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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/24/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    moose

    My new 54

    Thirty years ago, my dad bought me my first car. I still have that blue and black 54 Belvedere Hardtop. Today I got another one(but this time yellow and black), I was 17 then, and my son will be 17 in two years. Two years ought to be enough time, huh?
  2. 2 points
    Did the deal on this one today. 1938 P6. Great known history. Solid car. Original interior. D24 engine installed but comes with original P6 engine needing rebuild. Lots of spare parts! Good runner. Test drove it. Looking forward to getting into this car. No plans other than make it reliable, road worthy and safe. Picked up in Victoria BC Canada. I will trailer it home next Saturday.
  3. 2 points
    The P15 is now back on the road and is as quiet as a new 1948! With the windows down I can't hear the engine above 40 mph. Total expenditure was less than $50 which included new gaskets, five new studs, a 3/8" drill/tap, the stud extractor, a tube of anti-seize, four bolts for the heat riser and all new nuts. The block-off plate for the heat riser came from my scrap box. Ten hours of labor working on a neat old car.......priceless.
  4. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    new way to use old stuff...

    this turned out pretty good....
  5. 2 points
    Don Coatney

    Engine builders

    As I understand it the only reasons the factory selected the 7:00 position was to make life easier for the mechanics in the field to have common ground to start with when doing tuneups. And as mentioned above to prevent the vacuum advance from making contact with the engine block. Military distributors took it a step further. The "tang" at the bottom of the distributor shaft that is flat on both sides of civilian distributors was modified adding a half moon on one side so the distributor could only be installed one way not two ways. They did this so when you are in a gun fight with bullets wizzing over your head and the engine craps out you can make hasty repairs in the dark and get out of Dodge.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Parked along the street when we stopped for lunch. Coalport, PA.
  9. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Battery keeps going dead

    The best way to find a battery drain is to place a test light between the battery and the cable....if the lamp lights, and all things are supposedly off....you have a short...open each circuit feed from the starter, solenoid or ammeter and ignition switch till the light extinguishes...take note that if you have an door activated compartment light to test and disconnect it first to prevent false reads. Keep in mind also you may have more than one short....place a piece of tape denoting the connection point and let dangle till the light is out...when the last lifted wire extinguishes lamp....go back and add each disconnected wire making sure the lamp stays off....this will tell in this is the only fault or if multiple...a buzzer in line will do the same thing if you need an audible alert...you can use both if you wish....many modern digital VOMs have built in audible alerts in the OHM test position. Once the faulty circuit is found your VOM is excellent for zeroing in on the cause...many are simple frayed wires, some are critter induced and sometimes the critter is you pinching a wire when working in and around wiring harness mounting accessories or components.
  10. 1 point
    Sam Buchanan

    New dash light bulbs---Bright!

    The engine instruments in my P15 have been fairly well lit but the speedo was extremely dark. The wiring diagram in the service manual shows a "speedometer light" but the only dash lights (beside key and high-beam lights) in my car are two bulbs located near the engine gauges. I checked and someone had already installed #63 bulbs which are brighter than the #51 bulbs normally installed. The following post from a thread last year got my attention: http://p15-d24.com/topic/47422-bright-dash-lights/?tab=comments#comment-503267 This poster found some specialty 6v bulbs that were designed for use in microscopes. They are 7 candle-power instead of the 63"s 3 candle-power. I decided to try them and the results are impressive. Not only is the speedo very visible but I actually found the feature where the speedo numbers change colors! Please excuse the blurry photo made while underway: Here is where I bought the bulbs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-1946-1947-1948-extra-bright-tail-light-bulb-63-replacement-6-volt-63/161410757417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I really like 'em! In case someone asks....I've already hot-wired the dash light switch located at the bottom of the dash....the bulbs are getting full voltage.
  11. 1 point
    Somewhere along Hwy 19A on Vancouver Island, BC, Canada after lunch on the way to the ferry to Powell River. Our P15-D24 bud 40Plyrod could elaborate. 'Twas his lead.
  12. 1 point
    TodFitch

    from the driver's seat and other images

    Since the topic is "from the driver's seat" and since I just got a setup I am comfortable with posting new videos to, here is some footage from last march that might be of interest: https://video.fitchfamily.org/videos/watch/0a9fd5e9-0501-4310-8981-d7370e2b4d4f
  13. 1 point
    40plyrod

    from the driver's seat and other images

    One more of mrwstory's car.
  14. 1 point
    40plyrod

    from the driver's seat and other images

    And one out the back.
  15. 1 point
    40plyrod

    from the driver's seat and other images

    Couple from the front seat of a '54 Oldsmobile on a recent cruise.
  16. 1 point
    Happy 4th, y'all!
  17. 1 point
    Spent the afternoon cleaning it up a bit and tinkering. Cleaned up the starter system contacts and grounds. The starter will be pulled, tested and rebuilt if possible. It was not turning very fast, even with a fully charged 6V battery. I was able to get it spinning quick with a 12V boost. Then the car would start. After a couple of those 12V shots , the momentary switch on the starter no longer turns the starter. Even with the starter clutch disengaged. I'll pull it and take it to to a local starter rebuild shop. If anyone is interested, I did a walk-around video this afternoon. https://youtu.be/O2L402Xe-6o
  18. 1 point
    2:30 am. Just outside my home town. Hiway closure. Serious accident. So we wait. Hopefully no major injuries. Pretty uneventful drive home. The tow truck performed exceptionally well. 15.8 mpg while towing. I’m happy with that. Several new people were met today as they continue to approach. Asking questions. What is it? What year is it? Etc. I look forward to the future with this car.
  19. 1 point
    Anyone know anything about this aftermarket bolt-in Firestone AM radio? I have never seen one before.
  20. 1 point
    Well we made it to pick up point. The rain let up. We got it running and up on the trailer...Almost. Died on the ramp with front wheels on the trailer. We were well equipped with a 12V winch mounted to the front. So we yanked it up and strapped it down. This is my first vintage car rescue with my Ram truck. I’m impressed. The Cummins gets the job done quite well. Waiting now at the ferry to get back to continental North America. We just may get back to Kamloops by mid-nite pacific time. So far so good!
  21. 1 point
    It looks fantastic. Did you restore it yourself? I’m hoping to build up a support group. Finding people who own these Mopars is great. I hope you’ll check back and follow my future posts about by 1938. The experience and tips from others will be very much appreciated.
  22. 1 point
    Keith, Your 1938 Plymouth looks really good,glad to hear you bought it. It's in good hands...Bonus - getting spare parts including the original engine and the cars history as well.😊
  23. 1 point
    Very nice. There was a 35 Plymouth 5 window coupe at the car show that I went to today. Had a 350 in it though. too bad.
  24. 1 point
    Todd B

    Coolant in the Oil

    I am a carpenter/cabinet maker with tons of experience and very little experience with mechanic work, so don’t take what I have to say to heart. But my experience with O’Reillys is that everything they have is crap kind of like Harbor Freight. It will work but if you need to depend on it on a daily basis it won’t stand up.
  25. 1 point
    Cyama

    1955 C series assessment

    I made a quick trip to the BBQ at Tim's on Saturday and met some great guys on this forum. They suggested I join and post some pics of the '55 that I am working on. I would like to get this truck on its feet, and looking for some help finding parts to complete it. Bumpers, tailights, and emblems as well as details like the horn button would be helpful. Resources to complete the interior would be a great help too! Driver quality parts are fine with me, since I just want to make it complete. The rear bumper doesn't have to be factory. The Barden bumper farmer style bumper is cool with me too. I would also like to get an idea if this truck has been altered. It seems fairly original, but I'm not sure about the spare tire carrier and and the V8 painting on the tailgate. Thanks!
  26. 1 point
    PT81Jan

    Oil Filter Flow

    Jocko, I assume that you have connected the filter correctly. Enclosed a picture to be safe there. The second picture shows details regarding the relief valve,how it works and opening pressure (sorry, picture copy is not of good quality) Since your engine has got a good oil pressure, I would check if the plunger is stuck. Also, as far as I know, there are different springs. Are you sure your engine has got the correct one installed ? There is also a little info about the Bypass oil filter system in the tech section -> http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html/ Just my thoughts, where I would start ... Jan
  27. 1 point
    Why spend money you might not need to spend? For all you know,the engine will be fine once you get it unstuck and it fires a few times under compression and blows all the rust away/ There are many,many fluids and methods you can use to unstick a stuck engine,but MY favorite involves brake fluid and ATF. Mostly because it works,and like me,it is cheap. Pull the head and the side covers and use a plastic hammer to close all the valves that will close. Leave the side covers off for the time being. Fill each cylinder with a 50/50 mix of brake fluid and ATF,and then screw in one of those fancy auto parts store "valve hold closed devices" people screw into the heads of modern cars to hold the valves shut. Or be like me and break the porcelain off an old spark plug,tap the hole,and screw a air fitting in the plug so you can plug your air compressor to it. Let your compressor pump up whatever it will pump up,and just sit there and wait until you start hearing "blub,blub,blub" sounds coming from the engine base. Once you hear those sounds,you know your rings in that cylinder will be getting the brake fluid/atf lube they need,and then move on to the next one that has closed valves. You may have to repeat the air pressure trick in some cylinders,but no big deal. Just be patient and let the lube and the air pressure do your work for you. Once you have them all done,hook a battery to your engine and "bump" the starter a few times to break them all lose. Once they are all loose and the engine starts to spin over,refill all the cylinders with ATF and pressurize them again to make sure no rings are stuck and they are all oiled. This is the point where I like to drain all the oil out of the oil pan,and refill the engine with really cheap 20 or 30 wt engine oil. Even the modern 0-20 oil will work and won't harm a thing because all you are going to do with this new oil is spin the engine over with the starter until it builds oil pressure,and then you are going to drain it all out and refill it with the proper 30 wt non-detergent oil anyway. Good idea to clean the oil filter housing,too. Once you get it spinning over and building oil pressure,readjust the valves and try to start it. I have started stuck engines using this method that had been sitting for decades,and been able to drive them with no problems. Just don't get in a hurry and try to use brute force on the crankshaft bolt. Let the starter do the work with gentle "bumps" that shock the rust loose.
  28. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Oil Filler Tube is Loose

    Expand it with a small exhaust pipe expander tool or a socket that's just a slight bit larger...work it just a little and keep checking the fit till it taps down into the block some what firmly. You can also roll a large diameter bar or pipe that just fits inside the tube and roll the oil fill tube diameter slightly bigger. Shown are different sockets and extensions that just barely fit into the tube and can evenly expand it slightly.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Yes, the upper port is in the oil galley. You'll see a couple other plugs along that ridge in the block. One is behind the starter and one just ahead of the distributor that may be feeding your oil pressure gauge. There may also be one behind the generator. the lower plug is the return to sump. This flows through the oil pressure regulator. If the oil pressure is low, and the valve is closed, the return to sump is also closed so that oil pressure isn't lost through the filter system.
  31. 1 point
    kencombs

    Thermostat Housing Problem

    Try this catalog: https://assets.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/resources/resource-library/catalogs/gates-molded-coolant-hose-id-guide_web.pdf Around page 117 or so is where the 1.75" molded hoses start. Double check your fitting OD against the id listings. Surely one of these has the size and bend you need. Have your local parts guy order that number and cut to length.
  32. 1 point
    JBNeal

    "Farmer fixes"

    I got a wild hair to kill 2 birds with one stone as I needed to visit the local locksmith, so I figured I'd get a key cut for the Spring Special since it didn't have one supplied by the previous owner. I carefully removed the ignition switch from the dash, and mr. butterfingers dropped it on the floorboards...that's when I noticed the cylinder had fallen out of the switch. Upon further examination, it appears that somebody took the pins out of the cylinder, and all ya needed to operate the switch was a used corn dog stick
  33. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    "Farmer fixes"

    I've heard others say that the home made bio-diesel will smell a bit like what it cooked.....I have no first hand on this.....but when out camping....perking coffee and fresh smell of bacon frying....two items that go together well...a morning worth getting up for...
  34. 1 point
    Radarsonwheels

    "Farmer fixes"

    I took about ten feet of bailing wire out of my 3 on the tree shift linkage...
  35. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    "Farmer fixes"

    I remember the old farm truck we had (55 Ford F200) back in the day had a simple hook and eye latch to keep the door closed. Apparently the latch didn't work and it was too troublesome to repair.
  36. 1 point
    Why don't one of you guys volunteer to be a club moderator? We also have members in NZ.
  37. 1 point
    Mortimer452

    Replacing rear main oil seal

    Got 'er put back together finally. Started it up and let it run for 10 minutes, lifted it back up and couldn't find a drop of oil anywhere. I'm happy to start driving it again! Decided to go with the factory recommendation of 30wt non-detergent oil. That is some thick stuff compared to Quaker State 10w30.
  38. 1 point
    R&D Dodge

    Valve guides, Spitfire

    Hello there.. To anyone interested my progress is a bit slow but moving forward. Valves out, one keeper dropped into oil pan, excited to remove pan in search of it being I will be able to scope out the lower end. Springs are a bit difficult to remove with guides in, I have pulled one, wondering if there is a simple procedure I am overlooking in removing. Getting ready to attempt to push guides out but apprehensive. The two center lower exhaust manifold bolts broke, and as luck would have it I then broke an easy out off in the first one I attempted to extract. Tried welding washer, then nut, etc. to no avail even after pre heating stud but couldn't get enough penetration into stud which nuts just kept breaking off. Lack of welding skills most probable issue... I was very very lucky I got the hole on center and drilled all the way through the stud. This was a trick I learned as a kid working on big trucks. I was able to take an air chisel and drive the broken portion of the easy-out through the stud then start over.. The bad is, the piece is still in the water jacket but I will try to recover it. De mounted 3 tires and re-mounted with decent used ones we picked up which had nice new tubes and flaps. Have four total, they were off an industrial air compressor with most of life being stationary where tires have started to dry rot and have the typical Michelin sidewall cracking, but flaps and tubes like new. Fun thing was I was able to have my oldest son at 16 change two of them after I showed him how. After 37 years I can still knock one apart in record time and fortunate enough to have my Dad's tire hammer and pry bars. If anyone wants a lesson I have one more to change... Thanks much to the several gentlemen who reached out in messages with tips and advice on the valve project. I have spent quite a bit of time researching the site and snooping around, appreciate the plethora of shared knowledge. So sorry to anyone currently affected by the many disasters currently going on. Very Truly, Doug.
  39. 1 point
    Wild Steve

    1950 Wayfarer Trans Fluid

    I recently found these two old training videos and they helped me better understand what's going on with the Fluid Torque Drive that's in my '52 Saratoga. You can't beat Tech!
  40. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    52 Dodge Pilothouse

    I don't think he will be able to convert to disc brakes easily on a 1-1/2 ton dodge. Autolite 295's or 306's will work fine in that old dodge. There is a data plate on the driver side door hinge piller. Take a good picture of it and post it here on the forum. That will help us help you! Bob
  41. 1 point
    MBFowler

    L- 6 PCV system revisited

    I used one from a MoPar slant six. Wipers still work fine, but my wolf whistle is weaker sounding due to the reduced residual vacuum. Mike
  42. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Removing Timing Chain

    Both of those chains have clearly visible sag and should be replaced. Here is what a new one looks like:
  43. 1 point
    P15-D24

    Removing Timing Chain

    Before your start set the engine up for TDC on #1. That way the timing marks on the gears will be correct. You will have to figure out a way to support the front of the engine. You need to pull the front motor mount to get the cover off. If your are going to replace the front plate you will need to pull the oil pan. (Bolt from the backside) (Don C or PA please confirm this) Replace both the gears and chain together. Unbolt the cam gear and you can pop it off with the screwdriver. New one goes on with a couple taps of rubber mallet. Crank gear will need a puller to remove. Slide new crank gear on without keyway, set, then drive in key. Job is way easier if you pull the radiator.
  44. 1 point
    Reg Evans

    Resurfacing Cylinder Head

    Here's a milling chart to give you an idea of how much milling required to reach a certain compression ratio.
  45. 1 point
    James_Douglas

    Fluid Drive Fluid

    For anyone running a fluid coupling... After a year of research as well as an analysis of some original MOPAR fluid drive fluid, I have developed a modern specification of what should be used in the fluid couplings. The original fluid was a pure-base mineral oil with a Saybolt Viscosity of between 100 and 150. The fluid had a Viscosity Index of greater than 80. The fluid had anti-foaming and anti-oxidation additives. It specifically did NOT have any seal swelling agents as these can attack the carbon-graphite seal and the copper in the bellows. This last specification eliminates all modern transmission fluids. After finding several formulas to convert Saybolt Viscosities to Kinematic Viscosities, it appears that the best match to the original specification is a ISO 22 or a ISO 32 oil. However, the ISO 22 is just below 100 Saybolt and the ISO 32 is much higher than 100 Saybolt. Based on a period Lubrication Industry article on fluid couplings that had the following admonishment: Contrary to popular supposition any attempt to use a higher viscosity fluid would actually reduce the torque transmitting ability of the coupling since torque-transmission is dependent upon a high circulation of fluid between the impeller and runner and is not caused by any viscous drag between the two. Based on the research, and discussions with several lubrication engineers, I think that an ISO 22 hydraulic oil with the proper additives and VI above 80 is a documented replacement for the original MOPAR fluid drive fluid. Anyone who wants a copy of my documentation, please drop me a email and I will send you a copy. Best, James
  46. 1 point
    Dave72dt

    leaks common on rebuilds?

    I think they'll all develop leaks but a fresh rebuilt shouldn't start with them. I've never known any leak to get better with time. The rear engine seal might if it's a rope seal and swells up some. Most live with it leaking some because of the time and expense to repair it is and no garauntee it won't leak as bad or worse afterwards.
  47. 1 point
    tysouthwick

    Bonneville Day 3

    You need more stickers they make you go faster. Its funny I live in utah but I have never been to the salt flats
  48. 1 point
    ggdad1951

    Bonneville Day 3

    I can't imagine what 1mph feels like! That is just so cool!
  49. 1 point
    grey beard

    Question for PCV System Owners

    My Pilothouse has really been running lousy. Today I removed my PCV valve - a big honkin brass affair that came with my system when I purchased it from VPW. I was surprised to see that it screwed apart. Sooooo, I took it apart and was surprised to see no rubber valve at all - just a small piece of metal and a spring. This thing basically amounted to a 3/8-inch air passage vacuum leak in my intaie, all this time. No wonder I had to run with the choke out to get any performance. Well, went to CarQuest, cause' they're closest, and susbsequentially picked out a smallish valve made fror "light Dodge trucks", their part #76-2549. Cost me all of $7 bukkz. Plumbed it up with some gas line hose and a few fittings, and what a difference! Runs like a compeltely different vehicle. PCV systems are wonderful on these old flatheads. They're just the berries for keeping a crankcase clean. But they have to be able to meter vacuum at different throttle positions. The system I purchased was from a military truck of unknown size. I just never even thought of pulling the valve apart to inspect it. Now I'm glad I did.
  50. 1 point
    48Dodger

    Measurement of rear end on 1/2

    Spring perches on a 1968 Super Bee 8 3/4 is 44 inches center to center. Spring perches on a 1950 PH Truck is 44 1/2. The big difference is the spring perches are on the bottom of a 1968 pass vehicle. The 50 Truck has the perches on the top. 1950 Truck axle's two top studs are 3 1/4 apart, the 1968 is 2 inches apart. The flanges on a 1968 8 3/4 are flat on top, the flanges on the 50 are round. the next 3 pictures are a 1950 orginal axle set-up The next 2 pictures are of a 1968 8 3/4 axle housing Next pictures are of a 1950 truck with a 60's 8 3/4 modified with the 1950 style perches put on top. 48D
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