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at this point the trim is so shiney it is hard to get a good picture so here is a close-up to showcase the grain.

To All: First if anyone is attending Hershey you are all welcome to stop by my Site to sit and relax and talk MoPar issues. I am located in the Orange Field row OAD site 7&8. which is the field that has the GIANT Indoor Arena. We are about a 5 minute walk from my site to the New AACA Headquarters building Please stop by and say hello. This year I will be displaying a large National Desoto Club banner If you are planning to attend the great Hershey swap and car show please beware of the new revised dates. On Monday 10/3 is packin day for the vendors and setup day. The swap meet runs from Tues 10-4 to Thursday 10/6. The car show is now being held on Friday 10/7/22 and the car show is no longer held on Saturdays So plan accordingly because of the new dates. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I had some clogged shackle bushings on a 55 Chevy pickup decades ago. I removed the grease fittings and dug in there with a wire and stuck the straw on a wd40 spray can in there and soaked the old grease. That helped soften it so I could dig more out. After awhile I replaced the zerks and was able to get them all greased.

The NOS gauges are probably going to be your only choice if you want a gauge that works properly. A fuel gauge that isn't accurate is worse than a gauge that doesn't work.? Here is an example of what is available for vintage 6v cars, but I have no idea if it is compatible with our sender. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dynacorn-G02-Fuel-Gauge-47-49-6-Volt-Chevy,401051.html If your odometer works you can use that as a semi-gauge. Top up the tank, then calculate how many miles you can go until you get to 1/4 tank. Then top up again. That's the way I kept up with fuel in my kit car.

Hubs on the front axle are held on by the nut on the spindle. remove cotter pin and nut and hub will pull off by hand if shoes are not too worn or rusted. then tap with hammer around till loosened

I don't like your choice of colors as I prefer original looking woodgrain, but maybe your goal is for something totally different.

Hello all I hope I’m in the right place I see it says mid 30d and mopar I have a 1934 dodge coupe that’s been sitting since 1967 Motor was seized and it was dirty I spent a month and half getting parts for the motor did an in frame rebuild new rings main and rod bearings car runs and drives excellent it’s still amazing how a car sat for so long and runs and drives so well But hey it’s a Dodge I am not going to restore it I think it looks great the way it is! Thank you all John

Actually, we may not have had the floor jack then yet. I really don't remember well enough to say for sure. But in the later years, at least, we sure did drag that jack across the yard a lot, what with all the cars we had in the back field by then. And Grandpa had a big A-frame deal made out of something around 2" steel pipe that we used for a swing when we were kids, and later to pull engines with. (He had a hand crank cable hoist mounted on it when he was using it, but Dad got an old chain hoist some place, and that was a lot more handy.)

If it runs now don't turn your distributor 180 degrees. The fact that it currently runs tells us that the distributor is setup properly, even though it may not be pointing in the direction you desire. The timing may be off slightly, or the points may not be adjusted properly, but it's close enough to make it run. You just need some fine tuning from here.

You really do want the right tool for the job in this case. I bought mine from ebay a couple years ago for $80. I see today $46-$95. Using the dog bone handle I used a 3 pound sledge hammer on it. You put enough force on the puller where I was just a bit hesitant to apply more .... Tap on the side of the drum a few times .... walk away for 5-10 min. Whack it again a few more time & let it sit ... 20-30 minutes mine popped free with such a force the dog bone handle flew 3' & hit the side of the house. The other side came off in 5 min. You really want a good tool, a lesser tool may fail before you get a tough drum off. You will probably never use the tool except for a old car with tapered axles .... no good way around it though.

I hope you right today was first it started to purr for a bit

It's unlikely oil is coming out of the vent but if it is plugged the pressure that can build up in the diff can push oil past the seals. Find the vent (on top surface of the housing on my P15) and make sure the cotter pin in it is free to allowing venting. Many times the leak is at the pinion shaft near the universal joint. The seal can wear a groove in the drive flange which then passes oil....along with the old seal being hardened. Sometimes a Speedi-Sleeve is installed on the flange to allow the new seal to function properly. https://www.skf.com/us/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve Here are photos showing how the sleeve works, in this case on the crankshaft pulley. The worn seal surface: And the renewed surface after the sleeve is installed.

I had to laugh at the line ("I know folks in the southwest that tan snake hides with anti-freeze") (speaking of snakes) Vladimir Lenin is mummified in what we use for anti-freeze today. His body has been on display since the 1920s in Red Square. They give him a dunk in the stuff for a week once a year and touch up his makeup. The moisture in his remains has long since left being replaced by the anti-freeze thus achieving the goal that was called "The immortality Project". A little too creepy for my tastes I am afraid. If it has kept Lenin's corpse from stinking for nearly a century, (nothing could help his ideology however) I am sure a few mice won't stink either.

Dash fuel gauge doesn't really have any need for oil or have parts that would wear out from the extra swinging. Oil would actually cause issues I believe. There is set of points that you clean on some gauges if they are not working but yours is working so leave it alone would be my recommendation. Most issues are with the sender but yours is working as it should and swings with the sloshing of the fuel some.

That's what the PO did. It wasn't a pretty sight.

Ok, this may get moved or copied to the other forums, but I know people get a little lost on the search function. MAYBE this will help clear things up. So, say I want to search "tail light". FIRST I have to decide if I want to search the MAIN forum or within a SUB-forum. If you are in the sub-forum you want to search, select "This Forum" by clicking IN the SEARCH oval for the drop down, other search options are displayed when click in the search box This is a MAIN forum search: but I KNOW I want something in the truck forum so I will go to THAT forum and search there: enter my search term "tail light" and hit the looking glass to search: This search returns this: You can be even more detailed in your search if you go to the "+ More Search Options" and enter information there: I this case I remembered a post by "ggdad1951" that had the info in I needed so I select "Search by author" and enter that search term: that results in a more defined search like this: Of course you can do all sorts of advanced searches with the check boxes to help you find things and you can also do a Boolean search to help refine early on in the process. Boolean searches include the "+" or "-" to either include or exclude things you are looking for. In the example below in the red box I put the "+" in front of tail light and truck. This will return ONLY search that have BOTH terms, see the yellow boxes. It will also pop up the GREEN box to further help you. More about Boolean search can be found via Google or your favorite search engine. Hopefully this helps! IF you have a suggestion to make this tutorial better, PM me. Thanks!