Leaderboard

The Gathering of the Faithfull in Middleboro MA is a "celebration of vintage speed" and where you have vintage speed, of course you have flathead MoPars! It was a beautiful day today (not only because the P12 didn't break down on the way like it did the last time) and attached are pics of the vintage speedsters in attendance this group should like.

For any of you in the vicinity of southwest Pennsylvania I’d like to give a shout out to P&M Auto Electric in Centerville. They’ve been in business for years and are very experienced with 6 volt components. I just had a starter rebuilt and new battery cables made. I highly recommend them and no I have no connection to the company, just a satisfied customer.

I recommend starting from scratch. Remove the plugs and wires. With the plugs out you can turn the engine by hand using the fan. Place a finger on the front spark plug hole until the compression pushes it off. At that point the timing mark should line up with the pointer. Remove the cap and the rotor should be at the 7 o’clock position. I normally remove the distributor at this point when replacing points. It’s much easier to work on and adjust the gap. Replace the distributor and plugs. The firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4. Make sure all the wires are seated properly on both ends. This should get you running again. After the engine has fully warmed up check the timing with a timing light and fine tune the adjustment if needed. If you don’t have a service manual I highly recommend one. If not someone here will have the data you need. Good luck.

I do appreciate that .... I have a rustyhope kit sitting on the shelf I bought for another project ..... I know exactly what I have with it if I use it. Current project brakes are good. I have asked about this in the past, you are the first that answered that question about scarebird brake parts replacement. Personally I think a original MC if in good shape and usable will be just fine. I believe the braking system on your car is a engineered system? Works fine as is. Now if you have original brakes, & modify the master cylinder .... you have to learn a whole new skill just specific to your brake system ..... I mean applying the correct proportioning valve size to work with your existing brakes. Simply not a one size fits all ... Will take test & tune to make all work correct. IMHO I would update all the brake system & not just a part of it ???? Honestly I'm a big believer in fix what you have, then modify & grow with what you need.

There are remote reservoir kits for off the shelf OEM master cylinders, Corvette ones are easiest to find, but they aren't any cheaper. No reason you could no drill a hole in the side of the M/C reservoir, screw in a fitting and use a more generic remote reservoir to feed whatever master you want to run.

that extra 100.00 would go a long way with buying parts for other systems/needs for the vehicle and while you can order the rebuild kits for these, they are some double the cost and only available from them. Whereas other brands listed here are OTC assemblies and repair kits and could mean the difference between stranded offsite and laid up a day or say awaiting parts. This is more important to me, RM&A is everything when building and is always the deciding factor for myself. If you do not plan to take the car away from home then I can see where parts availability may not be an issue.

Why do you think that your trouble is in the charging system? You said that the engine backfired and stopped. Perhaps you should check the ignition points gap and perhaps the timing. Another thing to check is the carb float, it may have stuck and caused the engine to flood. Check the battery voltage at 1500 rpm as suggested. If it is OK then look at these other possible problems.