Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/14/2022 in all areas

  1. Can't speak for everyone, but trial and error works. Eventually. Adjust, check feel, redo, over and over and over.
    2 points
  2. Or you can just watch my voltage drop test video, done on my 51 Plymouth
    2 points
  3. your local big box store should have the ability to test your battery usually for free...I would suggest charging it and carrying it to them in that condition. you can have a few items relating to poor performance given a battery goes dead quickly....usually a amp draw test with the starter turning and also do not overlook checking your cabling and connections by way of voltage drop test....you will need a shunted meter for the amp test or a clip on DC inductive meter. If you have a question to the voltage drop test, quick look online will spell this out so a contributor here will not have so much to type, same with amperage testing....
    2 points
  4. So, I've had a B3D since the mid-80s. It was is pretty good shape but considered it a retirement project. Unfortunately, a few years back, a very large fir tree completely flattened the cab. I was so disappointed that I didn't even remove the tree until recently. I've been using parts off of it for my other 2 pilothouse projects. My first surprise after all these years, was to find out it is a 1951, not 1952 like the title says. The title used the engine number. I just cleaned off enough of the paint on the door frame tag to find out it was a 51. The 2nd big surprise came this morning when I removed the seat for the first time since I bought it. The pictures below show what I found. It includes a stainless steel right-side parking light bucket and upper trim. Unfortunately. a previous owner drilled a hole in the bottom of the bucket to be able to mount a different light assembly. I guess I should have looked under the seat many years ago.
    1 point
  5. I went out and took a picture of my lower bolts. You can see the slots in the end of the bolts.
    1 point
  6. Well, I finally got the clutch rod unscrewed from the clutch long nut that goes into the fork. Luckily, my Tap and Die set had the needed 3/8" 24 thread tap and die. I could see that the clutch rod threads had been stressed and were dry. I lubed them and tapped and died the threads. Now they screw together easily! I guess I'm becoming a junior master mechanic bit by bit. I have had this clutch linkage assembly apart so many times now, I think I'm beginning to understand it!
    1 point
  7. I power my horn relay from the Accessory post of the ignition switch. The horn won't blow if the switch is off, but I can blow the horn for the neighbor kids without turning the Ignition switch all the way on. The little kids love me honking the horn.
    1 point
  8. here is some info i found i don't know how they loaded make sure to read them in order
    1 point
  9. Ya got to be bold with the hammer to get the races out! There are usually 2 or 4 cut outs in the hub around the back of the race, I usually crisscross, hitting in one spot then the other to keep the race from 'cocking' and jamming. BUT I would clean the bearings good, and inspect for damage. https://www.timken.com/pdf/5892_Bearing Damage Analysis Brochure.pdf Once clean, and if no flaws are found, I would test fit everything and figure out WTF is going on. Then pack with good grease and install with a new seal. If damage is found, I would replace the race and bearing together. I just sent a set of wheel bearings to New England Gear polishing for REM treatment, I will post a review when I get them back.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use