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    Sniper

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    White Spyder

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  4. chris 48 P15

    chris 48 P15

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/13/2022 in all areas

  1. White Spyder

    Horn went silent

    SteveR, thanks for the diagram. Sniper, it was not until I read your post that I kept missing that the key needed to be on to sound the horns.. several others mentioned it but I missed it. With the key on the jumper from the green wire to the relay, the horns blew. Pulled the center ring and fund the wire only hanging on by a couple of strands of copper. All is working as it should now.
    2 points
  2. @Sniper so what that means is we can’t go only electric fan on our vehicles at 6v. Electric fan plus a nice fan on the water pump should keep things moving enough. Who knows what the cfm of our fans are really but it’s directly proportional to the rp s , therefor something like max 3200*volume in a single revolution which is <<1. Even at low power pushing 1200 cfm, the electric fans will probably double airflow and help @keithb7 out when he’s climbing up that hill (making a deal with God).
    2 points
  3. A booster will make it easier on your foot, it won't stop any better if you can already lock up the drums. Assuming the current system can lock up the brakes you have two interrelated systems that need addressed. More tire, stock skinny tires will negate any braking system improvements. More brakes, once you up the tire contact patch you may find your stock brake capacity is exceeded. Options can include, no promises on finding them though, better friction material, larger drums or a swap to the largest discs that will fit inside your rim. There have been several recent threads detailing the various disc kits, I did one for Rusty Hope detailing all the ugly as well as the good, on my 51 Cambridge. As for the VH44 booster, it is adequate for an all drum setup (820 psi out), the VH40 is better for front disc/rear drums (1470 psi out). No idea how well the chinese knockoff works or lasts though.
    1 point
  4. The 671950 has arrived and is identical to my cracked original -- and interestingly, the only number visible on it is 1124780, so as Sniper hypothesized, that must indeed be a casting number. It looks like the original had a mismatched bearing applied to it at some point before I got the car, but I have the correct 658998 in hand and will hopefully be back on the road soon. Thanks to all who helped out!
    1 point
  5. Sam Buchanan

    Battery problem??

    Voltage isn't a good indicator of battery capacity. You might see a satisfactory voltage but when the starter's load is applied the current output goes flat.....common failure scenario. Solution (assuming all connections are clean and tight): Remove battery Recycle battery Install new battery. 🙂
    1 point
  6. more power more brakes there are disc brake conversions for the front i feel its a better set up even though not to strict originality you have to stop
    1 point
  7. the question about the tool not fitting i believe means it is out of adjustment turning the turn buckle will move the pins or the base of the tool to sit on frame when everything lines up it is adjusted properly readjust the clutch free play after
    1 point
  8. Sniper

    Horn went silent

    Nope. I am just mindful that I need to watch the driver's seat as I tilt it forward. Only thing that goes in the back is groceries, yes it is a grocery getter, lol.
    1 point
  9. Maybe it's an optical illusion but is the rod that threads into the turnbuckle bent slightly? It looks little skewed off straight too. Could it be that it is supposed to mount on the other side if the pin? As per the image below. I looked in my '53 parts book. It's another different design again by then. I look in my '49 parts book. Seems different too. No turn buckle shown.
    1 point
  10. kencombs

    brakes locking on

    First check the actual pedal free play. It may now have the rod too short. Then adjust shoe to drum clearance as you mentioned.
    1 point
  11. If my memory serves me right, someone on this forum advised me they are rubber wire grommets. They are the rubber insulators you would use in a hole in sheet- metal that a wire would be run through. Don't know the size but bought a box of assorted sizes off ebay and found the ones that fit.
    1 point
  12. Sniper

    Horn went silent

    One thing I learned when I rewired my car was that originally the horn would only work with the key in the on position. I thought that foolish since you couldn't honk the horn otherwise. So I set it up to work key on or off. Then one day I leaned my driver's seat forward to get in the back and the horn honked at me, lol. Now I know why they set it up the way they did.
    1 point
  13. Dodgeed

    1963 Ford Fairlane 500

    Beautiful looking car. Love that interior.
    1 point
  14. My suggestion is to study the linkage system to understand how its supposed to work. What pulls the pedal back? If it can’t come back what’s hindering it from returning? Take photos of the assembly before you take it apart. Look for heavy linkage use and wear as indicated above. Sometimes partial reassembly helps find the root cause. Get the linkage cycling and returning, maybe with partial parts installed. Keep adding parts and cycling the pedal. Once it binds up you have ID’d the part causing the problem. Understanding how it works is key to troubleshooting and fixing it. Not sure if that helps, but is what I do when I get stuck.
    1 point
  15. Young Ed

    Project snowballing

    Next one- this is likely to snowball too but it'll be self induced. My wagon used to have aftermarket air deflectors at the rear. The one side still has 2 random screws. Other side they got patched I guess. Anyway I tracked down a set of the factory handles and air deflectors. The snowball part will come in when I start taking apart the ancient plastic trim to bolt these on.
    1 point
  16. I contacted the Zerex Antifreeze technical service department regarding the proper Antifreeze that we should be using in our old cast iron engines. The rep informed me that we should be only using the Zerex Green Original Antifreeze for our cars that uses the IAT technology. We should not use the OAT type in our cars. Please read the attached information sheets to help you understand what product to use in your cars. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.comAntifreeze in classic cars.pdf Zerex Original Green Antifreeze .pdf Anti-Freeze and flushing cooling system.pdf
    1 point
  17. If you just want to run the engine in-chassis before everything else goes on, you just need a jumper wire from the Neg battery post to the (-) terminal on the coil. Something that can be removed easy to shut off the engine. The (+) side of the coil connects to the distributor as usual. Get an inexpensive gauge set and connect them up to monitor oil pressure and coolant temp. Hotwire the starter and "Let 'er Rip".
    1 point
  18. 1949 Wraith

    Lower shock mount

    I had a look at mine. Probably lots of rust in the bolt and axle. I would try, leaving it soaked overnight with penetrating oil, apply lots of heat and maybe an air hammer?
    1 point
  19. I have to agree with @Adam H P15 D30 I can see trying to stay period correct with your build .... with your 360 that bus left a long time ago. You could pick up a Ford Explorer 8.8 with disk brakes and many many options of gear ratios, you can get your parking brake back, you can buy brake parts from any local auto parts store. The swap is pretty straight forward, buy a rear end from the bone yard, try to get all the E-brake cables that go with it to modify to your use. Grind off the spring perches and weld on new ones .... Tractor supply use to sell spring perches for $20 ... I dunno about now and sure there are other options .... The U-joints depends with what you have now. I could name many more reasons to make the swap .... While I can not honestly think of 1 reason to modify your original rear end. IMHO .... agree or disagree .... Beefing up a stock rear end is like putting lipstick on a pig.
    1 point
  20. With that mill don't waste time or money on modifying the stock axle. You are in 8.75, 8.8 Ford or 9" Ford territory, don't cut corners at the rear axle... Probably spend less $$$$ putting something better in verses trying to strengthen what's there, not to mention ample gear, carrier and other parts availability.
    1 point
  21. IMHO, the strength of the rear axle is dependent on the size and how sticky the rear tires are. Every car/truck/tank/whatever will have a 'weak-link' and if you can generate enough torque then you will find it. The 9" and, especially the aftermarket 9", is overkill for 90% of the cars on the street. The 9" also suffers from the most parasitic power loss. The Mopar 8-3/4 is an excellent axle but now days expensive. The Ford 8.8 has proven itself as very durable. Until you make more than 500 lb-ft of torque you will be fine.
    1 point
  22. Or consider a late model ford 8.8 from an explorer, lots of ratios, limited slip units, with disc brakes 95 and up in the bone yards, and cheap - should be close to right axle width at 59.5 ". I had found a ford enthusiast website that had all the axle code info to search by the door tag. Another website to check is called "the ranger station". Mustang drag racers use these 8.8's with good success and durability. I considered using an 8.8 until I found the cherokee 8 1/4's w 3.55 ratio are cheap, plentiful and strong enough for a flattie powered car.
    1 point
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