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I found they are usually marked in one or both of these spots with this style number stamp. First pic is the top and second is looking from the bottom.

Went out today and cut some grass with the push mower. Was checking both my heads out (49 Plymouth and 53 Dodge). Both are warped, Plymouth head is almost .009 in the middle across a foot. Almost seems like the very ends are high, and I didn't have the straightedge on a bolt hole. Dodge is about .006 off. I rechecked the straightedge on my newer engine block, perfectly flat. The Dodge head looks rougher, had a lot of surface rust before. One thing, I checked the thickness of the water jacket holes. The Dodge head seems to have about an 1/8" more material. Both heads - holes for the thermostat are the same (opening and bolt holes). My old T housing has a recessed opening measuring 2 1/2 inches. (Edit: Rock Auto lists a Gates 33028 with 2.13" flange as correct thermostat. That's wrong. The old housing with the external bypass hose has a 2 1/2" flange. Gates 33038 is correct. ) Reckon I'll clean the Dodge head up, get it milled and use it.

Saw this one, this morning on a Facebook group. Looks pretty favourable to me. Asking $5500. A coupe.

When I bought the P15 they were asking 5 thousand for it. I offered 3 thousand and they took it. All the parts were there. I probably should have offered 2 thousand. The engine, transmission and suspension were good. Brakes, wiring, fuel and ignition systems all had to be replaced or rebuilt. There was more. Ended up spending about three thousand on parts. I did all the work. But I'm not complaining because I enjoy working on these old cars. It's a hobby. As stated above don't plan on making money off it. I take great pride knowing that I saved another old car and got it back on the road. The other day I took the P15 to the parts store. When I stopped at a red light the guy next to me looked over and said "It's not every day that something like that pulls up next to you" and then he started asking questions. Made my day and it happens all the time. The project I'm starting today will be to replace the rear main seal. Gona wear old clothes for that one. Take your time and enjoy the projects. If you get frustrated then walk away and work on it later. Remember that you don't have to drive it to work tomorrow. Lots of info and help here.

DeSoto did not offer fluid drive with 3 speed manual. Dodge did. Virtually all Chryslers and DeSotos used the semi auto 4 speed transmission in this era, even though the shop manual that also shows a 3 speed manual would make you think otherwise. I would not offer 6K for this as you don't know what's good or bad mechanically and the costs can sky rocket quickly. That's why he's selling it.

Feel and judgment go a long way. Even 1970s and 1980s castings have occasional core shift that limits further work on them. You can sometimes make wire "pincers' to feel/ measure port wall/cooling jacket thickness. I will also take paper board and make small port templates to try to make sure they are all similar in size and shape.

Just FYI - when I've tried using Evaporust on cast iron, including my engine block, it has left the metal black, and I had a very hard time getting it off, and in fact, haven't been able to get it all off. I've decided that for the most part, I'm not going to use it on cast iron. Hopefully your experience will be different, but I just thought I'd mention it.

I have different stones & carbide graters, the problem is that some places are deeper and form a cavern under the valve seat. I'd have to braze or weld and add material to build up under the seat edge. Also when I was looking at the water jacket surrounding the valve area, can tell it's not real thick. I don't think I have 1/4" . Got me too cautious to smooth any further.

i have the same unit. i had it rebuilt about 2 years ago but have not put it back in the car yet. i would not try to rebuild it myself. the master cylinder for a power brake car has a fitting on the top that allows any fluid that passes the diaphragm in the booster to return to the master. keep in mind that if the diaphragm fails all the brake fluid will get sucked into the engine via the vacuum hose on the booster. horrible smelling smoke will come out your exhaust and you will shortly lose all braking. the power brake master is hard to find. the only difference between it and the manual brake master is the fitting on top that takes a line that goes to the booster. if you want the name of a rebuilder for your booster i will get you mine. not many places do it. capt den

Ok, S15 is the engine code. Looks like 51-52 Desoto. The rest of the numbers make up that engine's unique serial number. In TX that is what the title would show as the VIN. IF that is the case where you are they had better match the title or you are in for the governmental paperwork boogie. Here is something to ponder. You do not get into these cars to "not lose money" You will lose money. Especially if there is major work that needs farmed out. Myself, I think $6k is high as it sits, especially without knowing if the engine/trans and the rest of the drive train are good or bad. Any of those are bad and you are looking at a couple K more in costs. If the car ran and you could take it at least around the block to see/hear any issues then maybe $6k is in the ball park.