shift. There is also an anti-stall control on the carb. This is a dashpot to control a slow closing of the throttle. It prevents stalling upon quick release of the throttle. It appears there are several systems to check. A good Mopar manual is highly recommended. Several of the tests are simple, done with a continuity light.
  23. 1 point
    nolan in blaine

    Jeep axle swap

    So this is just a thread im writing for reference. To give someone a bit more info on the swap if they search for it and are thinking about it. My car is a 37 chrysler Royal 4 door. I had the 4.30 gear. It sucked bad. I bought a 3.55 rear end from a 96 Cherokee complete drum to drum. Typlicaly you find the Dana 35 but i lucked out and wound up with a Chrysler 8.25. Its a bit stronger im told. It measured about 3/4" narrower then the '37 axle. No biggie. I had to cut the shock mounts, and spring perches off. I used the perches off the '37 axle and welded them on the bottom of the jeep axle. I was able to bolt it in using the chrysler royal u-bolts. I did have to get a new drive line built. It needed to be 54 9/16" from the flange on the back of the O/D unit to the center of the u-joint on the axle. The new drive line had to have a slip yoke in place. I cut the ebrake cables off at the backing plates and just kept the original parking brake in the 37. I had to adapt the rear brake lines from the chrysler to the jeep, but running the newer rear brakes has made a huge difference in stopping power. Id say its partly due to the smaller diameter rear wheel cylinders taking less volume to move, and also im sure i never had the old brakes adjusted right anyway. But it stops much better! I will say, if you're thinking about better gearing... Do it! This swap isnt hard at all if you can do some cutting and welding. I paid $100 for the axle, and another $375 for the brand new drive shaft. Before the swap, I could do about 55-60 in overdrive and it sounded like it was wound to tight. I know it would probably do it all day but i felt it was revving too high. Now it will cruise on the freeway doing 75 and its nice and easy. And on the back roads it does 50-55 in 3rd. Im glad i got the 3.55 gears but a 3.23 would have been just a bit better. 3.73s seem a bit more common but i dont think it would have been ideal for my car. Another benefit i to the swap, for me anyway, is the horrendous vibration i had at cruising speed is completely gone. Its super smooth now. Now to get some seat belts in this thing so i can take the kids over the pass this summer!
  24. 1 point

    Rack and pinion steering for 46 Plymouth

    Im considering adding rack and pinion steering on my 46 Plymouth. Id like to know if all units require power or if they work without and if they dont need power does it make the steering much easier turning than stock. THX, Dale
  25. 1 point

    Time for an overhaul...

    Fascinating read. Old carbs were jetted for straight gasoline. It is not surprising they run lean with 10% ethanol. You might consider transistor ignition, which allows for stronger spark - wider plug gap and longer spark duration. Burning leaner mixture in modern engines critically depends on it. Original distributor can be used, with points triggering an electronic switch (a Darlington transistor) connected to coil's primary. A 6V coil designed for electronic ignition will be needed. A very simple setup. An additional advantage is complete elimination of points' erosion. Are you planning on using the original oil bath filter? These filters don't clean air as efficiently as modern paper filters, and are #1 cause of rapid wear of old time engines. There are paper filters that will dimensionally fit inside oil bath filter case, if original look is to be preserved.
  26. 1 point

    PT125 Rebuild

    Been a while since posting here, moved along a little with this 41, have stripped the bodywork off of the front end so that I could prepare it for a 1947 T142 engine trans that has been de-coked and tidied in readiness for fitting.Still can't embed Photos into text Primed, Frame with 2 coats of Rust-Oleum, 2 Coates John Deere Green in keeping with it's former life, plus the engine waiting to be fired up.
  27. 1 point

    Show us your suburbans

    This Is My '50 Suburban Driving Through a Sean in " The Marvelous Mrs Maisel " On Amazon Prime TV Series. IMG_9967.MOV
  28. 1 point


    Dish washing detergent and lots of it. Put the glass into the rubber, Lube the outer rubber channel and slip a cord into the channel. Lube the metal with the dishwashing detergent as well. You may want to experiment with mixing a little water with the detergent as some say this makes it more slippery. Start the rubber channel onto the metal that the window goes into. Keeping pressure in the glass start pulling the cord from the opposite side gradually working the rubber lip over the metal. It helps to slap the glass with your flat palm, not banging with a fist, or work the cord in a circular motion as you are removing it. The cord I used was paracord.
  29. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Valve guides, Spitfire

    In 1969 BSA was offering a new motorcycle to anyone who set a speed record at Bonneville with a rocket 3. The record was around 130MPH. First run I hit 116. Next run was the last for me as the transmission case cracked and no spare was available. But it was a fun week. I met Burt Munro in person and touched the worlds fastest Indian.
  30. 1 point

    PT125 Rebuild

    Few more updates from last week, engine trans is ready to go in, just got to clean up the frame, blast & spray, 3 coats Rustoleum, Firewall will be John Deere Green as it was in service. Rust repair to be completed on both sides of the cab, did they all go there?
  31. 1 point

    PT125 Rebuild

    You want dirt this is the T142 before and during, after is complete color wise but will have to wait for photos
  32. 1 point

    Engine removal

    I have a '49 Plymouth P18 (body style is a woody) that is new to me and I am striping it down for sheet metal, paint and wood replacement. As part of the restoration, I want to remove the engine and transmission as 1 unit. I have removed the heater, fuel pump, all electrical and trans linkages etc. I see that there are 2 engine mounts in the front (high on the engine on top of a larger bracket) and 2 at the rear of the engine. I have removed the hood as well and plan to remove the starter so that it will clear the steering column and gearshift mechanism. My question is, Can I disconnect the driveshaft at the transmission and take the engine/ tranny out as 1 unit? or do I have to separate the engine from the trans at the bell housing ? Thanks, Josh
  33. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    6 volt tachometer 6 cylinder cars

    I have converted to 12 volts. I located this tachometer on eBay several years back and I paid less than ten bucks. It took a bit of searching to find one that only goes to six grand. It has worked flawlessly for several years. This photo was taken before I shifted into 5th gear. When I shifted the RPM's dropped to around 2400.
  34. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    6 volt tachometer 6 cylinder cars

    Most all tachometer's use the same connections.
  35. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Door Seal Adhesive

    Weldwood rubber contact cement..tape the door opening to the width of your weather strip..coat the door..coat the weather strip..when just dry to the touch..these two will bond like nobody's business...then just pull away tape for quick clean up..wha-la..Bob's your uncle
  36. 1 point

    Show Your Wheels

    Stock wheels painted Rio Maroon, Coker 3 1/4" whites, Hollywood Flipper covers.
  37. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Show Your Wheels

    On occasion I have been called a loose nut.
  38. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Show Your Wheels

    Here you go. The wheel I get to play with the most. I have liked chrome wheels all my life.
  39. 1 point

    Water Pumps

    Finding old threads has not been easy for me......seems I have to stumble across it them in a search. This really is a great thread Merle. And great pics JBN. I mean without this thread...the water pump that was laying in the oil pan of a motor I bought....I would have thought in was an internal water pump, and just left it there..... 48D
  40. 1 point

    DODGE ROUTE VAN (Wanted)

    Large wall poster for the RV. I threw a $20 bill in for size reference.
  41. 1 point
    Young Ed

    Steering Box Debate

    That new seal being slightly thicker might be a good thing. If the old one had worn any kind of groove in the shaft the new seal being thicker should put the worn spot on the inside and give you a fresh start on the sealing surface.
  42. 1 point
    nj viking

    Found the elusive Napa shock Part #'s

    I know some were looking for the Monroe shocks from Napa with no avail. I gave the numbers 31000 and 32207 to my buddy that owns a Napa store. Couldn't find it.. He calls Monroe for the numbers and gets it. Plus he says they're a pretty common shock and had them in stock. 94008 (31000) 94038 (32207) The list price is $74 for all. Neatest thing is I open the box and the shocks are stamped 31000 and 32207! Go figure.... Viking.
  43. 1 point

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Agreed Tim, I wouldn't do this unless driving with loose axle nuts and just using the puller the normal way doesn't work. And be patient and hit it gently with a small hammer! From the manual: Do not strike end of axle shaft to loosen hub because of possible damage to axle shaft and roller bearings. I think this is intended for those who would try to skip the puller and just use a giant hammer. Still, yes, last resort method!
  44. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    also can do internal damage to the carier..this practice is advised against in the repair manual..do not recommend this approach..user take caution..
  45. 1 point
    grey beard

    timing marks

    Okay Gents, a little clarification is in order here.Fiirst off, initial timing is always set at slow, hot idle - NOT at 1200 tpm. This is necessary so that the centrifugal advance weights under the breaker plate in your distributor do not begin to come out and add additional advance. If you set your timing at speeds above slow idle, you are likely getting some centrifugal timing in the mix, which will affect the reading of your timing lighr. Timing on our flatties is important but not real critical. You want as much advance - turn the distributor counter clockwise to adance - as the engine will tolerate without preignition. Usually this boils down to four to six degrees before top dead center. Too much advance, and you get pinging. Too little advance, and the engine runs hotter, burns more fuewl and has less power. As to identifying your acceleragor pump. you really must find a shop manual to know this stuff. It shows a break-down of each part and each circuit. Our Caarter carbs are quite simple and easy to work on, but they must be right to work as they should. I won't attempt to explain the entire carburetor, except to say that at idle, the engine uses the circuit that you adjust with the small screw on the lower side that has a spring behind the head. At higher speeds, the idle circuit is no longer working and the main metering circuit is used. This includes the main jet in the bottom of the fuel bowl and the vengturi cluster in the carb throat. When you accelerate from idle to higher speeds, a hesitation will take place between these two circuits. The accelerator pumop is just a squirter that richens the mixture momentarly on acceleration. Nothig more, nothing less. Terrell Macchine rebuilds old vacuum advances. Bernbaum and Roberts also carry these new. Either way, they are spendy - like $65 to 75 a pop. Good Luck
  46. 1 point
    Charles Furman

    1949 Dodge B1B108 Woodie

    This shot of the inside of my woodie was used in a feature article in the San Diego Union Tribune.
  47. 1 point

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Go to my earler post. It will work.
  48. 1 point

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Don't knock it till you try it. Have done this for 50 years. BILL
  49. 1 point

    Removing Rear Brake Drums

    Loosen wheel nuts 1/2 turn. After reinstalling cater pins drive until you hear a pop. You'r drum is now loose. BILL
  50. 1 point
    Mark D

    Northeast Members Rides

    Please post some pictures here of the cars this group is driving.

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