The adaptation of a newer master and the selection of that master will be your call, I used last generation Dakota. Do as I did and go on walkabout at your local wrecking yard you may find something that you prefer. I do so hate making this a suggested unit as like poor ole Charlie who got slammed for his kits when folks who buy them for install have little to zero skills at resolving such simple issues as a castle nut and whine and moan. On just installing the rustyhope caliper plates, my castle nut issue was such a simple resolve and no cuts to the castle nut and still using stock backing washer. Purposely falling off a log would be a harder task to perform. You can get the very valve kits from some of the rodding shops sell for much higher money off e-bay by shopping around for about 42.00 portioning valve and the two residuals delivered to your door. You may entail comingling of flare seats with your modern donor master so be sure to check the seats in master and if more prevalent ball style verse inverted flare, get the two short lines that attach to the master so you can flare the one end to that of the inverted flare common to older car and the residual valves. Often one line is a course thread and one is fine to prevent you from mixing the primary with the secondary. Some of the masters are stamped with bore size and P for primary outlet (front) and S for secondary outlet (rear). Plumbing the donor master for remote lines is with use of sweat fittings and copper tubing. Swaging will come into play, stock swage fitting in a kit will not do the task, get creative here, I used a barbed hose nipple for the small amount of flare needed for inserting the fitting into the tube. Seating the fitting and making a retainer plate for the new fabricated adapters and I suggest two slots at the bottom in line with the fill holes of the master internal bore and do clean the ends of your tubing from burrs and other trash/residue. Routing of the remote fill lines I suggest Adel clamps or similar to keep these dressed and out of way of other items affixed in the area. The reservoir can be had for 15.00 delivered to your door if you shop wisely on e-bay. The EPDM rubber can be had at some of the local supply houses, most auto parts stores and online want 3.50 to 7.50 a foot. Ten foot roll which is plenty is only 14.20 with tax locally. Do your own shopping as I have no clue the stores in your area. But as a hint, many stores in my area gouge as they have so little competition. You will be making a bracket also for the remote reservoir, this can be out of lighter metal as there is so little weight involved and no stresses applied. This may sound a bit vague but if anyone is the least bit creative and understand the mechanical and principal two unit cannot occupy the same space....you should have no issues. Time, well it will take a bit to fabricate the brackets, adapters and rod extension and assemble/sweat the fittings for the nipples. None of this is hard, none is really expensive, even a new master can be had for 46.00 verse my cost of 10.00 from a sealed and working brake system in the wrecking yard. I chose the wrecking yard unit over a new as this was all experimental and different to the normal manner and means referenced by most our forum members and while I do not mind spending money, I do not like wasting it while doing mockup. Again, your call, lack of success is based mainly on lack of imagination and initiative, failure to see the obvious little confidence in one's self to adapt and overcome.