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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/04/2022 in all areas

  1. Rust line or crap in the bowel? I should hope not. (I think he means bowl.) Sorry, i couldn't help myself. I'll go to the corner. (The walls say "Andy was here".)
    2 points
  2. Well, I got the C body sleeve installed and eyeballed the toe today. I don't know that I like how much of the tie rod threads are exposed. The stock sleeve was ~10", the C body is ~ 8", I really wanted something around 9" but alas, no luck finding that. This was the last job I did today, tomorrow, maybe, the alignment gets done. I cleaned up a leak at the thermostat housing, put in some drain cocks in the radiator and block that have nipples for a hose. Hopefully, this is the last coolant mess I make with this car, lol. I then got out my fancy, new to me, Craftsman Engine Analyzer. Voltmeter reads high compared to my calibrated Fluke, about 1 volt high at 13 volts. Dwell is reading about 26 degrees, both with the Craftsman and the Actron meters, hmm. I know I set it to spec last tune up. My timing was about 10 degrees advances, fixed that. Tomorrow, before the engine gets all hot I'll set the gap. Set the idle rpm for 650, rather than the 900 it was at. Tightened up some leaky hose clamps. Let it run for about a half hour looking for leaks, the electric fan cycled on and off as expected, used my IR gun to verify. the analyzer
    1 point
  3. Yes, my leaf spring covers look just like yours.
    1 point
  4. Vic’s has one for $28. In the write up, they say it is well made and won’t bend like their competition…I’ll give them a try…
    1 point
  5. The seal lip always faces the oil side. My picture above is installed with the lip facing inwards towards the diff...oil side. That nosr seal is made of thick steel. It will not deform easily like thin modern replacements. To install the new thin sheet metal seals it's critical the driver is completely flat and the same diameter as the seal less a few thousands. Careful tapping to drive the seal in. The seal face cannot deform at all or will most likely leak.
    1 point
  6. Yep,, it's what the Service Manual calls a "bi-metallic gauge". It merited one-and-one-half pages, to 'splain how it was supposed to work, and how to service it. The reading gas was a sort of tug-of-war between the two bimetallic strips. I suppose it was an attempt to even out the sloshes in the tank. Chrysler gave up on it and went with an electro-magnetic type. Cheaper, less prone to trouble, and using one less wire.
    1 point
  7. Ah crap, I was all fired up to make a tool and prove my worth ? This does cover it, thanks, Sniper...can't pass this up.
    1 point
  8. This one ought to cover it https://www.amazon.com/Bushing-Transmission-Bearing-Installer-Remover/dp/B08954GW18/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1HM070HXVT519&keywords=seal%2Binstaller%2Bkit&qid=1662300674&sprefix=seal%2Binstall%2Caps%2C1156&sr=8-8&th=1
    1 point
  9. What happens, near as I can remember, is that as the bimetallic strips heat they bend. They bend because those strips use two different metals in their construction and have different rates of expansion. the variable resistor that is part of the sending unit controls the current flow thru the strips and that controls the amount of heating and thereby the amount of bend in the strips.
    1 point
  10. Ha! I saw the same thing...I thought it was a '52 Fud rear window grafted onto it.
    1 point
  11. Looking at the blue coupe at the start of this thread, I wondered what was that black quadrant at the back of the roof. Some attempt at a '50's wraparound rear window? Nope. A reflection of the fascia of the adjacent building. What I call an "optional delusion".
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. Yes, good rule to follow, if there is/was one, plan for more. Rodents are abundant up here, I always plan for a battle every fall when they're looking for a pace to winter, and through winter since I keep my shop heated. Little buggers got into my VW Beetle a couple years ago, destroyed the glove box to make their nest, I still get puffs of carboard shavings once in a while when I open vents, but I got them out in time to avoid more serious damage or even any odor. It was only a few days between parking it and finding that they had infiltrated it. All the service shops up here do a nest removal routine in the spring for folks who park their cars outside. Mothballs, dryer sheets, and such don't really keep rodents out of cars, but they do keep them from nesting in them. I've never tried those sonic repellent devices, don't know anyone who has.
    1 point
  14. Now if you were to send that nice 41 Dodge to me here in Oz I will make sure that no vermin get into it............we only have 6' high grey Kangaroos and Emus and neither are able to get into the various nooks & crannies that the smaller varmits can.........tho' I must admit that our larger varmits do have a tendency to cross the road at night as we are driving by........still a cheap way to obtain fresh roadkill..............lol..........andyd
    1 point
  15. i used 1/2 drive socket to drive the seals in with some success i have large enough sockets to cover seal
    1 point
  16. You don't torque this nut, hand tight then check wheel movement, bit more or bit less depending on bearing play. You dont want to crush the bearing but you dont want it loose either. Hence the reason for the castle nut and split pin
    1 point
  17. I had one on my D24. It was an export pump. Perhaps the steering shaft on rh drive interfered with the sediment bowl. It will work fine but I would add a filter between the pump and carb.
    1 point
  18. They did find out that the sprayon undercoating that the factory and also the independent dealers were doing was doing more harm than good. The main reason is that when forst applied it worked to repel water and rust but as the sprayon material got britel and then would chip off becasue of a rock hitting the under carriage this would leae a small hole inwhich water and salt and other chemical could seep into the hole and then the water was trapped between the metal and the coating and then more internal rusting starting and the owner never saw the rusting because of the coating on the underbody. I would suggest clean the under carraige and then coat with some rustolem or pors15 and then keep a watch on the under body. Rich Hartung
    1 point
  19. Undercoating is not something I deal with in my neck of the woods. While many people go to great lengths to undercoat vehicles in the snow belt. I know of a person that uses bar oil for a chainsaw. They thin it down with kerosene then spray the whole undercarriage of a car for protection. The kerosene evaporates & nothing left but oil I'm thinking the grease on the leaf springs may have been from a loose Hog. When the Hog was caught & smoked up for bacon, the fat was melted down & used on the springs for lubrication. Common practice in 1950's Just a guess
    1 point
  20. Bryan, Avoid all headaches and set traps. I have caught as many as 4 at a time in my garage near my Chrysler with Traps. No mess no smell that I can tell all those little buggers have gone to H_ _ _. LOL. Windows up in the Fall at all times - Moths will atend to your Wool Interiors if not. Do as you please, Fact: no vermin can attack an antique car that is adequetly surrouned by loaded traps. Tom
    1 point
  21. In SC mice can be a problem. I keep a bag of mothballs in the trunk and driver floor of the car. Keeps moths and mice away. You have to change them about once a year, and if you are working in/around the car make sure to air it out first with a fan. Will give you a headache, feels like a hangover next day.
    1 point
  22. Oldodge41, sure you weren't just looking for an excuse to post a pic of that fine automobile? ? Hate those little buggers. I've got my car on stands right now, and I was poking around at the rockers. Found a soft spot, which was paper thin and gave out quickly, and let down a shower of half munched acorns. They had a rager in there at some point, now I'm going to have to do some bodywork. I found their skeletons when I did the initial clean-out of the car, frozen in heroic poses. Serves 'em right.
    1 point
  23. I walked away from a few projects when mice had taken hold and stunk it up not to mention the rust damage from piss. Sounds like you got it early but set some traps, if you find 1 there may be more around. Before I tore down my old 1-1/2 car garage I came home after a few weeks assignment to a bad stench in the garage. It was an old wood sided building, and the concrete was cracked and beat up. I had a few 5 gal buckets in there with tools and motorcycles. Buckets had bird seed in them at one time but the one had water for washing the cars. A chipmunk must have jumped into the one with water thinking he was going to get seed and I can imagine he swam in circles for some time before he went belly up. It was hot, he was swollen like a balloon that I was sure would pop open as soon as I picked up the bucket. I was inspired. I tore the garage down that fall and put up the new one with the help of a few buddies by Xmas.
    1 point
  24. To my continuing amazement I have never found any evidence of animal infestation in either of my old cars or for that matter the modern ones either. And my modern SUV sits without moving for days at a time especially in Summer I really don’t go out of my way to do any preventative measures. Just keep the windows and vents closed when the cars are in the garage. I don’t live in Hamelin either. The cats and snakes around here must eat well. That said my 52 must have had issues before I owned it (20 years ago) because parts of the lower frame were soft and I did pull out nesting materials shortly after I bought it.
    1 point
  25. That sure sounds like fun! His car with the carrier on top looks like a great adventure!
    1 point
  26. Here I am some years ago at the home of Pennsylvania's most famous groundhog, or whistle pig if you prefer. Punxsutawney, or Punxy as we call it, is a little over an hour from home. I had darker hair and my '69 Dart then.
    1 point
  27. 75 years ago today, a red Plymouth convertible rolled off the line in Detroit. Delivered to Gettysburg Motors in Pennsylvania, it stayed in the same town until 2004 when I imported it to the UK. Still beautiful, but certainly no powder puff, last weekend it was put through its paces at Prescott Hill Climb.
    1 point
  28. A friend, and former forum member, had a truck with this throttle pedal ‘modification’. He has since sold this truck
    1 point
  29. Finally got enough things together to fire her up and pull her outside to run for a few minutes. Fired right up like a champ and idles so smoothly. Identify the handful of small leaks to address. Otherwise she's one more step closer to roadworthy. September is pretty busy for me but I've got a few people handling putting new tires on it while I'm gone
    1 point
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