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https://mymopar.com/chrysler-master-tech-service-conference-library https://mymopar.com/browse-mtsc-by-model-year-1950/ https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1950-volume-3-6-brake-shoe-adjustment-and-alignment/ This what I tried? to reference! ? I forgot somehow, hope this works this time! DJ

The information in this thread is scattered over multiple threads with unrelated titles. For archiving purposes the info is condensed in this thread so future owners can more easily find it. The rear engine mounts in my '48 P15 were totally shot so I ordered new ones from Andy Bernbaum. They arrived promptly and looked like the mounts I've seen advertised from other vendors. The lower mount was thicker than my old set so longer, 4-inch bolts were necessary to install the mounts. The engine could be jacked up sufficiently to insert the upper mount into the frame crossmember. I noticed the new mounts were quite hard....it wasn't possible to press a thumbnail into the material. I pulled the bolts up snug and everything looked as it should. As soon as the engine fired for the first test drive it was obvious a large amount of vibration was being transmitted into the car. Matter of fact, it was really unpleasant. After the first test drive I backed off the torque on the bolts and tested again. Significant vibration was still present, especially around 40mph in third gear. The engine smoothed out at higher speed. I have changed to nyloc nuts on the bolts so they can be torqued only enough to hold the mounts and lower washers in place. There is still more vibration that I like....but it seems obvious these mounts are made out of a material that is much firmer than needed. The reason for this thread is to caution owners that hard mounts are out there.....and you don't want them! Posts on the forum have indicated that softer mounts are available and if anyone knows a source for softer mounts it would be greatly appreciated if that info could be provided. This is another case of replacing worn-out parts but ending up with a situation that is not what we expected.....old cars can be a character-building process..... UPDATE; See post #54 for the remedy to the harsh mounts....the lower mounts were the problem.

A link would be nice.

then there must bean air leak. check gaskets and vaccum lines carefully.

So I’m wanting to keep my gauges and dash 100% factory looking in my 1940 1/2 ton. When I bought the truck the tube from the temp gauge was broken, looks like years ago. im wanting to use the factory temp and oil pressure gauge, but it looks like the gauge, tube and temp sensor that threads into the side of the head are a 1 piece system. Can anyone suggest a way that I can keep my factory gauges, but make the temp gauge function again?

I attached a string to mine and pulled it out leave the string in, do the repair, reattach, pull back (gently) ?

Yes that's why the face after. I will admit I've used it in my coupe very briefly just to stretch my ankle but you are right not safe because there is no shutoff.

That pipe plug hole above number 6 piston is probably plugged with carbon . Is your throttle linkage not backing off all the way ? Some throttle linkage hung up a little bit ? If you disconnect the throttle linkage to try again , be sure that you have your throttle return spring hooked up so that your engine doesn't run wide open .

I don't think the engine numbers should be a factor in you buying the car. Price, what needs to be done, what your end result expectations are, and your ability to work on it or funds for paying someone to work on it should be considered first. Engine numbers don't really matter. Good luck, looks like a nice car. If it's cheap enough, buy it and start making fun memories with your sons.

1951 Desoto, you mentioned. Looks to be a coupe that someone had been fixing up. The flathead 6 engine, appears era correct. Once you gather the engine SN we can comfirm. I believe these were 251 ci engines in ‘51. 3 7/16 bore x 4 ½” stroke. Decent torque. Solid, reliable engines. Based on the pic is looks to be a 25” block to me. The tag on the firewall could be deciphered to reveal some more trim details on the car. Original paint color etc. In terms of rarity or value, these old Mopar sedans were mass produced. They don’t generally attract a high resale dollar. So they are easy to get into. Parts are readily available. There is tons of support here. We all love our old Mopars dearly. They are great cars for the next generation to learn on. A 2-door is generally more appealing to the public and future buyers. Personally, I think the sedan is on equal footing. More doors = more people and fun. Is this Desoto a 3 speed manual with dry clutch? Or fluid drive? The upgraded disc brakes is a bonus. The distributor and rotor area looks old. The block paint new. You may want to confirm how the engine is being advertised. Ran when parked? Rattle can rebuild? Or full rebuild with new parts and machining? Big difference. If you have any questions before you buy, feel free to ask. Keith

My throttle cable was broken so I have a heater switch as one of my 5. I suspect back then my heater switch would have been clamped on like that throttle cable

and this is not to laugh....I am a member of Hoarder Anon. well, at least I should be. Upstairs of the shop putting a bit of arrangement to the chaos and came across a small bag of lug nut cover caps I held in reserve should I ever lose on the Porsche. Flash forward, sold the car long ago, found it after about 28 years gone...bought it back...one of the lug nut caps is missing....so it pays to hold onto stuff.......this phenom is the hoarder's creedo...I am not or ever been in denial or defense...don't have time for non-believers...!!! Little ramble on a coffee break as I cannot stay focused long on cleaning before taking a break.

Well, I have determined that I absolutely am not a hoarder, I got a brochure in the mail concerning the cause and effect of hoarding and I was able to toss this in the trash without a second thought whatsoever....

Here is a pic too.

That is a strange layout. Everyone of these I've messed with has 5 controls in that little recessed area. Key in the center and then two on each side. That picture has a blank and then an add on for the throttle cable.

I've been a member for years. It's mainly for vintage semi's and 1.5 ton on up. BUT working trucks of any wieght can be allowed if authentic. I met Jim Shepard at a ATHS show back in 2006 at the Shenandoah Valley,Ca meet. It was the main inspiration for the Clement Tailgate BBQ. 48D

Isn't it fun working on a engine that has sat for years?... Been through and dealt with exactly the same problems. Yeah...just plumb the fuel system up like you say. Get it running. Then later re-do it the correct factory way. You want steps forward not backwards!?

Anyone know anything about this attached coil?? My shaft should be done tomorrow and I found new rotor, points and cap on epay. Oreered and should be here next week. on my way ?

Shaft will cost me $0.00 to make/repair. Too many stories of Petronix failures, including friends and personal experience. Goes with my other cool old stuff. And I like the abuse of points and multi carbs.

Lol, You know me PA, i’m Not the brightest knife in the light socket ?

sorry for showing this photo again I like my trailer. (20’ , 14k flatbed) made a handful of trips to CA to the BBQ a couple trips to WA to p/u a couple 1.5 toners (and visit Rob ?) and a trip to Minnesota for BTT50’s every trip I take about 30min or so to look it over and check the welds, brakes, lights etc. safety first, trailer users! And please, make sure your tow vehicle is equipped to handle the load. keep on truckin ?