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The fuel pump is probably NPT threads. You need an elbow with male NPT threads and female threads and inverse flair for the brake line.

On my regular under-car inspection today I found a disaster in the making. My Battery cable from the negative post to the starter. A little wiggle and I saw sparks. My ‘38 Chrysler. Keep up on your cables folks. They make great fire starters.

I'm digging this car a lot. If I had space, I'd definitely pick up one of these clapped out 4 door sedans and have some fun with it. Keep us updated!

First thing to do is check over the other guys work, make sure it is safe. You have not looked at it yet ... I'm not doubting their work .... just suggesting to take a good look at it. I really like the flannel cloth idea. I have been Watching DD speed shop And the 55 chubby they took to the power tour this year. They used a red & white checkered vinyl .... looks like a table cloth at a picnic .... I love it because it was cheap and they did it themselves. I really like your idea with flannel better, is cloth & easier to work with. I remember back in 1987, it was kinda Kool to jack up my 1969 mustang fastback with air shocks & L60-15 tires. Just suggesting your Chrysler on the Chubby frame seems to have her rear end up in the air .... Not suggesting it is a bad thing, just something I might look at with options to lower it. I really have to add the 48-50 truck front end was the best ever made. You do you and have fun doing it.

The only thing that I'm going to be updating mechanically, is they never found a way to mount the front bumper, and it currently has a fuel cell in the trunk with no fuel gauge, I plan to put some type of aftermarket fuel tank back underneath where it belongs, it looks like an original 46-48 Mopar tank we'll still mount in the original location from the pictures I've seen of underneath the car it looks like there's plenty of room, it just needs body work, paint and the interior completely redone, I'm going to do the interior with the same basic idea of what I did in my 1948 Dodge, it's never going to be an all original Museum car, so I'm just going to have a little fun with the interior, but I think I'm going to use green and white flannel this time, because I plan on painting the car aqua, like my 39 Plymouth Business Coupe

Those gloves in the corner of the pic are creepy...you should shut them in the hood of the DeSoto, or have them gripping the grille bars!

I would take them in a heartbeat, but I live in Texas also. I was thinking the same thing - collect the parts so I could give them to people as they need them. People have given me parts and I would like to do the same. I would be interested in paying the shipping to get them here if that's possible.

This Saturday (18th) is the Winona, MN Steamboat Days car show. Gosh I'll have to wash the Meadowbrook! Wait, it rained. I'm good ?

I cannot tell you if it will fit.. The radiators in boxes are 15 feet up on Costco style racks. I was there a couple months ago buying parts...saw tons and tons of old stock parts for all makes of cars. E-mail him to be sure it's correct and get the information and pictures of the radiator.

Yes a friend was scrapping it!

Chrysler part numbers make sense when you realize that it is an engineering drawing number. Consider a radiator consisting of a top tank (one drawing number), a core (another drawing number), a bottom tank (another drawing number), and some miscellaneous side pieces and brackets (each with its own drawing number). All those are assembled into a radiator assembly with yet another numbered engineering drawing. Since the whole radiator was designed at one time the various pieces and final assembly have drawing numbers that are often close to one another. When released to production somebody decides what parts (drawing numbers) will be made available for service replacement. In our example it will be the final radiator assembly. But that top tank has the top tank drawing number pressed into it, not the radiator drawing/part number. So the part number in the parts book is different than you see pressed into the very visible top tank. Castings will have the raw casting drawing numbers, not the finished machined drawing numbers, etc.

There is a manufacturer in Australia. i've seen a video of the process but can't locate it right now. @andydodge ? FOUND IT:!! https://www.ftrs.com.au/vhrc/

I will only add that these swaps have been done for decades with custom cars. Not necessarily Desoto to Chrysler .... Real common custom car swap is a car front end mounted to a truck. Been done at least since the 50's. I'm with you all the way, if you can do it reasonably priced to make it work ... GO FOR IT! As you say it already has been swapped onto a Chubby truck frame .... Not a bad thing in my opinion. My only opinion is to 1, Enjoy the process .... if you are not having fun maybe try gardening. 2, Make it safe to drive. With the frame swap we are talking sbc motor, transmission auto / manual of your choice ... Disk brakes improved suspension. .... Just make sure everything is done correctly, safely. This actually could be a beater with a heater, you can jump in it and drive it anywhere ... May be the most fun & cheapest car you own to drive. I'm with you 100% just have fun & make it safe ..... Naturally pics & updates are mandatory .... we love pics

1. there is a sweet spot 2. it takes some wiggling 3. it takes some amount of oompf

Hello Don never talked with you before. I certainly appreciate what you are doing. I was really sad when my Uncle passed away and as you said, his kids came in and just gave everything away for scrap. I wish I were closer, I would save them just to give to others that can use them as the time comes up .... I'm in Texas and can not help. I sure hope someone saves them to keep them out of the scrap yard. Either way Don, I hope you stay comfortable ... we can only do so much, no sense in getting upset over things we can not control.

Been out in the shop...doing my grinding thing again...cobbled up some body mounts...had some 1/8" plate laying around... had to tie the door openings together... I bought some 1x1x1/8" steel angle when I first started this heap...cut cut cut...tack tack tack...repeat... I had sometime and I found more holes that needed some TLC.... One bite at a time... Next on the docket...need some couplings and some other pieces and parts to make this old heap turn.... time to pull out the wad again....and feed the beast... One bite at a time....

every fall i pour in an 11 oz of Prestone radiator anti-rusting agent. It is white in color and it keeps the antirust properties of the antifreeze anti-rusting agents up to protect the engine block and also lubricate the water pump. I remember as a kid my dad would do that every year. Also if you know your MoPar chemical products they sold a can of that at the dealerships and a lot of guys collect these older cans. But now it is in plastic bottles cost around $5 for the bottle, cheap insurance for your radiator. When the antifreeze turns brown in your car then they AF has lost the anti-rusting agents and has broken down and then a flush of the engine block is required. So every couple of years I change out the AF and install the old good ORIGINAL GREEN AF and not the Extended version of AF. I had spoken to a tech rep from Prestone and he informed me that we should only use the old standard GREN AF in our old cast iron blocks. Rich Hartung

I almost never use a timing light on older engines. Vacuum gauge for me. Static time as above, then set to highest steady vacuum. Test drive and adjust if pinging is noted in high load, low speed situations. may not be ‘right’ but has worked for me for years. Lots of years!

I find that 6 degrees BTDC and 36-38 degrees of dwell work great on my 52 Cranbrook.

James brings up a good point about anti-freeze. The main reason the "Green Police" don't want it on the ground or down the drains is that it is poison. Pets (and animals) are drawn to it as it is sweet to the taste. A pan sitting on the garage floor is a very real danger to pets. There are however safer alternatives. Anti-freeze for solar hot water systems that is labeled Non Toxic might work in engines. I've never tried it but I know with a little shopping you can find non toxic automotive anti-freeze. You will pay a high price for it however. An old buddy of mine told me how they used to keep Model T Fords from freezing up in the Northern Wisconsin Lumber Camps. They took thin lubricating oil and filled the radiator with that. In the spring after the last frost they replaced the hoses and the oil with water. We've all seen radiators with milk chocolate colored water circulating in them. I attended an Allen Test School and they were explaining how electrolysis occurred, motion, dissimilar metals and water. They claimed a radiator could generate a measurable electrical current and that current was eating away at the iron (or aluminum) of your engine. At the time I drove a well used 1958 F100 with a 223 I block 6. To test their lesson I clipped my volt meter ground clamp to where the radiator cap mounted and held the positive in the center of the water with the engine running. The old Ford put out 12 volts! Needless to say I quickly added radiator maintenance to my 'to do list' on the pickup!

Might be too late here, but I just found this https://ocpnw.com/1942-1948-desoto-nos-oem-radiator-part-no-4893/

After 5 months since the last drive of 2021, I got the Meadowbrook out today for the first outing of 2022. I changed oil, topped up the tires and fired it up. The Meadowbrook fired off quick and ran better than I remembered. I forgot how much of an improvement the new pistons and rings made. We took it on a 35 mile round trip parts run. We got a few things for the Corvair we picked up over winter. It's a bit dusty, but it sure is nice to see it in the sunshine again! 2022 will be a big year for the Meadowbrook. 1,539 more miles and it will roll over to 100k. This year will be its 25th year being back on the road after sitting in storage for an unknown number of years. Looking forward to another season of driving memories.

Digging into the manual it appears you should have this style, assuming original 1948 Plymouth engine Rope style is this one And the last version is this style

When honda came out with the second edition of the CRV they used a very similar type of driveshaft joints. But in this application the rear end was an independent system in which the differential carrier was bolted to the rear sub frame. The result of which was a drive shaft that never changed angle, nor slid along the travel provided by the splines. This meant the ball portion of their joints never moved along the length provided for in the trunion, the result was both joints wore in the same spots, which over 30k miles meant that they wore those two 0laces out of tolerance causing vibrations from one or both transferring through the carrier into the sub frame. Honda did not sell parts to repair them so a new drive shaft with both joints had to be purchased to correct the problem. If your car is always driven with the same load over smooth roads, this same condition can occur in the ball and trunion joints. If you have the B&T joints on both ends, some times swapping the drive shaft end for end will move the balls within the trunion enough to move them out of the worn spots in the trunion. You can test this situation by putting 300 or so pounds, a couple hefty friends, 4 or 5 bags of Sackett and a full gas tank in the car should move the suspension enough to move the balls to a different position within the trunion. A short drive should then indicate if the vibration changes frequency, or speed of onset. If it does, your trunions are probably out of spec when the drive line is in its "normal" home position. The Honda friveshaft was about 650.00 installed, so if you can get a modern one made up with Spicer style joints on both ends for 300 or so, seems like a good deal.

Andy is correct in pointing out who knows what a PO or their mechanic may have done. Since I got my 51 last September I have found innumerable hacks done to the Cambridge. Don't assume anything, lol.