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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/06/2022 in all areas

  1. Thought I would share a few photos of my recently restored 1951 half ton. The work took twenty some years to plan and two years to complete. While the job was in progress, I discovered this web site and asked a few questions on your forum and received plenty of feedback, which was very much appreciated. I have to thank the master mechanic (and friend) that did the work and tolerated my presence. I learned a lot in the process ! I've just received the safety check certification. The truck is now licensed for the road and will be used as a daily driver, so long as it doesn't rain, snow, blow debris, dark clouds, traffic . . . . . . ? Thanks again for your enthusiastic help on the forum fellows. Terry Original L shape, 218 cu. in. engine. Three speed (on the tree). Electrical converted to 12 volt negative ground, with 12 volt alternator. Added front wheel disc brakes. added seat belts.
    4 points
  2. So I got my steering back to normal. Ended up being a frozen kingpin. This morning I pulled the greaser off and cleaned the gunk out. After that I sprayed the top with wd40 let it sit a couple of hours and then it's just surprisingly freed up. Took it for a drive and it worked perfectly. Thanks for all of the tips and advice. Hopefully I'll be cruising this summer.
    2 points
  3. No, that is not normal, the fitting is leaking because the flare on the line isn't tight against the flare in the gauge. As others have stated, you need the little brass ferrule that fits between the line flare and the gauge flare. This allows both female flares to seal.
    2 points
  4. Don't post HERE Brent! Post here! 48D
    2 points
  5. #BER ELEVEN!!!!! NUMBER 11!!!!! Freakin' #11 IWOYTD!!! This year it will be on MAY 14th The Five Rules: 1. Work on your Truck. Not a Hybred, not a Moepee'd , not a Ferd or a Chevee......well, unless any of them are a truck, then I guess its Ok. 2. Report what you did to the Forum.....not the girl at the post office, she doesn't care, she's just trying to get the junk mail sent to you. 3. Post a picture of what you did. Its all good, sitting in it counts.....but at least hold a hammer or something. 4. Explain how you got the truck, what inspires you about it. 5. Try to share the days experience as soon as you can!!! Sharing is caring!!!.....Believe it or not, your story could inspire one of us to get back to it! Your story could help build another truck!!! Good luck!!!! PLAN FOR THE DAY!!! Bonus rule: 6. Show us a few pictures of what you plan to work on before the big day. 48D
    1 point
  6. go to your hardware store and ask for 1/8 tubing ferrule.....
    1 point
  7. Varnish, tar like stuff and kinda worn parts but, I know it is the top, cause I switched with the one from Jimbob and no noise.
    1 point
  8. To be honest I didn't PICK which hinge was going to be the problem hinge The first order of business was to remove the top of the pin which was no longer attached to the rest of the pin but was stuck in place due to the serrations (and rust!). That mission was accomplished today with the help of a 3/8" nut and my MiG welder. This picture shows the third attempt at welding a nut to the tip of the pin. I forgot to turn the heat up on the welder so the first two nuts just twisted right off. After cranking up the heat and welding another nut on I was able to twist it out of the hole. Next I tried drilling out the bottom part of the pin but due to the tight quarters and angle of the drill bit I didn't (so far anyway) succeed. There is enough metal removed that I might be able to use a carbide burr in a rotary tool to grind way enough of the pin. That's probably my primary task for this weekend. I've tried punching the pin out with no luck. If I can't get the pin ground down enough I'll try the penetrant and heat as you suggested. The last thing I want to do is mess the hinge part on the door so I'm trying to be slow and methodical in getting this done. I'm pretty sure just trying to beat it out isn't going to work. It took a fair amount of pressure using my hydraulic press to get the pin removed from the other hinge. Anyway, at least I made a little progress Brad
    1 point
  9. Biggest problem might be finding a decent hotel that will allow you on the premises....... ?
    1 point
  10. You're a week early! It's the 14th
    1 point
  11. I made you do it? Makes it sound like I stood over you with a whip until you got it done. ? Did you find anything interesting in there?
    1 point
  12. When I changed the the shocks I got a good look underneath. luckily the car is really good shape must have been garaged for most of its life, has some small rust on the roof but nothing major.
    1 point
  13. I bought a new kingpin set, pulled both sides, took them down to the machine shop and had them do the work. You need to fit the bushings to the pins once they are installed and the machine shop is better equipped to do that than I am.
    1 point
  14. Thanks harmony. I took your advice a pulled the driver's side tie rod off. My driver's side tire is very hard to move back and forth. The steering itself is fine. Now I'm going to grease it the best I can and see if it will free up. Any other advice on how to free it. I really do want to swap out the kingpin.
    1 point
  15. I checked in my box o parts and didn't turn it up, but did find this: Doesn't match any holes on my floor, but may be the cover for the master cylinder fill? Anyway, good to know that my suspicion was right about around the column. As far as the pedal seals- my one surviving one is totally trashed, I can't tell whether it was originally'billow up' or 'billow down', I am assuming down, but I want to do them right the first time, because they are not particularly interesting. Looking at the seals and the small removable plate above them, I assumed the outside rectangle of them sandwiched between it and the floor surrounding them. This would hold them in place and force the pedal arm to slide through the slot in the rubber, which is basically what Harmony describes (plus needing grease) Or do they just install on the outside or the toeboards, and only seal when pedals are not depressed? I get that both will work, which way is correct? I looked through my repair manual and they don't detail floor draft seals or the like.
    1 point
  16. I have driven the car a bunch in the last few days and the trans and OD are working fine. The sticking on 2nd gear happens sometimes and sometimes not. I do not think it is related to the oil as I am using 50W now versus 10W before. Heavy oil slows down the shafts sooner and usually improves the syncro action. It may be a linkage issue, but I suspect that it is a syncro that may have a burr that needs to wear in. It is not doing it on the other gears. The OD is shifting smoother then a modern automatic. Quite nice considering that the planet gear assembly is old and I could feel some wear in the non replaceable needle bearings. I am hoping that the new ring gear and sun gear will help lengthen the life of the old planet gear set. I am going to take the car to my place out of town later in the week. That is a 160 miles round trip at 65-70 MPH most of the way. We will see how she does. James
    1 point
  17. $4500 seems a little cheap to me for a thorough rebuild. When you add up all the parts and the labor. Not sure how a shop can do it for $4500 and make a profit. Yet there are many levels to rebuilding an engine. People don't do it all the same. Some replace many parts with new. Others choose to re-use more parts. I am not aware of a complete engine rebuild kit available. Parts usually end up coming from various manufacturers. Retailers will source them and sell them to you. Andy Bernbaum and Vintage Power Wagons offer all the various parts, but no rebuild kit that I am aware of. The 265 is a coveted engine by many here. It's a good one to drop in a smaller lighter car for an instant performance boost.
    1 point
  18. Well I don't say this very often, but you should do your Mustang swap.....and sell the 265 engine to me! I'd happily pay to get rebuilt. A Windsor was a pretty nice car for a small Chrysler. Looks like you have a pretty nice example and I am envious!
    1 point
  19. I'd get it up on a lift and look underneath to see how much rust there is and the condition of the frame and pan. On my 58 Dodge pans are about $100 a piece and I had to buy about 8 including rockers & trunk. That's the parts only. If the body is okay then maybe start on other stuff. Depends how much you want to pay. If you aren't mechanically inclined and don't have shop tools then pay the $4.5K for the complete overhaul (if you want it perfect). That's driving it in the mechanics shop, them pulling the motor, them getting the parts, overhauling it, putting it back in. Complete means new everything in the motor, turning the crank, milling the heads, etc.. If it's not knocking maybe you could get by with new rings and valve guides. Don't use detergent oil in it if you don't know what was used before. Stirs up all the crud. Gas tanks run about $450-500 now. Used to be cheaper. Shop around.
    1 point
  20. Hmm, I would tend to disagree a little bit here. An example, my 51 Cambridge has horrible bumpsteer. Part of that is the extremely short driver's side tie rod assembly and overly long passenger side assembly. Chryslers and Desotos of that era had equal length setups. Obviously they knew that the bumpsteer issue was there and addressed it for the high end cars, but let Plymouth swing in the breeze. Another example is the floaty McBoaty ride quality. A lot of that was due to how they located the upper shock mount. Earlier Mopars didn't do that and towards the end of this suspension design's lifespan they relocated the shock and upper mount to address it. So while the engineer's may have known things they didn't always address them. Maybe it was the bean counters or the perceived market for the vehicle, i.e. cheap Plymouth owners get basic engineering. This doesn't even touch on the changes in automotive engineering that those engineers back in the day had no clue about. Nor does it take into account the traffic environment of today where even the cheapest box on wheels sold today can out accelerate, out stop and out handle our stuff. Too bad driver quality hasn't improved to match. I could go on about that but we all have seen it so I won't, lol.
    1 point
  21. Sorry Sniper I seen the thread on the motive unit was 1-3/16 and you mentioned yours was 1-1/4 so I figured you would be making a cap adapter from a bolt or cap. Thats what I did for the truck. If you do go the pressure bleed route I recommend picking up a shut-off valve for inline too.
    1 point
  22. When my son was 7, I asked him to help me check the right turn signal on the truck. I said "Is it working?" He said "yes, no, yes, no, yes, no......." 48D
    1 point
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