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This is what I used with no relay, have been in use several years with no issues.

Get the right grease, none of which mentioned is it STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SL2 or Echlin ML-1 Lubriplate 130-AA is only good to 170F. Not too hard to image that temp getting exceeded and causing the lube to fail. SL-2 and ML-1 are rated in excess of 400F

One relay powers BOTH low beams and the other relay powers BOTH hi-beams. Are you installing LED headlights? The halogens I referenced would be a much better option. But if you insist on LEDs you probably don't need relays due to their low current draw.

we did the same thing with the 61 Plymouth

I would think that your wiring for your turn signals is messed up somewhere. I think you are going to have to use your meter and trace wires checking grounding. I remember My dad had a 1960 Chrysler Saratoga when I was a kid (I loved that car styling, if you turned on the radio, turn signal, flashers and put your foot on the brakes, the radio would come on without any key.

Feel like I'm being drug into the modern century kicking and screaming .... My little bit of experience while recently wiring my truck .... I installed a horn relay. Then my wife car messing with the relays on it. Relays are like a magic trick and will do many things ... there is a multitude of ways to wire them according to what you want to do. I found there is many wire diagrams on the internet to follow and simply pick the correct one that matches your current project. One relay for both headlights. Just one circuit running 2 lights and 1 relay is all I think you would need.

white lith if I remember. Water pump as well

Thermostat housing and water jackets in the head take up much of the area of the no. one piston area. It might cause a weak point to induce cracks in the head. Joe Lee

Back in the day, I lubed the points by putting a dab of grease on the back side of the rub block. That provides a 'flow' of grease. As the block wears it also exposes/transfers a little lube to the cam.