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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/29/2022 in all areas

  1. And some of the worst offenders have moved on. While I am not a fan of Ford engines in general I am of the camp that it is your car, do with it as you please and if the occasion every arises that I feel so offended by your plans for your car I'll make you an offer that will entice you to sell to me me so I can "save it". Never happened and never will though.
    2 points
  2. I’ve been reading a book on American Automobile history. Written in 1965. It’s perfect for me. I’m not overly interested in anything newer than that. Lol. My 1938 Plymouth is an example of the 10th year of the Plymouth line. Henry Ford had totally dominated the low price car market for many years. No other car manufacturer seemed to be able to compete with Ford’s mass produced assembly line, low cost, Model T. He was losing the gap though. Eventually he had to accept that it was time for a change. The Model T had run its course. In 1928 the Ford factories closed as they re-tool’d and prepared for the newest, upgraded Ford. What a perfect time for Walter Chrysler to release his new low-priced Plymouth line. I suppose you couldn’t buy a low priced new Ford in 1928, but hey this new Plymouth looks pretty swell. And loaded with features! Was the 1928 Plymouth a choreographed release for Chrysler? Or just pure luck? The next year the 1929 Ford Model A was revealed. Walter had already won a lot of new customers by then. His entry priced Plymouth started at $670. The 1928 4 dr 5 passenger sedan was $725. My 1938 Plymouth 5 passenger P6 Deluxe sedan was priced at $803. Here we are at the pump tonight. A fine, fine summer evening cruise. I’m getting great value back on that engine rebuild. 212 miles.
    2 points
  3. It means that with the draft tube installed on the engine, you loosen the bolt holding the draft tube and point the tube down and back as far as it will go before hitting the bell housing. Tighten the bolt to hold it in place. When the truck is in motion it helps to create a vacuum to pull the fumes and vapors from the crankcase. Rick D.
    2 points
  4. "The car’s suspension was smoother as the rear leaf springs earned their keep" Hope your mother-in-law doesn't read this
    2 points
  5. A few new people recently had me thinking to create a sticky post with the vendors we all know and love so it's easier to find for new members. Feel free to add as you see fit! Please add a SHORT blurb about what they do/have. Also check out any banner adds you see from website supporters! https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog <---many Power Wagon parts that fit our trucks, engine parts https://dcmclassics.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops (some NOS available) https://www.oldmoparts.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops https://www.midwestmilitary.com/ <---ONLY source of correct bed-strips for DODGE trucks (others are Ford or Chevy parts), other random similar parts http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/ <---DODGE bedside pockets, bed wood kits, bed parts, bed strip offerings (NON Dodge style) http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/index.aspx <---bed strip offerings (NON Dodge style), bed parts https://www.ebay.com/ <---roll the dice and see what might be out there https://p15-d24.com/classifieds/ <---our own location for buying/selling/searching for http://www.then-now-auto.com/ <---Fuel pump rebuild parts, etc https://www.steelerubber.com/ <---window seal parts https://brakeandequipment.com/ <---brake rebuild parts/shoe rebuild/lug studs https://www.cokertire.com/ <---vintage tires https://www.riwire.com/ <--- wire harnesses https://www.restorationspecialties.com/ <---random hardware and oddball stuff for old vehicles https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/ <--- NEW suspension springs for our trucks
    1 point
  6. Hey folks, as stated in the title I recently purchased a ‘53 Dodge B3B. I don’t really have a lot of experience in this but have been been some research and planning. Appears like the previous owner put a fair amount of work into it already. I’m sure I’ll have a bunch of questions and know there’s a lot of good info on this site. Thanks in advance for your patience.
    1 point
  7. Could be the block tapered, top of block to main bearing bore difference, Or crank stroke not identical on all throws. I'd bet the latter would be common on reground cranks from mass production shops from back in the day.
    1 point
  8. Two batteries in Series = Add up the voltages - Amperage doesn't multiply Two batteries in Parallel = Add up the Amperage - Voltage doesn't multiply
    1 point
  9. Maybe it's the realization that people can do what they want with their cars. Not everybody has the money/time to overhaul a flathead, if you have another good engine it might be the most economical thing to do.
    1 point
  10. What about a 225 slant 6. There were bulletproof engines and the torque flight transmission was bulletproof as well.
    1 point
  11. I must say I am surprised by the responses to this topic so far. In the past I noticed a lot of hostility on this forum towards those who would dare put a non-Mopar engine in their cars. Has the tide turned? ? I still have my 47 Plymouth with its 350 Chevy V8 and I still enjoy it as much as ever.
    1 point
  12. Since that threaded plug is 1 1/4 UNEF it might be cheaper to go jfish/Sam's route than trying to find and buy that die ($151 from MSC), lol. If I had a lathe and I knew how to cut threads on it then maybe I'd go that route, it does seem more elegant. Now if someone tooled up to run a batch of those blocks I'd buy one.
    1 point
  13. OK so everyone what to convert to 12v and Pentronics ignition. So I have a 1939 Desoto that stillhas the original dizzy - Autolite with the points and condenser and rotor. Last week we drove over 550 miles from Philadelphia area to Altoona PA for the National Desoto Car show and convention. I checked my standard old style ignition setup. I saw that my cap had some wear on the contacts, so put on a NOS dizzy cap with the brass contacts. Clean the points and set the gap with a tool called a SnapGap tool made it so simple to set the points. The contact does not have to be on the tip of the cam. Set the points at 20. installed the cap starte the engine let it come back to ide setting checked the dwell and I was at 35. the specs call for 35-38. so i left the setting just where is was set. We ran the Pa turnpike averaging 50-53 MPH all the way out and back. Averaged around 15-17 MPG with an old style ignition setup. So the old points and condensor setup has proven that they can be reliable and perform as expected. My tune up basically cost me approx $25 becsue I had the parts. Also cleaned the sparkplugs and when got home checked several and they had the gray color to them at the tip running Autolite A9 plugs. So why would I switch to electronic ign? i have owned the car for 35 years with the original ign components, go figure. With this tool I can adjust the points while the dizzy is inthe engine block and it took me approx 5-10 minutes max If you want more information contact me at Desoto1939@aol.com and i will explain how simple this took makes setting your point. Rich Hartung
    1 point
  14. Since I have a three speed stick with OD and they did not offer that on 1946 to 1948 Desoto....the bracket that bolts to the trans to hold the passenger side of the band had to be made. (The P & D drums are smaller and their brackets will not work.) The bracket is not perfect. So it makes it hard to get the band to adjust correct. Plus the thickness issues. I get some 80 grit sticky back sand paper. I stick it to the drum, over lapping it in the direction of travel. I have the band sort of loose. I jack up the car and run it with the tires spinning. I pull the hand brake lightly with the lock depressed and "sand" the band to get it to conform. I then vacuum up the dust and set the brake adjustment as per the instruction with a feeler gauge. I then wire lock the nut-spring on the passenger side, again per the manuals, and I am good to go. James
    1 point
  15. My 56 230 was rated at the factory at 125 fly wheel hp at 3600 rpm. It was bored .030 adding 5 cubic inches. The head was milled .040,the block was cut .010. It runs a 3mm thick solid copper head gasket. Dual carbs in a Fenton intake. Stock cam single exhaust 2 inch I'd from manifold to rear. Muffler is single in, single out dynamax turbo flow. Stock ignition at 6 degrees btc. Flywheel lightened and balanced. The machinist calculated the compression ratio at 8.6 to 1. The car was mounted on a chassis dynometer when it had about 3000 miles on it. In third gear at 3300 rpm, it put 127 hp to the rear wheels. I did not go to 3600 where the factory did peak hp as the speedo was at apx 64 mph at 3300. The printout shows 219 lbft of torque at 1820 rpm. This pull was done on a Mustang rolling dyno in the automotive facility on the campus of the college where I worked. The set up, pull and results were done by students under faculty, and Mustang dyno representative supervision. Accurate? Who knows, it is what it was. The run was done inside at around 75 degrees running on 87 octane 10% ethanol gasoline with air filter in place. I think member Robin Wheathersbe and maybe one other did dyno runs recently before they participated in the Penndine Sands timed speed runs in Wales. Both are running setups similar to mine. Be interested in seeing their numbers.
    1 point
  16. The translation is not working out. Bridge is the road structure crossing over a river. Engine is motor (what pulls the car). Either oil in the transmission, or oil in the rear end (round thing between the rear wheels) might be what you are asking?
    1 point
  17. I finally got my 1939 Plymouth out for a decently long ride. I had a long painful time getting new window glass for my rear vent windows. Lots of problems getting the tinted glass and rubber that wasn't a horrible fit. Didn't want to take it out without the glass in except for short local drives on sunny days. I started that job last January and just finished on Friday. Yesterday I drove it to a car club meeting. All back roads in Vermont. Very hilly and lots of curves. About 2 hours each way. The temperature was in the mid-90s. The temp gauge went up and down like it's supposed to, and never went over 190 degrees even on the long uphills in third gear. The car drove like a dream. I'm a happy boy. One of the club members drove his 1931 Chrysler dual cowl phaeton. A beautiful car. Pete
    1 point
  18. A very pleasant evening cruise in my Plymouth tonight. Its getting close to the northern hemisphere summer solstice. Nice long warm evenings. At 10:15 pm I’d say it was finally dark. The engine is getting smoother and better performing. The rings must be seating nicely. Its so quiet you can almost hear the spark jumping the gap inside the distributor cap. What a fine machine. Odometer 51.7 miles.
    1 point
  19. And beer cans falling out of the cabinet.. ?
    1 point
  20. Marg attracted some friendly strangers tonight. They confidently called my car a “Mayflower” a couple of times during our discussion. Due to the ship logo I assume. Was that a thing back in the day? Did a lot of folks refer to these as Mayflower models? One fellow assumed I was running upgraded 12V. That I’d dropped in a V8. He looked at the tires and said “Running glass plys hey.” “Nope. Bias tires. Original size too. As she would have been new. Original 6V. Works great. No complaints”, I replied. I opened the split hood…Silence. I waited for him to speak first. “Very nice” he replied. “Clean and tight.” He praised my efforts to care for this car. “Take care of it” he said. He progressed around all 4 corners. Inspecting. Commenting on the “good old Detroit iron”. We talked about the maintenance and repairs I had done to make my Plymouth reliable and road worthy. As we parted, he seemed satisfied. Content with story that unfolded. I think we got a passing grade. Here we are, trying to play nice with modern contraptions. 99,903 miles.
    1 point
  21. Tons of positive feedback from the general public while out for a cruise last evening in my Plymouth. Interest from all ages. Again, I am pleasantly reminded how much the 20-something crowd reacts to the car. I am trying to understand why the loudest, and largest number of drive-by approvals seem to come from that age group. My '38 Plymouth has a different vibe going on. The paint is peeling off the doors. The side runners, the original rubber coating is worn away in chunks. There's a hole in the front fender. General wear and tear for an old car. I don't wash it nearly enough. I've never waxed it for fear of more paint falling off. I am not picky about its presentation. Yet a lot of people seem to approve it as is. I am left thinking, its approachable? Maybe it looks easy to own? It's been nursed along for 84 years, never restored. I guess folks just appreciate that about it. I don't know. It'll never win a best of show. It'l never play in the big boys club of restored cars. Yet it seems to win the the hearts and adoration of many, not just the owner's. You've all been aware of the work I have done to this car to built a solid, reliable daily driver. Indeed it is very reliable now. Any time I have to leave the house for any excuse, I choose my '38 Plymouth. From Mar to Nov, it sees regular use. I maybe went farther than I needed to when I pulled the engine in 2020 and completely rebuilt it. Sure it had some issues to be addressed. An in-frame rebuild probably could have nursed it along for many more years. Yet there is something extremely satisfying about the whole experience. So very smug feeling when you drive down that long hill and there is no oil seen when you accelerate away at the bottom. When you push the throttle down at 10 mph and that new found torque pulls the car along briskly. Smooth, quiet, and confidently. I guessed there must have been a couple 100 things that needed to be addressed when I acquired this old Plymouth. It turned out to be more like 1,000. No, it's not done. It's a continuous work in progress. It would be an odd feeling if it were all done. What would I do in the garage every weekend? Lol. I guess I can state that I am extremely satisfied with the results so far with this car. From the front nose cone to the exhaust tip, anything I've touched I've enjoyed every minute. This morning as I open the garage door, I have decided to devote time to my Chrysler. A little neglected so far this spring. Today is her day.
    1 point
  22. This evening out for bit of a rip. Headed to get a thermostat housing gasket for my other ‘38. Heather was with me as she needed to run into Home Depot for a few things. I started up the fresh engine. Heather commented “So you don’t use your key to start it? You did something with your foot?” I laughed. I’ve owned the car for 4 years. She’s been with me countless times. She’d never noticed before. She said “Nobody could ever steal this car. They’d have no idea how to start it”. “Nor shift gears” I replied. Headed off to grab a coffee next. Park and enjoy the view.
    1 point
  23. I found an interesting photo of a pilothouse that a famous Australian artist (Albert Namatjira) owned. I saw a lot of Albert's paintings in Alice Springs (Central Australia) when I worked west of there, on oil & gas fields in the 1980's. It looks like he is all loaded up to go out to the MacDonnel Ranges, where he did a lot of his landscapes. Albert Namatjira (1902–1959), born Elea Namatjira, was a Western Aranda-speaking Aboriginal artist from the western MacDonnell Ranges in Australia. The most famous Aboriginal artist and one of Australia's most famous artists, he was one of the pioneers of contemporary Indigenous Australian art.
    1 point
  24. I don't have the time, patience, or knowledge to work my way around this forum. I'm not going to be around much longer. I have 2 boxes of a 20 year collection of miscellaneous P15 parts. Maybe $1,000 worth. When I die some clown will come in and throw them out. Money is not going to do me any good where I'm going. They are yours if you come by and take everything. I don't have my parts book so I don't know what the stuff is called. I live in the Antelope Valley (north of Los Angeles). 661 269 2797 I've already given away all my tools. I've got a wheel puller left (used once). It's a great opportunity.. i don't check in here - if you've any questions you can either call or e mail (donlj@ix.netcom.com) I don't have a cell so no texts
    0 points
  25. The new radiator and the starter must not be compatible........
    0 points
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