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I bought her on the last day of August 2021. She was non-running, non-driving, with a stripped interior and a missing second gear. She needed a lot of work. She still needs a lot of work, but she is 1000% better than the car I bought. I have depended on this sight for a lot of information. I got tons of help, even from people who disagree with the direction I am taking her. We have come a long way and I couldnt have done it without this sight and all the people who where willing to extend a helping hand to a clueless idiot. Thank you everyone!

@Young Ed thank you! it was an adjustment on the cable about a 1/8 of a turn to the right. I initially turned it about a 1/4 of a turn and i got the reverse to engage but then i couldn't engage 1st gear so i backed it up 1/8th of turn and now its good:)

I’ve been working on this tail light for the bike. It’s built from a automotive vacuum test pump that could not hold vacuum. Most of the shaping was done with hand files & sandpaper. The rough form was done on the bench grinder. That little clamp at the top came from a Shimano twist grip shifter. There’s no wiring yet. Also I haven’t buffed it or clearcoated.

Yes, that's the release bearing in the first picture. I would pull the bellhousing, clutch and inspect...

I have made some progress... i picked up a full donor car, an '08 charger with Police package, 5.7 litre, NAG1 trans. I got the chevy 6 that was in there removed, fab'd up some mounts and have the motor set in. Waiting to burn the frame side of the mounts in until I get the rear in place. I am swapping the stock(?) rear for the charger rear end. Give me the big police disc brakes and irs,, also helps with the trans.

Replace pin with a longer piece that can be either a nut bolt or something you can use clips on.

Yes. For instance, the first thing my Dad did when he bought a 62 Chrysler Newport in 66, was to replace the 14" wheels with the 15" wheels off of a 53 DeSoto. And the same pattern was used for some years after that as well. (I don't recall that I ever tried to mount those DeSoto wheels on my 72 Coronet, but I wouldn't be surprised if they would have fit.)

That sounds more reasonable. Now my 51 probably blew past that but most of it was "hot rod" stuff which I don't count as it's discretionary not mandatory. I don't live where the salt devil resides, I grew up there though. I saw what it did to cars, no thanks.

I don’t think they were OEM for 48. Perhaps they’re from a later year car. Mopar used those throughout the 50’s. I believe the bolt pattern stayed the same for many years also.

New Jersey still has drive-thru inspection stations, that are operated by a contractor hired by the state. The state inspection for cars consists of an emission test ONLY. You can have bald tires, no brakes, and non-functioning lights, but if the check-engine light is off, YOU PASS!

Awesome job! Happy anniversary!

Not sure why you are thinking about the coil, if the starter isn't spinning the coil can't do anything. In neutral, the clutch is no longer connected to the rear wheels. So it proves nothing there. Now if you had it in gear AND the clutch pedal depressed and it moved freely, then yes the clutch is not stuck. Do a voltage drop test on your setup, you will need a second person to push the starter pedal though. Make sure it is in neutral AND the wheels are chocked, you don't want to run yourself over. My voltage drop test method in the video below. Anytime I used the starter solenoid in that video you will need to have someone push the starter pedal instead. https://youtu.be/cRz1IqJLXqU

My thoughts are similar to what Los_Control said. I suspect it’s a connection issue, most likely the contacts inside the starter switch that is operated with your foot lever. I also agree with his observation about the battery cables. They look like ‘off the shelf’ cables from the local auto parts store. They are fine for modern 12v vehicles but quite small for a 6 volt vehicle. I also notice that you have an 8 volt battery installed. Once you get it running you’ll need to readjust your voltage regulator to ensure it charges properly.

Curious about the cables. .... 6 volt positive ground requires heavy cables to carry the amps. I have .02 sized cables which is on the small size but they work. 00 or 01 would be ideal. The red cable looks small, but photos can be deceiving. .... The black cable looks way too small, judging from where it sits next to the red one. Seems like you would still get a click or something, even if it would not turn the engine over fast enough to start. .... Something else is going on. Grounds are extremely important on a 6 volt system .... looks like yours is connected to the head? Seems like it would be ok. Mine goes to the transmission cover on top. The starter & trans are both bolted to the bell housing ... Your ground may be more effective ... May not matter. I think it would look a lot cleaner if you ran the wire from the battery down low .... maybe to a bell housing bolt? Looks like you have a stomp starter, iirc there is a copper washer under the cover of the solenoid. This can get corroded ... this would prevent the starter from working. I think you can remove the solenoid cover with the starter installed and clean/inspect it. <---- Would be the first thing I would check.