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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/19/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Again. Does anyone know who to contact to get my dad kicked off my topic. My dad told me how he messed up a simple oil change when he was my age. Didn't take the plastic protector from the inside of the filter opening before screwing it in place. So when he told my grandpa that the Marines had assigned him to mechanic school, my grandpa couldn't stop laughing for the rest of the evening.
  2. 2 points
    Hickory

    Northeast member check in please

    Fulton New York, sounds like fun. I haven't taken the car over a 20 mile ride yet. May not make it with the car
  3. 2 points
    Give him some credit Pops.......most kids can't even change a u joint at his age and look what he has accomplished so far.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    bkahler

    TRUCK MASTER CYLINDER UPGRADE ADVICE

    Took the time this evening to make a mounting bracket for the Grand Cherokee MC. Once all of the holes were in place I found an interesting dilemma. The two holes at the top of the bracket are very slightly blocked by the MC. This will necessitate grinding clearance spots on the MC casting. Not a whole lot and I don't think it will interfere with the integrity of the MC but without modifying the bell housing casting by boring out the holes in the casting to remove the threads I don't see any other alternative. For myself I'm not willing to permanently alter the bell housing so I'll modify the MC itself. Sometime this week I hope to do the grinding on the MC for clearance so I can actually mount the MC to the truck and verify the brake pedal pushrod mates properly to the MC. Back when I had the original MC bolted to the truck I noticed that it appeared to sit slightly at an angle. Tonight that became pretty obvious once I bolted the plate to the truck! Not sure why Dodge mounted it that way but it sure looks odd. That angle is not something I can correct by relocating holes due to the interference of the top holes with the MC. It would just make one of the holes worse. Anyway, I'm a little closer to having an MC bolted to the truck Brad It just dawned on me, the two two bolts could be countersunk and flathead screws could be used to fasten the plate to the bell housing and then the MC would be bolted in place. Something to think about......
  6. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    23" short block weight?

    750 lbs seems kinda high for a fully assembled 23" engine.. 565 lbs was stuck in my mind on a post as long time ago.
  7. 1 point
    Tooljunkie

    TRUCK MASTER CYLINDER UPGRADE ADVICE

    Shiny...
  8. 1 point
    A friend/coworker of mine drove a Yugo in the late '80's that just wouldn't die. He couldn't make right-hand turns without first having a plan to hold the driver's door closed, windows only worked intermittently (not a good thing with no AC and being in south Texas) and he had to check the rearview mirror for parts every time he hit railroad tracks over 20 mph, but it just kept on running. He isn't a "car guy" by any stretch of the imagination, all that mattered to him was that it started and ran "OK", so he swore by it regardless of the ribbing he got from us. Only got rid of it because he got married, had a kid, and had to take his loved ones' well-being into consideration.
  9. 1 point
    Picked up good driver’s side hood release cable. Should arrive next week! still trying to find a good shifter knob.
  10. 1 point
    Started building the exhaust today. No pictures of that yet. Ran out of tubing, will finish after Xmas. Few just because pictures.
  11. 1 point
    NickPickToo

    In Memory of Don Coatney

    I'm a new member, but I learned quickly to look extra close when I got a note from Mr. Coatney or sourced one of his threads on an issue I was studying. Mrs Coatney and family. Thank you for sharing him with us.
  12. 1 point
    MackTheFinger

    Bucketlist Car For Me Aquired

    Nice car!! My sister bought a '67 396 SS 4 speed convertible brand-spanking new. At the time I had a '65 Mustang with a 289 4-speed. She wanted to drive my Mustang one day and a couple of hours later called and asked "How in the heck do you get this car into reverse?" She didn't know that reverse was in a different location on a Ford top-loader than on a GM Muncie. 🙂 I have really fond memories of my dear departed sister and her Chevelle. Blasting along the freeway in New Orleans listening to Sgt. Pepper and flying through one-horse Mississippi towns after midnight at 100+ MPH, howling at the moon with my half-psychotic BIL behind the wheel.. There'd sometimes be a red light in the rear view but by then we were so far ahead they couldn't catch up! Those were the good old days!!
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Andydodge

    331 hemi heads

    Classic............where do I send the cheque.........lol.............thanks mate.......andyd
  15. 1 point
    One place I can recommend to you is the MyMopar site. This site has the Master Tech series of booklets and filmstrips, and is a great way to give you knowledge on late 40s mechanics. You can look up filmstrips by subject and by year. They are great and entertaining, and they will teach you more than just reading the service manual. http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=117
  16. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Headlight relay verification

    You stated it yourself. Since the brake light load isn't going through the ammeter it doesn't sense the current demand. However, the voltage regulator does see the voltage drop in the battery and increases output of the generator, thus showing a positive charge on your ammeter. If the brake light circuit was pulling through the ammeter it would read a negative number for the current draw of the lights, and the positive charge from the generator would offset that. The ammeter would then only show the difference.
  17. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Headlight relay verification

    majority of the folks utilizing the dual relay are taking the cue from the modern car that has the dimmer switch on the turn signal stalk and yes they utilized two relays and they also fuse both low and high beam circuits. With our era heavier components, even the stock light switch is heavy in our old cars, BUT they are getting old and showing contact wear same as we are. This wear is thinning contacts and with higher current and thin contacts this is a failure in the making thus the relay to remove the current and continue using the switch just to energize the coil of the relay. Just feed the dimmer switch input from a relay and leave all other wiring in place as stock. The wires will more than handle the current and your only task here is ensuring they are not frayed, nicked and have clean contacts at all junctions and clean grounds, star washer work wonders on grounds.
  18. 1 point
    Dodgeed

    License Plate Collecting

    Here are some of the plates I'd mentioned in the earlier post.
  19. 1 point
    JBNeal

    Door limiter?

    additional information - Door Check Operation
  20. 1 point
    Todd B

    Coolant in the Oil

    I am a carpenter/cabinet maker with tons of experience and very little experience with mechanic work, so don’t take what I have to say to heart. But my experience with O’Reillys is that everything they have is crap kind of like Harbor Freight. It will work but if you need to depend on it on a daily basis it won’t stand up.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    This might or might not help.
  23. 1 point
    JBNeal

    "Farmer fixes"

    I got a wild hair to kill 2 birds with one stone as I needed to visit the local locksmith, so I figured I'd get a key cut for the Spring Special since it didn't have one supplied by the previous owner. I carefully removed the ignition switch from the dash, and mr. butterfingers dropped it on the floorboards...that's when I noticed the cylinder had fallen out of the switch. Upon further examination, it appears that somebody took the pins out of the cylinder, and all ya needed to operate the switch was a used corn dog stick
  24. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    "Farmer fixes"

    I've heard others say that the home made bio-diesel will smell a bit like what it cooked.....I have no first hand on this.....but when out camping....perking coffee and fresh smell of bacon frying....two items that go together well...a morning worth getting up for...
  25. 1 point
    Radarsonwheels

    "Farmer fixes"

    you did it wrong. campbells soup cans are the professional way to do it. if you use hormel chili the red cap from the can can also be used as a tail light lense edit: I added a pic of my ramcharger exhaust- this can was goya black beans and lasted a few months before I swapped to headers and new duals! also please note my pebble beach level of fit and finish- the clamps are clocked the same as are the slots in the screws. Professional.
  26. 1 point
    Brent B3B

    "Farmer fixes"

    my B3HH has a "pedal stiffener" AKA section of rebar welded to the brake pedal and along the bend for extra support
  27. 1 point
    Radarsonwheels

    "Farmer fixes"

    I took about ten feet of bailing wire out of my 3 on the tree shift linkage...
  28. 1 point
    BobT-47P15

    Paint colors (engine & accessories) list

    This list may be available on this website somewhere, but thought I would post it again in case some had not seen it. The colors apply to a Plymouth P15, but should be similar on other brands and models. Additional Plymouth Paint Information (Dodge is believed to be similar) Silver Black (Semi Gloss) Gray Unpainted Block Oil Pan Head Water Pump Oil Pump Paint Details Front Engine Mounts Mainfolds Clutch Housing Transmission Oil Filler Tube Dipstick Tube Front Pulley Thermostat Housing Heater Bypass Hose Starter Generator Distributor Body Wire Loom Holder Coil Holder Coil Air Breather Air Cleaner Air Cleaner Steady Breather Brace Valve Chamber Vent Valve Chamber Tube Fuel Pump Shield Fan & Pully Oil Filter Filter Brace Steering Box Entire Frame Brake Master Cylinder Brake Lines Inner Front Fender Shields Radiator Side Shields Engine Dust Shields Hood Lock Plate Brace Horns And Bracket Bumper Supports Radiator Support Radiator Cross Bar Under Body Inside Floorpan Underside Of Hood Underside Of Trunk Lid Front Stone Guards Rear Stone Guards Front Fender Center Panel Grille Panel All Fenders (Inside) Inside Trunk Area Trunk Hinges Trunk Wheelwells (Trunk Side) Backside Of Wheels Fuel Pump Carb Fuel Lines Oil & Vacuum Lines Accelerator linkage Shift rods
  29. 1 point
    keithb7

    We and the Windsor 2018

    Took "The '53" all the way down the big hill today. To the valley bottom. Put on my new seat belt and put the tranny in low range. I went 15-20 Mph to the bottom. Low range holds 4,000 lbs back pretty good! Not unlike a master cylinder, I need to pump up my confidence in my recent brake overhaul job. Time for a visit to the exhaust Doctor. Tail pipe is rusted through in the low spots where water sits I guess. Tail pipe broke off at muffler too. All rusted up. Its all going. New exhaust pipe and muffler from header back. The mechanic is in his 50’s I estimate. I offered to show him how to do the Fluid Torque Drive boogie. He had never seen a F.T.D. Before. He was intrigued. Asked how long it was around for. I could not rightly answer. How long was it around? The ‘53 will spend the night the shop. I’ll pick it up tomorrow evening. One last fearful look as I walk away. Nobody else has turned a wrench on my car since I took possession.
  30. 1 point
    Todd B

    Is Craftsman comming back?

    I’m not so sure it’s greed of corporate America or the union scale that drives the cost of everything and send it overseas. My opinion union had its place years ago But GREED took over and now the end user pays for it. I just ordered a new dodge dually, $65,000. Ridiculously overpriced,
  31. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Is Craftsman comming back?

    and if you are a gorilla, I have had less trouble with any Craftsman return than that of any jobber sold tool system bar none.....at least the Craftsman store had it in stock and swapped on the spot compared to maybe a week or more for the other guys....oh, they come through, but on their schedule unfortunately. Like Young Ed, I get my tools on the 'proven side' of life, mainly at the pawn shops for pennies on the dollar and buying Craftsman, I still get that exchange warranty. There are no jobbers 40 miles out in the country for warranty exchange and 95% of the time, no store front for them either. Got to weight all in the buying/use process
  32. 1 point
    Flatie46

    Is Craftsman comming back?

    One thing that really makes me mad is that just because it says it's made in the USA doesn't mean it is. I think like if you buy like for instance a socket set. As long as 30% of what you bought was made in the USA they can say it was. But this counts the box, packaging, and odd crap. So the actual tools or most of them wouldn't have to be. Or you have the secnerio where it's put together here with parts from other countries. Its all very frustrating to me.
  33. 1 point
    Finished the exhaust this morning. Photo shows it all welded and ready for paint. Video shows it installed. Estimates for a shop to make the dual exhaust for my 47 coupe ranged from $900 to $1400. I did it for $400 and had parts left over from the bend kit that I bought. First part shows the exhaust without the splash pans. Shop said that there was no way to keep it. Second part show that I was able to do the impossible I guess. Not a very good video but can't expect much for only 18" of clearance, holding a light in one hand and the camera in the other. lol
  34. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    52 Dodge Pilothouse

    T314 is a F or H 1-1/2 ton truck.
  35. 1 point
    Years ago, I picked up the smallest Craftsman siphon unit that was on sale to clean up some wheels and smaller parts. I used it inside a pole barn with a dirt floor, so I employed an old pickup bed liner as a trough of sorts to work in. Even using care as to keep the sand aimed on the parts, I ended up getting sand on everything inside that barn (dust too) as the sand would bounce off the work parts and randomly track in every direction. Even wearing a hood, welding gloves, long sleeves & ear plugs, I still got dust in my eyes & nose, judging by the sinus headaches & whutnot that would follow the next day after use. And I was ignorant of the moisture filter that was needed, so my nozzle clogged often from condensation from the compressor. After going through several bags of sand doing sample parts & one wheel, I calculated my operating costs and compared that to the cost of a media blasting company that is in town, and I opted to have them blast my other wheels. Those wheels were scaly rusty, so those guys were gonna do a much better job than my li'l setup could do. But for other parts, the siphon unit did well, and with practice and patience, I cleaned up some sheet metal without damage. I also taught myself how to setup everything so once the blaster was running, I was cleaning one part after another with minimal stops and eventually learned how to estimate how much sand was needed to clean certain size parts. As I gear up to do some more sand blasting, I plan on making a temporary shed of sorts inside that pole barn so as not to lose so much sand, making a 2x4 frame with poly plastic sheeting to knock the sand back down to the bed liner for re-use. I definitely would not trust a media blasting company to do any sheet metal as them folks just knock rust off and don't care about warping.
  36. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Removing Timing Chain

    Both of those chains have clearly visible sag and should be replaced. Here is what a new one looks like:
  37. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Removing Timing Chain

    Before your start set the engine up for TDC on #1. That way the timing marks on the gears will be correct. You will have to figure out a way to support the front of the engine. You need to pull the front motor mount to get the cover off. If your are going to replace the front plate you will need to pull the oil pan. (Bolt from the backside) (Don C or PA please confirm this) Replace both the gears and chain together. Unbolt the cam gear and you can pop it off with the screwdriver. New one goes on with a couple taps of rubber mallet. Crank gear will need a puller to remove. Slide new crank gear on without keyway, set, then drive in key. Job is way easier if you pull the radiator.
  38. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Pilot-House Decals Are Done.

    I want to thank B1B Keven for putting together this project and helping support the site!
  39. 1 point
    40plyrod

    Rust free 40 plymouth sedan

    More progress. My master cylinder install is now done, minus paint and plumbing. I'm pretty happy with the results. I ended up having to machine a new pin boss to weld to the brake pedal arm to get enough stroke for the ford master cylinder but the pedal ratio is still fine. More pics
  40. 1 point
    Jim Yergin

    headlights showing almost no light

    Edwin, Auto-Lite HRB-4201 Jim Yergin
  41. 1 point
    DutchEdwin

    headlights showing almost no light

    Randy, thanks, I did some seaching on this site, and come up with some good posts. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=16390&highlight=headlights+relay http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=28661&highlight=headlights+relay Also the wiring diagram I was planning to use.
  42. 1 point
    B1B Keven

    Gauge faces.

    They're done. I also made and had printed some clock faces using the same font. Shoot me a PM if interested.
  43. 1 point
    tysouthwick

    Bonneville Day 3

    You need more stickers they make you go faster. Its funny I live in utah but I have never been to the salt flats
  44. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Bonneville Day 3

    Whoops! Sorry! I simply forgot until this thresd got me to thinking about everything I forgot. Now I cant think about anything except what I forgot:confused: I forgot what I was going to say but I am thinking about it.
  45. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Bonneville Day 3

    One thing I learned on the salt. Go hammer down off the line. Dont go to mile marker 1 or 2 and then go hammer down, best times are hammer down from the git go. The salt slippage gets worse at the higher speeds.
  46. 1 point
    48Dodger

    Bonneville Day 3

    YEEEHAWWW!!!!!! lol.....what a blast! had the best time ever. I'm pretty happy to have a place to share the experience too. Bob was a great driver and he and his brother Earl made great pit crew members. Next year Earl wants to drive too. The best moment was watching my son take the wheel. He really is my best friend and to be able to share that moment on the track, meant an awlful lot to me. Thanks guys for the kind words. Nice to have friends who get how fun these trucks are. 48D
  47. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Bonneville Day 3

    That flat red paint is very restrictive. Need shiney paint for better aerodynamics and lots more speed. Wish I was there.....
  48. 1 point
    ggdad1951

    Bonneville Day 3

    I can't imagine what 1mph feels like! That is just so cool!
  49. 1 point
    Tony WestOZ

    Measurement of rear end on 1/2

    Ok a 1952 Pilothouse truck diff is 62 1/4" wide from where the wheel bolts too. It is an 81/4" diff. It looks the same as the 8 3/4" in this chart. This is an 8 1/4" diff. The easyest way to tell the difference between 8 1//4" and 8 3/4" is to count the nuts (bolts, studs whatever) that hold the pumpkin ( carrier whatever) in. 8 1/4 have 11 nuts, 8 3/4 have 10. The other way to tell is the two top nuts are closer together on an 8 3/4 than they are on an 8 1/4. Taperd axles (where the drum goes on) were used on 8 3/4 diffs from 57 to 64. Flanged axles started in 65. There are also 3 pinion sizes from 57 to 72 but thats an other story. Sorry for pinching the pics from another poster but they are better than the ones I have. Forgot, there were some 8 3/4 that had an 4" pcd instead of the usual 4 1/2" pcd. They are rare but it pays to check.
  50. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Measurement of rear end on 1/2

    I tried to find some pictures of 8 3/4 axles for comparison, but this is all I could find. Here are some pics of an original axle in my 3/4 ton truck. (1/2 ton axles are the same) Not an 8 3/4" Axle. A dead give away between the two, besides their size, would be the wheel hub. An 8 3/4 would have a flanged axle shaft which would contain the wheel studs. The original axle would have a tapered axle to which the brake drum fits and is held on with a castle nut. Merle
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