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So meet Big Ben. That's what the former owner called him so I will continue the name. 1952 B3-GA. while my 1953 B4GA is still a project it's gonna take me a good while to sort out the rust. This 1952 is from Idaho and doesn't have a bit of rust. I'm tickled with it. Engine is a industrial Chrysler 251 clearly a replacement but the former owner did a rebuild . It seems to run well. This will also be a fun project as there are a few things to sort out, but I can drive and enjoy it in the meantime.

Mine has been leaking, worse and worse, to the point that a couple weeks ago I topped it off and it was all running out on the ground. Yes, I remembered reading of the bolt trick, and was tempted...only to be able to drive it to the mechanic. I couldn't bring myself to do it, and the rollback came this afternoon. I am curious how the Prest-O-Matic would behave with direct-drive. Lacking the tools to reseal it myself, I located a shop that says they can handle it. I'll be reporting my results here on the forum. Another temptation was to buy a used unit; my digging turned up a couple available for sale. But for the effort involved, I might as well go with new seals.

I tried to track down as much as possible to see what has been offered up on the subject of adjusting the valves on the flathead 6. Setting aside all the suggestions for solo numbers, hot or cold, stopped or running, gloves or salve, I came up with the following, FOR THOSE READING THIS THREAD, USE THE RECOMMENDED GAP FOR YOUR CAR'S YEAR THE PROCESS IS CORRECT AND ACCURATE THIS IS A NEW IMPROVED IMAGE

they figure Dodge owners are smart enough to color within the lines.....?

I spent 11 months fighting with mine and trying different things, in the end Heating he pivots for five minutes(approximately) with a propane torch then working them back and forth with a pair of vice grips did it. I then lubricated the pivots with dry silicone lube. The cowl vent now works like a charm!

Yikes! I didn't aim to kick a hornet's nest here, but thought it would be useful for folks if I updated this thread. My reasons for doing this are sound (see the beginning of this thread if you're wanting to know them) and are the best solution for me. Lots of ways to skin the cat. Thanks all for your opinions and help...you've been very helpful and kind over the couple of years I've hung out here. ~martin

I wonder how many fluid drive cars were parked over the years, and left to rot, because of leaking fluid drive units that owners couldn't afford to repair? How many clutch jobs ballooned into major jobs when the FD seal was damaged during removing and replacing a transmission? How many of those cars could have continued on with something as simple and cheap as a bolt in the fluid drive to keep them on the road? Maybe not too many, I don't know, but I wonder. I have seen cars parked for much lesser reasons, and then father time took over and destroyed the vehicle before anyone got around to fixing it right. Just how often was this band aid applied back in the day? We will never know, but it is the kind of thing I seem to enjoy thinking about. Just another intriguing aspect, to me, of old cars.

Thanks,I've seen that and it was helpful but not for the removal. I finally got it out. The key was to wind it back up and use the roller arms to manipulate it off the bottom roller then twist it around to get the crank shaft out. A real pia.

yes I have the fresh air housing also, however only the heater on the passenger side. The other was never installed. I assumed that the fresh air package was going to have to be removed. I have the interior completely removed so I can lay on the floor and get to everything fairly easy. I guess I am looking for information on the attachment points for the fresh air duct work.

Pushing down the starter pedal is easier than the clutch pedal... Try a Chevy or GMC stomp pedal of the same era...much harder to operate than the Dodge. I'm fortunate I can still push the stomp starter pedal on my 413 six in my DT easy enough.

There's a good MTSC filmstrip from 1952 just on the subject of glass in these cars. Worth a look! https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1952-volume-5-12-windshield-and-rear-window-service/

The oldest trick in the book and one people used to carry in their glove box in the event of a seal failure is to use a single bolt. What you do is get a bolt the same size as the fluid coupling filler hole. Then you rotate the inner turbine until you see one of the holes line up with the filler hole. Then you put the bolt in so that it goes into that inner turbine hole. I know of one person that drive it for years like that. You are correct on the clutch issue. If using it in the hills, you will be going through clutches a lot more often as the fluid drive clutch has a lot smaller surface area. I have been using the "Dodge" arrangement for 15 years. The hills of San Francisco, going to and coming from Lake Tahoe, and the freeways in between. I did switch the front to disc brakes about 10 years ago. Given that my car weighs more than most, and I never had any issues with hills, I think your concerns may be a little to critical. I would suggest hitting a bone yard and seeing if you can get another fluid coupling out of a car that does not look like it was leaking. Swap it in and see how it works for a while in your situation. I can tell you that in a pinch in the dirt, I like the fluid coupling as it will ease out nice in soft soil. On a hill you also don't have to worry so much about the back roll either. James