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Bernbaum and others are selling a modern industrial fluid drive coupling reseal kit...eliminates the graphite seal ring...substitutes a hardened steel seal ring as used in dozer rollers and misc. heavy equipment. Also a sleeve instead of the copper bellows seal. Similar design to late the 1950 and later fluid drive couplings used in MoPar cars. Should work fine. The kit will not be easy to install unless someone has experience and good tooling. If the FD inner hub sealing surface is damaged (pitted, worn) the re-seal kit won't fix the leak. Then the FD coupling will have to be replaced or cut open for maching work and a front bearing.$$$$ Balancing of cut open and re-welded FD's can be a huge vibration problem. Sadly there are not many shops left who do this repair job with 100% compentence. But first...be 100% sure the FD coupling is leaking between the clutch driven plate and the coupling housing...not the rear main seal. Usually these couplngs start leaking because of a cracked carbon seal ring and or crack in the copper bellows.

Some dexterity required with the U-bolts. Remove the nuts, and the U-bolts are free to drop wherever they want. Reinstalling the U-bolts may seem to require three hands, but is doable with two. BTDT (been there, done that - did I just invent this, or has it been in existence since telegraph days, like LOL?)

VINTAGEPIC: saw this shiny Woody Power Town Wagon circled by gawkers on the internets

lot of negative talk here but for sure, the older cars unlike the new designs do not have crumple zones built it to sacrifice the frame and outer structure of the car to save the occupant. However that being said, if you are installing belts common sense applies....if at all possible, do incorporate 3 point belts and make good use of the shoulder strap. These are not that hard to install in the older car if you buy the right model belts....I have no aftermarket brand that I would recommend here. I also do not care for the most commonly referred to brand cheap washers. I also suggest you take a good in depth assessment of your older cars metal before any install. I use donor set ups for my cars and have never had to crash test them, but I feel more than comfortable they will do the task if called upon. At least at one time the design was tested. You have never seen the NHTSB issue a statement saying at x year change a belt. Some calls are made after an accident however and a rebuild of the car. IF you do go to the donor belts, just be careful the vehicle you glean them from were never exposed to the elements while in-op with broken glass or missing doors allowing the elements in, again, common sense.