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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/14/2022 in all areas

  1. I bought her on the last day of August 2021. She was non-running, non-driving, with a stripped interior and a missing second gear. She needed a lot of work. She still needs a lot of work, but she is 1000% better than the car I bought. I have depended on this sight for a lot of information. I got tons of help, even from people who disagree with the direction I am taking her. We have come a long way and I couldnt have done it without this sight and all the people who where willing to extend a helping hand to a clueless idiot. Thank you everyone!
    5 points
  2. I don’t post much but I use this forum as a weekly reference on the journey to improve my 52 Cranbrook over the last 8 years. Just wanted to let everyone know how helpful the information here has been as I have done the following repairs 1) total tune up 2) carb rebuild 3) wiring the lights 4) installing new temp gauge 5) timing the car 6) making new plug wires 7) cold valve adjustment ?replace shocks 9) replace gas tank drain gasket 10) replace u-joint dust cover 11) replace coil 12) replace battery 13) list goes on… I started this journey with no knowledge of car repair and thanks to this group as well as some YouTube videos and the old repair manual have been able to do this myself. Thank you all!
    1 point
  3. Love your energy and the progress you have made. HAPPY ANNIVERSARY! ???
    1 point
  4. I just need to remove the frame from the door for repaint, either with the vent removed or still in place. I prefer to not disturb the rubber seal.
    1 point
  5. seems there are rat droppings everywhere you go these days.....?
    1 point
  6. More photos: This show had a Mopar Row. A couple of Darts showed up later. Engine in the above brown Dodge. Obligatory Lil Red Express truck. And this show had two! "Dubbed" Plymouth There quite a few rat rods. My wife doesn't get this style. I don't particularly care for it but like to check out the amount of work and ingenuity that goes into some of them. This one was the only Mopar, a "Dodge".
    1 point
  7. i’d opt for the drift/hammer method to remove the drum as rob describes. the vibration should eventually free them from the axle mating flange.
    1 point
  8. The drum will come off without pulling the axle shaft and hub. Spray some lube around the hub...make sure all the large slotted screws are removed. Sometimes just using two large wide screw drivers between drum and backing plate carefully attempt to wedge the drum off the hub. Also I use a 1" by10" long brass drift to break the drum loose from the hubs on these larger brake trucks. Use a 2-3 lb hammer and hit the drum mounting suface between the lug studs several times. This drift hammer shocking usually will cause the drum to bounce free of the hub.
    1 point
  9. Pretty sure that is what I did the first time, I'll look for the screws at the top of the vent and give it another go. I hate forgetting how I did something earlier.......but at least I don't have to buy any new books...........
    1 point
  10. A small town there is only one station in town to do the inspection. ... Often I pull up for inspection & 1 or 2 ahead of me. Sometimes 3 ..... Because they are a towing company that also works for the state .... Recovers semi's/accidents from the freeway, They do impounds for the police department, they have mechanic station for repairs .... Just saying every citizen here goes through the same procedure ... The Mayor, The police chief, the ladies at the tax office accepting the inspection to grant you a new registration .... If you have to wait, the old dog will nip at most people .... for some reason He lies near me & lets me give attention. .... Is what it is. .... Small towns rule!
    1 point
  11. I drove Dad’s ‘50 M-H grain harvestor . It was a hot dirty job, it had a mopar engine. We world put in 8-10 hours in the heat of the grain field. That engine never, ever sputtered. If these engines are driven at the correct RPM’S and steady, they will run forever. Once my truck is repaired, I would not hesitate to drive it coast to coast. We move to Maine in spring, I may drive it out. Dress in ‘50’s clothing and eat at vintage diners. Would go about 350 miles a day and enjoy the scenery.
    1 point
  12. I see what is going on there, you got to hold that dog back from taking the wheel....and with the blurred car out the window...you gotta be speeding....!!
    1 point
  13. Quick dark oil, to me may be an indication of an excessive amount of exhaust gasses getting into to the crank case. Black sooty stuff. This could indeed be an indication of worn piston rings. Also this could be caused by excessive valve lash or worn valve guides. A compression test will take out some variables for sure. I would do both a dry and wet compression test. Meaning put a few drops of oil into a cylinder, then test. Could the white puff of smoke coming from under the car be burning coolant? That could mean maybe a bad head gasket or a cracked cylinder head or block. Are you monitoring your coolant level? Losing any? Is your crank case oil level growing at all up the dip stick tube over time? Perhaps consider taking an oil sample and taking it to a lab for analysis. They can tell you if there is coolant or excessive soot and oxidation in your oil. A quick easy place is to go to your local heavy Duty Caterpillar equipment dealer. Buy 1 SOS Oil sample kit. Take it home, take a proper sample, fill out the form and bring it back to the CAT dealer. A few days later you'll get the results. Probably will cost $12-$15 US dollars. If you do this, message me about how to properly take a sample so results are not skewed.
    1 point
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