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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/26/2023 in all areas

  1. I found this "Drive Report" article in the "Special Interest Autos" Dec '82 issue, now called "Hemmings Classic Cars" magazine. Looks like the authors put 'er though her paces! Their only suggestion for improvement was "Probably the only thing that would have made the Suburban more useful was the addition of rear doors" 1982 SIA Article P17_P18 Suburbans.pdf
    3 points
  2. Marc the questions here about oil pools inside the valve covers reveals that you really should to be doing more reading. Researching. Your understanding of these engines appears limited. The oil pools are a very basic foundational level topic. Think about all the various ways oil can enter into the cylinders. There really aren’t that many ways on a flathead engine. There is no oil pressure up in the head area where the spark plugs are. There are no valve stem seals. How then could oil get up there? Ideally you’d be able to answer this. If not, definitely do more reading and research. Asking for quick answers here may get you a solution but you likely won’t gain any understanding. You really should strive for deeper level understanding. You’ll struggle to get that from a social media site such as this. I am carefully not trying to sound pretentious here. I’m really trying to help you by guiding you to opening massive doors for yourself. Once you get your car running and driving you’ll benefit tremendously by having a good grasp of the basics. Then you can and will, be able to troubleshoot and fix your car literally on the roadside, quickly.
    2 points
  3. This fitting is still used for water heater pilot lights. My local hardware store stocks them
    1 point
  4. I sure hope you do not think I'm offended @Sam Buchanan You offer a very valid opinion which I value. My opinion is @Sam Buchananschooled me on electrical connections for Hot Rods. I thought I knew what was best .... Sam comes around and explains what he does for aircraft ..... I'm eating crow. I thank Sam for teaching me. How many books are required to read to learn about the differences of copper stranded wire, & proper connections & proper uses for different applications? I love @sniper opinion also .... I remember when I was a apprentice finish carpenter. We were building a curved maple rail for a staircase. I was grinding in a cat's ass joint ... I asked Doug the best way to do this .... He got pissed and exclaimed it took him 40 frigging years to learn this ... why should he teach me? Me: ... You paying me by the hour boss, you can show me or pay me... your choice. ... He showed me. ... He growled while doing it. People today have learned many new things from standing on the shoulders of our ancestors. Do we imagine we moved from using a latrine to using a indoor bathroom without sharing knowledge? C'mon @Sniper, share with the kid your info on the cabin filter .... He can then use his brain to work on bigger issues .... He would also learn about having a back up plan. We all learn something.
    1 point
  5. A twelve pack and a sawzall. Behold the Plymouth Plaza pickup!
    1 point
  6. I will add that people learn in different ways. ..... I quit school in the 8th grade, I was wasting everyone's time .... I never could learn much from books. Although I did enjoy reading novels ,,,, not anymore. I have a couple books on my truck, recently I had a problem removing a 1/2 moon key ... my book did not show the key. A great man here shared his book & it showed the key. My point is, you read one book & you get one opinion. .... May not be the best opinion or even a correct opinion .... but you get it. Today's world with the internet & information sharing .... imho is far superior then just reading a book. You ask a question, and almost instantly you get several opinions and solutions. It is almost like reading several books on the subject. The conversation is almost like sitting around a table & sharing experiences .... Then we are talking decades of combined experience. .... Everyone learns something. May only be that the one sitting over there has mental issues .... but we all learn something. I personally like everyone's questions & opinions, with this community you never know where the conversation will go, or what you will learn. I also respect the opinion of the others that say go read a book.
    1 point
  7. If you need a spare screw I know where to get one
    1 point
  8. I also want to thank @sniper for the link. I ordered the 84" version this morning for my truck. Getting my list knocked down. Still need a E-brake cable Then can burn in the floor pan. May as well take advantage of the easy access while I have it. I have mixed feelings about @LeRoy .... Thought I was finished with my speedometer .... Now thinking I may need to pull it back out & do a better job ???
    1 point
  9. The OReilly version of the ATP Y804 is a Pioneer CA3002. Thank you sniper
    1 point
  10. Mark I have a spare from ‘47 Dodge. I will send it just need address.
    1 point
  11. Looks to me like the clutch is out of adjustment, not the linkages. Or, the clutch could be kaput altogether. After all, the clutches do go out on these cars. The car not seeming to have power can be attributed to the clutch as well. Actually, diminishing then no power (assuming the engine is running as it should) is symptomatic of progressing clutch problems, not linkages, especially given how you described your issue.
    1 point
  12. 83 inches long https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=65605&jsn=487 Y804 is 63 inches long
    1 point
  13. No issues, I think the problem is loose valve clearances more than anything else. I am contemplating getting a leak down tester.
    1 point
  14. Marc: Attached below is a picture taken from my Chrysler small parts catalog. The picture with the special nut and bubble fitting is an original brass fitting. So this is what you are looking for to help seal the oil pressure gage in your car. Rich Hartung
    1 point
  15. Marc: The issue is that there is a special connector that screws into the back of the oil guage and basically it has a bubble flare fitting. I did a posting on this issue several months ago. The thread pitch if I remember correctly is a 27 pitch thread and is not a flare fitting. Check your parts book for the fitting and let me know the part number. This special fitting and connector was used by alot of the dodge trucks into the 50's. Very hard to get this part. Rich Hartung
    1 point
  16. Just got a new shift linkage grommet and went looking on into for adjusting the shift linkage correctly, Thanks sniper!
    1 point
  17. I know about them... You don't want to put that switch assembly together wrong...it's a delicate assembly.
    1 point
  18. I know many guys don't know what I'm talking about, so I took some pics. The first pic shows the broken 48 piston on the left and the 49 or 50 piston on the right. I put the one on the right into my carb. I think it will work. Marc. o
    1 point
  19. Yesterday I attended the indoor swap meet called AutoMania that was run by the Carlise Swap meet owners. Well attended. Everyone just wanted something to do. I return with several good finds: Starter brushes for my 1939 Desoto 2 boxes for $5 NOS still in the box with all the parts and gasket the 1935-50 Front Tailpipe support. $5 Two parts manuals for cars from 1925-33. One by Eaton springs and the other by Fel-pro oil gaskets and retainers. $5 each Two sets of salt and Pepper Shakers that had a Desoto Dealership stamped on them. $10 Still in the original packaging the tool that is used to remove the Welsh or Freeze plugs from the engine block. $5 Might not have to ever use the tool but for $5 why not. The guy had about 20 of them in a box My winter project is to scan the two catalogs into my computer. Slowly getting more data for the cars from the mid 20's to mid 1930's. These catalogs are getting harder to find. So when at a swap mee always look through a venders literature pile. You never know what you might find. One year i found tow McCord gasket catalogs, one from 109 to 1936 and the other 1937 - 1950's. These were never used and in perfect condition. I purchased them for 1 dollar each. I have seen the same catalogs on ebay being listed for over 50-75 dollars. So build your car library of information because the paper catalogs are al being tossed and put in the trash cans. Last night I was on ebay and doing some search against the Fel-pro grease retainer/gaskets and some of these are still being listed on ebay for the early cars so this will come in use for me and anyone else with the early cars. The spring catalog is also very helpful since it lists the original Mopar numbers and also the length and other data on the front and rear springs I will post pictures of the items. Rich Hartung
    1 point
  20. A Dodge COE would be so much more exciting than a ugly Ford.
    1 point
  21. I looked in my 39 Desoto parts book and also found the same number as indicated from above. Then went to my MoPar standards pats book and found the part number 119335 and copied the page with the information. Refer to Part Type code 18-130-2 3/16 3/8-27 thread. Hope this provides everyone with the info. If anyone finds this fitting please let everyone know the company and part number and the contact info and price. I have sent and email to restoration Supply in Windber PA and also to MacMaster to see if they carry this special fitting. If they do carry the fitting I will post the information and the price. Lets all keep our fingers cross that we can find the special connector. or if anyone else finds one please post the info. Rich Hartung Oil gage Nut with slleve assembly 119335.pdf
    1 point
  22. I will agree with the Chevy cam to some degree..not all the time is the metal fatigue due to poor material or workmanship..it is a product of over building for the street and improper break in..most of these boys will put in high lift cam, super heavy springs so as not to float at the revs they will NEER run on the street and then idle these babies to a ground powdered metal just to hear them chop. IF you think you need a engine of this nature..DO install normal daily driver stock grocery getter spring and break in the cam right..then after break in..change to the higher tension..however I still don't recommend racing hardware on the street driven car that will idle or pull a AC at low rpm etc....dollar for dollar more money is spent on a Chevy engine in the valve train area than anywhere else on the engine so they can be on par with either the Mopar or Ford stock design. These are such a major flaw in the GM and just recently have they copied the 1957 Mopar poly block heads of the 318 for performance and durability...
    1 point
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