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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/06/2022 in all areas

  1. A bit more progress. Still been slow going but feel like am on the home stretch now. Seatbelts added. Am limited with room so no option with retractables. In NZ to be legal we have to pass compliance certification for modified vehicles. Adding seatbelts is one of these modifications. So it can't be a simple addition of old belts from the scrapyard. Therefore what you see is new belts and approved mountings that meet the cert requirements. Bracing plates in the B pillar, the same added strengthening for the rear mounting points above the rear quarter windows, altering the seat base to allow the front seat clasps to fit in the optimum position to the floor and lastly adding fixing plates for the four floor mounts. A relatively simple safety measure being a bit of an engineering project to get a pass mark... Hood side panel louvres finished and installed. Panels ready for fitting after a few tune ups in engine bay. Battery box cover painted and installed...battery getting a trickle charge in pic. Have wired in this facility to happen when parked up for a while in my garage. Waiting on a grille guard to come back from plater which should be this week. Fit that, then wire up some front indicators which I have chosen to fit in some fog lights. Then back to upholsterer to refit the headliner that was detached to rebuild the dodgey vacuum wipers and seatbelts, fit carpet and trunk lining etc. Then I will be able to take up Keith on his invitation to join his Great 38 Thread of 2022......looking forward to that!!!
    2 points
  2. I learned my locksmithing skills as a dealer mechanic for SAAB. The model 99 & 900 had the ignition key between the seats and dirt used to get in the cylinder. Another factor was an anti-pick leaf in the ignition lock which meant the key was necked down next to the grip. You had to put the car in reverse to get the key out as well. So…valet parking attendants broke a lot of keys off. Mechanics who didn’t care about quality of workmanship, would simply put another cylinder in and call it done. Now the car had two keys. My M.O. was to remove the shifter and take the lock cylinder out on the bench. With the broken off key still in it, it wasn’t that hard. Once the cylinder was out you could poke the stub of the key out with a thin wire. The key code was on the side of the cylinder and the parts dept had the key cutter and code book. I found out only the ignition lock had the anti-pick leaf. It wasn’t rocket science to figure out that if you opened the lock you could remove that leaf and cut a new key that wasn’t necked down by not cutting the last cut. After that the owner never had another key problem again and they could still use an original necked down key. I’d ask the owner if they wanted the reverse locking device removed at the same time. Double sided keys use leaf type tumblers while single sided keys use pin type tumblers. If a locksmith says they don’t have the pins, that means they don’t want to take the time to do the job. There are two pins for each depression in the key. There are 5 depressions, so there are 10 pins 5 of which are exactly the same length. The combination is the 5 pins that are different. The DPCD locks have 5 different pin lengths. In my case I needed to make a key for the doors and the trunk. I could not re-key the ignition because the side grooves were different on a Pentastar key. So I had no need of alternate pins. However, if I did, I would measure the diameter of the pins and find some brass rod that diameter and cut it to length as needed. I think at least one existing pin would work and if you had any more that were too long you could file them down. Two or more working pins equal a working lock. I have no expectation that anyone but me would find making a key or re-keying a car lock fun and entertaining. However if you have a mind to do so, it can be done. Most folks probably should just find a locksmith willing to do the job. Locksmiths from my experience work pretty cheap and can use the business. Like shoemakers and mechanical speedometer guys, they are a dying breed.
    2 points
  3. A good ABC fire extinguisher is a must to have in your car. When you go to some car show they require an extingusher to be placed by one of the front tires. You do not have to mount the estingusher any specific place inthe car but should be easy to get to incase you need one. Rich Hartung
    2 points
  4. Hi All from New Zealand. First post but a several times browser. Thought I should make myself known. I am a 60+ year old dairy farmer from nz. I have been the owner of a 1938 Dodge D9 sedan since buying it off my grandfather Alick in 1981. He had bought it new in 1938 and decided to stop driving and tender the vehicle so he wouldn't be tempted to change his mind. It was drivable, which I enjoyed for a couple of years and then started a what has come to be 35 year project of putting it back to a pretty new condition. It sat around in bits for many years as marriage, family, cows, farming and numerous interrelated projects all came before my old car disease. A restart to the project began in earnest in 2006 when I pulled out the detached and disassembled body from my workshop and took it to a friend who had a small local garage and panel shop. We agreed that his old timer panel man would start and continue the panel repairs when he had quiet periods and I had a few dollars spare. Fast forward nearly 15 years and here we are. At times it sat with no progress as his business ebbed and flowed and the same with my and my wife's farming business. It has ended up a bigger project than I ever imagined but I have enjoyed the ride. Heaps of time sourcing parts here and overseas and meeting lots of old car folks in the process. It will be a complete rebuild but not concours at all. I have tried to keep it period correct as much as possible but haven't gone to the extent of original bolts,nuts etc. Also the export D9 didn't have two taillights, a radio, a clock or two wipers. It was a pretty basic car. I have found these items and restored them all to give it a little more detail. Started the rebuilt motor for the first time since disassembly many years ago last September. Great moment!!! Hope to be finished in a month or two......thought that a few times over the years though. Lockdown has slowed things too. Anyway, just thought I should make myself known. Hope you are all doing ok in this current situation. Best wishes to the old car folks out there.
    1 point
  5. Hi all, This will be my first year with an old car, something I see people often have in theirs is a fire extinguisher. Is that something experienced owner/drivers recommend? If so, is there a model out there that hits a "sweet spot" for mounting in an old car. I bought this car to drive and enjoy. In a few weeks it comes out of winter storage (this is the first week around here that the temperature has stayed above freezing and we have hope of seeing the last of the stubborn patches of ice on the front lawn and swimming pool cover), and I'm looking to buy the things I will want in the car for when it's safetied and on the road sometime in May. Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer. Here are some pics:
    1 point
  6. Finally victory! I ordered two kinds of easy outs from Amazon. The ones with the threads didn't work because it didn't have the right size. but the ones with the tapered edges worked great. I think I can still use the plunger even though I put a small hole in the side when I tried to drill it at an angle, which I smoothed up with sandpaper.
    1 point
  7. As was mentioned prior, it's a tradeoff happiness vs. money. I was in a similar situation about 3 years ago. I had a very well paying high level corporate job, I woke up miserable and stressed to the max every morning. I never had any money worries though. I'm not an extravagant person but even if I was I could afford pretty much whatever I wanted without any worry. Being that I was within 6 or 7 years from retirement, I decided that life was way too short to be miserable everyday, so I left my job to start my own business. Going back to my roots and doing what I love. My goal was to make enough money to pay the bills, keep things low key, and most important to control my own time. Of course there is a tradeoff. Do I worry about paying the bills when I never had to before? Yup. Am I happier? A lot! I find the stress worrying about getting business and paying the bills to be a lot less than hating your job and not controlling your life. I find the money thing always seems to work out one way or another. I will admit, I try to live more frugally than I used too but in general that doesn't make much difference in my happiness. The advice to negotiate your pay up is good. There is currently a shortage of workers so I think that's a real possibility. One thing though, if you decide to leave your current job, be committed to leaving. Don't be enticed to stay with a promise of more pay. More money is not going to make the work any more enjoyable and eventually they will get the difference back out of you, Lastly, if you do take a lower paying job, make sure you are really going to be happier doing it. Also think about if there is any side gig you might also enjoy doing that will help make up the difference in pay.
    1 point
  8. Yes, that's it. I have the second one from the left.
    1 point
  9. it is real easy to also click on your favorite browser, type in 1940 Plymouth radio hit enter, then select images.....host of returns
    1 point
  10. Agree with the ABC rating. A 5 is about the smallest I'd consider and a 10 is much better IMO. They work great on flammable liquids, the most likely type on cars. They do work on electric, but if the power source is not removed, it may re-ignite from the current flow. The residue is messy and really hard to remove from all the nooks and crannies. Not as hard as ashes though?. I had a 2000 Ford Expedition self combust on the street in front of our store. The unfused wire to the cruise control right under the plastic master cylinder reservoir problem they had back then. So both a class B and C fire, burning wire and brake fluid along with the plastic. My 10ABC put it out and was big enough to keep it out. Still totaled by the insurance though. I agree with locating it inside the passenger compartment. The thing about fire suppression is speed, small fires are easier to deal with. Delay in opening hoods or trunks, even seconds, can allow the fire to become too large to kill. Way back when I had some fire control training on flammable liquid spills (airline/aircraft related). The only type used in that environment is dry chemical. The actual airport fire crew had foam of course, but that isn't available outdoors in the first few minutes.
    1 point
  11. I agree with Sniper, counter a bit if you can....if they refuse, at least they are not in a position to fire you either. Layout and be ready to present to the boss what benefit it would be for you to be in their employment. Best wishes for improving your work environment.
    1 point
  12. As mentioned, an "ABC" is the way to go, but that's not a brand or model. The letters ABC are for what it will extinguish. ABC is about the best for old cars since it'll put out everything in our old cars that will burn. Newer cars, not so much. If you're going to have a fire extinguisher, I'd recommend putting it the cabin. The most important fire to put out is whatever is blocking your escape from the car. That said, I have yet to see an old car self-immolate, either parked, or running down the road. I hear a lot about old cars being fire traps for various reasons (old wiring, high amp 6v systems, etc.), but I personally have never seen it. There are outside factors that can start a fire, but as I wrote, the important thing is still to get out of the car first.
    1 point
  13. Nothing worse than waking up in the morning and dreading going to work. Followed closely by waking up in the morning wondering how you are going to pay the bills. Go back to the offers and counter offer on the pay. If you can come to terms with them move on.
    1 point
  14. THANKS! Don't know why I didn't think of that. There is a simple formula that is represented as a rough conversion. AH X 7.5. So that 45 AH is only a little over 330CCA. That matches up with some battery history that I was reading which stated that most 50s and 60s 12v GM cars had a battery with 350CCA. I can get that with a premium riding mower battery! I had actually considered paralleling a couple of of that size (gel cell) if I can't fit one big one where I want it.
    1 point
  15. 7/16" X 14 tpi flathead head bolts are what I have used at times to pull those plunger valves out.
    1 point
  16. I believe the great Don C pulled his using a tap that he threaded into the plunger and then pulled both out.
    1 point
  17. There was some fancy new type extinguisher, can't remember the name, that wasn't pressurized and never went bad. I looked into , expensive, limited duration and once activated it goes till it's done. No control. Pluses and minuses need to be added up to see if it will work for you. Ah here it is. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/efe-el40050
    1 point
  18. Some folks have screwed long sheet rock screw into the hole, then used body work slide hammer to extract the plunger.
    1 point
  19. When I disassemble a new master or wheel cylinder I wipe down all components, inspect them and coat the bores, seals and pistons with the Sil-Glyde before assembling each assembly. The intent is that the silicone grease be a barrier between the parts and the oil/water from direct contact and forming rust. Metal is porous so even small amounts of the silicone grease filling those pores should in theory slow the process of rust starting there.
    1 point
  20. Starting work to become the new flower farm truck
    1 point
  21. The diesel trucks I drove in the 70's came with explicit instructions from the bosses I drove for that said "never lug the engine, it will score the cylinders and is hard on the bottom end" "you'll ruin the engine you dumb kid" The operating RPM on a cummings was 1800-2300 then. Todays redesigned diesels are 1000 0r 1100 on the bottom of the range to 1450RPM on the high side they want you to upshift then for better fuel economy. We are upshifting to achieve lower RPM now at a point where we would have ruined engines back then. The old Volkswagen engines I have were very explicit as to the harmful effects of lugging the engine. Interesting how they managed over the years to redesign the harmful effects of lugging out of the engines to improve miles per gallon. Good Topic Keith!
    1 point
  22. I was a quasi-typical teenager, in DoD's defense, he may have explained it to some degree, but I was more interested in the driving aspect and didn't pay enough attention to remember that he told me anything.
    1 point
  23. I spied me some B1 door seal this weekend on the door itself and an example of the holes the doors have to except the product If steel comes through on the B3/4 seal, I wonder if they would pop the B1/2 seal as well….. definitely two different products
    1 point
  24. Oh, we didn’t miss it brother LoL here are a few photos from the day a blast seeing everyone again! Mark parked Jim next to me this year as we were leaving I said “ thanks for parking next to me Jim” Jim looked at me and said “sure, I thought I was put in the “still in progress row””? LOL, GAME ON mr. Shepherd! (Game on) thanks again Tim and Steph!
    1 point
  25. I went to their website but I didn't see any pricing. Do you know what they would charge per wheel cylinder?
    1 point
  26. Yes. I have found this all really interesting too. Obviously the starter motor and every other component on the engine is in the same place as the left hand drive vehicles and this meant the designers had to devise a different system to start the car. Your left hand drive vehicle has the mechanical foot operated rod system that engages the starter motor but because the driver is on the other side of the engine in my right hand drive version there is no simple way to have a foot operated starter- hence the push button starter that uses the electrical system to engage the solenoid. The clutch pedal mechanism is also fascinating. My right hand drive has the same foot position for the clutch, brake and accelerator pedals as yours but it means the clutch pedal is closer to the bell housing than yours. Some of the small mechanical parts fit both left and right hand drive versions, some are a mirror image and some are completely different. The parts book documents this. Another reason why I have found it really interesting how those designers made it all work in all of the different markets that they traded in. Again, that's probably why I have tried to find or rebuild parts as the designers built them way back then.
    1 point
  27. A few more pics. First one shows me picking the car up from Grandad Alick in 1981. He was 84 and I was 22. I look way more like him now. The others show 1980s to nearly now. Have lots of pics. If anyone wants specific details I could see if I have relevant photos etc.
    1 point
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