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I got one this morning about "held messages" and it is not from the site. If you look at the FROM email address it is "fraser.robinson@waitrose.com". That email address is not tied to a registered member of the site. Do not open these messages or click on any links in the message, they most likely are a phishing attempt.

Here's another option, White Post Restorations. They will sleeve your wheel or master cylinders then return them to you completely rebuilt. Not cheap by any means but I've never heard of their work being any- thing but first rate. Near you too. Near Front Royal, Va. They currently have my '38 Dodge master cylinder. I will tell you he's not a fan of dot5 brake fluid. Their phone # is 540 837 1140. They have a web site too.

Show your pics here! From what I heard, this year resitration was down a bit: 9916 registered vehicles. Down about 2k from pre covid shows. I quit taking general pics years ago at the show, but always take a pic of my truck and any special visitors! Was great to have you John!

While I have no experience with dot5 thought I would do a little reading on it out of curiosity. I do not think there is a right or wrong here. For @belvedereexample seems to work well for them. Also seems to be moisture condensation that causes a big issue. I think the climate you live in & how dry it is will play a big part .... such as a motorcycle. Sure we all have got caught in the rain from time to time .... typically a motorcycle is parked in a garage and driven on dry days .... Will probably never collect moisture. The big issue with seals is from properly flushing the system of dot 3/4 to switch to 5. Mixing the 2 the fluid will turn into a gel. Seems it is the seals & rubber pieces that are the most difficult to flush. The master cylinder & hard lines are quick & easy to flush. You need to keep flushing it to get all the droplets from the rubber pieces. Flushed properly it is not a problem for seals .... just seals make it harder to flush. Because dot5 does not absorb moisture, the water will collect in a lower portion of the system and will cause rust/corrosion in those spots. Because dot3/4 does absorb moisture .... the moisture mixed with fluid will not cause rust/corrosion. The soft pedal from dot 5 is from the brake fluid heating up after driving, getting everything up to operating temp the brake fluid gets hot. The pockets of water turn to steam causing the soft pedal. Brake fluid can not stop water from getting into the lines ... Dot5 simply will not mix with the water so your water puddles up on the low side. According to the author of this article on why they do not recommend dot5 with their brake systems. https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/brake-fluid/can-i-use-dot-5 A good test of the writers theory. .... We need to flush our brake fluid every few years just as good maintenance. Check out your brakes pay close attention to the firmness of the pedal ... best if they are properly adjusted first but still, Drive it and heat them up and pay attention to the firmness of the pedal with the brakes good and warmed up. Now flush some fresh fluid through them and refill with dot5, take it out and warm them up and check out the firmness .... Is it the same? Is it more firm? According to the author the water turns to steam as the fluid heats up .... So you need to drive it and heat the brakes up, around the block will not work for a accurate test. I have no idea how your results would be. If the Author is correct, you just flushed your water out and now your brakes should be firmer, til more condensation collects. Or if the brakes do not change .... Maybe his story carries no water? ??? The only good point for dot5 out of the article was .... dot5 does not eat paint. So if you have a nice paint job, that alone could be the clincher to use dot5. Yeahhh ... that leaves me out.

Great pics! I’m a Dodge guy but I love the DeSoto’s too.

I have a Walker 15021B carburetor rebuild kit and it comes with two needle and seat fittings. One is 1/8” npt and the other is inverted flare for a 1/2-20 thread, for a 5/16” hard line. A Carter or A/C fuel filter will screw on to the 1/8” fitting. I would not use your Zenith filter. I wouldn’t trust it to not leak. The bowl and clip just looks to iffy to me. The sediment bowl on the fuel pump, checked regularly would be a better option. A 1/8” npt pipe union and another 90 degree fitting would keep your fuel line away from the manifold and allow for easier bends on your hard line. I use 1/4” Teflon tape on all pipe fittings. Rick D.

Typically you use a different needle valve fitting that goes right into the filter.

Yes it would be the same , 39 Plymouth truck and 39 Dodge truck 1/2 ton . I have a Dodge truck Shop Manual T series 1939 SUPPLEMENT . They didn't print a new shop manual for 1939 , just the supplement . Only 74 pages . I got this one from one of the sellers that specializes in manuals , several years ago .

Good practice is to filter the gas before it goes into the pump. IN on the filter connects to the fuel line from the tank, OUT (1/8" NPT) goes to IN on the pump (1/8" NPT), that's where you need the 1/8" NPT nipple.

Just a few pictures from the great race.

My thoughts ... Looking at the gunk in the master cylinder, I would be concerned about the bore on the cylinder. Clean it up & just pay special attention to the cylinder for rust & pitting, How far will you have to Hone it to make it work properly? Not trying to scare you, just maybe a 50/50 chance it is good or bad ... throw the dice and take a look. I put my master cylinder into a bucket of Berrymans carburetor cleaner & let it soak for a day or 2. Then gave it a light hone and new rubber parts. I think you could probably use some Brake cleaner spray to look at the bore before you spend much time on it. New master cylinders are available, there is also a possibility of having your old one bored & sleeved with a new stainless steel sleeve to repair it ... so do not throw it away. The brake lines, I would say if you can buy a kit of pre-formed lines and they actually fit ... go for it. For my truck I bought the rubber lines from Rockauto was common and cheap. I bought straight steel lines from local parts store, I used my old lines for patterns & bent the new lines to match, cut to length & re did the ends. My front brakes are completely new Hydraulically from wheel cylinders, rubber lines, hard lines all the way to my rebuilt master cylinder. Is a bit of a pita bending the steel lines .... But very doable if you have the old ones complete for patterns. Now I need to do the rear brake lines and I can not buy anymore steel lines in town I have to order so I ordered nickel/copper ... nicop. It is so much easier to work with, will or should last longer then steel. It comes in a roll. Here is a quick & simple trick to straighten it out. Drill a hole the same size of the line width wise through a 2x4 then pull the line through. You will end up with a really straight line, you need 3' pull out 3' & cut it. Then lay it next to your pattern line and bend it by hand to match. Will be really easy to bend up a professional looking line by hand in just a few minutes. Now take note in my photo what not to do. This is 5/16" line & I drilled a 1/2" hole just because that was what was handy. You can see it is not terrible but is not straight on the right side, The tighter the hole the straighter the line coming out the other side. Starting out with a line that looks like a snake kinda looks a bit amateurish. Starting with a straight line then gently adding the curves needed makes it look much better imho. Brake lines tucked into the frame under the car, looks may not matter to some ... some it would. Imagine creating fuel lines for a duel carb setup, Highly noticeable. Start out with a nice straight piece, then use pipe to bend the line around for shape & form .... you could come up with a masterpiece that looks like a professional built it. If you make a boo boo, you can always run the line back through the 2x4 to straighten it back out and start over. You can not do that with steel. I understand today we are just talking about getting working brakes. As you get further into the project, there are different sizes of lines. The brake & fuel lines are probably the same size 5/16" Except for the line going across the rear axle I'm guessing is 3/16"? Do you have electric or vacuum wipers? There is another line. There is the vacuum advance line from the Distributor to the carb. You have the oil filter lines & oil pressure gauge line .... I'm only trying to say, I started with steel lines from the beginning, now midstream I'm switching to nicop. If I had do overs I would have started with nicop in the first place.

your 48 will not interchange with the 54 unless you also use the appropriate sender for the 54.....you are dealing with two operationally different systems here.... with that said, your car may have been altered in the past and in that case all bets are off as to what is or is not fitted. You 48 could well be as that of a 49 first generation as many of these are reported with the later style sender/gauge combo

some will add RTV when installing the caps...many will actually check to ensure that the spring clips are not sprung and thus apply adequate gripping....and regardless of any approach the chance of losing a cap is always there I suppose and why many will place their name and phone number inside the cap in hopes if found would get their cap returned to them.

The Plymouth Doctor https://www.c2cfabrication.com/

Here’s a tip. in your photo you can see an arrow on the anchor bolts. Before you take anything apart, mark the shoes and mark where the arrow is. Since it is so easy with phone cameras take a picture as well. After you change the cylinder (s) put everything back the way you found it. Shoes in the same place and arrows pointed exactly as they were. This is the only way you can get the adjustment right without the special tool to center the shoes. You might scan the shop manual before you start to visualize what I am talking about.

On that topic, Do you guys have a source for Starters for these cars? I was talking to and old guy on the east coast about a "Restored" starter. When I asked if the internals had been gone trough he stopped responding to my messages.

I was driving between 50-53 MPH on the average. I was fluctuating between 45-55 just to give the engine a change in speed and RPM's. We had anticipated to average around 50 mph, that is the sweet spot for my car my friend who also has a 39 Desoto just had new pistons put into his car and he was running around 55-60 and closer to 60. He was getting blue smoke out the tailpipe when letting off the accelerator and we think the oil might be from the valve guides. I average around 14-15 MPG. The old girl just turned the 100K mark as we left to attend the convention. She ran very well and i gave her a big kiss when we got home and thanked her for her service and making the entire round trip. Have to show some loe and affection to these old gals. They apprecite the love also gave my wife a big thanks and hug for going along with being the chase vehicle and putting up with my hobby. The wives are our backbone and also need to get recognized. Since he only had around 200 new miles of the pistons I suggested that he pull back on his speed because of the oil issue. He did not lose any oil pressure. I just thought that since he had new pistons and these were the Standard size piston that let the car breakin on a more steady speed instead of pushing the engine, but it was his car. When going down hill there was a great deal of blue smoke and you could really smell the oil buring when you were even 30 feet behind the car. i do know that he got home back to the Baltimore area without and other issue just the blue smoke. After getting the pictures sent to my email I will post some pictures of the tour of Flight 93 and the car Show. Rich Hartung

Dan, Did you try American Honeycomb Radiator in Bowdoin? He worked on the radiator from my 1939 Plymouth at a fair price. American Honeycomb Radiator 207-666-8111 https://www.oldusedradiators.com/ 885 Litchfield Road, Bowdoin, ME 04287 Pete

This Saturday (18th) is the Winona, MN Steamboat Days car show. Gosh I'll have to wash the Meadowbrook! Wait, it rained. I'm good ?

I think he's inventing catch phrases. He called the chrome doohickey on the rear quarter on a '53 Ford a "flying toaster" as if that's what everyone calls it. Maybe they do, I don't know. Whatever...I'll watch any video that pans slowly over 40s and 50s cars in a junkyard.

If a bypass oil filter "does nothing", then diesel engine manufacturers wouldn't still be using them. They do filter your oil, just not in the same way that a full flow filter would.