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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/19/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    In the northern hemisphere it’s prime cruising season. Pandemic or not, we go out alone if needed, for a little cruise. Many of us wait all year for summer cruising, and its here right now. Where have you been lately? Post a pic. Share a story. We’d all love to see your car and hear about it! Tonight It was warm here. Overcast. After the sunset I felt the urge to go somewhere. Anywhere. I drove less than a mile to my mail box. Checked the mail...Nothing. Saw a photo op. Then took a “long cut” home around my neighborhood. The old dash lit up in the dark is comforting somehow. That was my quick cruise tonight. Let’s hear about yours. Pics please!
  2. 2 points
    pflaming

    Age 80, a new normal

    I’m there, 81 in September so best to say some thankyous. (1) Names very difficult but Plymouthy Adams, Tim Estrada, Casper 50, Bob Riding quickly emerge. (2) Quick, unexpected passing of friends and relatives. Lost two, one with a six month illness, the other a 60 day illness. (3) personal note: my health seems to be good, only two pills per day, eye sight is fine, no apparent heart or lung problems. But do have a severe hearing loss, I.e., cannot hear without my hearing aid, and now struggling with leg strength (4) forum gratitude : when I started 12 years ago did not understand intake vs exhaust manifold, , the three essentials for an engine to run, the difference between an engine and a motor, negative/ positive ground, body vs chassis. This forum taught me mechanical skills, personal tolerance, better respect for alternate views, religion, politics, and profanity are toxic, the means and value of internet friendships. Few things have been as enjoyable, rewarding, mental expansion as what I have enjoyed this past decade. So then, my unreserved, heartfelt gratitude to each and all. I trust this post is premature, but better that than never. Paul Flaming aka pflaming
  3. 1 point
    I think maybe it’s time I started a build thread for my 51 B3B. I’ve actually been a member of this forum (or it’s earlier derivatives) since the late 90s. I bought the truck in Hailey Idaho in 1996 and trailered it home to Lincoln Nebraska. Over the next couple of years I proceeded to dismantle the truck and started the rebuild process. By early 2000 I had a rolling chassis with engine and cab installed and all sheet metal painted ready for installation. It was at this point things sort of ground to a halt. I proceeded to change jobs (working overseas or a number of years) and then moved, with the truck still in pieces, from Lincoln to Dallas, then from Dallas to Little Rock Arkansas and finally to Richmond Kentucky. During the years from 2001 till now I’ve really not had the opportunity to work on the truck with the exception of a few sort periods of time. There were multiple times over the years I considered selling but just couldn’t bring myself to do sot. In 1999 the engine was rebuilt by a respected dirt track engine builder. It has been bored 0.060” over (with 3 cylinders requiring sleeves) and has a new 230 cam. Around the same timeframe I had the transmission rebuilt by a local shop along with the differential pumpkin. The frame was sandblasted and painted as was just about every component I touched. I built my own sandblast cabinet and small wall mounted paint booth, both of which have also made every move with the truck. I spent 2008 in Pasadena (on short term work assignment) and while there I fabricated a complete wiring harness using wire and connectors from YnZ while using modified diagrams that someone on this forum had posted. Also during that period I rebuilt two carburetors for use on the Offenhauser dual intake manifold that I’m installing. Over the intervening years I would watch for parts on ebay and elsewhere. I managed to come up with a NOS steering wheel, NOS floor mat, NOS fuel gauge, NOS temp gauge, NOS coolant heater valve, NOS rear bumper, NOS amp gauge, and NOS speedometer cable. I might have a few others but can’t think of them off the top of my head. Oh yeah, I think I have a NOS front bumper as well. So as it sits today the truck is a finished rolling chassis with cab and engine installed. All of the sheet metal has been leaning against the wall for years and is covered in dust and grime. The rolling chassis desperately needs to be hosed down and scrubbed clean. There are five new (in 2000) radial tires that probably have a grand total of 500 feet on them but will need to be replaced if/when the truck is ever ready to finally hit the road. When I bought the truck in 1996 I was able to drive it up onto the trailer in Hailey and drove it off the trailer in Lincoln. Since then the truck has traveled 2,711 miles and none of it under its own power! I still don’t have a much free time to work on the truck but I’m going to at least make the effort to tinker with it from time to time. The first step is to gather up all of the parts boxes and sort through them to see if I have the parts I’m supposed to have. I think that will be a good winter task. The pictures are from 2009 after it arrived from Arkansas getting ready to be pushed in to my new shop. You can bet I will be having lots of questions as time goes on. Anyway, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it 😁
  4. 1 point
    ggdad1951

    Pilot House B series part manual

    a copy to review can be found here for FREE http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/pilothouse.htm
  5. 1 point
    keithb7

    Hot (Running) L6 Valve Set Tools

    Today I got around the setting the valves on my '38. I stuck the wrenches in the hot running engine and set the valve clearance. It is do-able. However some tappets are difficult to access with the wrenches. For those who have done this several times, what custom wrenches are you using? I'd be interested to get myself set up. My '38 has a '54 engine. So the settings for my 54 engine are .008 intake and .010 exhaust. I set them until an 8 would go in the intake, but a 10 would not. A 10 in the exhaust but a 12 would not. Seems good. I can hear a small amount of valve ticking.I am ok with that. Better to hear a little then none at all they say. Any tips on tools is appreciated. Pic is after 500 miles with modern detergent oil. It was a fair bit cleaner than when I first when into the engine to clean out sludge back in March. It had been running on non-detergent SAE30 before. Dumping the oil and filter now to go with 10W40. Thanks, Keith
  6. 1 point
    Loren

    1947 Plymouth p15 drum brake upgrade

    I know everybody has an opinion on drums vs disc brakes. On some collector cars you have very little choice as to brake system improvements. Sometimes it's a challenge just to make them drivable. One of the things that has bugged me is picking a good improvement, then not being able to find the replacement parts or what they came off of originally. I've seen many posts about "What kind of rear end and brakes are these?" The neat thing about the Plymouths I know and love (1949-54) they use hydraulic parts that are readily available (reproductions of course) and are the same for all the MoPar cars. So if you can find a 1951 DeSoto 12 inch drum set up it's no challenge to repair or restore it and they really stop good. Being an old racer I've noted that drum brake cars race in a class of their own with other flatheads and 6 cylinders. Once you modify a car with disc brakes it runs with other modernized cars which includes OHV V8s. That may mean next to nothing for the vast majority of people but it is a consideration of mine. (example: La Carrara Pan Americana revival of the Mexican Road Race) On my Plymouth (a 1952 Suburban) I have gone out of my way to keep it all period MoPar (within 5 years update or backdate). The idea being that it is an example of what could have been done during the time it was considered a "late model" car. A Hot Rodder's Hot Rod of the 1950s. Cutting frames for better steering and brakes are only one step away from installing an SBC V8. When you do that it really changes the character of the car and takes away from the charm of it. For my money it would be better to let Detroit do the work and just order a new car. You'll get more for your money and one day in the future your kids will own a "collector car" that was once their Dad's. (think of what a nice Challenger will be worth in 20 years!) The Old Car hobby is all about having fun. Do what gives you the most enjoyment. I've been able to buy lots of highly desirable parts from guys who went the modernization route...cheap! So I do appreciate their version of the hobby. To say a disc brake conversion is easier, more effective and less expensive may or may not be true. Consider the many posts regarding "residual pressure valves" and "dual circuit master cylinders" on this site alone! If there is that much handwringing over disc brake conversions it does not seem easier and less expensive to my mad mind. Finding the right drums and backing plates isn't an engineering project. You're not changing the design at all. Just the size of the brakes. Part of the fun is the hunt!
  7. 1 point
    Sorry cannot see the sign even when enlarged, but I believe we will take your word for it! Looks like a Bad place to break down? Carry spares and tools? Lots of water? DJ
  8. 1 point
    Graduation pictures here too. I didn't think there would be much going on this year so I only insured the Plymouth for the day on my daughter and her date's prom (such as it was). Sure felt good to be out in the Plymouth. I took the longer way back home.😁
  9. 1 point
    We, my wife and I, tend to do mostly "Riding around in my automobile..............With no particular place to go." I am not very artistic so I don't take enough pictures. Yesterday I took this one as it sat in the driveway before we left for a "ride" so I could upload it here. Only the second picture this year. We drove around Prince Gallitzin State Park and took the long way home yesterday. Probably a 50 mile jaunt with a lot of picturesque scenery, and I didn't stop to take pics anywhere. Doh! There was a thread on here once about your car in front of..... I really enjoyed it, because it gave me a reason to take pictures. I love looking at pictures of the old cars, running, under construction, sitting, whatever condition, and I really miss Bob Drown's pictures of his and Cooper's adventures with his old Plymouth. May he rest in peace.
  10. 1 point
    I took delivery of my Canadian 1942 Fargo FL1 (WC) yesterday. She is fairly stock other than 15" rims and radials, plus 80's red velour covered bench.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    The old gems are looking good Ed. It must be nice to get them out after those frigid Minnesota winters😀 John R
  13. 1 point
    Waiting for the seats to be completed. No car shows in the area.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Front running lites as stock should be OFF with head lights ON. Running lights on with headlights on started 62 or 63. To make the front parking lights function as park and turn indicators swap the single terminal pig tail for a double one and use twin filament bulbs. Wire signal leads to the bright element wire. Same for rear if you want brakes and or signals at the rear also.
  16. 1 point
    Sniper

    New shop tool

    Saturday the son and I finished building a gantry crane to pull engines.
  17. 1 point
    Just got the front suspension rebuilt and buttoned up tonight. Don't believe the shop manual when it says Step 3 Align the steering knuckle support with the lower control arm and install pin. Screw on nut and torque to 110 lbs. Step 4 Install spring! Of course they don't tell you if you do step 3 before step 4, you will have to undo step 3, then do step 4, then do step 3! Got it! I guess the shop manual didn't care too much about getting the order right on assembly. Shop manuals were not written for DIY's, so you have to use common sense to avoid having to do the work twice.
  18. 1 point
    Andy, I used special Chrysler Miller tool C-608 today to install the new pivot bar and bushings. The tool is used for pushing the upper control arm out 1/16" because you have to torque the bushings on either side to 120 ft. pounds. That's a lot of pressure!!! I'm going to do the same thing to the lower control arm tomorrow, using tool C-594, and try to button it all back up again. I dont' remember what I actually paid for the rebuild kit, but is was something like $10 or $15, but that was back in the 80s. I'm glad I bought most of my parts back then rather than paying the exorbitant prices dealers want now for them. I like the idea that it's OEM Mopar parts and not a Chinese modern knock off.
  19. 1 point
    Marc..........if you paid $5.58 for that package they sure saw you coming......lol...........andyd
  20. 1 point
    Andy, I've got the really old Mopar control arm kits, so I think I'm good on most of the rubber grease seals.
  21. 1 point
    keithb7

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    Heat soak it the term used when the engine is shut off and left to sit. Quickly, everything bakes as there is no more circulating coolant moving heat away. Gas evaporating form the float bowl, and possible vapour lock in the fuel lines can be symptoms when heat soak takes it's toll. As @Worden18 mentions, you will see the temp gauge rise. This is prime time when you are most susceptible to problems as you attempt to restart the engine. That's been my experience.
  22. 1 point
    Worden18

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    5-9-20: Got my vintage Sears vacuum gauge in the mail today. It works just fine. I hooked it up to the threaded port on top of the intake manifold toward the firewall like one of the fellas mentioned in an earlier post. Started the car and let it fully warm up. The vacuum gauge read a jumpy 10-13". I was happy the reading was so poor, that meant I could improve it. I shut the car off and loosened the distributor hold down bolt. I also unscrewed the vacuum advance line. Started the car again. I advanced the timing and the vacuum reading moved in the direction of zero and the car sputtered. Wrong way. Retarded the timing... vacuum gauge maxed out around14-16" but was jumpy. Engine smoothed out. Tightened the distributor hold down bolt. Then I moved the gauge to the passenger side and began adjusting the idle mixture screw. I got the vacuum gauge to stay between 15-16". Things smoothed out significantly. Engine off. Vacuum advance line screwed back in. Distributor loosened one more time. Started engine again. Gently turned distributor to see where the gauge would even out now. Got it to stay between 15-16". Engine running probably about as smooth as I'm ever going to get it without replacing the carburetor in my opinion. Slight needle jump but acceptable. I was WAY off before on the timing and idle mixture screw setting. Picture is before I had the gauge hooked up.
  23. 1 point
    John-T-53

    Main Seal

    Hey Jim, It's possible to replace the rear main without completely pulling the crank, but I can't imagine doing this with the engine installed. Much easier to pull it. The photo below is of a 251, crank raised off the bearings about 1.5". This provided just enough clearance to work on everything. However if the crank is rusty at the seal location, you might need to polish it. "This may or may not help"
  24. 1 point
    Adam H P15 D30

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    Most of the Pertronix modules I have dealt with are garbage and eventually will leave you stranded with replacement parts days away. That said, I have seen them act exactly like you describe when they are on their way out. First indicator was the timing was all over the place, backfiring, popping mufflers etc. and eventual death. FWIW.... On Edit: Looking at the picture of your distributor cap, it clearly shows the coil is firing when your rotor is NOT lined up. Cut a hole in the cap next to a post and point your timing light at it, you will be able to see the improper timing. The rotor timing is different than ignition timing.
  25. 1 point
    ceng1

    Build Sheet

    Thank You! I see the correlation to the numbers above the left rows now. Any idea how to interpret the dots and other options? Is there a book or reference with a key code to interpret? I think it is close to original but you never now until you check all the details.
  26. 1 point
    Worden18

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    4-19-20: It's a chilly evening so I cranked the heater. 😊
  27. 1 point
    Worden18

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    4-19-20: Out for a quick cruise for a good purpose...to get ice cream! - Warming up in the driveway -
  28. 1 point
    RobertKB

    1938 Dodge RC Pickup Build

    Restoration Specialties is great to work with. I have always had great service from them ordering specialty parts for at least four different projects. A company well worth supporting. I have no affiliation with them, only great parts and customer service.
  29. 1 point
    In my searches the 11/16" diameter was always the show stopper. Thanks for doing all this leg work. As for colors, I bought some Monroe 66858 shocks off of ebay and they were bright yellow. Since I could only get two good ones off of ebay I bought two more from Amazon and they were gloss black! Now I have to decide which pair to paint, right now I'm leaning towards black Brad
  30. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies. CHS did reply to my request for information and was kind enough to send me some information on worm replacement and the sector roller replacement. Below is the written description for the roller removal: Tips to replace the roller on a sector sector with roller. 1) Removing the used (worn) or old roller. For this there are 2 possible methods: a) Using an oxyacetylene flame torch, heat one end of the roller pin so that the end is heated to a malleable point, immediately after hit this end of the pin with a punch and a suitable holder in order to remove the pin. Attention !!! Do not heat the sector axis. b) With a bank boring machine and an integral HSS drill (approx dia 11 mm), mill a cone or center in one of the ends of the pin of the roller, in such a way that the riveted end thereof is weakened. After this hit this end of the roller pin with a punch and an suitable holder to remove the roller pin. NOTE: all these procedures must be carried out with the appropriate personal protection elements, such as safety glasses, gloves, etc. 2) Installing the new roller. Now with the sector shaft without the roller, proceed to clean it and evaluate if it is necessary to grind or polish its cylindrical parts where the bushings work. Also the internal flat faces of the head of the sector shaft must be inspecting in order to see if it is necessary to grind or polish and keeping its parallelism. With the sector shaft in good condition and clean, measure the width between plain surfaces of sector shaft head in order to adjust the thickness of the thrust washers (side spacers) in such a way that the total width "washer + roller + washer" can be placed on it sliding and without axial clearance. Both thrust washers must be the same thickness. NOTE: All our roller kits include 2 thrust washers (side spacers) approximately 0.1 mm thicker than the original ones. This allows adjustment according to the wear of the internal faces of the sector head. Once the roller assembly, washers and pin have been placed, the riveting or fixing of the pin-pin must be carried out on the sector axis. If you do not have the specific riveting machine (Press Type Spot Welding Machine), there are 2 possibilities: a) Fix it with a little welding point on each end of the roller pin or b) Heat and rivet one end at a time of the roller pin, with the same torch and punch that you used to remove it. They also sent me a brief description and pictures show how they remove and replace the worm gear. It seems to be a pretty straight forward approach. Our method to mount the worm on the steering shaft, is the following: -Use an hydraulic press that allows to place the length of the column. -Re-condition and check the diameter of the shaft where the steering worm will be mounted. (Surface condition and dimension) -Usually this diameter should measure 18.84 / 18.82 mm for our steering worms. -Protect the thread of the steering wheel nut with a long nut. Very important : In order to avoid the buckling of the shaft. we protect the shaft with a common gas pipe a little bigger in diameter but shorter in length.
  31. 1 point
    JBNeal

    1948 B-1-B-108 BUILD THREAD Papa's Dodge

    A decade of road-testing is plenty... Those who think a formal education is a crowning achievement in one's life are sorely mistaken. Restoration of a unique antique automobile is THE crowning achievement...okay, getting married, having children, blah-blah-blah all that spiritual stuff is important too (and just as expensive). What started as a photo-op for a diaper-clad red-head on the bumper of a '48 Dodge that had been in the family since new has progressed to the next big step of knocking the rust off and making the beast shiny again. I got it running after ten years of scraping cash & time together while blundering through high school & an engineering degree. Family squabbling ensued as the spoiled side of the family assumed this heirloom was 'given' to me in tip top shape and much peace-making diplomacy had to be pursued. Working through the Texas motor vehicle legal red tape of documented ownership was an exercise in patience & learning how to read disgruntled state employees. Debugging nagging carburetor & electrical problems was a good polishing of practical engineering fundamentals. Finding repair parts learned me real good on how to get creative with existing materials and a limited budget. In summary, many disciplines had to be mastered to bring this piece of American steel back to life. Ten years ago, I got the '48 on the road, licensed, insured & inspected. Offended many folks when they offered to purchase my buggy for a miniscule fraction of the $$$ I had invested in it & I turned them down flat. I didn't want to do any cosmetic work until I had all the bugs worked out, and that finally happened last year when I replaced an intermittently foul-running carburetor with a NOS find from eBay and resolved the hot-starting problems. Didja know that even if the original big gauge cables look decent on the outside, that the indiviual strands corrode over time & build up a crippling resistance in the starter circuit? I sure didn't until I took some advice from the guy down at the starter & alternator shop. The bias-ply tires are so worn now that they won't pass inspection, and it's been 10,000 miles on the rebuild, so everything has to be gone through per the shop manual directions. And the frame is bent from one of great-grandpa's three accidents he had before grandpa took the key away from him at the ripe old age of 90 back in '68. The bent frame has really showed up in the tire wear. Oil leaks are purt'near everwhar cuz of lack of properly located sealant in the motor & transmission areas. A couple of brake lines are weeping from inaccurate flaring technique. And I suspect the rear axle vent is plugged because of the gear oil that came out of the grease plug. So I reckon it's time to take the next step and make Pappa's Dodge respectable. Doing research on this forum has really straightened me out on a lot of li'l odds & ends. Such as Wix 51010 oil filters that I've been using ain't right. The 218 Plymouth (!) that no one remembers having been swapped out has been running this filter since way back, cuz Dad remembers having to pull that messy perforated coffee can out when he was learning how to do his mechanic'n. There is a PCV system available for this motor, thanks to the P15-D24 downloads & member contributions. Setting the brake shoes can be done with a fabricated tool; bleeding the brakes can be done effectively by one person. And I can even jump start the 6V system with my Dodge diesel by simply disconnecting the charging circuit. Let this be fair warning that I may be contacting a few of y'all for some technical information from time to time. I haven't committed this site's contents to memory yet, but I've read a majority of the threads & taken several pages of notes, cuz nobody likes to be asked a 'stupid' question. But I would like to thank all who have posted so far for providing a fountain of information. When I did the initial mechanical restoration, I took plenty of pictures. Unfortunately, they were Polaroids that have since disappeared through a collection of mishaps. But I will be recording as much as I can this go around to go along with the documentation I've been collecting. btw, the '49 1 ton went through a mishap last year thanks to Three-Tooth Timmy at the local tow truck establishment. Long story short, I have to replace the drag link, the steering box mounting bracket, and tie rods. Comparatively easy to accomplish... Thank y'all again!
  32. 1 point
    PT81Jan

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    Location: Very South of Germany A quick prestory to the pictures ... Today I went to the Lake to go for a walk with the dog and taking some pictures of my 1939 PT ... But first a quick jump to the last weekend. Winter suddenly has stopped, rain had washed away the salt from the roads over night. I went to the lake early in the morning. Sun was just before rising up. I could see a yellow orange stripe along the horizon, super clear water, swans slowly waking up. What a panorama !!! From our side of the shore you can see the mountains of the Swiss Alps, if the sky is clear. That morning they where super clear, white shining snow on top. Simply perfect ! Unfortunately I neither had a camera nor my PT with me. So I decided to come back the next weekend ... Today morning , Feb. 23rd, 2019 something between 6.00 and 6.30 a.m. Knowing that there is just one access to the shore and it is strictly forbidden to enter it with a vehicle, I arrived a bit too early. Drove in with a slight bad conscience. Nobody was there. But today, no mountain view, just a grey haze. No swan just some scattered ducks. No orange horizon. Damned. Since I took the risk to get serious trouble, I yet decided to take some quick shots with the camera and quickly sneak away off of the shore. Jumped into the truck, wrooom, rear wheels scrabbled in the sand, ooops. A bit less throttle, but too late. Rear wheels went deeper and deeper .... then a man walked by, he was looking a bit wrathful / surprised. I probably like a caught little boy. But hey, that was a colleague from work !! I quick explained my situation, he just: ohooohhh. Now to make it short. He rushed to his home, came back with his car and a rope. (Still nobody else came to the shore - biiig trouble, if the sheriff or a conservationist would have appeared). Hooked in the rope and towed me out of my awkward situation. Yesss !!! I asked him what he wants to get, but he did refuse ... "hmm, maybe a ride in the PT !?" he said. So yes, I gladly will take him to a tour along the lake !!! So here some adventure pics I shot, although they are certainly not perfect: Was it worth it ? For me YESSS !
  33. 1 point
    JBNeal

    How to Guide Miller Brake Tool

    How'bout taking a 1x4, cutting it with a jigsaw so that it fits inside the drum, then cutting a hole at its center so that it can rotate on the shaft...then ya could drive a bent nail in the end of the board to act as the gage tip...easy to make, easy to adjust, easy to replace if lost or damaged...
  34. 1 point
    You have to respect a man who rolls in wearing his cover-alls and drinks the champagne of beers (old school long neck) . Mr. Bosker is a scholar and a gentleman.... and the owner of a beautiful truck
  35. 1 point
    52b3b Joe

    B3B sheet metal alignment question

    I used steel shims everywhere. I made some of them, and I used some from a body shim pack I got at harbor freight (part #67585). I also used washers a lot. I forgot to mention that I had to shim my cab up and down to get it right too. My frame was very bent and out of square when I bought the truck. I got it pretty close to the factory measurements, but I know its not perfect. As far as the rubber mounted parts, I used an old truck mud flap too. I cut them in squares like the original ones were, but added steel shims as needed.
  36. 1 point
    dpollo

    Shifter won't go into reverse

    That is a simple fix. The link between the shifter and the transmission has two rods. One transfers the motion of the lever up and down, (or clockwise and anti clockwise.) The other transfers the motion of the lever being pulled toward the driver. It is this rod in your car which needs to be shortened slightly. The adjustment will be found either at the steering column end or at the transmission. If you tighten it up too much you will have first and reverse but no second and high . For reasons of the angles involved, it is always reverse which gets difficult. I learned this at the end of a country lane in my dad's car and with a "date"....... so it is a lesson which has endured for 52 years now.
  37. 1 point
    BigDaddyO

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    The same guy owns all three. He like to bag 'em and update the running gear. He's getting ready to put glass in the Dodge. Doubt if it's gonna see paint. I'd still rather see it like this than rotting away or going to the crusher. From the owner; "1956 us mail truck last year before jeeps got the contract. S10 frame 350 chevy now".
  38. 1 point
    rkldesign

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    1950 Dodge Route Van, finished up the project and have been driving it for the last year. What a hoot it is.
  39. 1 point
    JBNeal

    1951 B-1-D-126 BUILD THREAD Flatbed Red

    Flatbed Red Rebuild For Farm Truck Use... As stated earlier, this '51 has been drafted for farm work and will need a li'l work done to get it ready to haul water from a well at the bottom of the hill. This truck was seen earlier and has changed owners a couple of times since being dragged out of a barn in Kansas. The truck is mostly complete, riding on 6.50x16s oddly enough, and the flatbed has one floorboard that will need replacement. The sideboards are kinda shot, but the bulkhead is in decent shape. The pinstriping on the bed sure seems fancy for a work truck, but I've seen this done on some modern trailers so maybe it's a selling point for higher quality
  40. 1 point
    bwengler

    Welcome to the Pilothouse forum...

    Excited to join the forum to provide assistance and ask for advice as needed. I recently acquired a family hand-down. My uncle gave me a 1948 Dodge Pilot House Truck that has been stored in his garage since 1977. He purchased it used in 1970 & drove it until he backed her in the garage. Thirty Eight years later, she came out and moved to her new home. I have started the search for parts, looks like I will need a few. I remember driving this old girl when I was 16 (Long time ago). I put a battery in it the night before and she cranked over with a sputter and I stopped. The gas tank & fuel pump is out. Veryfying the engine isn't locked up. Full steam ahead on a full restoration. I expect this project will take a couple years. I don't retire until the end of next year. Then she can get full attention. Enjoy a couple photos. Later!
  41. 1 point
    I have no idea what strength it takes to hold a secret and a plan for 23 years. Last month I was hours from buying a running driving 37 D5, sight unseen when I found it'd been sold. Since February, I nearly went to Maine 3 times for another one but couldn't break out 3 consecutive days from work. Last eve, we stop out at the local corner Country Store. Chatting over the deck of the Versa about the weather, the new gas pumps, sipping Cokes. Like we've done for a lifetime over the hood or deck of innumerable cars and trucks. Dad says, You still own the Dodge. Don't be angry. I bought it back the day you sold it. Jim is going to howl when I tell him that ya finally know the secret! I didn't sleep much last night. When I did, I dreamt the kids eye view through the passenger side of the open windshield, a flying Ram trailing an expanse of Midnight Blue.....
  42. 1 point
    pipebomb

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    37 dodge md20 i have been tinkering with for a few months.
  43. 1 point
    exactly as greg says above, that is the correct way to jump start a 6-volt vehicle from a 12-volt source. hook the cables to the 12-volt battery, and the other end to a ground on the dead vehicle, and to the starter post (i'm pretty certain it makes no difference which goes to which, and that i've hooked them up both ways and been able to jump my 6-v pos-grnd tractor using my 12-v neg-grnd car). make certain that the "dead" vehicle is in neutral, and that the ignition switch is "on". not a good idea at all to connect directly to each battery with the difference in voltage.
  44. 1 point
    Make sure to leave as much materal as possible. I also use trim adheasive to keep the material attached firmly to the rollers. I would think if you cut too much material off you could weld the roller to the shaft. ,,, Like I always say "If an old Chevy Rep can do it anyone can".
  45. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Control Cable Rebuilding

    You got me going on this cable operation and soldering. I dug through my soldering supplies and used regular 50/50 lead free solder with regular liquid soldering flux. Wire wheeled the cable housing real good and used a piece of scrap 20Ga. steel as a test. I properly tinned the cable housing first, then the small scrap piece of steel both real well.Then just soldered the two together. I got a real good strong joint. I would have done this to a truck cable but don't have any I want to screw up with this practice test. The whole solution is to clean the parts real well and tin them first seperately. Just enough heat with a small propane bottle Bernzomatic torch. Worked well for me. I fI can latert I will try a sleeve and cable out of a junk truck. Bob
  46. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Control Cable Rebuilding

    I have had to carefully braze the cable and housings. Solder like you say is iffy. Crimping in a professional way is the best if you can do it so it looks factory. Bob
  47. 1 point
    Merle Coggins

    Interior product that lasts.

    I honestly don't remember exactly how I installed mine. But I don't remember having much issue. The headliner slips in over the windshield header. Mine was a tight fit after the insulation and everything. And I recall that the rear came down just past the button clip holes. The rear panels went over the top of the headliner. I also don't remember how I lined up and drilled the holes, but however I did it, it worked.
  48. 1 point
    JBNeal

    1953 B-4-B-116 BUILD THREAD Spring Special

    An interesting detail popped up while doing the initial inspection. Shown is the paint detail on the cab that denotes a SpringSpecial. But also shown is a plug in the bed fender for the hole that accesses a grease fitting for the rear leaf springs. It looks factory installed on both sides, but haven't ever seen these before, so I don't know if it was a SpringSpecial detail or a model year detail. I'm not sure why this truck has the center bumper guard in place of a license plate. The bumper guard is a B-1 / B-2 era detail, but this is on a B-4, complete with oval head bolt. From the stories I've been told and from what I've seen of the truck, this SpringSpecial was used for work.
  49. 1 point
    Jim Shepard

    Fender welting bead

    While it is true the Pilothouse trucks have no beading/welting, they do use various materials between metal to metal locations. The "nose" section and front fenders have a rubber seal on each side. If you check the parts book on the club website, you'll see this seal on page 12-1 (Fenders and Sheet Metal), Part 12-02-11. This is no longer available; however it is easily made using the appropriate thickness of sheet rubber. In doing my restoration, I simply laid the fender nose down on the sheet and traced the outline. The "beadding" between the rear fenders and the bed can be duplicated using 3M Strip-Calk or similar material. Any materail that squeezes up can be cut off with a razor. At the ends of the running boards where they mount to the fenders there are "anti-squeak" seals (Part 12-02-15). They are no longer available but can be made from the same sheet rubber as with the nose piece. There is also a rubberized welting material mounted to the fender extensions (Part 12-04-36). I was able to locate a similar product and it is simply pop-rivated to the extension panel. The "filler" material grey beard mentioned is available from Roberts and others. If you check my album on the club site, I think I have photos of most of this posted.
  50. 1 point
    grey beard

    Fender welting bead

    Pilothouse trucks use no fender beading anywhere. The front (grille) panel seam to the front of the front fenders should have sealant or black tape sealer inside the seam to keep the splash from coming through onto the paint. Rear fenders have no bead at all, although some folks add it when they do restorations. The top rear edges of the front fendrs - where they meet the cab - have a thick rubber filler piece. Otherwise, no beading on Pilothouses. Check out Mr. Bunn's hook and factory photos. JMHO
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