Leaderboard

put the crank in a plastic bag before you use spray foam, if you go that route.

A while ago I put in my old water pump and it had a leak out of the weep hole. So I ordered a new water pump that looks pretty well made and its permanently sealed with lube. Now I'm going through my carburetor that I rebuilt 40 years ago. I work slow. I thought I better at least service it first. I bought a carb kit online, which came with new gaskets, float bowl needle, and accelerator plunger. The leather rings on my accelerator plunger and dashpot plunger were both hardened after 40 years. I have another good accelerator plunger with good leather and I thought I could take the ring off of it and put it on the dashpot, but no soap. I found out the these leather rings are permanently attached on the bottom. So I ordered a new dashpot for cars with Fluid Drive from Ebay for $26. The carburetor kit I bought did not come with a new dashpot, but that kit only cost about $20. If you are new to these carburetors it might be confusing which one is the accelerator and which one is the dashpot, so I put some pics below. The first pic is the accelerator and the second smaller pic is the dashpot.

I would use a double sided tape and a heavy plastic. maybe a heavy duty trash bag like used for yard waste

when cutting corners means......you did not cut a corner.....

I'll take, I'm skint for 60 These game shows can be rough on a person.

I'll take PASS OR PLAY for 150 please.....this is your DAILY DOUBLE.

"Name this piece..." I dub thee... Horace!... What?

Agreed. But I start with a vacuum gauge setting first. That usually gets very near optimum. I don't think I've used a timing light on old engines in 20 years or more.

Haha. We'd love to, but it'd be a very long drive!

Gotcha....thanks Steve

I see he runs his pedals 1/4 turn from stock, I like mine that way too.

I always use my W.I.F.E. (Willing Indigenous Free Engineer). It's great for those bonding moments and has added benefits as well.

I think its funny when the boy racers here rev up their little 4 poppers with glass packs. They think they sound so tough until I rev up my 230 with a genuine 1960s glass pack. Ya I know they are a lot faster than me, but they don't know that and our Miss Daisy is 85 years old. The only way their car will reach 85 years is as a baked bean can. Lol

The mirrors were bought from Amazon for $40.00 for the pair. They are Jeep Wrangler mirrors, not original but look similar. It would cost more than that for shipping to purchase the originals from a US supplier.

Dash mods for the Dakota Digitals.

I went with tweed and a marine grade, slate gray vinyl. Prestige tweed, has some options. Fabricwholesaledirect has some Ottertex vinyl that might work for you. I glued three separate 1/4” sew foam pieces to the panel, with a 3/4” margin between them, for the trim to be in contact with the panel board. I bought the staples for the lower trim from rubbertherightway.com, 19-051F. I tried to replicate the original, minus the cotton batting. Rick D.

Fastenal also does third party shipping via thier logistics operation. I've shipped engines and other very large items through them in the past. Last time was 3 or 4 years ago and the price was still reasonable then. Drop off at your nearest branch and pickup at the nearest destination branch.

Maybe verify with the recipient what shipping method is acceptable...I have shipped bulky items by Greyhound and by FedEx Freight to the nearest town, then I had to go pick them up, which was kindofa hassle as neither station was enthusiastic about letting me get my stuff out of their cages cuz they both had reps with a case of the don't-wanna-try. I have since become acquainted with several ppl at FedEx Freight so I can call them directly instead of dealing with the automated operator round'n'round.

As someone who tests shipping packaging as part of my job, I second the plastic wrap then spray foam method along with a heavy duty box or crate.

i had a crank shipped to me it came in cardboard box with crank wrapped in plastic and completely spray foamed the plastic bag keeps the foam off the crank and easier to remove

Maybe also consider bracing the crankshaft with some sturdy small boxes or foam like they put in many boxes you see today within a sturdy box. The boxes will allow some give if it's dropped. Make a box with sturdy handles on the sides. Workers are more likely to drop or toss a heavy box without handles.

Hi Matt I have never done this so nothing I say can be considered helpful but I would be leery of spray foam as I am not sure how easy it will be to remove it at the receiving end. Am I correct in assuming you are sending it to a machine shop?? Even if that isn't the case I would contact a couple of crankshaft places or parts supply depots and ask them how they ship them? Otherwise my best guess would be supporting the two ends in the crate and filling the remainder with those commercial packing pellets (peanuts) but again I don't have any experience in doing this. Hope it all works out for you. Dave

Bracket, once clearanced, bolted up to the spindle. I see why Rusty Hope had you drill out and tap the spindle. No room between the rotor and spindle for a bolt head or a nut to fit.